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Pascal

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Posts posted by Pascal

  1. Don't know if I will be able to turn it into a diamond, but I'll give it my very best.

     

    Did some work on the side windows, took me days to get the windows to kind of fit. Still a lot of work left to get the fit right :

     

    2f0b00f05cc9c9bf64ba134377580f45.jpg

     

    5ea448b699762641b1f79dadeb19022a.jpg

     

    The other side was just as bad, but slowly we're getting some results :

     

    e728cfd50ae699955cb3de97325bc2cb.jpg

     

    1055cc7ad5e60917edb9e6b0dfd843d3.jpg

     

    The louvres behind the side windows will have to be rebuild, I might try scribing them a bit deeper using a comb as a guide. We'll see.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  2. The interior will be completely changed, this is how it looked when the model arrived :

     

    eaff0c9205da5d684b83b7b3f522b4a0.jpg

     

    I started with this part, it's warped and the left side is much longer then the right side :

     

    1e7e5d205f6161d8795508fc9e2384b6.jpg

     

    Set by step :

     

    e30b2173dd3f49bcf46bca2af8dc7bb7.jpg

     

    c9fbc238341ff7c703ff85dee5b496b8.jpg

     

    83c1dbda80e33f54ba5568c81862d155.jpg

     

    The red paint and self-adhesive felt was removed, the area behind the seat was rebuild. Here's a dryfit :

     

    b3d6b3ffb131212f1c45e6641c0742b1.jpg

     

    cf6e3b9e4de54de47cbc980693eb837a.jpg

     

    47d24273dec80dddfabcefc1f1ad8620.jpg

     

    1/1 scale reference :

     

    a62b4398c22ff3e31fb67bb65e248e82.jpg

     

    55bee2345b6c5678a0d7f1b2f3e98636.jpg

     

    Sincerely

    Pascal

     

     

    • Like 5
  3. I got tired fixing the problems with the windows, so i turned my attention to the backside of the body (sounds a bit raunchy).

     

    A prominent feature of the backside are the lights. A close inspection revealed that the holes for the lights aren't round and they're not on the same height :

     

    30a616eccb17655bed3e88d523da6248.jpg

     

    I started with drilling the holes :

     

    1d81d5b83bba9101a88c7cced6f43f43.jpg

     

    Then glued a piece of tubing inside the hole. This will be sanded flush, so that the holes are perfectly round :

     

    5f54481812cec472d80e7525697a842f.jpg

     

    3148660bbbcc71b9bcbdfd7e4a0f3060.jpg

     

    A piece of alu tubing will form the rim for the lights. The alu tubing will be polished or painted with chrome paint :

     

    00bf65bc3e5ddb8f73fa16f31af0ac4f.jpg

     

    After a couple of hours of sanding (to get the top of the rear of the body straight) this is the result (the bumper is a dryfit) :

     

    feee044bbe12e21e5b8625aaa97da539.jpg

     

    bd1a327d92fff8137e17bd6183901a9d.jpg

     

    Sincerely

    Pascal

    • Like 6
  4. Here we go. If this was a zamac or styrene body, I would use my Dremel. But all the parts are resin, so out came the knives and files.

     

    Started carving a groove to hold the windscreen and added a few styrene strips  :

     

    542c211213898a329668aff404296882.jpg

     

    78b1991db51c375a950568ff58e7f7d9.jpg

     

    More strips and more CA + flour :

     

    8590496cc11168f61b3f0e71fe80c7bc.jpg

     

    5e4ece871aa4a9d2b4ce55596c3c3e61.jpg

     

    dec0329f1e221de86c227d6cfec8d3a1.jpg

     

    Windscreen dryfit, still a lot of gaps everywhere :

     

    74caaed96bf1bf2fdaf836207c40c92d.jpg

     

    6b407ed678037ff4ec366eeb04591276.jpg

     

    The photos above are the result of a couple of weeks (or was it months ?) of work.

     

    Basically, I carved, filed, sanded, puttied, carved, filed and sanded a few hours a day, only to get nowhere.

