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72nd SQN

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    Runaway Bay, QLD

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  1. Thanks @Cheshiretaurus, I got stitched up not realising that the E spruce and F sure were not identical or to be precise that each nacelle has a certain way of ensuring the parts on what appear to be identical sprues actually should be built- there are a few things in the Airfix instructions that you do have to follow closely- I ended up with two jacks on one and none on the other landing gear! Fixed now but almost did the same thing with the small vents In The nacelle, they are quite specific to the fit of each side. Your Mossie is coming along really nicely!
  2. Looking great @ProfSparks, nice kit the Tamiya one and your improvements will really make it a great finished model.
  3. Button on the side of the Stuka would drop a very weighty bomb - loads of surprise attacks on Matchbox kits in my backyard by my Stuka!!
  4. So……. to the big modification. The flat PR.XVI belly. I kinda have a feeling that aftermarket conversions will be coming down the path, but I will make a few of these (RAAF and Fleet Air Arm) so will contemplate those at a later date. In the meantime, I started playing with the bomb-bay from a Tamiya B.IV and low and behold it is almost a perfect fit. You just need to raise it up with a strip of 20thou each side and voila ! The gap you can see at the rear is filled by the rear bulkhead from the bomb-bay, there is a little bit of work lengthwise to adjust, but seriously not much in it. I also drilled out the Camera ports in the rear fuselage and made a plastic card fairing for the gap left by not fitting the rear bomb-bay fairing (or TT fairing as it seems :)!). Because Airfix make the front bomb-bay bulkhead as a single solid pice, its just a matter of hitting it with the file until it is flush with the front of the bomb bay doors. I used the punch and die set to make some clear 10thou camera ports and then also some 5thou rings to go around and cover the joins, these will be sanded down later, to just leave a representation. You will also notice that I rescribed the starboard rear hatch as its there on the kit, but not as well defined as it should be as well as well as the 3 ID lights which need to be added. Masked off the clear camera ports and the conversion part of the kit is starting to shape up now. For those worried about what am I going to do with the rest of Tamiya B.IV, it is half way to being converted to a TT.39 and has it's own set of scratch built bomb-bay doors (I will also use the spare paddle props from the Tamiya kit as well on this kit) Reference shot below of a set of PR.XVI bomb-bay doors being restored - thanks for tuning in ! cheers P
  5. Thanks Steve, there is a lot of really good things about the kit and loads of scope to make it a really good model or just put it together as the fit so far has been excellent. cheers P
  6. Agree Mark, they really capture the “sag”, I didn’t really have a great go at these, so looking forward to taking the learnings from these and putting them into a Spitfire cockpit where they are really on show. cheers P
  7. Hey Bedders - thanks heaps, hope that you get one and get started! it’s a really good kit and goes together really well the engineering and fit is great. No kit is perfect, even an Eduard Spitfire has things you should do to make it a better model……
  8. Hey Gondor, I got my first in Japan about 4 years ago, and then promptly broke it- they are a bit brittle. I had a bit of trouble getting a replacement but try the normal sites, HLJ, Plaza and this is Hobby Search- says it’s not available but if you can get one it’s an awesome little (delicate) saw! https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10262552 For bending my photo-etch, I tend not to use pliers, but use a bending tool, just a little one made by Trumpeter, but it’s much squarer, I find that the pliers move a little and end up with a slight round edge, whereas the bending tool is very sturdy. cheers P
  9. Have completed the cockpit, using some Aires parts from a Tamiya B.IV detail set. First I attached the crew door with bomb bay fairing attached on the underside for strength before I cut it out using the pin vice and 0.3mm saw. The Aires detail set floor is a really good fit just a bit of milliput to blend it in. At this stage it was about putting in some photo etch including instrument panel and making up a seat from a spare Eduard Etch set The radio’s from the Aires set are beautiful. The cabling moulded into by Airfix is really good and just needs a wash and dry-brush. The Seat belts are the Kit World 3D printed decals. I am happy with way it’s shaping up and hoping to still see some of this detail under the canopy once it’s on!
  10. Mildly obsessing over the shape of the chin intakes, I reworked them a little further to fair in the top section as it was still looking a bit boxy, but much better now. I also decided that I didn’t want to insert the exhausts at this stage, so first step, was to drill out the exhausts, which I did by marking the ends black and then drilling out all 24 (yes 24) exhaust stubs. The black makes it easy to see the edges and keep the hole in the exhaust centered. After some test fitting, it isn’t possible to get the exhausts in after assembly without trimming the bottom of the exhausts, which I did with a very fine razor saw (the two on the right have been modified). Now the exhausts can go in after painting. Exhausts were painted in Alclad Burnt Pale Metal and Jet Exhaust, using this reference from an actual RAAF PR.XVI. My second adjustment to the build was to enhance the rear of the radiator. I personally hate it when radiators are modelled with somewhere for the air to go in, but no where for it to vent, so, I cut out the entire section from the bottom wing, cutting at a 45degree angle which had the duel effect of thinning out the trailing edge and leaving the duct shape. The plan is that I can affix it back later and the hot air now has somewhere to exit! This means that some detail has to be added to the back of the radiator, so I used a resin detailed piece intended for the Tamiya kit to give the back of the radiator some detail. Lastly, just want to say what a joy the nacelle is to put together. The carb intakes just drop in can be secured with some extra thin liquid glue. I tend to over putty, but the fit has been pretty good. Drop the mask supplied in the kit in and secure in place with some maskol and it’s ready to be finished. Really well engineered.
  11. Nice choice, I am doing an overall Aluminium one from 87 (Survey) Sqn, but will do the PR Blue one as well at a later stage.
  12. @Rabbit Leader- Thanks Dave, definitely a few details and things will help it along to fit into the collection.
  13. Thanks everyone for the feedback, I am enjoying the tweaks to the kit, one of the other area’s that needed some hollowing out are the carb intakes. You can see how open they are on the pic in the previous post. It’s a pretty simple thing to just remove the blanking plate, but another little thing that makes a big difference. Modified carb intakes are on the right. Now after going to the trouble of opening everything up, I put some black blanking plates further back in the nacelle to stop the “see-through“ look. After assembly, much happier with the look of the two-stage Merlin nacelles. You can also see the smaller intakes have been opened up as well.
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