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Pascal

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Posts posted by Pascal

  1. Because I have the Minichamps 956 on my workbench, I thaught it was a good idea to add this one because a lot of parts are the same.

     

    I wanted to buy the Minichamps version of this car, but they are way too expensive.

     

    Got this one from CK-modelcars for around € 40, pictures from their website :

     

    0cd66a93314ee1bd13cc60dbc5d27755.jpg

     

    e8eec1a430be3e6d06c3757c8f8ae063.jpg

     

    86361bb054808fcb1128f40be45bcbe1.jpg

     

    96858d56789e84384dca23f0fca5bf8b.jpg

     

    First thing I'm gonna do is change the covers for the  front wheels. Solido did a poor job with these :

     

    f6442ccfc59e0ae9181377c48b22417d.jpg

     

    The real ones look like this :

     

    3d9bcccab5579833a61662bfcf195054.jpg

     

    The spokes need to be a lot thinner and the hole in the middle needs a smaller diameter. Started by making 2 circles with the lathe :

     

    865da30604ae2932a72aef548c99de98.jpg

     

    To fix the plasticard in the lathe chuck, I drilled a hole and used one of these to fix the plasticard in the lathe chuck :

     

    ccce02cef6d951158ec667986743b9be.jpg

     

    Used a pipe cutter and a punch & die set to make the alu tube and plastic cover :

     

    bfbebbf12f3494eaf4d8b46a4bfbde19.jpg

     

    Removed the Solido cover from the wheel :

     

    e539d742fb283ffc78c46a1b2e2c5733.jpg

     

    And drilled out the wheel nut :

     

    c7ac0d9ad594b3cde81e2bb1f3d130e6.jpg

     

    The new cover fits nicely :

     

    f370d215104280047fc4d389ce0e7af1.jpg

     

     

     

    What's on the to-do-list for this project ? :

     

    Remove the oversized windshield decal and replace it.

    Use 3D printed vanes for the wheel covers.

    Add new wheel nuts.

    Replace (if I can find a good replacement part) the windshield wiper.

    Add details to the interior, because the doors are functional on this model.

    Modify the headlights, Solido always forgets the clear round lenses.

    Drill out the exhaust tubes.

    Various modifications that will (hopefully) improve the look of the model.

     

    The spokes of the pink "stars" were to wide, Dominiek made new ones with 0,3 mm spokes. They are very fragile, out of 20 made just 3 survived transport.

     

    Luckily they're strong when they are glued to the discs, each spoke was given a tiny drop of CA to fix it firmly to the discs :

     

    aa43dacf002db3a4ce69cee418a56577.jpg

     

    After painting the assembled cover white and attaching the decals made by Tim (Thanks again Tim, excellent job !) it was given a HG non gloss clear coat :

     

    2d241d4fa31bc1977c63a44660cbd3f7.jpg

     

    Looks so much better then the Solido version :

     

    e15c7978e1511ae0f86148bf30c35b78.jpg

     

    The hole in the middle will receive a disc (not yet painted white in the photo). I've drilled 6 tiny holes in the disc and glued pieces of stretched sprue to simulate the nuts :

     

    39baec88b1d5c8be8a7216b795e4c104.jpg

     

    ad0be8ce89b2ff3d52918fa977aade07.jpg

     

    Solido has made the rod running from the gear lever to the back of the cockpit in 1 solid piece.

     

    I removed the rod, but this also removed the rivets :

     

    a6dcd0cb99936a617a9859962c1ee9b8.jpg

     

    Made a new strip from the metal from a wine bottle and made the rivets with an riveter :

     

    b848db83cf392ac9ec80826354cc2cc9.jpg

     

    The gear lever and rod will be replaced with a scratchbuid parts :

     

    984c1e9120dfd1049e4425f75524605e.jpg

     

    Used alu tape for the interior, on the left and right side I removed some plastic to fit the modified radiators :

     

    7606f8b09ce6d3834747f33eb1034fd5.jpg

     

    The radiators are ugly, I removed them on the one on the right  :

     

    7e1b04b3baef6e43abbbc6feee5fc3fc.jpg

     

    Use alu tape to box in one of the holes :

     

    14293c8e2437f6f49597dfe0b3d93d34.jpg

     

    PE radiator mesh was cut to size and glued to the back. I also made an extension behind the hole on the top right, because Solido had made this without the tunnel :

     

    05795bc16a0f2035c5caa12096ef4544.jpg

     

    5ff4bffe78d251746f3418d768172e31.jpg

     

    The inside of the radiator assembly received a piece of plasticard (will be painted black) to box in the sides :

     

    e2e2f14110a49ba7e851bb59aa1c03bd.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 3
  2. Nice to have you along Keith.