     

    I finally put the kit away for a week or two, then started on the backside of the body, but that will be for the next update.

     

    All reactions, tips, help and criticism are welcome.

     

    Sincereley

     

    Pascal

     

    • Like 3
  5. Last year I got an email from a collector. He told me that he had a partially build resin kit of the Ferrari 250 Bertone GT.

     

    The Ferrari 250 Bertone GT is a "one-off" car that was recently restored :

     

    a5bc19446321d5896a7a104455bf8a6f.jpg

     

    b6ba3e7bbc0b46a8fc807f1d6371f482.jpg

     

    d838b825bfc4f4ff4b7b777b6e3a8538.jpg

     

    a62b4398c22ff3e31fb67bb65e248e82.jpg

     

    55bee2345b6c5678a0d7f1b2f3e98636.jpg

     

    The collector bought this kit second hand. He had no idea who the maker was, but he send me some photos of the partially build kit :

     

    f5d8f942747a7186b17c1c42546b376f.jpg

     

    9be3cb8a17393a2702f3309d80ca7d0d.jpg

     

    0757fe15776fa303f163216e8307184c.jpg

     

    35b153b0124238cd954a87c2ee4b30e9.jpg

     

    5e2e5e648c28770d1634e8208330c15f.jpg

     

    He said : "All it needs is to be painted and completed".

     

    I accepted  what looked like an easy project, but when I put the kit on my workbench it became clear that this would be quite a challenge.

     

    I removed the primer and then the resin horror show began :

     

    30a616eccb17655bed3e88d523da6248.jpg

     

    Lots of detail that is missing and panellines that look like trenches :

     

    c984c836a58b2b8739ac565b93d40f7e.jpg

     

    The kit has no brake discs and the wheels were superglued to the resin. Removing the wheels wasn't easy - I actually broke the PE on one of them - they will be replaced by AM wheels :

     

    a469451ceb26be25987a30febba0005e.jpg

     

    I removed the seats only to discover that the chassis was bend :

     

    eaff0c9205da5d684b83b7b3f522b4a0.jpg

     

    A dryfit of the windshield showed that this would be a major project :

     

    a7c98ecf1c7b470c9cbd6d8f3b862f55.jpg

     

    But enough on the negative side of this kit. Allow me to share this work-in-progress as I battle this kit into submission.

     

    Will post the updates later this day.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 10
  6. Thank you for your answer Codger. I was under the impression that your answer was gonna be about general shapes and lines of the TR kit.

     

    I totally agree that an OOB finished Pocher TR looks like a big Bburago (or even not as good as a Bburago).

     

    In my opinion a Pocher TR is good (if you can find a cheap one, let's say 80-100 euros) to get experience with building a big scale model.

     

    You can build it without glue nor paint, you can take it apart and put it back together (well most of it anyway).

     

    That makes it a candidate for a starter 1/8 model kit, as long as one doesn't expect a good finished model.

     

    But I should have read the topic starter's first post a bit better :

     

    On 2/11/2019 at 8:59 AM, TGA said:

    Since a lot of people have been saying 1:8 is the way to go and I love the idea of being able to super detail things I was wondering what you guys would consider a good 1:8 model to start with (that isn't overly expensive). What are your thoughts? 

     

    Yes a Pocher Ferrari is a poor base kit. And if you consider the costs to super detail one of those kits, the answer is a definite : NO, it's not a good 1:8 model to start with.

     

    Just the hundreds of tiny hexagonal bolts and nuts that are needed to add some detail, are expensive.

     

    Sorry for the confusion that I caused with my previous answer.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Thanks 1
  7. I've got some more updates to show, this is how I made the H-shaped support that holds the fan in place.

