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Pascal

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Posts posted by Pascal

  1. Thx for the replies.

     

    Mr. C, I hope it won't delay my Porsche/Ferrari projects. Progress on this Alpine will be slow, because I've only just started searching for reference-material.

     

    But still, I made some progress. I succeeded in taking apart the entire model. Had to cut the glass parts in two, to remove them from the body :

     

    1cf1186f0ef21230e65eb3f00ac47da5.jpg

     

    The hinges could use some extra details :

     

    64492236210beb66f4d9f854d2d4818f.jpg

     

    7b44bcb9a61bfe248b1c6b0b6e687d8f.jpg

     

    But modifying these will prevent the lids from opening. Not sure yet if I want to do that.

     

    I don't want to respray the body, because it looks really nice. Will give it a couple of coats of clearcoat and polish it to a "Concours d'élégance" finish.

     

    The only flaws are these vertical moulds lines, not worth respraying the entire body IMO :

     

    c7c49ca1f66bf3e2c4966c0e44bed290.jpg

     

    The brake discs are a bit odd. The side that's visible is flat (like the 1/1 car) :

     

    053ad6cf59b4e464cf1ea8d70f3627df.jpg

     

    The other side has these holes :

     

    f0bf0c841dd301e5811bfc6ee46e093f.jpg

     

    I haven't removed the brake discs yet, because they are mounted in typical Bburago fashion. If you pull them from the plastic tabs, they'll never fit properly again.

     

    The brake discs have a diameter of about 19mm, might make new one with the lathe so I can salvage the plastic ones for another model.

     

    Plenty of things to think about. Meanwhile here's a nice video of a restoration. My model is also a 1600 S :

     

     

     

     

    Sincerely

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  2. After seeing the wonderful builds of the Tamiya 1/24 Alpine's, I decided to make one myself.

     

    Not the 1/24 Tamiya kit, but this 1/16 diecast model made by Bburago quite a few years ago.

     

    Got this beauty for the great price of € 20 :

     

    e937912541083b1e0b2d78a5bf7ff5c0.jpg

     

    e0197af5451bf56abe2d5ee7ec2d2e95.jpg

     

    3c80ef0bdbfe17f399921ed025600fcf.jpg

     

    beeb96ee431a72d2e16fac8b1aa0b335.jpg

     

    Typically for Bburago are the opening doors, engine compartment and spare tyre compartment :

     

    495dd7ac6eee82cc7606685492b09048.jpg

     

    Also typically Bburago is that not a single drop of glued is used, makes taking it apart a lot easier :

     

    7a286d68bb82d8d5dfed99b2afd7bc2d.jpg

     

    The complete interior :

     

    f3af33cc1d7a26fc528882997acbb0a4.jpg

     

    7dfa2303d46c49c49c212d09516aa454.jpg

     

    1feb2ce3844d9b75fadfc555240bd461.jpg

     

    Excellent base model to start with.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 5
  3. I knew I had heard of a similar problem, but it was a long time ago. Finally I remembered :

     

    About 30 years ago, I worked at a factory that made plastic faceted mirrors (used in motion-detection devices, the dectection beam "looks" into those mirrors to scan for movement) that were chromed or aluminized at another factory.

     

    I remember that after a few months we received a call from that other company, telling us that all workers had to wear gloves when handling the plastic mirrors (before they were chromed). They told us that some regulation stopped them from using a chemical that they used in the chroming process.

     

    Before that, fingerprints and things like dust were not a problem. But because they had to change the chemical, any contamination on the plastic was a NO GO.

     

    If your plastic wings were chromed before 1993, it's very possible that a same kind of chemical was used by Tamiya in the chroming process. What that chemical does is basically "eat" any grease and dirt, and it produces an ideal surface for the chrome to stick to, by leaving a sort of "film" or coating on the plastic.

     

    When that chemical was used on plastic, it was nearly impossible to remove it (at least in 1993) because no matter what they did the chemical kept sweating through any coating put on the plastic. A lot of cleaning products (like bleach) reacted with the chemical, and basically ruined the plastic surface for later treatment.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 3
  4. Indeed great that you found a way to solve the problem. Hadn't thought about using a ultrasonic cleaner, but it clearly works well.

     

    Can you ask your neighbour what kind of fluid he uses in his ultrasonic cleaner ?

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 1
  5. Very nice work !

     

    For the tubing : I would use copper wire. A large diameter for the core and a small diameter that you wrap around the core. Secure both ends with a drop of CA glue. The tubing remains flexible, so you can bend it into any shape you want.

     

    Or you can go for this type of tubing. I would make that sort of tubing by wrapping very small strips of tape around a copper core.   :

     

     

     

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 1
  6. I think that the gloss/yellowish residue - leftover from the chrome removal - has (and still is) reacted with the bleach.  This reaction causes the plastic to "sweat", and that gives you the result you see when you put on primer and the silver top coat.