     

    Update :

     

    I've started making the pieces for the fuel pump construction. Reference photo :

     

    b8df2e98b8693b87dfe478e6e4c74009.jpg

     

    Made 4 cylinders with the lathe and added a hex nut :

     

    48421285ffe5d6a4ee1c10f8b44df7ca.jpg

     

    They will be polished and the shine toned down later :

     

    b0865410ec7efe307b59be50703f7158.jpg

     

    Dryfit with the tubes that are attached to the bottom of the cylinders :

     

    7bb7b58fcde945182a701b48b4e48179.jpg

     

    c3199935bb7ceb8f8dee2c1612f30542.jpg

     

    Added some details and weathered the interior. The light on my workbench make it look way more shinier then it is in daytime :

     

    9cd236920dea30f62b8829d0b0812f1c.jpg

     

    9b076b2275b0c883a5b105e0c15327fe.jpg

     

    I used PE buckles from Uli Nowak, first time for me, but I'll use them again in the future because they look very good :

     

    3e4c702db9665e3f7a243a748484e91f.jpg

     

    Used the lathe to make 2 fire extinguishers  :

     

    d4e76446d14e3770b478a4330f707164.jpg

     

    The left side will be sanded to a more rounded shape  :

     

    46c88c3cca091b7e844bbbdaa43a3d28.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 3
  3. I bought this model some 15 years ago. It was damaged, some decals had yellowed and the Rothmans decals were missing.

     

    As usual, I forgot to take photos of my model before I started the disassembly, but this is how it looks when new :

     

    b3f6663b667cc42c18635d934379200f.jpg
    Photo from Carmodel.com, for reference purpose only

     

    The interior :

     

    e2840ec4db300c22e79d04ac6bf6cb33.jpg
    Photo from Carmodel.com, for reference purpose only

     

    As with most 956 scale models, this one has a seat for the passenger :

     

    4181cd5bdfb06fe11b83e50fb9f636c4.jpg

     

    I started by enlarging the space for the driver's legs  :

     

    6e11a71446cacfdffcbbbe6ab874442d.jpg

     

    And cut the passenger seat from the frame :

     

    e40c7ba9d4367db991664d7c28872ab5.jpg

     

    I'm covering the interior with aluminium tape. But the result is to shiny. I used Commandant 4 polishing compound to make it more dull.

     

    This compound is used to polish, but if you use it with a cottonbud, you can make the alu tape less shiny :

     

    a22953583b9e152b5fd83f884d37af5f.jpg

     

    The beam in the middle of the floor was enlarged and covered with the alu tape :

     

    290c62574e5b53aaabd991a558658cf7.jpg

     

    I still have to add 2 triangles to the beam, you can see the right one in this photo :

     

    d07e9d868143da92e904b62ce0461092.jpg

     

    This photo shows the new panel I made, the hole will receive the scratchbuild fuelpumps :

     

    e7fb194e8c5711cdf0924ef3b3149e4e.jpg

     

    The panel has not been treated with Commandant 4 and shows how shiny the alu tape is before treatment :

     

    6f4634f015e13e7468b4ae92f09c0589.jpg

     

    Will be quite a job to make the fuelpumps, 1/1 scale reference photo :

     

    b8df2e98b8693b87dfe478e6e4c74009.jpg

     

    I did a lot of sanding to the bottom plate, removed some plastic and added some strips :

     

    c0b0452dfdbca491e7a58bfbe8a1aae1.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

     

     

    • Like 5
  4. After a long and hard fight (started this project february 6th 2021) with Moby, this model is finally finished.

     

    As usual, I added a ton of details, most of which aren't visible with the body on the chassis.

     

    Ah well, there will always be the photo's of the interior.

     

    Three photo's of the interior and then onto the finished model.

