phil B.

hi wbk! one trick i use with overspray is to spot spray over the offending areas then using an extremely thinned down mix of the base colour (rlm 65 in your case) lightly mist over the entire area. what this will do is to blend in the darker mottle and make it look a lot more subtle, as well as that, a coat of kleer or gloss varnish for transfers will also help with this blending in process- hth and have fun! Phil.

is it a 1/48 kit? i think i can just make out that on the box pic. i ask because i have built the revell 1/72 version 70's issue and the cockpit is nothing like that. thought for a minute that the 1/72 version had been upgraded/re-tooled.

hi all! as it turns out this is actually my first build here, so i'm going for it, and building the 1/24 stuka that i recently bought from jacksdad, a member here. a bit of background, some years ago i decided to start a collection of dinky die cast aircraft, one being their spitfire with a motorised prop. when this came to me from eBay the motor didn't seem to be working at first, so i took it apart, tweeked a few connections, and did get it going. later i decided to try to improve my tweeking, and broke a tiny wire inside ruining the motor i thought that was that until i got talking to a chap i knew at telford 09, who just happened to have a whole box load of these same motors, these were frog boxings meant for their spin a prop range of kits, but also used for the airfix 1/24 kits and dinky die casts. i asked him for four meaning two boxes as each box contained two motors, however he slightly misunderstood me and got four boxes out (eight motors) i was about to correct him, but then i thought "well it couldn't hurt, these thing are hard to find now" so moving on, i replaced the ruined motor in the dinky, picked up a frog beaufighter spin kit (still not built!), and recently thanks to jacksdad, got my hands on the real star of this thread a 1/24 stuka kit! in order to get the motor fitted into the engine block i had to track down a set of original instructions, because the modern one make no mention of fitting a motor, even though airfix now make a modern motor to use on these kits. one interesting thing that turned up from these vintage instructions is that there are parts for a simplified engine block that the motor can be mounted to if you weren't planning on having the cowling open, again there is no mention of this in the modern instructions although all these parts are in the kit. anyway thats enough waffle, time to get to the good stuff- test fitting of the motor test running of the motor, you didn't think i would seal it up inside before i made sure it worked did you? engine block finished and painted, another test run..................................well alright i'm just playing with it here, but its looking good already.

nicely done motley. the poor chap pulling the trolley must be frozen!

i'm currently converting a lancaster into a manchester ( ironically using an old previously built airfix dambuster kit!) and i did more or less what simon describes above- first i drilled a hole at each end, a little bit short of the actual end of the window then, using a scribing tool i took out the middle piece. and finished it off with a couple of rat tail files, its quite slow going but its a very accurate way to open up these windows.

the last time i was at the newark air museum (maybe five-ish years ago now) they had the partial remains of one of these aircraft, apparently left in the garage it was built in, from the mid thirties until the early nineties. unpainted, it honestly looks like something cobbled together from old tea chests! can imagine that had it been finished the owner would simply push it to his nearest public park, hop in, and off he goes!

nice work! i'm in the middle of converting an airfix lancaster into a manchester I. sometime in the future i'd like to build a lincoln too so its been really interesting to see your thread mark.

no wonder it looked familiar! red 12 serial 111980 is the revell kit, red 12 is the one on the front of the box that i just had a look at. wonder what they're doing there?

does anybody know what the small number 12's and the serial number 111980 are for? they're up in the top corner of the sheet, under the century 21 logo and don't seem to appear on the painting/marking instructions, and on the sheet they have a dotted line around them separating them from the rest of the decals

i've got a special hobby sea fury kit i intend to build (one day-honest!) its a colour scheme that really suits the fury imo. what really caught my eye on your build are the lights, what did you use for them?