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Pascal

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Posts posted by Pascal

  1. I got tired of dealing with the zamac, so I made this little cutie.

     

    Laser-cut wooden kit from Robotime, 145 parts. Photo from the Robotime website :

     

    Rolife_Tramcar_TG505_-_Modern_3D_Wooden_

     

    Took me 2 days to build, I added some color variation using woodstain and permanent markers. Was a fun little project :

     

    57deecd935404e2c2ddf44d7b0a788cd.jpg

     

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    The little part in the last photo has been corrected.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 14
  2. I really need to find some more time for modelling.

     

    Update. Resin parts :

     

    Cylinder covers :

     

    b33df997842da224085133852b1a6d3c.jpg

     

    Manifold :

     

    6e4c8277dd384793b6f503cdb71ed92a.jpg

     

    Drilled holes in the underside to attach the tubes :

     

    76754663ef54c29f766c66f8da2b5996.jpg

     

    Tubes :

     

    f04d0d4bf01aee7541684df0d9998b16.jpg

     

    Some plastic needs to be removed to make room for the tubes and covers :

     

    315b88040bc9271eafb6bfc3d7182f1d.jpg

     

    This lousy pic shows the back of the gearbox. I scratchbuild the master for this part, the Ferrari logo is visible with the naked eye :

     

    74316818ab006b59f62857d1f9b3ff7c.jpg

     

    These triangular parts attach the gearbox to the frame :

     

    c47c2e45a2294e1c2987cf4c5974bea0.jpg

     

    Inside the gearbox I fitted a terminal block, fixed in place with resin. The screw in the block allows me to hold the driveshaft in place, it also allows the gearbox to be moved about 5mm vertically, to change the ride height (I took some photos while I fixed the terminal block in place, but can't find them)  :

     

    aeb7d7af0babbaa072f4459954839ba8.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  3. I come back to the forum after a couple of weeks, and see this ...

     

    I'm truly devastated by this terrible news.

     

    Chas and I stayed in touch through emails, I was wondering why he hadn't replied to my last mail.

     

    You will be deeply missed Mr. C, may your next place be filled with gorgeous Pocher classics.

     

    Farewell my friend, thank you for the honor of being your friend.

     

    Pascal

    • Like 2
  4. Always nice to see a 962.

     

    The livery you have chosen is really nice :

     

    spacer.png

     

    It's a shame that both Tamiya and Hasegawa (reboxed by Revell) have failed in making a nice 962 kit.

     

    Personally, I prefer the Hasegawa kit. The front fenders need some major rework, but I prefer doing that then dealing with the fixed clear parts of the Tamiya kit.

     

    Are you gonna remove the engine cover from the body ? Would be a shame to hide all the details that you added.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 1
  5. Mr argent-neuf-cent-onze (*)  ,

     

    Thank you for the wonderful photos of your stunning work. All those parts would make a great diorama.

     

    (*) Your username sounds good in French, like a character from a James Bond movie 🙂

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

     

     

    • Like 1
  6. Nice project, is that the Entex kit ?

     

    To keep distances and angles, you can make a jig to hold the parts in place and get the construction straight and square. 

    Most parts will require sanding and polishing. Look at your photos, there are some parts that could use a couple of swipes with some sandpaper or a sanding block.

     

    Best of luck with this project.

     

    Sincerely 

     

    Pascal

  7. Thx mates !

     

    Been very busy making tiny parts. These parts need to be metal, so I used metal foil that's wrapped around the top of winebottles. First task was to remove the paint :

     

    eeefff2a1ef81cb8a89819f4fe2412aa.jpg

     

    I made the handle with my lathe. Started with a bigger diameter alu rod, because it's easier to cut the slit in the rod.

     

    The handle needs a bit more work to make it straight.

     

    With the lathe, I cut the rod to the correct diameter, also made the button on top in the same way.

     

    The triangular part that holds the handle was made from the metal foil. The Solido part is on the right :

     

    995875a4165cd69dcbcaebeb6ebdffaf.jpg

     

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    The handle will receive 2 eyeybolts. The thread and ring of the eyebolts will be removed :

     

    30ab1a2b8028c755d4b597e777dd7723.jpg

     

    This part was also made from metal foil. Was a hard job to bend it into the correct shape, especially the tiny sides :

     

    e51f8aacb80a3de2ac682aee13d65f98.jpg

     

    The Solido part on the right is quite different :

     

    7d05bb2f966c6a6bb610819e1cded7e6.jpg

     

    The 2 small holes will receive tiny 0,8 outer diameter open brass rivets. These rivets will hold the green cables. A family photo of the first parts :

     

    cdf48b28c5e87f7f5e5bb839cecde0de.jpg

     

    These reference photo show how everything fits together :

     

    8b08f2a2ab6caaaaff6794f89df3006b.jpg

     

    28eaae06dbf71dd35e0a77d8d38f9e78.jpg

     

    8c882890f5e8d77d4f805d7ba410a4f5.jpg

    For reference purpose only

     

    The roll cage gives me some big headaches. Both the roll cage and the interior were extensively modified.

     

    The result is that they no longer fit together without using some force.

