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markjames68

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Everything posted by markjames68

  1. Its definately because of the internet and everyone wanting a bargain, and im all for people doing what they want to do to make a living , certain things tho, as history shows ( miners, - gone, no requirement for coal, aircraft industry, car industry) become untenable or too costly to be worthwile, as a member of the public , generally, there is no minimum order, tho it would add to the cost of a tin of paint if you ordered them one at a time. I enjoy a mooch round my LMS on occasion ( local 25 miles away) but do i value it or miss it enough to keep him in business at my expense? I think not, partly because if i shop on the internet i have a choice of absolutely any kit or manufacturer, if i go to a modelshop, i only have a choice of what they deem profitable, or worthy of stocking, a choice which often doesnt coincide with mine. It is, i guess, all a bit of a moot point tho as all of us in this hobby are keeping someone in business at our expense for our enjoyment( airfix, Trumpeter, Hasegawa etc) i just dont like the idea of handing out hard earned to two or three middlemen( importer, trade supplier, retailer) , if i can minimise it to a max of one and preferably none
  2. when you order from abroad, as perfectly legal to do so, one must expect to pay whatever duty is levied obviously, wether the model slips through customs is not 'our' problem but can be too our advantage duty wise. what i was getting at is tax evasion is illegal, tax avoidance is not, (just sensible, tho care has to be taken so as not to cross the line) and buying model from China is often cheaper and as quick as ordering them here i suppose it is at the cost of LMS but look at it this way, going off what some of us spend/have spent on whats in the stash, i reckon im better off by 700-1000 quid by ordering from abroad and as harsh as it sounds, id rather my money was in my pocket and not spread around retailers and importers, sounds harsh really i guess but hard to deny mark
  3. Buying directly from abroad(China America) to circumvent paying retailers or importers is perfectly legal and not tax evasive ( tax evasion being illegal, tax avoidance being perfectly acceptable) its not just the tax you are avoiding, its the importers distributors and retailers ha'porth you are also avoiding. Its a sad fact but in this modern day and age of cutbacks and belt tightning it is a sensible and viable option I can buy a Trumpeter mig 27 from China and when it arrives at my door i will have paid anything from 10-20 pounds less than buying it in uk and it talkes almost no longer to arrive.
  4. Hi there looking for some help/ suggetstions.. Am currently building a 1/32 English tug and have kind of taken a bit of a what if approach... Basicaly i have made it an (lightly) armed vessel, the story behind my thinking being that it was armed defensivley as it was employed to go out into the Channel in 1940 and rescue damaged/crippled ships that had been attacked by Stukas, i The model is mased on the caldercraft Imara and i have 'borrowed'(been inspired by) a few features from armed tugs in WWII Basically my question is this, Was splinter/ Dazzle camo in use in the channel in during or before the BoB or could it have been (in an effort to legitamise my build) Or were there any interesting camo jobs on similar tugs around that time thanks in advance mark
  5. Hi there looking for some help/ suggetstions.. Am currently building a 1/32 English tug and have kind of taken a bit of a what if approach... Basicaly i have made it an (lightly) armed vessel, the story behind my thinking being that it was armed defensivley as it was employed to go out into the Channel in 1940 and rescue damaged/crippled ships that had been attacked by Stukas, i The model is mased on the caldercraft Imara and i have 'borrowed'(been inspired by) a few features from armed tugs in WWII Basically my question is this, Was splinter/ Dazzle camo in use in the channel in during or before the BoB or could it have been (in an effort to legitamise my build) Or were there any interesting camo jobs on similar tugs around that time thanks in advance mark
  6. Does anyone have a fairly accurate idea of when the Revell He111 (1/32) and Wingscale B25 (1/32) are released ? cheers mark
  7. A10A was Robert Shaws aircraft serial was N3310 Mark
  8. Does anyone have a set of hull lines or formers etc thet they could email me for either the Prinz Eugen or the IJN Nagato, any scale is good as i could enlarge them no problem, by return, i could supply the same of the Tirpitz or Bismarck Many thanks Mark
  9. I have the latest issue and they addressed NONE of the shape issues . All they changed was some of the surface details , it's a great kit but requires a lot of. Chopping and filler to make it look like a C-17
  10. Hi there, have just started doing the same kit, , going to scratchbuild the interior too carrying, i think, a stripped Chinook inside I have moved the wing back and reprofiled the nose, but there is another thing that requires doing... the profile of the fuselage spine immediately infront of the wing root is also way out, it needs bulding up about 5mm at that point and then feathering off toward the cockpit If you look at the fuselage in side view on the kit it has a very strange 'dip' on the top between about an inch behind the cockpit and the wing root leading edge, the real aircraft has a gradual slope all the way i will post a couple of pics as soon as i can figure out how, to show it better- also have come up with a very crafty fix to use the original glass on the now thinner fuselage front to save a lot of messing Mark
