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Everything posted by Pascal

  1. Very nice work ! Personally, I would have made the pulley from brass and coloured the fan black, but that's a matter of taste. If you're planning on making 736 more parts, it might be worth to take a look at the engine block. Pocher has made it quite different (especially the top part) from a real F40 block. I should have some photos of the engine block somewhere, can have a look and post them here if you're interested. Like this one : Sincerely Pascal
  2. Hi Codger, I use these cutting disks : They don't shatter like the standard cutting disks. If you use them a low speed they cut slowly through the zamac. If you use them at high speed, they wear out quickly and the diameter becomes smaller. That last thing is an advantage because you get all kind of diameters for small cuts. After the initial cuts with the disks, I use one of these to shape the slots and or holes : The final shaping is done with files. Sincerely Pascal
  3. I did a ton of work the last couple of weeks, time for an update. I glued the NACA duct to the front hood, the ducts came out of the part that I cut from that hood to make the large hole for the air inlet : The BBurago hole for the headlights : I made these bigger for the LM and IMSA versions : Before and after family photo : Started with this Bburago part : I removed the grills, tubes and some plastic from the rounded area to the back, and started boxing in the new bigger holes : Dryfit : These parts were 3D-printed. The red louvres are for the GTE version, these were drawn and printend by a belgian friend. The black louvres are for the IMSA version, these were drawn and printend by an italian friend : Dryfit with the red louvres and NACA ducts : Dryfit with the black louvres : These need a bit more sanding, luckily the dimensions and especially the height are perfect : Made a hole and glued in the NACA ducts on the sides of the body (LM, GTE en IMSA versions) : These tubes were printed in Italy : As were these U-shaped brackets that hold the suspension arms. I ordered 100 of these : Back to the tubes. The first one is glued into the frame and some putty has been smeared to plug the gaps. Needs a little sanding, but it's a major improvement to the first version that I made with the green plastic tubes : One side of the tube is more round then the other, just like with a 1/1 scale F40 : These are the headlights of the Hotwheels F40 : These are headlights from Legende Miniatures : The look OK, but they dont have the depth of real headlight. I made these with the lathe. The macro-photo has each of them look a bit different, with the naked eye they all look the same. The first one took a couple of hours to make, now it takes about 20 mins to make 1 headlight : In this photo the left one has a round piece of clear plastic. I will use thicker sheet cause it's barely visible : Used the lathe to turn the BBurago tires into slicks : Some light sanding is still needed and the sides need to be rounded : That's it. Next update will have to wait a few months, because I have to repeat all the modifications to the other 8 F40's. Till next time Pascal
  4. Very nice work Dave, love all the details that you added. Great photos Sabrejet !
  5. This livery is for chassisnumber 962-009, as it raced in the 1987 200 miles of N├╝rnberg. The 200 miles were done in 2 races of 100 miles each. For the first race the car was driven by Stuck (it finished second), for the second race it was driven by Bell (did not finish). I haven't seen a picture of the real car with both driver names on the sides, all the pictures show only the name of Stuck. But almost all the pictures of scale models show both names, somewhere some modelling company must have made a mistake. There's 2 more things that you might wanna change with the Tamiya kit : plug the holes for the screws (both sides of the body) and make the air inlets in the doors deeper (they are to shallow, the body from this Tamiya kit is from a former motorised kit) Sincerely Pascal
  6. Hi Hamish, I should be able to post an update in a few days. The grey / silver LM is not a real LM. It has a mix of parts : LM style rear wing, LM style side naca inlets under the doors, LM style naca inlet and big air scoop on the front bonnet, LM style front splitter and headlights but the rest of the front bonnet is GTE style : vents over the front wheels and small naca inlets behind those vents. It is also an F40 fitted with a catalyst, and that is something that I've never seen on a scale model. What the difference between a non-catalyst and a catalyst F40 ? Well first of all the rear frame is different : Non-catalyst : Catalyst : There are a number of different versions of the F40 : prototype, street version (with or without variable suspension, with or without catalyst, lightweight and basic version), LM version (IMSA spec and "normal" LM spec) , GT version (with or without catalyst), GTE version and last but not least all the street versions that have been altered in different ways to improve performance but mostly to make them look like an LM, GT or GTE version. I'll try to make a different topic with pictures to show the different versions. Sincerely Pascal
