Pascal

Thx guys ! Been fighting for 2 days with the carbon decals from Tuner Model Manufactory. These decals are terrible. They're very hard, wont stick to plastic (unpainted, painted, varnished, ...) and are immune to Microscale Set & Sol. I've fixed them in place with Parket Plus (Sols). The pictures clearly show the gloss of the P+, this will be toned down with a satin or matt clearcoat. This picture shows a large, uneven strip running almost the entire length of the cockpit. With the naked eye this strip looks just like the strip on the real car : Looks terrible, but will be better after the weathering : The dashboard has also been wrapped in carbon fibre, some edges still need to be cut : Used my Dremel to make the 4 tiny fuses and the connector that will be fixed to the left side of the dashboard : Sincerely Pascal

Still going strong Wayne. Yes the rear of the central part of the body needs a bit more cutting and modifiying. Another step that isn't clearly marked in the instructions. It's a shame that there are now 2 companies selling metal engines and gearboxes that are just plain copies of the Pocher original. With a bit of extra work, they could have changed the inaccuracies of the original from Pocher.

Been busy making very small parts. This construction is made with 5 pieces of plasticard and tubing. On the actual car, it holds the bracket for the large rear wing : It also serves as a mount for another part : With the lathe, I made a new connector for the driveshaft : Dryfit : Made a new airjack. The rings and lid were made with the lathe : Hotwheels has moulded this piece of tubing to the cockpit : Ugly as hell, so I made a new one with a sewing needle : Dryfit : The cockpit floor received some plastic strips. I also made an oval-shaped hole for the wires to go thru : The largest hole in the middle of the dashboard, will get a knob : The knob is made from brass, a small ring will be added to the back of the knob : Luckily, I dont have to make the switches : A nice bottle of Jacob's Creek Chardonnay, gave me this piece of lead : The lead was used to make a tray (2 x 2,3 x 4 mm) for the circuitbreakers : The engine got some extra details : Tiny parts are hard to photograph : Lots of work, but great fun to do ! Sincerely Pascal

Made a couple more really small parts. Started with a brass hexagonal rod, drilled a hole with the lathe, then cut them to shape with the lathe : Got some tips from a fellow modeller (Roy vd M.). I made these 4 mm rings.Started with a piece of brass rod, drilled a hole in the middle and with the mill I made 6 tiny cutouts in the rings. Finally the rings were cut off with the lathe : Dryfit on the shock : Sincerely Pascal

Been a while since the last update. Had to make a part of the shocks again (must be the 5th or 6th time). For my earlier versions, I used modified eyebolts. This time I used my lathe to cut small brass rings (2,5 mm diameter, 0,9 mm thickness) I soldered a piece of brass tube to the rings, this piece of tube is inserted into a piece of copper tube, then the assembly is inserted into the conical part of the shocks. The previous (eyebolt) version is at the bottom, the new assembly is on top : The ring is less thick then the eyebolt and the eye is larger : Used my lathe to make the "barrel" that's visible in the middle of this photo : (for reference only) And made a small aluminium ring that sits on top of the barrel. The ring will be held in place with a M1 hexagonal bolt. The ring is not fixed to the barrel yet, just a dryfit for the photos : Sincerely Pascal

Looks great Wayne. What exactly is that concoction ? And how did you get it to stick to the surface ? Sincerely Pascal

Thx guys ! In the previous update, the triangular piece was fitted in the wrong way. The brass ring is supposed to be on the inside. Made another small aluminium ring with the lathe (and fitted the brass ring on the inside of the triangular piece) : Dryfit (the outside of the triangular piece will be detailled later on : Sincerely Pascal

Thx Parts from rbmotion are very nice. A small update, but it's the result of a couple of days work. Made some VERY small rings with the lathe. Outer diameter is 2,8mm : In this picture you can see a triangular shaped, grey colored part (bottom right of picture) : Took a couple of hours to replicate it from plasticard. I'm still debating if I will add the slit in the bottom : A copper tube will hold it in place : A dryfit on the gearbox : Judging from the super macro pictures, it still needs a bit of TLC. Sincerely Pascal

Frank, that's not a scale model, that's a work of art ! FANTASTIC Sincerely Pascal

Thank you very much Frank, I really appreciate your comments. Thx guys, time for a little update. It's only a small update, but it's the result of a lot of fiddling. Third version of the shocks, the diameter of the spring is a little bigger : Better then the second version, but then came the forth version : Not there yet, but with some bending of the spring (which is very hard to do) it will turn out ok. Made 2 small triangles from plasticard and glued them to the brass bars : The rough edges simulate welding, not much will be seen after the wheels are mounted, but it makes a solid base for the diagonal rod : Till next time. Sincerely Pascal

I'm pretty sure that Shaun can help you.