    To stop the sweating of the plastic, I would try soaking the parts in brake fluid. Try it on a piece of chrome sprue first, the brake fluid should be able to remove the leftover residue and bleach from the chrome removal.

    • Like 2
  7. Wheel covers, part 2.

     

    Wasn't happy with the first modification, so I went a bit further. These are the covers for the rear wheels. Used the bolt to fix them in the chuck of my drill, about 1 mm of plastic was scraped off. (didn't use the lathe cause I don't want to put my fingers that close to the lathe chuck) :

     

    1d7111ca5efde03d5fd9be50d665f888.jpg

     

    The ring was removed from the backside :

     

    da5888e68648c7ad32d8d358d14a3753.jpg

     

    Before :

     

    f904130c8d315573797cdcf51da35c5d.jpg

     

    And after. Not there yet, still have to remove some plastic from the inside of the wheel, so that the cover can sit deeper inside the wheel :

     

    b504e3a5cc11b7184c366628f309fb9b.jpg

     

    These are the covers for the front wheels. The modified cover is a lot thinner and the diameter is smaller  :

     

    e103a4107c0370c0893ad30de8101cd3.jpg

     

    50242786b33fd142a7bfd0ff7db26d1e.jpg

     

    To get the cover to sit deeper inside the wheels, I removed some plastic and filed the spokes one-by-one to about half the original size. A VERY therapeutic job ! (later on I'll add a new wheelnut and a ring with the bolts) :

     

    23e1c5e41368697431d9e397df2df287.jpg

     

    Before :

     

    fb4a0557936ebd82f002eba26d227ad2.jpg

     

    Afer :

     

    c2e9fa837959700963b3a33dce702402.jpg

     

    Hope to do the other 2 tomorrow. It took about 3 hours to modify the first 2.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 2
  8. This model keeps fighting me all the way, but here's a little progress :

     

    The dashboard looked like this :

     

    e843edea01a10c32833b802ff16d4480.jpg

     

    Solido added sidewalls to the center console these were removed and some circles were added to the back of the dials :

     

    39f7db40c81ab78006ea2fd24eddc880.jpg

     

    8a06f70fb58c1556abcfe9a8ec0a59a6.jpg

     

    A lot of work goes into the modification of the body. Before :

     

    af1e5f377cda50a399e2506564058188.jpg

     

    And after. I will need to add a couple more layers of white paint, then polish it :

     

    f7160ecb81142c2c870b1b8aa2941fa7.jpg

     

    Big difference between the modified and the un-modified side :

     

    22cf01775090ab06d8389c4e4500af38.jpg

     

    Solido put a grey circle around the number on the doors. This was not on the 1/1 car, so these were removed with a knife and a toothpick. The photo shows that I started on the right side  :

     

    fb75aa55b481114d7f630fbe2ed78ff8.jpg

     

    The glass covers for the headlights were glued badly to the body. The covers also have some very ugly square pegs :

     

    4ee820ce6f15fced5e9f3e96cc4e3d4b.jpg

     

    93196709c9fab9d5e4f835659b5f79c5.jpg

     

    I removed the pegs and the CA-glue with sandpaper, the one on the left has been polished :

     

    2807d8d83d2314d89a4c80492b1c86a2.jpg

     

    The glass cover fit very poorly because the inner parts are to big. The one on the left has been sanded to the correct size, quite a bit of plastic has been removed ;

     

    d3ce3151860378ffd70680939fcd7555.jpg

     

    2cb5482c4a3c024783046b3e22a53f48.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  9. On 5/13/2021 at 9:18 PM, Codger said:

    Can any Tifosi here explain to me, the whole 'oxygen bottle for driver' business on the 1:1 which Ron has painfully reproduced here?

    1. I would hate to drive anything at 160+ MPH with a compressed volatile gas tank inches from my head. (Held on by straps!).

    2. Said tank is also in proximity to a tank (maybe a bladder?) of race fuel. Ensuring a bigger KABOOM.

    3. If there is a wreck, the driver would need extrication, rather than oxygen I would think.

    Am I just a worry wart?? :mental:

     

     

    You called me Mr. C ? :)

     

    The tank wasn't filled with oxygen, but with "medical air". Medical air is sort of like ambient air and less volatile than pure oxygen. The tank was introduced in the late 70's, because accident investigators believed that not fires but lack of air killed drivers (or caused severe lung injuries like the Lauda accident). The idea was to let the driver breathe fresh air while he was waiting to be rescued from his burning vehicle. Some driver had helmets in which they could insert the tube from the medical air bottle, others had a kind of "skirt" on the underside of the helmet, the tube could be pushed underneath that skirt. The air was released from the medical air tank when the fire extinguisher system activated. After a few seasons, it was abandoned because of increased safety regulations. People like Sid Watkins played a major role in improving safety for F1 drivers.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 1
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