  7. Looks like a nice kit of an iconic Ferrari. Mike Sheehan has some nice pics on his website : https://ferraris-online.com/cars/1962-ferrari-250-gto-3387/ Some info on the 250 GTO : https://www.topgear.com/car-news/classic/ferrari-250-gto-everything-you-need-know Sincerely Pascal
  8. I can highly recommend the Motip spray cans. Very nice work on the engine / gearbox. Love the tiny scratchbuild details that you added. What paint did you use to get the rough finish on this part ? : Sincerely Pascal
  9. Been very busy the last week. Everytime that I modifie a piece, the same has to be done to the other 8 Bburago F-40's. My workbench is littered with parts : I removed about 5mm from the front part of the frame. Before : After : I finally cut all the struts from a U-shaped brass profile. Took me couple of hour. Sorry for the lousy picture : The struts are sanded on the top, so that the piece of plasticard fits nicely : I'm using this part from a Kyosho F-40 to make some details that will go on to the back of the piece of plasticard : Kyosho made the air inlet tubes like this : This is a first test on one of the Bburago frames, I might want the alter the shape of the hole a bit because now the tube gets squashed : I hope that the tube will look like this when done : Sincerely Pascal
  10. Hi guys, I broke one of the wheels of my 1/18 UT Models Porsche 911 GT1. I have a wheel insert from S.M.S., that I want to use to make a rubber mould. Do you think it's possible to make a mould with this insert ? And can you explain how to do it ? : Any help and tips are welcome. Sincerely Pascal
  11. Nice project ! I'm very happy to see another modeller giving some "TLC" to a diecast model. There is 1 manufacturer (that I know of) that makes decals in 1/12 scale. He does this set for your model. It costs $56 : The manufacturer is pattos place, located in Australia : http://members.optusnet.com.au/pattosplace/home.html If you want / need to detail the interior I highly recommend self-adhesive aluminium tape. Sincerely Pascal
  12. Hi Jeroen, there's a number of reasons why I'm building between 9 and 11 F40's at the same time. First of all the Bburago model is very cheap, I originally wanted to modify a couple of Kyosho F40's, but they go for crazy prices. Second, though the Bburago model is a decent model for its age, it's also bad in some areas, so that leaves a lot of room for improvement. Third, I'm 100% sure that when I'm done with these Bburago F40's, I'm never gonna touch one again, so it's basically : build them while I can. Sincerely Pascal
  13. @ Codger : how are you mate ? Thank you for your kind words. Yes I do know a lot about Ferrari, but I also know a lot of italians and germans. My italian friends are the real Ferrari affectionados, for them Ferrari is a holy as the Vatican, and Michael Schumacher is a god. They tell me time and again how much italians adore Vettel and the things he does for the workers at the factory. For those italians Vettel is a much italian as he is german. My german fans are of course big fans of Vettel and Mercedes, wich leads to very interesting conversations about Ferrari and Vettel. PS : Funny that you mention my Ferrari models, this week I continued with my F40 production line (after a 5 year break ) :
  14. I finally put this project back on the modelling table. Nine of my 11 Bburago F40's will go to the production process. Some pics of the F40 graveyard : A couple of years ago a friend of mine made about 30 of these with his CNC milling machine : The goal is to make a frame like this one from a Kyosho F40 : That's were this project got stuck. I had no idea how to turn those A's into a frame, untill about a week ago : TATAAAA, I have an idea. First step : glue a piece of plasticard - in a shallow angle - on top of the frame : Step 2 : connect the A's with some scrap plastic : First dryfit shows that there's some tweaking left to do, but the idea seems to work : The Kyosho will serve as a donor for a lot more parts, here's a couple of them : Sincerely Pascal
  15. Vettel is a bit overrated ? Vettel brings his mojo to a team. He works very hard off the track, is loved by the team and by the workers at the Ferrari factory. He's not as good at it as Michael was, but his personality brings a lot to Ferrari. Alas Ferrari F1 management isn't what it used to be. The days of Ross Brown and Jean Todt are long gone (Vettel would have fit perfectly with those two). It's clear that Vettel misses the relation he had with Christian Horner and he gets more respect from Toto Wolf then from his own team boss. That's why he's leaving Ferrari, a bit the same reason why Michael retired. I'm sure that Vettel will get hired by a german manufacturer. It might be the Mercedes F1 team, or DTM, or even a new Mercedes Le Mans team. Vettel is a very big name for german motorsport. It would be interesting if he were to race with the Mercedes F1 team, next to Hamilton (now there's a driver that's overrated). Hamilton is not loved by his team (Toto Wolf calls him a cry-baby) and brings very little to the table for the team and for german motorsport. Look at Nico Rosberg, he's a big asset for Mercedes since he's retired from F1. I dont think Vettel will retire from F1, but he will definitely continue to play a major role for german motorsport and for german car manufaturers.
