Pascal
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Posts posted by Pascal
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Thx for the interest mate.
Alas no. Ran into problems trying to make some really tiny parts for the rear suspension / gearbox attachment. Will put the 333SP back on the bench when the Moby Dick is finished.
Sincerely
Pascal
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One day I'm gonna buy a 1/12 MFH kit, one day, some day...
Looking very good sofar. These 2 pics are from the 1961 Belgian grand prix :
For reference purpose only
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Update :
I used Humbrol 106 Ocean Grey applied with a sponge and a black spraycan. The grey was sanded to remove the gloss, the black received a matt coat and was then polished to give it a satin look. I was going for a "used" interior, quite happy with the result. The tubes for the radiators are dryfitted :
Last photo shows that I need to touch up the black on the left side. Next step will be the fitting of the tubes that form the frame.
Sincerely
Pascal
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The Centauria/Panini issues that have the seat are number 2 (driver's seat) and 34 (passenger's seat).
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There's 2 ways that I use to get individual item of patchwork kits. You can order separate issues, or you can buy individual items from sites like Ebay.
I bought quite a few parts on Ebay from the Panini 1/10 scale Ferrari Enzo. They will be used to detail my Enzo from MJX/RC that I bought years ago.
Sincerely
Pascal
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That's not a workshop, it's a treasure cove.
Nice pics and nice project. Good luck with this beauty.
Sincerely
Pascal
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Superb result, fantastic work.
Sincerely
Pascal
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Nice project and nice work.
Some inspiration :
For reference purpose only
Sincerely
Pascal
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WOW, that looks absolutely stunning. When I looked at the photos, I was thinking : "Nice reference photos. When is he gonna show photos of the scale model ?".
Then I realized that ALL the photos are of your finished model.
Incredible work, my hat's off to you sir.
Sincerely
Pascal
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Gorgeous ! Love the blue / beige combo.
Good job.
Sincerely
Pascal
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This kit fought you all the way John, but you turned it into a real beautie. Congratz !
Sincerely
Pascal
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There are a few more alternatives like Micro Plating Powder :
Or the Polishing Powders by Ushi Van Der Rosten :
https://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/polishing-powders-metallic-pigments/
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Thx mates !
Something was way off, but I couldn't put my finger on it. With the help of some reference photos, I finally found the problem and it's a big one.
The sides of the interior are way to wide :
I used the Solido parts as a guide, but those are about double as wide as on the real car :
If I paint these sides black, it will give the model a wrong look. The outer part of the sides need to be white like the body :
This will require some major surgery by cutting the sides in half :
The outer part will be glued to the inside of the body. I hope I can get the right shade of white :
It still won't be perfect, but it will look at look better - fingers crossed - when done.
Sincerely
Pascal
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Small update ,but a major leap towards saving this model from last friday's tragedy.
In order to fit the new interior, I had to remove almost 5 mm of plastic from the inside of the wheel wells :
The tubes (aluminium wire from the flower shop) have had their yellow coating removed. Dryfit in the new interior :
Dryfit with some of the scratchbuild / modified parts :
I used self adhesive felt to cover the inside of the seat :
Colored the selfadhesive bandage black, looks a bit rough on this macro photo, with the naked eye it looks just fine :
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That's a very nice Ferrari, great work. Nice save with the windows.
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Nice work John. Can you bend the roof in the correct shape ? Or does that require more surgery ?
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@ Codger : The tubes are not brass, they are aluminium wires bought in a flower shop. The way that I've build the tube/wire frame, doesn't allow soldering because each tube/wire needs to be inserted from the sides or the back of the plastic floorboard. On second thought, I'm gonna use CA glue in stead of JB weld, because virtually none of the joints will be visible.
So, friday was a total disaster...
But I've worked a lot of hours during the past 3 days, this is the result sofar :
Strange how this photo makes it all look bent and crooked :
Started making the fire extinguishers :
Used some self-adhesive bandage to wrap around the seat :
When the bandage will be painted black it will look just like the rough surface on the seat of the real car :
Sincerely
Pascal
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When Murphy strikes, he strikes hard !
If you put a primed piece of plastic (in this case the interior in an oven, you get a nice hard painted finish.
BUT, if your oven turns out to be a grill (heating tubes bottom and top side), you get a completely deformed piece of plastic :
I asked Solido if I could buy a replacement part, guess what the answer was...
It's a shame that so many diecast companies refuse to help their customers. I can buy nearly every single sprue from Tamiya, even if they have to ship it from Japan.
Ah well, If there's 1 thing that I have, it's patience. So I will painstakingly rebuild the interior from scratch and use a couple of deformed parts that can be salvaged.
Before it gets better, it needs to get worse. After some breaking and cutting apart, this is what I have to start with :
Stay tuned, things will get better soon...
Sincerely
Pascal
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There you go : http://build-threads.com/build-threads/ferrari-f40-lm-restoration/
PS : Would be nice to get an answer to the PM's I send you...