     

    I used lead foil from a wine bottle to make the tray that held the radio. Didn't install the radio because I don't like it :

     

    768307515fa7030db9d6b495ff29c37e.jpg

     

    7efadb381b4f3c915d06be221b80bcc6.jpg

     

    The last of the seatbelts was glued to the seat :

     

    e3715d708e91977cfd4abdcafc6a6ea6.jpg

     

    The finished model, I made a "photo booth" with some wood and cardboard :

     

    1663adf500f9b5c5f2b5ccdf1d3fcc73.jpg

     

    03ae3c687c8014e3aa8c9595c73a1486.jpg

     

    c18a2ee6489d9a541650a47cb98bfda0.jpg

     

    9a50b3edd49d20ff08f67370fde94636.jpg

     

    ef3a38e22df0e00ddfb44cb86975652a.jpg

     

    2c5e09e333fbc0157948df76d80f7a8f.jpg

     

    d956cb9ee00815a9ac06e33eb2803fa0.jpg

     

    3cf15f27d8074a515b8f8fee24c04141.jpg

     

    1da899db1b97a712bb225681b3421af6.jpg

     

    1f3633e87a7ca0a7669253e148a6f693.jpg

     

    505dcc30b088fe686d5aa00cbb280436.jpg

     

    5e32676d2b408d0c6762f0f165ddad33.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 8
  5. Thx guys

     

    Moby keeps fighting me ...

     

    Added the scratchbuild items to the interior. (Found out that these will require another modification to the dashboard, oh well...) :

     

    db137d748abdf275b19bfcbd7ff7883b.jpg

     

    8fbe8e6a0e758441ee1f4f2c245998a2.jpg

     

    db51d5b615d8723db6023cda8ae1a693.jpg

     

    Glued the seat in place, wasn't easy because I had to install the rollcage first :

     

    6162e7a022b3e76e80108e56039be987.jpg

     

    69d9ce27986c23ad38cfe2dbdc0469a1.jpg

     

    Seatbelts attache to the rollcage like in the real car :

     

    975dcd21c42fef1ec64c4fe621c3076e.jpg

     

    The wheels received the parts that I made / modified (wheelnut, alu tube, air valve and rond alu plate)  :

     

    561c4f2eaf413ae5e734ec438848dd62.jpg

     

    8654587eaf7010b823d63482499ee921.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  6. May I suggest an alternative ?

     

    You can buy a diecast Maisto 991 in 1/24 scale from  for a very nice price https://ck-modelcars.de/en/maisto-1-24-porsche-911-991-ii-gt2-rs-year-2018-yellow-black-31523/p-56814/

     

    spacer.png

     

    That's not a kit, but it's in 1/24 scale and Maisto models are very easy to disassemble.

     

    This one is also 1/24 scale from Bburago, price is € 13,45 :

     

    spacer.png

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  7. Thx Ron,

     

    Finally the work on the interior is coming to an end.

     

    The fire extinguishers are scratch build and have 16 parts, they look real nice with the decals designed and printed by Tim :

     

    271acde84f9c9b13b9284beb7e083055.jpg

     

    I added some more details and wires :

     

    f04f5aa5a4119c573600a92c3180dbe7.jpg

     

    6406af8fdec446723350433275684b6e.jpg

     

    b9cd51e39d0432bb86a797139100f953.jpg

     

    54be3ca72d72d5a78c92db49bfe69b19.jpg

     

    Dryfit with the dashboard :

     

    e11aaf662bae8a443c7ceb6dbd9b5900.jpg

     

    This is how the interior looked before the work began :

     

    308798c3f4403ec70ea2cfbbd07fc5c7.jpg

     

    I still need to find a way to glue the dashboard firmly in place.

     

    Then it will be a delicate job to put the seat in after the rollcage is fitted. Not enough space to do it the other way round.

     

    Finally the radio, some tiny home-made parts, and the seatbelts need to be installed.

     

    After that, the interior is done.

     

    Hope to reach the finish line in 3 - 4 weeks.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 5
  8. The details inside the rollbar look great Ron, some very nice scratchwork.

    But the outside bar has some strange bends in the curve on top. Did you use a tube ? 

     

    Personally, I prefer to use a metal rod, so that it doesn't "cave in" when I bend it.

     

    But I'm nit picking here. 

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 1
  9. Update :

     

    I finally managed to glue (using CA and J&B weld) the gear lever and it's housing to the tubes in the cockpit.