     

    I broke off a piece of the roll cage during the endless dryfitting. Not to bad because it needs a bit more work at exactly the spot where it broke off :

     

    fcf7f04da346e2aef530420c993d5d98.jpg

     

    Another big headache is the dashboard. Solido had fixed the dashboard to the underside of the body.

     

    In order to fit all the pieces and cables, it needs to be fixed to the interior. Here's a dryfit, the 2 holes show how the dash was attached to the body :

     

    0160f1bc7075ea35429a44598c5be672.jpg

     

    The underside of the dashboard also needs to be fixed to the diagonal tubes. I made a tray for it, but that's not on the photo :

     

    79e1928b33b874acbe478332aa4fcc68.jpg

     

    Here I inserted the left diagonal tube. The spacing between the tubes is to big, but that will be better when the left tube will be glued in place :

     

    e117f7a9e08b238bd3517a13620a1b95.jpg

     

    And last but not least, the dashboard needs to fit snugly against the roll cage. At the moment that's another headache, tough it looks fine during the dryfit :

     

    b1b94bc1fe5ac5511348670ac28c637a.jpg

     

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    It's gonna be a lot of work to fit the roll cage, dashboard, fire-extinguishers, cables and all the other tiny parts together.

     

    Wish me luck.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

  8. Thx for the replies.

     

    Mr. C, I hope it won't delay my Porsche/Ferrari projects. Progress on this Alpine will be slow, because I've only just started searching for reference-material.

     

    But still, I made some progress. I succeeded in taking apart the entire model. Had to cut the glass parts in two, to remove them from the body :

     

    1cf1186f0ef21230e65eb3f00ac47da5.jpg

     

    The hinges could use some extra details :

     

    64492236210beb66f4d9f854d2d4818f.jpg

     

    7b44bcb9a61bfe248b1c6b0b6e687d8f.jpg

     

    But modifying these will prevent the lids from opening. Not sure yet if I want to do that.

     

    I don't want to respray the body, because it looks really nice. Will give it a couple of coats of clearcoat and polish it to a "Concours d'élégance" finish.

     

    The only flaws are these vertical moulds lines, not worth respraying the entire body IMO :

     

    c7c49ca1f66bf3e2c4966c0e44bed290.jpg

     

    The brake discs are a bit odd. The side that's visible is flat (like the 1/1 car) :

     

    053ad6cf59b4e464cf1ea8d70f3627df.jpg

     

    The other side has these holes :

     

    f0bf0c841dd301e5811bfc6ee46e093f.jpg

     

    I haven't removed the brake discs yet, because they are mounted in typical Bburago fashion. If you pull them from the plastic tabs, they'll never fit properly again.

     

    The brake discs have a diameter of about 19mm, might make new one with the lathe so I can salvage the plastic ones for another model.

     

    Plenty of things to think about. Meanwhile here's a nice video of a restoration. My model is also a 1600 S :

     

     

     

     

    Sincerely

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  9. After seeing the wonderful builds of the Tamiya 1/24 Alpine's, I decided to make one myself.

     

    Not the 1/24 Tamiya kit, but this 1/16 diecast model made by Bburago quite a few years ago.

     

    Got this beauty for the great price of € 20 :

     

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    Typically for Bburago are the opening doors, engine compartment and spare tyre compartment :

     

    495dd7ac6eee82cc7606685492b09048.jpg

     

    Also typically Bburago is that not a single drop of glued is used, makes taking it apart a lot easier :

     

    7a286d68bb82d8d5dfed99b2afd7bc2d.jpg

     

    The complete interior :

     

    f3af33cc1d7a26fc528882997acbb0a4.jpg

     

    7dfa2303d46c49c49c212d09516aa454.jpg

     

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    Excellent base model to start with.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 5
  10. I knew I had heard of a similar problem, but it was a long time ago. Finally I remembered :

     

    About 30 years ago, I worked at a factory that made plastic faceted mirrors (used in motion-detection devices, the dectection beam "looks" into those mirrors to scan for movement) that were chromed or aluminized at another factory.

     

    I remember that after a few months we received a call from that other company, telling us that all workers had to wear gloves when handling the plastic mirrors (before they were chromed). They told us that some regulation stopped them from using a chemical that they used in the chroming process.

     

    Before that, fingerprints and things like dust were not a problem. But because they had to change the chemical, any contamination on the plastic was a NO GO.

     

    If your plastic wings were chromed before 1993, it's very possible that a same kind of chemical was used by Tamiya in the chroming process. What that chemical does is basically "eat" any grease and dirt, and it produces an ideal surface for the chrome to stick to, by leaving a sort of "film" or coating on the plastic.

     

    When that chemical was used on plastic, it was nearly impossible to remove it (at least in 1993) because no matter what they did the chemical kept sweating through any coating put on the plastic. A lot of cleaning products (like bleach) reacted with the chemical, and basically ruined the plastic surface for later treatment.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 3
  11. Indeed great that you found a way to solve the problem. Hadn't thought about using a ultrasonic cleaner, but it clearly works well.

     

    Can you ask your neighbour what kind of fluid he uses in his ultrasonic cleaner ?

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 1
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