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Pascal

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Posts posted by Pascal

  1. Thx Ron,

     

    Finally the work on the interior is coming to an end.

     

    The fire extinguishers are scratch build and have 16 parts, they look real nice with the decals designed and printed by Tim :

     

    271acde84f9c9b13b9284beb7e083055.jpg

     

    I added some more details and wires :

     

    f04f5aa5a4119c573600a92c3180dbe7.jpg

     

    6406af8fdec446723350433275684b6e.jpg

     

    b9cd51e39d0432bb86a797139100f953.jpg

     

    54be3ca72d72d5a78c92db49bfe69b19.jpg

     

    Dryfit with the dashboard :

     

    e11aaf662bae8a443c7ceb6dbd9b5900.jpg

     

    This is how the interior looked before the work began :

     

    308798c3f4403ec70ea2cfbbd07fc5c7.jpg

     

    I still need to find a way to glue the dashboard firmly in place.

     

    Then it will be a delicate job to put the seat in after the rollcage is fitted. Not enough space to do it the other way round.

     

    Finally the radio, some tiny home-made parts, and the seatbelts need to be installed.

     

    After that, the interior is done.

     

    Hope to reach the finish line in 3 - 4 weeks.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  2. The details inside the rollbar look great Ron, some very nice scratchwork.

    But the outside bar has some strange bends in the curve on top. Did you use a tube ? 

     

    Personally, I prefer to use a metal rod, so that it doesn't "cave in" when I bend it.

     

    But I'm nit picking here. 

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 1
  3. Update :

     

    I finally managed to glue (using CA and J&B weld) the gear lever and it's housing to the tubes in the cockpit.

     

    The macro photos shows the dust that is left after sanding the J&B weld :

     

    a8734ad5ff592fb4c3db923d6f936b1d.jpg 

     

    119f72ac18a19bec6f44e8c80b023cb7.jpg

     

    This photo shows the medium grey J&B weld that I put between the tube and the housing to get a strong bond :

     

    2fcf3fe8a2a263a33a2855d05c8fd2ff.jpg

     

    This is the tube that connects the gear lever to the gearbox, 8 parts in total. The right part is the only part that came with the Solido model, the rest was scratched.

     

    The little tube on the left that sits over the larger tube is a modified part from a lighter :

     

    cde1fe982c731d236fd9a9dcf3a8cacd.jpg

     

    833e60ea939bbb1c7f197dd2af29110c.jpg

     

    Dryfit. The bottom part of the gear lever will be glued inside the little vertical tube that I put on the large tube :

     

    8d75e0e56b352f34abebd8c0b5052512.jpg

     

    f9421f875800ed1181532f97a1ce86d3.jpg

     

    836dd96415994e938e86bd4cbb88b6de.jpg

     

    Not to much to show, but it's a BIG step forward.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 3
  4. It's been quite a struggle to find a way to fix all the scratchbuild parts together.

     

    These are the parts that will be fitted to the lever (brake balance lever ?) that's just to the left behind the gear lever.

     

    The tubes are made from injection needles :

     

    1244e1e58991c052ba8d0e170d42b676.jpg

     

    Dryfit in the cockpit :

     

    d7d8fd5a82ab2c8d5d2130df17d7dc01.jpg

     

    cf45e379d3be45f1802e8da3e29dd0fb.jpg

     

    With the tubes, not connected to the eyebolts because - at this stage - they aren't long enough :

     

    ab153590ebe09bf7eae64b3094cdc1cf.jpg

     

    19675f61bad941133499ce4177efbdd7.jpg

     

    They're not parallel, this will be fixed later :

     

    a5ad1b8bfc899a7eccaa6dd2ace37e51.jpg

     

    Made another piece of tubing to get the correct length :

     

    aac757154826ce31bc813e458e333fc6.jpg

     

    Now the tubes are long enough, so they fit over the eyebolts. Macro photo shows there's some cleaning to do :

     

    b9b56e3229d6127c81bb027e46dea4a7.jpg

     

    New dryfit :

     

    df0b0a1c8a4a2d463b9136348e3a4bfc.jpg

     

    fecc3a8c4bcb2f8d8991063e30f9e1a2.jpg

     

    50a4c18dc30c80e7dedd50f65692718a.jpg

     

    228599ff736af202c2e2e17580505dc9.jpg

     

    One hurdle completed, on to the next one.