     

    The macro photos shows the dust that is left after sanding the J&B weld :

     

    a8734ad5ff592fb4c3db923d6f936b1d.jpg 

     

    119f72ac18a19bec6f44e8c80b023cb7.jpg

     

    This photo shows the medium grey J&B weld that I put between the tube and the housing to get a strong bond :

     

    2fcf3fe8a2a263a33a2855d05c8fd2ff.jpg

     

    This is the tube that connects the gear lever to the gearbox, 8 parts in total. The right part is the only part that came with the Solido model, the rest was scratched.

     

    The little tube on the left that sits over the larger tube is a modified part from a lighter :

     

    cde1fe982c731d236fd9a9dcf3a8cacd.jpg

     

    833e60ea939bbb1c7f197dd2af29110c.jpg

     

    Dryfit. The bottom part of the gear lever will be glued inside the little vertical tube that I put on the large tube :

     

    8d75e0e56b352f34abebd8c0b5052512.jpg

     

    f9421f875800ed1181532f97a1ce86d3.jpg

     

    836dd96415994e938e86bd4cbb88b6de.jpg

     

    Not to much to show, but it's a BIG step forward.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  10. It's been quite a struggle to find a way to fix all the scratchbuild parts together.

     

    These are the parts that will be fitted to the lever (brake balance lever ?) that's just to the left behind the gear lever.

     

    The tubes are made from injection needles :

     

    1244e1e58991c052ba8d0e170d42b676.jpg

     

    Dryfit in the cockpit :

     

    d7d8fd5a82ab2c8d5d2130df17d7dc01.jpg

     

    cf45e379d3be45f1802e8da3e29dd0fb.jpg

     

    With the tubes, not connected to the eyebolts because - at this stage - they aren't long enough :

     

    ab153590ebe09bf7eae64b3094cdc1cf.jpg

     

    19675f61bad941133499ce4177efbdd7.jpg

     

    They're not parallel, this will be fixed later :

     

    a5ad1b8bfc899a7eccaa6dd2ace37e51.jpg

     

    Made another piece of tubing to get the correct length :

     

    aac757154826ce31bc813e458e333fc6.jpg

     

    Now the tubes are long enough, so they fit over the eyebolts. Macro photo shows there's some cleaning to do :

     

    b9b56e3229d6127c81bb027e46dea4a7.jpg

     

    New dryfit :

     

    df0b0a1c8a4a2d463b9136348e3a4bfc.jpg

     

    fecc3a8c4bcb2f8d8991063e30f9e1a2.jpg

     

    50a4c18dc30c80e7dedd50f65692718a.jpg

     

    228599ff736af202c2e2e17580505dc9.jpg

     

    One hurdle completed, on to the next one.

    • Like 2
  11. Update : 

     

    Using copper wire I made the V-shaped bracket that's welded to the diagonal tube. Painted and glued in place (the white stuff is flour + CA) :

     

    3187aef2a210862114952dac4c08a9e7.jpg

     

    But I didn't look good and didn't look like the real car.

     

    It was then that I realized that I made a big mistake. The tube diagonal tubes that run through the top of the firewall sit to low :

     

    d16ea78c572ef5484fe4eb23a1f9d2a3.jpg

     

    The big black bump on the firewall needs to be some 5-6 mm higher :

     

    e61a5abedf54f693d78bc0aacb64fc35.jpg

     

    To modify the bump, I have to take the entire construction of the interior apart. I highly doubt that the parts will survive that kind of treatment.

     

    So, I decided to leave the bump and make a new tube.

     

    The old one and the V-shaped bracket were removed. Very gently because that part of the construction is fragile :

     

    1033e92e97e188c182c41a6885f01424.jpg

     

    06d86f00a253dd3c81b783f495161027.jpg

     

    Installed a new tube and a new V-shaped bracket :

     

    35c6c0cb8975d5125949294f4aea793a.jpg

     

    Much better :

     

    3e93c9650641fbb6acafe3c8f70972fa.jpg

     

    The V-shaped bracket will hold this lever. It's made up of 7 parts, the tubes on the left side will be the same length when everything is installed :

     

    3f7732eede9607288bed91841f78f7da.jpg

     

    The eyebolt were carefully filed to a much smaller size :

     

    68155769501f9e1d0519735c590d4f2e.jpg

     

    Tiny piece, the square is 10 x 10 mm :

     

    6e4e7c7be5e75aff37f26c29ebdbfacb.jpg

     

    I'm glad that I found a solution to the problem, even though it's not perfect, it will hardly be noticable when all the parts are installed.