     

    A couple of reference photos that I took when the car was in France :

     

    1_Afbeelding_118abc.jpg

     

    1_24022011b.jpg

     

    I made the H-support out of brass sheet :

     

    1_01032011__5_.jpg

     

    It has 6 brass and 2 plastic parts :

     

    1_01032011__1_.jpg

     

    The white triangle will hold the motor of the fan :

     

    1_01032011__2_.jpg

     

    Dryfit :

     

    1_01032011__4_.jpg

     

    1_01032011__3_.jpg

     

    I used copper wire to make the "border" that's on the outside of the H-shaped support :

     

    1_05042011C__1_.jpg

     

    1_05042011C__2_.jpg

     

    1_05042011C.jpg

     

    Not my best work, but the 1/1 support on the real car is a bit rough as well.

    I might redo the border, cause I used CA to glue the wire in place.

    Soldering will give it a lot more strength and will allow me to sand the rough edges.

     

    Speaking of soldering : I made this with solder and a couple of brass tubes.

     

    Reference pic :

     

    1_160211b.jpg

     

    My 1/8 scale version :

     

    1_06042011.jpg

     

    1_06042011__1_.jpg

     

    1_06042011__2_.jpg

     

    Dryfit, I'm quite pleased with the result :

     

    1_06042011__3_.jpg

     

    1_06042011__4_.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 2
  8. I hope to have more free time in 2019, really would like to finish this build this year.

     

    One of the things that make this car unique are the vertical "fins" that are located just behind the front wheels :

     

    0e548d2aa3eba4be82e946e4e29dbb0b.jpg

     

    The fins come with this little PE-set  from Legende Miniatures  :

     

    bv000028.jpg

     

    There's no way I can glue these little pieces of flat PE to the body. So I soldered a couple of metal strips to the top and bottom :

     

    948dd990a471f968bec08eb912be5ca5.jpg

     

    c4e380a2c94b32a0d4fd28a77f05f622.jpg

     

    To hold the metal pieces in place, I clamped them on a piece of aluminium plate that was bend in a 90° angle.

    This way it was just a matter of putting some flux and solder on the joint, use the "creme brulee" torch and voila : a solid bond :

     

    8a26756da3c80a97362e9c60498028b9.jpg

     

    Dryfit on the  body :

     

    f1be67590124596282a28ac0c81f26e8.jpg

     

    773d814678afdbc1e6e04564fb02dbc3.jpg

     

    At the rear the shocks are attached to a "kidney" shaped piece of black plastic.

    The rod ends and tubes that I made earlier were to big, I couldn't fit them on the rear suspension without hitting the driveshaft.

    This time I used a tube of smaller diameter (about half of the first version) and soldered a tiny brass ring to a piece of copper wire to make the rod ends.

    I'll have to make a couple more cause the copper wire is not in the middle of the brass ring :

     

    27541af597e8e7d3a2d4491fef5f84b2.jpg

     

    The kidney shaped part received another hole, this will hold a hexgonal bolt :

     

    49a703424bbc97c3f9062185c6b6197b.jpg

     

    Turned the lid (3mm diameter) from an aluminium rod with my lathe :

     

    6b5c893aabf3febf37a1b45445932658.jpg

     

    A dryfit shows the hexagonal bolt in the lid. The head of the bolt is 1mm wide, but's it's to big. I will replace it with a 0,8mm bolt :

     

    6094254eceaf176a9bf5e15bdeea86a4.jpg

     

    In the end, it should look like this :

     

    733c1de5ef58c4ecd84aad89e2fdea92.jpg

     

    Sincerely

    Pascal

  9. Thx Harvey !

     

    Update :

    The 333SP has a diagonal bar that sits in front of the big airscoop :

     

    b6e267156a12219b78f960ac44e8a5d5.jpg

     

    ba529a6380def3674448f33db6fd61d0.jpg

     

    Hotwheels made this bar run thru the airscoop in stead of in front of it. First task was to plug the hole :

     

    4ab4bf6cfee3480deab6d576008dc151.jpg

     

    Then remove enough plastic to make room for the bar :

     

    955229edeee3ffa72822c27490a71bb5.jpg

     

    I drilled a hole on the left side, made the strange contraption that holds the bar on the right side :

     

    7c0a3b75edbe37546810346e0d1b4628.jpg

     

    Looks rough, needs some filler and sanding :

     

    0e7c18ad452f08206f7a23ac4a9e6e42.jpg

     

    Dryfit with the new bar :

     

    d570579da001b568f49651601ccae0b9.jpg

    bbac1e658c457a331ec5c83c6e5f1a01.jpg

     

    This (the clear part) is all that remains of the original Hotwheels side-window, I used my mill to make a ledge that will hold the new side-window :

     

    3a2f0c4fc7408badaf5813b9b765f797.jpg

     

    50300da8e82adf2d9a538436cd92cc28.jpg

     

    3c8928abebe86849fe5d7597005a181f.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 2
  10. Update.