  16. Thank you gentlemen ! Spent a lot of hours fiddeling ... After endless dryfiting, I found the solution to the problem : I moved a hole in the gearbox a bit more to the front : Lousy pic, but it shows the old and new hole (barely) A copper tube will be fitted in the new hole, this will serve as an attachment for a piece that's part of the suspension : I added some tiny parts to the gearbox (triangles, strips, circles, etc) : Made 4 of these with the lathe, they will attach the exhaust tubes to the exhaust : Dryfit : It was a lot of work, but I'm happy that it went well. Sincerely Pascal
  17. I use this glue. Why ? : It doesn't stain the belt material. You can use it to glue plastics, metals, leather, fabric, glass, etc. Apply a very small amount of this glue with a toothpick to both sides of the fabric, let it dry for 30-60 seconds and press the two sides together.
  18. You're a bloody genius Harvey. I very much enjoy going thru your wip and seeing your magnificent masterpiece coming together. Whenever I'm stuck with one of my projects, I study one like this and get inspired to go back to my workbench. Thanks so much far sharing your excellent work. Sincerely Pascal
  19. Nice project. Having stripped quite a few diecast models, I can highly recommend using a paint-stripper-product. Get the strongest one you can and remove all the plastic parts before you use it as it will eat the plastic. Legende miniatures has a large choice of upgrade parts for 1/18 scale cars, cheap PE-sets can be found at Tremonia. Sincerely Pascal
  20. In order to close the bonnet properly, you have to remove the tabs (U-shaped with a hole near the round part of the U) that are on the left and right side of the bonnet opening. But I agree with Cooper645, remove the body from the chassis and cut away the parts that prevent the body from fitting over the chassis. I recommend sending an E-mail to Revell department X, with the photos of the warped body. They might still replace your faulty kit with a new one. It's worth a try. Sincerely Pascal
  21. Update : After months and months of headscratching, I've finally found a way to attach the kidney shaped parts to the gearbox. They need to be fixed to the gearbox at exactly the spot where there's a hole for the screw that attaches the gearbox to the chassis. I've trimmed a plastic part of an old aircraft kit so that it fits in the hole, the copper tube will hold that part in place while I drill the holes : Here I've drilled the first hole and inserted a piece of brass tubing that will hold the kidney shaped part in place : Dryfit : Not a lot of clearance between the diagonal torsion bar and the suspension arms, but the real car looks exactly the same : I'm really happy that I've finally found a solution, now I can move on with this project. Sincerely Pascal
  22. I can only imagine how many hours of head-scratching it took to get those pipes done. Those outer pipes are really hard to get right, they're shaped like a question mark. This would be a nice alternative, but I doubt that you can find these in the correct diameter : Sincerely Pascal
  23. This is an original Ferrari F40 LM exhaust system. Upside down to show you the front end of the pipes : This photo gives you an idea how the pipes bend towards the turbo's : For reference only And of course Michael Sheehan's website has great pics like this one : From Ferraris-online.com, for reference only
  24. The pipes will make a nice difference. Are you going full naked pipes ? : This site has some very nice photos : https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/pa19/paris/lots/r0085-1987-ferrari-f40-lm/740406 Or more a tubi style exhaust ? :
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