  11. Hi Chaps, just about to embark on the 72nd Anigrand c17(with the necessary mods etc) Have had a look on tinterweb and found a few pics but was wondering if anyone knew of any really interesting (aircraft) loads that the c17 has carried for a diorama, dont necessarily need photographic evidence as long as the load was definately carried on one occasion, if therese nothing interesting aircraft wise then any military load is good, i wanted to do one that was positivly crammed with partly dismantled aircraft but need to know what machines and how much they could actually cram in, will run a build thread if anyone is interested regards mark
  12. Hello chaps , I was wondering if one of you might be able to render assistance, I'm looking for a nice fairly large and accurate set of drawings for a hawk. They would need to include former stations for fuselage etc as I'm intending on a scratchbuild in a large scale Thanks Mark
  13. Wow i could not have put that better or found a more similar point of view to my own, have the idiots running things not looked at past, fairly recent even, history and what their short sighted and silly decisions have cost in the long run??? Well written Nick mark
  14. The RAL colours i refer to, i thought , were a standard modern range of colours such as pantone as we use them in the graphics industry (pantone numbers will do i guess ) Car body shops mix to ral specifications and its car paint i require as i need a litre of each not hunmrol tinlet sizes am afraid
  15. Hi Chaps am building a Spitfire but a largeish rc one, but figured the best place to ask this question is here as the knowlegde base on here is my personal fave place on the tinterweb... i would like to know if there are direct RAL colour numbers to use for a BoB camouflaged Spitfire, specifically the modern BBMF Spits ( i dont know if there is any difference at all in modern Spit BBMF colour and the original BoB Spits) i would also like to start with gloss paints as i would on a plastic kit, the colours im looking for are Dark earth Dark green, (dare i say-) Duck egg blue, roundel blue, red and yellow cheers mark
  16. a fair point, i was referring to the dagagaga spit that he bounces the youngster with , amongst other scenes er sorry that should have been dagadagadaga
  17. It was mk297 for sure you might even be able to find it on net
  18. now that is an interesting suggestion, i will look into MKVII, thanks again
  19. Edgar . many thanks for the info, the radio tray idea is a good one but will necessitate a lot more detailing between frame 11 and 13 which i was hoping to avoid (weight wise really tho workwise too haha), however, if the tanks werent fitted then that may have to be the case as the tank in your reference pic is higher in the fuselage than i was expecting or would like as i also wanted to incorporate the voltage regulator. would you know if perhaps any post wartime restoration Spits might have had any tanks fitted. i am probably mistaken but seem to remember seeing a Spit with a rear tank (tho as i said that could well be age and bad memory playing tricks) thanks again for taking the time to help mark
  20. bob many thanks for taking the time to reply The reason is a litlte odd actually, i dont have a scheme in mind yet but it is a radio controlled model at 1/3 scale . it has an extensively detailed cockpit (so far) and i want to put the rear tanks in partly to hide radio control gear within and partly to obscure the view down the rear fuselage whilst looking in the cockpit, so as not to be able to see non realistic balsa structure and ruin the effect cheers mark
  21. Hello chaps, was wondering if someone out there might be able to help. im building a largeish scale Spitfire IX and would like to incorporate the rear tanks, definately the bottom one and possibly the top one (assuming you can have 'either or' ) i m refering to the tanks that sit behind frame 11 . i have the montforton book but it does not reference the tanks at all, perhaps someone has a couple of photos or an old drawing they could post here to help many thanks all the best mark
  22. thanks for taking the time to reply gents, some of themasters are made of wood, some from resin( polyester body filler), all solid, its looking like it might be worth doing a run of say 15 each maybe
  23. hi there, i am in the midldle of finishing a set of moulds for vacforming ,namely, a 1/24 hawk ,and a 1/32 buccaneer, i would mention them on here fre two reasons, firstly, i anyone has access to a vacforming machine with say a 2ft x1 ft and secondly to see if there is sufficient interest to do a run of kits of both, i could make use of a homemede one for a one off each but to do a small production run of say 25 of each would need to use a proffesional machine but would need to kee the costa as low as poss for obvious reasonsa feel free to let me know your thoughts or if anyone is interested am not takin any orders yet but might well if theres enough interest, might well post some ics of the prototype builds and scratchbuilt parts as i do them regards mark
  24. Just a tip tho , let it get to room temp before using it as cold( refrigerated) supreglue isn't very super! It has a poor 'grab' time
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