     

    No matter how much detail you add to a model, the thing that will always draw everyone's attention is the body.

     

    Spend a lot of hour getting the fit between the engine lid and the body as tight as possible. The tiny gaps that are still there will be filled by the primer, paint and clear coats :

     

    60ff9db93907622432598ab6f30c34f8.jpg

     

    162a50f733cdcaf7807e8944bad5e427.jpg

     

    I didn't like the way Hotwheels fixed the big plastic airscoop to the body.  It was sealed to the body using heat, but it was fixed about 1,5 mm to far aft.

     

    I did quite a few modifications to the plastic airscoop (it's black plastic) and glued it in place. Then followed a couple of rounds of putty and sanding. It needs a bit more sanding to smooth out the gaps :

     

    4fb7dd8df9d4c8c5aa1b7fc7bc97697e.jpg

     

    Removal of more unwanted zamac.

     

    Before :

     

    4055b8b2661a56d3f6738ffb05e20c00.jpg

     

    And after :

     

    4d02a08be61bffd6a136cd656354c767.jpg

     

    Small update, but the result of endless dryfitting and modifying.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

  11. Dear Mr. H. ,

     

    I've spent a couple of hours examining your WIP. Had to replace my keyboad twice, because my chin destroyed it when my mouth fell open.

     

    This project is truly a work of art. You make it look so simple, but it's definitely NOT.

     

    I see some amazing scratchbuilding, very cleverly executed steps and SUBLIME craftsmanship !

     

    One would think that seeing your work, would make me crawl in a dark corner and give up modelling forever.

     

    But your project is a GREAT inspiration, that motivates me to go the extra mile on my own projects.

     

    My hat's off to you sir, I stand in awe.

     

    Thank you for sharing this magnificent project.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1
  12. Thx guys !

     

    After fiddling with the tiny parts, I'm glad to work on something a lot bigger.

     

    Hotwheels made the side windows like this :

    0eb98647f12c6b595fdcbc1994be3e14.jpg

    Doesn't look to bad, but they've made the diagonal tube and the window as 1 piece. This wont allow me to paint the tube red, unless I do it the Hotwheels way and paint part of the window ?!

    On the real car the side windows look like this :

    ab8eaff7eaa9cab8b4635e9478140f95.jpg

    b089412f523f8098d516c7fc53238548.jpg

    b6e267156a12219b78f960ac44e8a5d5.jpg
    (Pictures for reference only)

    Hard to see in the pictures, but the bottom of the window is fitted to the inside of the body, and the top of the window is fitted to a strip that's attached to the underside of the tube.

     

    This gave me quite a few headaches, but I found a way ...

    Start with the Hotwheels part  :

    a9aa39057b7281e127d0c79325d4917d.jpg

    Introduce it to my Dremel :

    d68249ab27084104ff48208147496900.jpg

    Use the milling machine to mill a channel in a plastic tube :

    5c65f4ed55a0055f8305191f0c1b9395.jpg

    Glue a plastic strip inside the channel (the holes for the rivets will be drilled later) :

    586ad623e9bf0dbd95c02786a2ba35dd.jpg

    And do a dryfit :

    09f501ebc0704cbabd04561f6fb85ccd.jpg

    eb26d2c01d728f29166c8478eca562a9.jpg

    Still plenty of work to get the shape and details of the tube and frame right, but I'm very happy that it turned out OK.

    Arrivederci ragazzi.