Sincerely
Pascal
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Thx guys !
Spend a couple of hours fiddling with 2mm alu tubes. Just need to add all the smaller ones. Dryfit :
Where the 2 tubes cross, I filed halfway thru each tube, when they will be glued together the join should be good :
Added the 2 diagonal tubes, these will hold the gearshifter :
I will sand the yellow coating from the tubes and make some adjustments so that they fit better. Will use JB Cold Weld to glue them, that will - hopefully - allow me to form some weldspots between the tubes while the glue is drying.Sincerely
Pascal-
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Done a lot of work on this project the last couple of days. Endless measuring, sanding, dryfitting, sanding, etc. The modified firewall is finally glued in place :
Quite complicated angles to make, the shiny spots are leftover from the Tamiya ultra thin glue :
Looks very dirty with all the dust from the sanding. After a wash tonight, primer will go on tomorrow :
Dryfit of the aluminium tubes going from the radiator to the engine. The right side will get 2 of these as well :
The floorboard was sanded. Reference photo's show none of the details that Solido made on the floorboard. I will add aluiminium tubes to the floorboard to form the chassis :
Before :
After :
Lowered the front of the model by sanding 2 mm from the plastic tubes that are part of the front suspension :
Before :
After :
There's still a couple of mm's of space between the tire and the mudguard in case the front needs to be lowered a bit more.
Sincerely
Pascal-
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Another "blitz-project". I was very happy when I saw that Solido made this car, for €45 I think it's great value for money.
Foto's from CK-modelcars were I bought the model :
The last 2 photos show the wheelcovers that look more like clogwheels from a clock. I used a bolt and nut to hold the wheelcovers and removed the teeth with my lathe, I also made the cover a lot thinner. After a coat of primer and Tamiya X7, the covers were attached to the painted wheels (done with a Tamiya paint marker) :
The cockpit will get most of the work. I removed a big piece of plastic to make room for the drivers feet :
But I ran into these big blocks. They are part of the front suspension and have to be removed to make room for the extended floorboard. Out came the Dremel :
Had to go all the way thru the bottom to clear enough space :
First Idea was to improve this part :
Drilled some holes to remove the part between the tubes :
But then I decided to make everything from scratch, that will allow me to add the missing tubes. The roll cage needs some mods too. The upper tubes in this picture dont look like this on the real car :
This plastic tube is also part of the roll cage on the real car. It will be sanded down and replaced with alu tubing :
The front tubes of the roll cage are supposed to be the same size (like the one on the right). I have no idea why Solido made them like this. Will be fixed with alu tubing :
These tubes on the floorboard will be removed :
This was my first attempt to modify the area behind the seats. Reference photos of this area are hard to find :
Then I found the WIP by Scratchbuilt. He made this car in 1/8 scale from scratch, his build log has some very nice pics :
The big hump is being reshaped :
And slowly the firewall is taking shape :
There's a lot more work then I thought, but I 'm still very happy with this model.Sincerely
Pascal
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Nice to see someone build this here on BM. I took a long look at this kit, but decided it's not for me. It's a very detailed kit, but a lot of the parts are simplified (because it's a snap / screw kit) or just plain wrong. I'm sure it can be modified into a very impressive model, but that will require a lot of work (for me at least).
I think I'm gonna order a couple of parts from Centauria to build my Pocher F-40's, like the seats, rear window, etc.
Don(t know how far you want to go with this build, but removing some seams here and there, glueing/puttying/sanding and painting will improve the kit a lot.
Best of luck with this project.
Sincerely
Pascal
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I'm looking at 3 alternatives to detail the engine compartment of my 956's :
1. Haynes Porsche 956 & 962 Owners' Workshop Manual.
2. Speed Details #4 "956 Engines"
3. Scale Motorsport Porsche 956 Up Close & Mechanical.
I'm thinking the third one might be the best option. Does anyone have these references and which one do you prefer ?
Sincerely
Pascal
Solido 1/18 Porsche 935/78 Moby Dick
in Work In Progress - Vehicles
Posted
Update.
I forgot to show the photo's that i took right before the floorboard got it's colors. These show the result of lots of sanding :
The frame has been glued to the floorboard. The 2 diagonal tubes are from a different type of aluminium because they are a lot shinier on the real car :
The seat has been gleud to it's frame, then the frame was glued to the rails. I had to remove about 4 mm on each side of the seat, so that it will fit in the cockpit :
The pedalbox was completely rebuild. The part on the left was scratchbuild and has 11 parts :
The rectangular strip with the diagonal part was also scratchbuild :
Dryfit. The pedalbox sits to high, will be fixed before it's glued to the floorboard :
The gauges on the dashboard received a tiny circles of transparent plastic, these were sealed with Parket + :
The part with the 5 gauges will be sanded flat from the rear and the grey decal will be removed :
Sincerely
Pascal