     

    But it will be quite a challenge to assemble all the parts in that limited space.

     

    We'll see...

     

    Pascal MNTADO (*)

     

    (*) Motivation Never Takes A Day Off

    • Like 4
  12. Update :

     

    It took a lot of time to find a way to make the tiny parts for the gear lever, shaft and all the details that surround it.

     

    On the right side of the photo, you can see the coupling of the gearbox shaft :

     

    Op deze foto is rechts de koppeling te zien van de buis die van de versnellingspook naar de versnellingsbak loopt :

     

    8b08f2a2ab6caaaaff6794f89df3006b.jpg

     

    Solido made the coupling like this :

     

    43b8b9cd695342eb0cf4a5cf49821715.jpg

     

    I kept the rear part of the coupling and modified it :

     

    f074652115974e1ec0fbeafe2a7d7ddb.jpg

     

    The front part of the coupling is made from piece of alu rod :

     

    1fc3a306d47c251457b23cfe9718d546.jpg

     

    These are some of the parts that I will use for the gear lever and shaft.

     

    From top to bottom : 

     

    Steel rod (from a large paperclip).

    The little piece on the right that sits on top is a modified piece from a lighter.

    Steel tube from a cable ferrule.

    Scratchbuild front part of the coupling.

     

    Still have to make the tiny square block for the shaft :

     

    a6a35e82ce276e4b57658f0ea6e4a7a9.jpg

     

    Dryfit, the cockpit has received some cables and braided wire, fixed in place with painted lead foil from a winebottle :

     

    b75a260f0dd4a5f67cdc3cb73305e146.jpg

     

    82d53ade56e71d0cd326c7b08f94e763.jpg

     

    To make the gear lever, I soldere a piece of  copper wire to an eyebolt. The photo shows a dryfit with a M1 hex bolt and nut :

     

    d6bf9e01bb33aae1f8149e083230ca68.jpg

     

    35f93dd9e3ceeff6bccfeae0914dc2e3.jpg

     

    The little ball has a diameter of 2,5 mm, it's from a kit to make necklaces :

     

    aec1db858334e7a42567c73a443ee2e5.jpg

     

    The front of the gear lever housing will get these tiny parts :

     

    bded37b9bb7b6bba33afd4980a2ba7b3.jpg

     

    Hex nut, turned piece of alu rod, smaller nod and the lid I made with the lathe :

     

    95113516b2d65899ab8b857582e02f34.jpg

     

    This dryfit shows that it's to high, the piece of alu rod will be shortened :

     

    3b9dd00103295503a90f86fcf69c1cc6.jpg

     

    It will be quite an adventure to fit and glue all these tiny parts together.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 7
  13. I wanted to buy the Minichamps version of this car, but they are way too expensive.

     

    Got this one from CK-modelcars for around € 40, pictures from their website :

     

    0cd66a93314ee1bd13cc60dbc5d27755.jpg

     

    e8eec1a430be3e6d06c3757c8f8ae063.jpg

     

    86361bb054808fcb1128f40be45bcbe1.jpg

     

    96858d56789e84384dca23f0fca5bf8b.jpg

     

    First thing I'm gonna do is change the covers for the  front wheels. Solido did a poor job with these :

     

    f6442ccfc59e0ae9181377c48b22417d.jpg

     

    The real ones look like this :

     

    3d9bcccab5579833a61662bfcf195054.jpg

     

    The spokes need to be a lot thinner and the hole in the middle needs a smaller diameter. Started by making 2 circles with the lathe :

     

    865da30604ae2932a72aef548c99de98.jpg

     

    To fix the plasticard in the lathe chuck, I drilled a hole and used one of these to fix the plasticard in the lathe chuck :

     

    ccce02cef6d951158ec667986743b9be.jpg

     

    Used a pipe cutter and a punch & die set to make the alu tube and plastic cover :

     

    bfbebbf12f3494eaf4d8b46a4bfbde19.jpg

     

    Removed the Solido cover from the wheel :

     

    e539d742fb283ffc78c46a1b2e2c5733.jpg

     

    And drilled out the wheel nut :

     

    c7ac0d9ad594b3cde81e2bb1f3d130e6.jpg

     

    The new cover fits nicely :

     

    f370d215104280047fc4d389ce0e7af1.jpg

     