    Pascal

    • Like 3
  13. Work continues on the second handle. Here's a dryfit with the tube that runs to the back of the cockpit :


    6aa95537746c876c2e143a1169a1a75b.jpg

    I made the little ball (1,2 mm diameter) from a piece of alu sewing needle, total length of the handle is 7mm.

     

    Dryfit with the triangular base :


    6220a6df0282be6b0bbb7623779b4de2.jpg

    The macro pictures show that the copper tubes (0,6 mm diameter) are not aligned, this has been changed after the picture was taken :

    d12eb82e84ea42a65f3aac6f0856d4ef.jpg

    The handle is adjustable :

    c2810c7f22df80ed463532a669afba91.jpg

    9d137bbfbe35a7d18cfb9b8a0e1754c4.jpg

    5545ebeaa7fabc21be8898f9cf05a3f4.jpg

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  14. 4 hours ago, Sabrejet said:

    This is making great watching: the changes you've made really highlight how poor the original Pocher kit is. We used to think these were top-notch but they haven't aged well. Still you've shown that a silk purse is still possible. :yes:

    I think it's quite the contrary. Back in the eighties a Pocher F40 was available for around 250 euros (216 pound sterling). The kit wasn't meant for modellers. It can be assembled without glue nor paint. You have to compare it to the 1/18 Bburago F40, which was at that time the only alternative. The BBurago was available for around 75 euros, but it looks like a poor detailed Matchbox next to it's big Pocher brother.

     

    As far as modellers are concerned, the kit was (and stilll is)  a great base for adding details, aftermarket or scratchbuild. AND it is still a very nice kit for someone that has never build (assembled) a big scale model.

     

    Basically it was a GREAT kit. The only thing that went wrong is that Pocher went bankrupt and the prices have gone up to very silly levels.

     

    The Hornby / Pocher Lambo's are now available for 3 times the price of the original F40, but they look no where near 3 times as good as the venerable F40 kit.

     

    Just my 2 cents ^_^

  15. Thx H, so nice to see a reaction in my WIP ^_^

     

    Update :

     

    I had covered the dashboard with these decals :

     

    0f4a4c282ce05f1deb007eaa5c39952d.jpg

     

    But the real car has a different type of carbon, so I scraped them off and replaced them with these :

     

    3675874c5d35225a7db9b226251fefb1.jpg

     

    Spent a couple of hours fiddling with some tiny parts, like these :

     

    9ebb0a62f4d2917241ed42bb75bfbcc0.jpg

     

    Those are very tiny open rivets, outer diameter : 0,8mm, inner : 0,6mm, length : 2,2mm.

     

    Three are visible in this photo, together with some other small parts :

     

    fce4c39b5e15dfcbc13146ffb3e8faeb.jpg

     

    These will become the 2 handles that are attached to the center console :

     

    14b5779818f110d5c602bcd241889189.jpg

     

    Dryfit of the first handle, it contains 5 tiny parts :

     

    9b1572331dfacac55f81c06b54fcb323.jpg

     

    f5dfd437e6913dba6a412129c99fe440.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

  16. Thx guys !

     

    Been fighting for 2 days with the carbon decals from Tuner Model Manufactory. These decals are terrible.

     

    They're very hard, wont stick to plastic (unpainted, painted, varnished, ...) and are immune to Microscale Set & Sol.

     

    I've fixed them in place with Parket Plus (Sols). The pictures clearly show the gloss of the P+, this will be toned down with a satin or matt clearcoat.


    This picture shows a large, uneven strip running almost the entire length of the cockpit. With the naked eye this strip looks just like the strip on the real car :

    ce26f8820e1bb8de764b477c43af30d6.jpg

    Looks terrible, but will be better after the weathering :

    7f5e9dd109ad357f4922f039ecd7005c.jpg

    The dashboard has also been wrapped in carbon fibre, some edges still need to be cut :

    0f4a4c282ce05f1deb007eaa5c39952d.jpg

    Used my Dremel to make the 4 tiny fuses and the connector that will be fixed to the left side of the dashboard  :

    f17b059f91850ea899e5e901225fbfb9.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 3
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