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Pascal

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Everything posted by Pascal

  1. Thx guys Just when I thought that things couldn't get any crazier..... I wasn't happy with the shocks that I made earlier : It's a very pretty shock, but the ones on the real 333 SP are different : So I fired up my lathe and made this out of a piece of brass rod. The hole in the middle is drilled off-center, that's because the eye bolts that I'm using are also off-center. With both parts being off-center, I can turn them untill they are dead-center : These are the parts that I made, these are for 1 shock : The only thing missing are the rings that have 6 tiny blocks (with a hole in each block), but I'm not sure if I'm able to make these as they are very, VERY small. Sincerely Pascal
  2. Hi Rich, You might want to fill in these too, they're not on a real F40 engine : The entire rectangular openings inside the red squares need to be filled. All the way to the top where the oval pieces are. The cutouts in the oval pieces are also not on the real engine.
  3. Very nice Alan, great work. Sincerely Pascal
  4. The first 50 cars produced had sliding Lexan windows. Cars produced later on were fitted with wind down windows. There were 2 main reasons for this : 1. The F40 was designed as a race car, the Lexan windows saved weight. 2. Customers were not happy with the Lexan windows. The F40 has no airconditioning and it got very hot in the cockpit.
  5. As things get more and more complicated, the time between updates gets a lot bigger. This is were I was last time around : And after I added a few more details : A dryfit : Couple of detail shots : Next phase is the fitting of the shocks. The shocks are connected to this kidney shaped triangle. The black tube will be fitted to the suspension arms : This side will be fitted to the arms : A dryfit : Some reference material : The shocks that I made earlier are a bit to long, they will be shortened by a few millimeters : Sincerely Pascal
  6. Nice work Wayne. I noticed something in this picture : Lets say each side has a part of the frame that looks like the letter A. The horizontal bar (that has the brackets with the bolts and nuts) of the letter A, needs to be parallel with the bottom large part of the frame. I hope this picture will explain what I mean : I would wait a bit longer to spray the body in the final color, as you have lots of dryfitting ahead of you with the window frames, door locks, mirrors, etc. @ Rich : Nice progress on the gearbox Rich. There's a couple of plastic studs on both sides of the gearbox that also have bolts and small details on them on the real engine. It's not mentioned in the instructions of the transkit, but It adds a little bit more detail : http://www.carbuildindex.com/37647/ferrari-f40-engine-and-gearbox-for-sale/ @ Roy Hard to tell with just a picture of the front of both cars, but my guess is that the F40 in the first photo is an early production one, the F40 on the second photo is a late production version. The early production F40 had small sliding side windows, the late production had full size windows that could be lowered with a handle. Sincerely Pascal
  7. Update : Modification in 3 steps. Step 1 : Step 2 : Step 3 : The plasticard triangles become very fragile after the shaping, they will be reinforced with CA and flour. Most of the work that I've done involves removing unwanted metal and filling gaps and holes. First one is this tube that holds the bonnet in place : This was removed with my Dremel and a coat of putty was applied to show where further sanding is needed. The damaged to the louvers will be repaired : The rear spoiler has a hole on both sides : This was filled with CA and flour and sanded. The rectangular holes are for the extra light for the american version of the F40 : The inside of the spoiler has a lot of unwanted metal : This was sanded down (this is the spoiler of the GT version , that's why the central part with the louvers has been cut out) : The central part of the body received a couple of plastic strips : This will help the central part and cockpit adhere to the chassis : This little brass tube will fit into a hole that I drilled in the lower part of the body : The bonnet also has holes on both sides : These were filled with a piece of plasticard : Glued with CA and flour and sanded to shape : Finally the rear spoiler received some plastic strips to help the bonnet align with the spoiler : The plastic strip needs some more work to get it right. Hopefully it will help to get a good fit between the rear spoiler and the bonnet. If not, tiny magnets will be fitted into the rear spoiler. Please feel free to comment. Sincerely Pascal
  8. Wayne have you seen this ? Chris Harris puts the pedal to the metal in both the F40 and the F50. This clip has some nice closeups and some magnificent driving :
  9. Yes, that Tamiya one sure looks like a nice model, but at that price it a NO for me This 288 GTO clip has some very nice engine sounds and some INSANE driving :
  10. Nice work on this beautiful Ferrari. Yes, the 288 GTO was derived from the 308/328 models. It's a bit overshadowed by the F40, but it's one of the last Ferrari models that were build while Enzo was alive. I've been fortunate to see a couple of them in real live (even sat in one !). The lines and curves of the 288 are absolutely stunning. I had high hopes that Pocher would produce a 1/8 scale kit, but unfortunately they never did. Maybe one day Hornby will realize that producing the Pocher F40 IS the smart thing to do.
