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Posts posted by Redcoat2966

  1. 1 hour ago, echen said:

    Thanks @Redcoat2966 A very interesting film. I think it shows a little why Tigers were so expensive to build in the first place!


    41 minutes ago, THEscaleSHOW said:

    It makes you wonder who was or is crazier - Henschel's designers or the guys from the restoration team 🤪

    Great video-thanks for that 👍


    Yeah, my thoughts exactly. From what I've read it took 250,000 man hours per vehicle and 300,000 Reichmarks in cost. I have to take my hat off to that young chap, very talented in metal work indeed - even down to making the wing nuts from scratch. I wonder how long before they embark on the full interior and up and running.

  2. Hello all.....had a chance to do some catch up on the forum. I wanted to drop this in the thread. Not having sen all of this thread, it being a long one; but I came across this on Youtube. Thought it was a good one as you get to see a lot of details on the Tiger one in restoration, especially some components and how they went together. Impressive work they have completed to date.



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  3. That's a nice Sturmtiger. I don't think enough are painted in plain Dunkelgelb, as this is. Really nice variations to the colour overall.......it's a colour scheme I intend to do more of in the future, as I've fallen into the trap on some projects to do a camp scheme........really nice job...:yes:

    • Thanks 1
  4. 19 hours ago, robw_uk said:

    Yep it is the Takom version.. biggest differences are no rear shovel and just a round cover over the winch without the large wooden box (apart from being a Panther D chassis not an A)

     Hi Rob, yes I know the one. I put one in the sale section on here a few months ago....but no takers. I sold it on Ebay in the end. Thought as I already had the spaded version it could go. You should enjoy the build as it virtually the same internally.


    Good luck with it.....:yes:

    • Like 1
  5. 2 hours ago, robw_uk said:

    stunning work... only just stumbled across this as I was looking for build reviews before I plunged in for the ausf D version.... (which I got at a very good price). I know it is not exactly the same kit but gives me an idea on what can be achieved.... 


    any thoughts on whether the Ausf D would have zim?

    Hi Rob, how are you and thanks for the kind comments. I take it you mean the Umbau version D, is it by Takom?.......if yes, to my knowledge it was released after the order for Zim to stop being applied. I might be corrected, but it was without.


    Thanks again mate....enjoy the build. I enjoyed this one a lot as a full interior as you can expose more than a standard Panther interior kit.

    • Like 1
  6. Seems like you're having some little issues, but it's look really good mate. Defiantly a kit I'll look for in future, but as you say maybe check out the Miniart one. I'd lie to know your overall opinion at the end. Painting it looks to be a mamouth task as it does have quite a lot of detail. I have a Jagdpanther on the cards next, with the same issues.



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  7. Really like how this is turning out Rob, nice job. I think the Wespe itself is spot on. I know there are some out there that lean towards very light weathering, wear and tear. If you study images, especially the Eastern Front, the AFV's and soft skins were well dogged. I think you've achieved that look. Nice all over.



  8. On 9/1/2021 at 12:02 PM, robw_uk said:

    I officially hate bronze paint.... sitcky, doesn't cover well... hate it I tell you....


    need to touch up & weather this - all major parts just placed for fit testing....





     Hi Rob, my best advice on the booze/brass is try MrColor Burnishable metallic's. I've found it to be the best and polish's up really well with something like a cotton bud. No need for a thick coating which can produce problems with fit of parts etc.

  9. I've heard  that HobbyBoss and IBG have some to a lot of issues in their build fit and detail. Looks like you did a good job though on the artillery bringing it up to scratch. Nice work......:yes:

    • Like 1
  10. Must have missed this one, nice progress so far.....an interesting build to follow indeed. I've always loved this Citroen and would love to have real one......I nicknamed it the "Gestapo Citroen". There's an Historian on TV, James Holland; that has one and he drives in some of his documentaries when he visits veterans to interview them.


    Nice work....:yes:

    • Thanks 1
  11. 13 hours ago, M3talpig said:

    Thanks bud ...i cant stress this enough though .... i am not a figure painter, there will be figure painters lookin at this tutorial in complete horror im sure , its just how i do it and if it helps then that's great, when you say you had problems with the oil not sticking there could be two reasons for that....the primer was not matt enough....or unlike acrylics which you can work fairly fast with oils need time, that's why there is a gap between the tutorials because once i laid down the first colour coat i need to leave it to set for two or three days.


    I was starting to wonder where you had gone Simon ...nice to have you back buddy :thumbsup:


    Thanks Steve, not far away. My model bench is down at present working on some DIY. Once I'm back up I'll kick off the jagdpanther G2  full interior. I'm spending my time at present getting all the upgrades - brass shells, anti aircraft armour etc. I'm also picking up all the upgrades for every kit I have in the stash as it looks like there's going to be supply problems all round for some time. I was told yesterday that Friul hasn't made any now stock since early COVID......plus with China in lockdown, all I see is out of stock notices for most UK sellers on many things.


