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Everything posted by Pascal

  1. I would use gold coloured adhesive tape, or gold coloured foil (like kitchen foil). If you have a silouette cutter, you can design and cut the logo's you want and put them on top of the tape/foil.
  2. You called me Mr. C ? The tank wasn't filled with oxygen, but with "medical air". Medical air is sort of like ambient air and less volatile than pure oxygen. The tank was introduced in the late 70's, because accident investigators believed that not fires but lack of air killed drivers (or caused severe lung injuries like the Lauda accident). The idea was to let the driver breathe fresh air while he was waiting to be rescued from his burning vehicle. Some driver had helmets in which they could insert the tube from the medical air bottle, others had a kind of "skirt" on the underside of the helmet, the tube could be pushed underneath that skirt. The air was released from the medical air tank when the fire extinguisher system activated. After a few seasons, it was abandoned because of increased safety regulations. People like Sid Watkins played a major role in improving safety for F1 drivers. Sincerely Pascal
  3. Ron, it's like looking at a real car being assembled. So precise, so clean, what an outstanding piece of art. My hat's off to you sir. Sincerely Pascal
  4. First class job on the louvres, they look great ! Are you gonna paint the red over the louvres ? I think the decals might be to small with those louvres installed. Sincerely Pascal
  5. Some time ago, there was a WIP topic where someone explained in detail how to weather an engine / gearbox with oil paints. I can't remember the name of that WIP, can somebody provide a link ? Sincerely Pascal
  6. Update. I forgot to show the photo's that i took right before the floorboard got it's colors. These show the result of lots of sanding : The frame has been glued to the floorboard. The 2 diagonal tubes are from a different type of aluminium because they are a lot shinier on the real car : The seat has been gleud to it's frame, then the frame was glued to the rails. I had to remove about 4 mm on each side of the seat, so that it will fit in the cockpit : The pedalbox was completely rebuild. The part on the left was scratchbuild and has 11 parts : The rectangular strip with the diagonal part was also scratchbuild : Dryfit. The pedalbox sits to high, will be fixed before it's glued to the floorboard : The gauges on the dashboard received a tiny circles of transparent plastic, these were sealed with Parket + : The part with the 5 gauges will be sanded flat from the rear and the grey decal will be removed : Sincerely Pascal
  7. Thx for the interest mate. Alas no. Ran into problems trying to make some really tiny parts for the rear suspension / gearbox attachment. Will put the 333SP back on the bench when the Moby Dick is finished. Sincerely Pascal
  8. One day I'm gonna buy a 1/12 MFH kit, one day, some day... Looking very good sofar. These 2 pics are from the 1961 Belgian grand prix : For reference purpose only
  9. Update : I used Humbrol 106 Ocean Grey applied with a sponge and a black spraycan. The grey was sanded to remove the gloss, the black received a matt coat and was then polished to give it a satin look. I was going for a "used" interior, quite happy with the result. The tubes for the radiators are dryfitted : Last photo shows that I need to touch up the black on the left side. Next step will be the fitting of the tubes that form the frame. Sincerely Pascal
  10. The Centauria/Panini issues that have the seat are number 2 (driver's seat) and 34 (passenger's seat).
  11. There's 2 ways that I use to get individual item of patchwork kits. You can order separate issues, or you can buy individual items from sites like Ebay. I bought quite a few parts on Ebay from the Panini 1/10 scale Ferrari Enzo. They will be used to detail my Enzo from MJX/RC that I bought years ago. Sincerely Pascal
  12. That's not a workshop, it's a treasure cove. Nice pics and nice project. Good luck with this beauty. Sincerely Pascal
  13. Nice project and nice work. Some inspiration : For reference purpose only Sincerely Pascal
  14. WOW, that looks absolutely stunning. When I looked at the photos, I was thinking : "Nice reference photos. When is he gonna show photos of the scale model ?". Then I realized that ALL the photos are of your finished model. Incredible work, my hat's off to you sir. Sincerely Pascal
  15. Gorgeous ! Love the blue / beige combo. Good job. Sincerely Pascal
  16. This kit fought you all the way John, but you turned it into a real beautie. Congratz ! Sincerely Pascal
  17. There are a few more alternatives like Micro Plating Powder : Or the Polishing Powders by Ushi Van Der Rosten : https://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/polishing-powders-metallic-pigments/
  18. Thx mates ! Something was way off, but I couldn't put my finger on it. With the help of some reference photos, I finally found the problem and it's a big one. The sides of the interior are way to wide : I used the Solido parts as a guide, but those are about double as wide as on the real car : If I paint these sides black, it will give the model a wrong look. The outer part of the sides need to be white like the body : This will require some major surgery by cutting the sides in half : The outer part will be glued to the inside of the body. I hope I can get the right shade of white : It still won't be perfect, but it will look at look better - fingers crossed - when done. Sincerely Pascal
  19. Small update ,but a major leap towards saving this model from last friday's tragedy. In order to fit the new interior, I had to remove almost 5 mm of plastic from the inside of the wheel wells : The tubes (aluminium wire from the flower shop) have had their yellow coating removed. Dryfit in the new interior : Dryfit with some of the scratchbuild / modified parts : I used self adhesive felt to cover the inside of the seat : Colored the selfadhesive bandage black, looks a bit rough on this macro photo, with the naked eye it looks just fine :
  20. That's a very nice Ferrari, great work. Nice save with the windows.
  21. Nice work John. Can you bend the roof in the correct shape ? Or does that require more surgery ?
  22. @ Codger : The tubes are not brass, they are aluminium wires bought in a flower shop. The way that I've build the tube/wire frame, doesn't allow soldering because each tube/wire needs to be inserted from the sides or the back of the plastic floorboard. On second thought, I'm gonna use CA glue in stead of JB weld, because virtually none of the joints will be visible. So, friday was a total disaster... But I've worked a lot of hours during the past 3 days, this is the result sofar : Strange how this photo makes it all look bent and crooked : Started making the fire extinguishers : Used some self-adhesive bandage to wrap around the seat : When the bandage will be painted black it will look just like the rough surface on the seat of the real car : Sincerely Pascal
  23. When Murphy strikes, he strikes hard ! If you put a primed piece of plastic (in this case the interior in an oven, you get a nice hard painted finish. BUT, if your oven turns out to be a grill (heating tubes bottom and top side), you get a completely deformed piece of plastic : I asked Solido if I could buy a replacement part, guess what the answer was... It's a shame that so many diecast companies refuse to help their customers. I can buy nearly every single sprue from Tamiya, even if they have to ship it from Japan. Ah well, If there's 1 thing that I have, it's patience. So I will painstakingly rebuild the interior from scratch and use a couple of deformed parts that can be salvaged. Before it gets better, it needs to get worse. After some breaking and cutting apart, this is what I have to start with : Stay tuned, things will get better soon... Sincerely Pascal
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