  11. The radiator is a little thin, but when the sleeve that connects it to the body will be fitted, it wont be that visible : Here's a pic from Ton's WIP, the front end of the radiator is just visible : The radiator has almost the same thickness as its metal frame.
  12. Nice ! Build one of these ages ago. The 1/1 Dinos have become real collectors items in recent years.
  13. If you want to build an LM (or GT or GTE), you're in for a ton of work. It would also mean that a lot of the parts from the transkit can't be used. There was a Autograph / Scaleautoworks F40LM transkit : http://www.scaleautoworks.com/F40LM.htm But I've never seen that transkit in real live, and the pictures on the website show that it doesn't have all the parts to build a true LM. There is another way, you can go for an F40 that has an LM "look". Like this one : https://startinggrid.org/2011/08/29/silver-ferrari-f40-lm/ It's not a true LM (has a standard interior, suspension; etc.) but it has extras that make it look like an LM. My 2 cents : if you want to build an LM : get yourself a cheap 1/18 scale Bburago F40 and modify it with parts from tremonia.org I'm building a couple of those (1 will become the silver F40 pictured above), it's very hard to find good reference pics of the same LM, and every LM has mods added by the team / owner. Sincerely Pascal
  14. Thank you ! BIG update : The area in front of the dashboard and between the wheels is unique for the Beurlys. It will be made from plasticard : Reference pic : Cover for the door hinges : More work on the brass suspension : The piece of acylic will become the sidewall of the radiator-box. As you can see, it has a complex shape : More plasticard : And again more plastic of the Pocher frame was removed : Slowly things start to take shape : Dryfit with the sidewalls : These were to small so I enlarged them : Sincerely Pascal PS : Feel free to comment
  15. Nice progress. You kept the diagonal square plastic tubes that run left and right of the radiator. You might want to cut the plastic tubes off and replace them with round tubes. The tubes on the European F40 (for which the transkit is made) are different then the US F40 :
  16. Thx keefr22, it took me quite a while to get the right diameter and the correct angle of those brass tubes.
  17. Nice job on the cooling vents. Here's some reference pics : As you can see the openings are quite big.
  18. The front suspension will be scratchbuild. In order to fit the parts, more plastic was removed from the frame : A dryfit with the brass tubes : Cut to size and soldered together. I will shape the solder later with a jewelers file : These tubes won't be glued to the chassis until the build is almost complete. Till then they are removable : Sincerely Pascal
  19. Very nice work and a clever way to assemble the brake discs. I'm not sure they're on all F-40's, but I've seen hex nuts where Autograph has put the screws.
  20. Thx. Yes, that sounds right. Only cut the slit out. The original Pocher gearbox and engine need a lot of modification. First step : The part in the middle is not on the Hewland gearbox of the 1/1 Beurlys : To fix the gearbox and engine to the back of the cockpit / firewall and to give some strength to the front suspension a metal rod will run through the entire length of the chassis : The tunnel has been widened and hollowed out : So that it covers the metal rod : Fitted a piece of wood inside the engine block and drilled a hole in it to accept the metal rod : The part between the engine and gearbox will be made out of different layers of plastic : All parts fixed together on the metal rod :
  21. Glued the acrylic pieces in place, used a few pieces of Lego as spacers : Two pieces cut from plasticard : Will complete the widening of the interior : More plasticard to box in the new sidewalls : I used a metal rod to hold the side pods of the body together (without the roof and dashboard the pods have become 2 pieces) : More plasticard and a dryfit of the modified dashboard :
  22. Thx guys. The sidewalls of the Pocher interior are to narrow. Here's how I made them wider. Cardboard templates : Used the template to cut a piece of acrylic : Temporary firewall : Acrylic part as a dryfit :
  23. Thx guys, it's been way to long. Then it was time to look at the doors. A little plasticard here and there : Reference pic : Removed some metal from the inside of the doors : Modified the plastic inserts : Then I took my dremel and things got serious. Before : After : Modified the door hinges : And the dashboard : Back to the doors. Kevlar stickers with a coat of Tamiya smoke to give the stickers a "used look" : Even 1/8 scale needs some tiny details : More stickers : Inserts glued to the doors : I filled the gaps with plasticard, needs a lot of sanding : The holes are for the doors locks, these will be made from aluminium sheet : Sincerely Pascal
  24. I've found my wip that I started in 2008 : https://modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=15958 That was my very first time that I showed my work on the internet. The wip shows how I made the springs from scratch and has pics like this one that show the scratchbuild front of the the F40 : And the opening of the vents :
  25. This is one of the sites that I use for reference material : https://www.ferraris-online.com/pages/sold.php?pg=10 Looking forward to see the progress on both F-40's.
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