    Dominiek (Exserco) has printed these for me :

     

    a539c7d51ce630cf99a89783e658a922.jpg

     

    Dryfit with the cover :

     

    93f7706cb6fc50e7ba911232c7e69fb7.jpg

     

    The 3D printed part fits perfectly :

     

    c72d943e3e42ff9c1f6762904d439730.jpg

     

    These are the parts that I will use to fix the new wheelnut in place, the big metal part was made with the lathe :

     

    7943966f9c281733202e54837dd7a98d.jpg

     

    I bought some acrylic rods and used the lathe to make these headlight lenses. They need a bit more polishing and will get a coat of Parket Plus. The matt one shows how they look before polishing :

     

    16f9a98779f07f41aa094e1dac18a46f.jpg

     

    What's on the to-do-list for this project ? :

     

    Remove the oversized windshield decal and replace it.

    Use 3D printed vanes for the wheel covers.

    Add new wheel nuts.

    Replace (if I can find a good replacement part) the windshield wiper.

    Add details to the interior, because the doors are functional on this model.

    Modify the headlights, Solido always forgets the clear round lenses.

    Drill out the exhaust tubes.

    Various modifications that will (hopefully) improve the look of the model.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 5
  14. I got tired of dealing with the zamac, so I made this little cutie.

     

    Laser-cut wooden kit from Robotime, 145 parts. Photo from the Robotime website :

     

    Rolife_Tramcar_TG505_-_Modern_3D_Wooden_

     

    Took me 2 days to build, I added some color variation using woodstain and permanent markers. Was a fun little project :

     

    57deecd935404e2c2ddf44d7b0a788cd.jpg

     

    419367eff835befc92c41b03cbfef470.jpg

     

    649c3499dc68912d4d2d4121f6fae212.jpg

     

    bd301425d3c49995e83b7a1013273ee8.jpg

     

    0fe1f4b719bdc1794e3ffaf9e67e09b8.jpg

     

    7295e5d3c8d4e687e3092c765b878b89.jpg

     

    2525da33f5c3f23c94e493ed0f26f3b3.jpg

     

    The little part in the last photo has been corrected.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 14
  15. I really need to find some more time for modelling.

     

    Update. Resin parts :

     

    Cylinder covers :

     

    b33df997842da224085133852b1a6d3c.jpg

     

    Manifold :

     

    6e4c8277dd384793b6f503cdb71ed92a.jpg

     

    Drilled holes in the underside to attach the tubes :

     

    76754663ef54c29f766c66f8da2b5996.jpg

     

    Tubes :

     

    f04d0d4bf01aee7541684df0d9998b16.jpg

     

    Some plastic needs to be removed to make room for the tubes and covers :

     

    315b88040bc9271eafb6bfc3d7182f1d.jpg

     

    This lousy pic shows the back of the gearbox. I scratchbuild the master for this part, the Ferrari logo is visible with the naked eye :

     

    74316818ab006b59f62857d1f9b3ff7c.jpg

     

    These triangular parts attach the gearbox to the frame :

     

    c47c2e45a2294e1c2987cf4c5974bea0.jpg

     

    Inside the gearbox I fitted a terminal block, fixed in place with resin. The screw in the block allows me to hold the driveshaft in place, it also allows the gearbox to be moved about 5mm vertically, to change the ride height (I took some photos while I fixed the terminal block in place, but can't find them)  :

     

    aeb7d7af0babbaa072f4459954839ba8.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  16. I come back to the forum after a couple of weeks, and see this ...

     

    I'm truly devastated by this terrible news.

     

    Chas and I stayed in touch through emails, I was wondering why he hadn't replied to my last mail.

     

    You will be deeply missed Mr. C, may your next place be filled with gorgeous Pocher classics.

     

    Farewell my friend, thank you for the honor of being your friend.

     

    Pascal

    • Like 2
  17. Always nice to see a 962.

     

    The livery you have chosen is really nice :

     

    spacer.png

     

    It's a shame that both Tamiya and Hasegawa (reboxed by Revell) have failed in making a nice 962 kit.

     

    Personally, I prefer the Hasegawa kit. The front fenders need some major rework, but I prefer doing that then dealing with the fixed clear parts of the Tamiya kit.

     

    Are you gonna remove the engine cover from the body ? Would be a shame to hide all the details that you added.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 1
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