Their car decals are from decaldoc.de That website has been closed for years. I've ordered some 1/18 and 1/8 scale decals in the past. They look good, but I haven't used them yet.

Thx for the help. @ Shaun : The gunnar racing site has lots of usefull photos, thx. @ Rob : Thx for the link. Didn't found was I was looking for, but I found lots of other nice photos (Bob Akin's 962's and Obermaier 956). @ Sabrejet : The Norev 1/18 model is the reason that I'm looking for ref material. What brand and number of gold did you use for the wheels ? I'm still looking for ref material from the 9hrs Kyalami race in 1971. I would like to know if the tubes of the rear frame are like the Gulf cars, or more like other 917's. I would also like to know if the 917-012 had the spare wheel / tire fitted for the Kyalami race. These are the only photos that I've found : Based on these 2 photos, I think the spare wheel / tire was not fitted. What do you guys think ? : The tubes are a bit different from this 917, the Lucky Strike car has at least 2 tubes less : This photo shows the brackets that hold the spare wheel / tire : But the Norev model has a different layout of the tubes (sorry for the crappy photos) : All help, thoughs and ideas are welcome ! Sincerely Pascal

I'm looking for pictures of Porsche 917-012, when it raced in Lucky Strike livery at Kyalami in 1971. The tubes from the rear frame seem to differ from car to car, can anyone help me finding reference material ? Sincerely Pascal

Not to shabby about the quality of sd products. Wayne, I can highly recommend JB-weld 2 part cold steel epoxy. It works great on metal, plactic and resin. It can also be used as a putty.

Oh, that I made from brass sheet. I will show it in the next update.

Thank you Roy. The black fan support is from a "cassette" that you use in labelwriter machine (like a Dymo). Those things have very useful plastic parts.

Thx guys Construction of the radiator and fan This is the front radiator of the Beurlys : I started with the triangles, these were made from plasticard which I covered with aluminium sheet to get it as close as possible to the real thing : The big square piece of plastic will become the central part of the radiator : The edges will be covered by aluminiun sheet, for the radiator itself I use a piece of PE from Crazy Modeller : A few hours later : The fan, its housing and the motor for the fan were made from scratch. Here are some progress pics :

The work of a true artist. I absolutely LOVE your projects. Looking forward to the next updates.

It's been way to long since I posted an update, so here we go : Are the parts (31 pieces !) are glued together : Fits like a glove and is removable : A few more bits and pieces : More work on the radiator-box : Some modifications to fit the brass holder in the front lid (bonnet) : Yes ! It fits perfectly and the construction is strong enough to carry the weight of the zamac front lid : Sincerely Pascal

Salut Dan, Le niveau de ton travail est incroyable ! Superbe precision est des solutions geniales. (Hi Dan, The level of your workmanship is incredible ! Superb precision and genius solutions.) I absolutely LOVE your projects, been following them from the GT40 till now. You make it look so simple, but that it is certainly not. Your very sharp pictures and text, gives us mortals an idea how you make certain parts. And that will motivate others to build better models themselves. Thank you for taking the time to explain your project in detail. Sincerely Pascal

Nice work Shaun. Your modifications turn this basic kit into a beauty.

Nice progress Wayne. Here's some reference photos :

A quick dryfit to take some photos. Total length is just under 2 cm, the shock has 7 parts : Looks a bit rough, but it will become smooth once it's polished, glued and painted. Sincerely Pascal

Thanks for the help Roy. I'll give it a try on a piece of plastic tube. As an alternative, I think I'll try modifying one of these : The material is neusilber, and these nuts look like a good starting point.