    I switched back to Ali Express to pick up some R-Model tracks as nothing was available in the UK for an Sd.Kfz.8 Schwerer Zugkraftwagen 12t that I picked up cheap off Ebay that had no tracks.


    Anyway, looking forward to progress on the new Tiger.


    all the best..:yes:

    • Like 1
  12. On 5/3/2022 at 1:55 PM, M3talpig said:

    Bare with me here as this is the first tutorial I have done :blink:


    And the start,,,,,

    The figure we will use



    Some of the tools and putty we will use for prep



    First we need a solid base for working so we need to pin the figure.

    The wire is 1.2mm copper robust enough to not bend at the slightest touch and small enough to go through the foot.

    Drill the hole bigger than the wire so when you use cyano there is enough room for it to flow around the pin and create a solid connection.



    Once dry and solid mount the figure in a pin vice or if you prefer a cork...

    I prefer a pin vice as just a small twist of the fingers you can turn the figure 360 degrees



    Next time to inspect the figure for flaws and do the filling

    This figure was fairly simple being cast as a single piece minus lower arms.

    To make filling easier and to make the transition of the filler to resin smoother and less visible I cut wider grooves around the join lines in the arms,



    Using milliput white I then filled the gaps and used a damp brush (water) to smooth the filler over be sure not to recess the filler

    you want the filler to remain just slightly proud of the surface for the sanding later



    Next I used a fine brush to apply a second fill of Mr surfacer 500, this will take care of any very fine holes or brush marks





    Once all that is dry carful sanding with 2000 grade wet and dry paper to get a very smooth transition..

    remember you cant hide your bad sanding in the uniform, bare flesh requires some patience...

    if needed after sanding fill again to get it as smooth as possible.

    At this stage I had also cleaned and sanded any mould seams and any casting imperfections



    Next after your happy with the clean up time to undercoat.

    This will show up any area you missed during the cleaning faze.

    First wash the figure in warm soapy water and rinse then set aside to dry.

    The Acrylic paint I use for this step, a few drops of black primer mixed with roughly the same amount of thinner and a few drops of lucky matt varnish.

    A matt finish is important as the later oil stages will rely on this finish to work correctly.

    Apply the black layer in very thin coats and avoid build up in the details (especially around the face)  





    Next after an hour or so for the first black coat to dry it's time to do the highlight.

    Again I used the same mix as before but with white as the main shade.

    At this point you need to decide where your light source is coming from.

    To keep things simple i went for a 12oclock high light source.

    So you will need to fire your paint from a 12 oclock position so the white only hits the areas the light source would (in this case from the head down)

    Below is what you should have at the end.

    Now leave the figure for a day or two to harden off thoroughly






    Now for the paint thinner and tools you will use for the next stage.

    The below is W&N oils Abteilung 502 matt effect thinner (enamel) a pallet various sable brushes and some pippets for the thinner.

    With the oils you see here you can mix just about any colour you want from olive drabs to panzer greys and everything in between.



    The brushes are important Kolinsky sable are best and for me price versus quality the Amy Painter range are fantastic

    There not ridiculous in price and are very nicely sculpted tips which make for a very pleasant experience when working with them.

    The "Regiment" brush is used for general application over a large area 

    The "Detail" is used for application of lining and shadow detail

    The last two are for the face, The "Psycho" is also very good for tiny adjustments to uniform, flesh and eyes

    Clean them regularly and keep the tips nice and sharp by pinching them between your moistened lips (oooeeer missus)



    So now we are going to apply the first layer of oil to the flesh, i do not drain my colours on card first to get rid of the linseed oil.

    You may want too...

    i have found that working with such tiny amounts it makes very little difference especially since you will be mixing them with enamel thinner which more or less neutralizes the oil anyway.

    I used for the base flesh a mix of Burnt sienna and zinc white then thin to a slightly transparent mix

    Remember that a little goes a very long way with oils





    Once your paint is mixed and the consistency is light and transparent it's time to apply to the figure.

    This is were a video would help explain things but i dont have the equipment for this.

    Apply to the figure using the Regiment brush and apply so you can see the base underneath, if you cant see the base apply a little more thinner to you brush (damp no more) you don't want the oil turning into a wash....keep working the paint so that there are no puddles or sections of detail that are flooded....

    The brush should barely be touching the work and should be moved in small motions till the paint is even and smooth...

    you will know when your getting there as the paint will take a matt finish as you work.



    Below is what you want to have after the first application....remember take your time oil is very forgiving and you have lots of time to work.


    This concludes this part of the tutorial ..i will do the second part as soon as i have gone deeper with the painting and got more to share with you.

    Hope you like so far if there is anything i missed let me know. 



    Nice work all-round there Steve, love all the weld detailing and changes to make it more accurate. I'll try and catch up a bit on the thread and keep up with this new Tiger build;

    now I have a little more time......:yes:

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