SeaVenom

They are a bit daunting yes but I can only speak for what worked for me (on the previous page). Again I did get some tiny bits of glue on 1 or 2 windows but I found that after slightly scraping away each aperture so the fit wouldn't be too tight and putting a very thin bit of glue on each surface with a cocktail stick the smudging of glue was very minimal. Have a read of what I did and give it a go on 1 window to see how comfortable you are with doing it that way. I found that once I started and got the hang of it I managed to finish it in 1 night (which I was surprised about).

Shame to hear that. I noticed in the instructions (and remember reading a review years ago) that you need to put a 1mm strip of plastic before joining the fuselage halves so the nose fits on ok.

Hadn't seen that. Good stuff.

Nice clear photo. I've stuck all those parts now (obviously not the fuselage together yet ) but I find it helps to keep checking how it's coming together by using unglued main parts (such as A8) etc. Hopefully I get it all to line up.

Cheers for that. Great diagram and I'll have a good detailed look at it tomorrow.

Nice. Hopefully I'll get this for Xmas to gp alongside my Academy Stratocruiser.

Do you mean they're compressed on the kit? I know photo's can be deceptive and maybe I'm wrong but the wheels do look a bit smaller on the Halifax to me when comparing these 2 photo's....... http://www.tangmere-museum.org.uk/aircraft-month/handley-page-halifax (3rd photo on the left) http://www.warbirdsresourcegroup.org/AARG/lancaster.html

Thanks. Looking at those pics they don't seem to resemble much of what MPM's provided.

Thanks for that. It's amazing how little interior reference is out there on the web though.

I think it must have been after the problems were apparent as he does point them out. I don't know how correct the Matchbox wheels are but when I've fitted them into the new Revell kits undercarriage the gap between the top of the tyre and undercarriage arch looks too small compared to the real life photo he provided in that link.

Yours turned out nice anyway. I'm still unsure though if parts A30 and A27 are supposed to be glued on to parts A11 and A17 the way it shows in both sets of instructions. In the instructions it shows that parts A27 and A30 glue on to the solid surfaces of A17 and A11...... but A31 glues on to the open edges of part A35. Anyone know if those 2 parts (A30 and A27) should really be glued on to the open ends of parts A11 and A17 instead? It seems a bit odd to me that the ends of those 2 parts remain open. Hope that makes sense. Again I can't find any decent interior photo's of Hudsons. They mainly show the dash.

Here's an interesting build which says maybe the wheels aren't too small......... https://www.scalemodellingnow.com/aircraft-revell-handleypagehalifaxbmk1/8 and on the previous page the builder says he used the prop blades from a Revell Lanc.

Yes the windows are very tricky. Incredibly though I managed to fit them all without getting hardly any glue on them. I scraped the window apertures slightly beforehand, held the windows with a piece of blutac and run a very slight amount of glue with a blunted cocktail stick around all the edges then around the apertures...... then carefully pushed the windows in with the blutac. There's a slight amount of glue around each window but I scraped that off after leaving the glue dry for about 20 minutes or so (so it was drier and didn't smudge the windows). Only 1 or 2 windows have a small bit of glue on them which I'll see if I can polish off with toothpaste. As for the reflections I see exactly what you mean but now they're all in and I somehow managed to get them fairly straight I can't say the slight variations in reflection bother me.

Yes I've seen a few reviews saying about the fit but nice to know beforehand. Didn't know Italeri had reboxed it though.

Thanks for that. Lot clearer.

I'm building this but the instructions are a bit vague to me. In particular I need to find out the correct position etc of the following parts.... A6, A36 plus A33 and where exactly they fit onto A3 (A6 and A36 don't seem to fit on to A3 like the instructions show). A31 and how it fits on to A35 A27 ,, ,, ,, on to A17 A30 ,, ,, ,, ,, A11 I know the instructions seem clear in 'some' ways but after test fitting they don't seem quite right to me. plus where exactly...... A22, A28 and A20 fit on to the main fuselage A1. The instructions there are a bit clearer but again I'd still like to check. I can't find any decent photo's of the MPM cockpit on Google.

Nice wing detail.

Interesting to see those and they look quite nice. Nice also to see non rubber tracks though the Tiger ones could do with more detail.

Good points. It's hard to tell sometimes without clear photo's and diagrams.

One of the few top shots I could find is this ....... https://cdn-live.warthunder.com/uploads/ed/babc94b6cdac61e9fa13700e2bb5a48ee89061/15ffd20e6a1d1c9da5dffe8a569cef12.jpg I'm certainly no expert on the Hornet but there looks like a few panel lines on there over much of the wings.

Yes. Good point.

I hope I'm correct in assuming that the kit comes with the option for landing gear up after looking at that photo. The Vamp is one of those aircraft (along with the Hunter) that looks better with the landing gear up.

Nice box art.

Looks nice from those photo's and it looks more like a mainstream kit than short run. Like the Mystere which Azur also released.

That's a good thing it's separate and the kit will be all plastic as not everyone likes resin.