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Pascal

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Posts posted by Pascal

  1. That hood looks great Andy. Please be careful using alu cans, the material is very sharp and can cause some really nasty cuts. I use scrap alu from all kinds of "household appliances" : old VCR's, DVD players, etc. The alu is a bit thicker, but also less sharp.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Thanks 1
  2. Here's some photos of my Super 7 :

     

    IMAG0882.jpg

     

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    IMAG0889.jpg


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    I used spraycans for primer, green and clearcoat. The clearcoat gave me a very big run at the rear of the body. The run was sanded and a thin layer of clearcoat was sprayed over it, it's no longer visible :

     

    IMAG0893.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 12
  3. Nice project. Build this kit some 15 years ago. Added some details to the engine compartment, wooden dashboard, bezels made from wire, etc. And, I had a big paint run on the rear of the body. If you're interested, I think I still have the photos.

     

    PS : great idea to finish it with an aluminium body. I would give kitchen foil a try. It comes in many shades and is a lot cheaper then BMF. Check out some of the WIP's of the airplane modellers for inspiration and how to's.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

  4. Nice work.

     

    What zeropaints color did you use for the blue ? The 2-bottle (white and blue) set or one of the other Rothmans blue colors from zeropaints (ZP-1039, ZP-1077).

     

    I need a Rothmans blue to touch up my 1/18 Minichamps 956L, do you know if there's an alternative for Rothmans blue ? Tamiya, Humbrol, etc.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

  5. I have some experience with sanding out drops of clearcoat. I let the clearcoat get really hard (if I use spraycan for the clearcoat, I wait about 4 weeks). Then I use the sanding pads that come with the Novus polishing kit and gradually wet (using plenty of water) sand the run away. The clearcoat will really dull, but it will become shiny again when you use the finest grid of sandpaper (if not use a buffing/polishing compound). Be careful not to damage the lip that surrounds the wheel arch.

    • Thanks 1
  6. On 9/19/2020 at 1:18 AM, nick said:

    Stand today...

     

    50356782033_e75525981b_h.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

    Hi Nick,

     

    I took a good look at this photo. What's the white thing that's on the left of the Ferrari emblem on the plenum ? Is that a piece of frame from the printing process ?

     

    Is it possible to get the Magneti Marelli emblem sharper detailed ? It's looks a bit of when compared with the numbers on the block.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

  7. Progress is very slow because - despite all models being Bburago's - there are quite a few tiny differences between each model. So every part that I make, has to be tailored to a specific model.

     

    Used some plasticard to enlarge a part of the body :

     

    47bca5eeb85438de7edf134a5b058626.jpg

     

    With some plastic strips and putty, I made the top of the beams round, needs a bit more sanding :

     

    f92b86eaf758fa532b917e6ce4b22ce7.jpg

     

     Here's my handmade frame, every frame is a bit wider, lower or higher depending on which model it will be fixed to:

     

    35258ed27cc31e7f91bd195dbf796396.jpg

     

    45e5c469e5b7e444d525950774c4235e.jpg

     

    451cc792883b7573d090a9b605f98d57.jpg

     

    Used CA and a steel nail to beef up the structure :

     

    11ddc553e4ecd7098bf885b0269c9196.jpg

     

    Dryfit. I'm glad I ordered the letters A (they are made with a CNC millingmachine) a bit too tall, now I can sink them into the beams to get a strong bond :

     

    e704bc5038776684c8516aebd1b7f3f5.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  8. A bit late, but this photo might still be handy for the shape of the gasket  :

     

    spacer.png

     

    Underside of the block :

     

    spacer.png

     

    Gearbox from an unusual angle :

     

    spacer.png

     

    Angles and curves :

     

    spacer.png

     

    Water cooling pipe attachment :

     

    spacer.png

     

    Pulley and connectors :

     

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    Will look for more oil pipe photos this afternoon.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

  9. On 9/4/2020 at 4:29 PM, nick said:

    Hi Pascal,

                  I can't find a single useful image of an F40 oil Pan, I've done as much as I can based on the Pocher item and snippets from various angles in many photos, and come up with this:-

     

    50305160102_81a5648233_h.jpg

     

    I know a fairly fat pipe emerges from the angled section as I have guessed at, but I have no real idea what this looks like, I don't suppose that anywhere in your collection that you have any sort of clue to what this looks like? much appreciated if you could dig something out now I'm on the home staright!

     

    Regards,

     

    Nick

    Hi Nick,

     

    This is how Autograph made the pipe :

     

    spacer.png

     

    And this is the only photo that I've found sofar :

     

    spacer.png

     

    I'll look at the DVD tomorrow and see if I can take some more screenshots.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

  10. I applied a lot of putty to the F-40's, while the putty is hardening I did some work on this 250 Bertone.

     

    The way this model is designed, the windows are never gonna fit properly : you have to glue a PE border to the clear plastic and glue that to the body. No way this is gonna give a good result.

     

    So after much head scratching I came up with a solution that might work : I'll use a 2 x 2 mm plastic H-profile that I will glue to the body. This will replace the PE border and give the clear plastic something to fit into (at least that's the theory) :

     

    3f8a27d95a272984b4f25415b3b14d03.jpg

     

    I started by removing the resin A-pilar :

     

    847310cb1bd41ca8e3e24f92208688f6.jpg

     

    And replaced this with a strip of brass :

     

    c224002f348b2dbac041f5dc660bc0dc.jpg

     

    Made a trench in the inside of the body so that it can be fixed securely :

     

    fa96853ebc9648bd97fb8ecea7b086f2.jpg

     

    Dryfit with the side windows, yes we might be on to something :

     

    ec95c820f2b24ba7028b69093f095900.jpg

     

    I'll keep the PE border for the side windows, the H-profile will be used for the windscreen and rear window, dryfit :

     

    ad7c939750f864e6f6028d750d152276.jpg

     

    596ada5ae077abd65f50ea3e866fa4b1.jpg

     

    It will take a lot of work to carve a little ledge in the resin for the H-profile to be glued to. This ledge has to be about 0,5 mm wider then the H-profile because I'm thinking of gluing a 0,5 mm black cable on the outside of the H-profile. We'll see if that works.

    Did some work on the interior, a couple more parts and this will be done :

     

    6d7994d9fa1f66f4b53d8f558e7bac2c.jpg

     

    I made it as strong as possible so I can be pressed into the body, dryfit :

     

    5a114fd23e39b348389ccf0f758e9ead.jpg

     

    Looking pretty good :

     

    e7f9c215058ba04b6a3f0b43c498bf77.jpg

     

    55bee2345b6c5678a0d7f1b2f3e98636.jpg

     

    Sincerely

    Pascal

    • Like 7
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