    • Like 1
  5. Update : 

     

    Using copper wire I made the V-shaped bracket that's welded to the diagonal tube. Painted and glued in place (the white stuff is flour + CA) :

     

    3187aef2a210862114952dac4c08a9e7.jpg

     

    But I didn't look good and didn't look like the real car.

     

    It was then that I realized that I made a big mistake. The tube diagonal tubes that run through the top of the firewall sit to low :

     

    d16ea78c572ef5484fe4eb23a1f9d2a3.jpg

     

    The big black bump on the firewall needs to be some 5-6 mm higher :

     

    e61a5abedf54f693d78bc0aacb64fc35.jpg

     

    To modify the bump, I have to take the entire construction of the interior apart. I highly doubt that the parts will survive that kind of treatment.

     

    So, I decided to leave the bump and make a new tube.

     

    The old one and the V-shaped bracket were removed. Very gently because that part of the construction is fragile :

     

    1033e92e97e188c182c41a6885f01424.jpg

     

    06d86f00a253dd3c81b783f495161027.jpg

     

    Installed a new tube and a new V-shaped bracket :

     

    35c6c0cb8975d5125949294f4aea793a.jpg

     

    Much better :

     

    3e93c9650641fbb6acafe3c8f70972fa.jpg

     

    The V-shaped bracket will hold this lever. It's made up of 7 parts, the tubes on the left side will be the same length when everything is installed :

     

    3f7732eede9607288bed91841f78f7da.jpg

     

    The eyebolt were carefully filed to a much smaller size :

     

    68155769501f9e1d0519735c590d4f2e.jpg

     

    Tiny piece, the square is 10 x 10 mm :

     

    6e4e7c7be5e75aff37f26c29ebdbfacb.jpg

     

    I'm glad that I found a solution to the problem, even though it's not perfect, it will hardly be noticable when all the parts are installed.

     

    But it will be quite a challenge to assemble all the parts in that limited space.

     

    We'll see...

     

    Pascal MNTADO (*)

     

    (*) Motivation Never Takes A Day Off

    • Like 3
  6. Update :

     

    It took a lot of time to find a way to make the tiny parts for the gear lever, shaft and all the details that surround it.

     

    On the right side of the photo, you can see the coupling of the gearbox shaft :

     

    Op deze foto is rechts de koppeling te zien van de buis die van de versnellingspook naar de versnellingsbak loopt :

     

    8b08f2a2ab6caaaaff6794f89df3006b.jpg

     

    Solido made the coupling like this :

     

    43b8b9cd695342eb0cf4a5cf49821715.jpg

     

    I kept the rear part of the coupling and modified it :

     

    f074652115974e1ec0fbeafe2a7d7ddb.jpg

     

    The front part of the coupling is made from piece of alu rod :

     

    1fc3a306d47c251457b23cfe9718d546.jpg

     

    These are some of the parts that I will use for the gear lever and shaft.

     

    From top to bottom : 

     

    Steel rod (from a large paperclip).

    The little piece on the right that sits on top is a modified piece from a lighter.

    Steel tube from a cable ferrule.

    Scratchbuild front part of the coupling.

     

    Still have to make the tiny square block for the shaft :

     

    a6a35e82ce276e4b57658f0ea6e4a7a9.jpg

     

    Dryfit, the cockpit has received some cables and braided wire, fixed in place with painted lead foil from a winebottle :

     

    b75a260f0dd4a5f67cdc3cb73305e146.jpg

     

    82d53ade56e71d0cd326c7b08f94e763.jpg

     

    To make the gear lever, I soldere a piece of  copper wire to an eyebolt. The photo shows a dryfit with a M1 hex bolt and nut :

     

    d6bf9e01bb33aae1f8149e083230ca68.jpg

     

    35f93dd9e3ceeff6bccfeae0914dc2e3.jpg

     

    The little ball has a diameter of 2,5 mm, it's from a kit to make necklaces :

     

    aec1db858334e7a42567c73a443ee2e5.jpg

     

    The front of the gear lever housing will get these tiny parts :

     

    bded37b9bb7b6bba33afd4980a2ba7b3.jpg

     

    Hex nut, turned piece of alu rod, smaller nod and the lid I made with the lathe :

     

    95113516b2d65899ab8b857582e02f34.jpg

     

    This dryfit shows that it's to high, the piece of alu rod will be shortened :

     

    3b9dd00103295503a90f86fcf69c1cc6.jpg

     

    It will be quite an adventure to fit and glue all these tiny parts together.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 6
  7. I wanted to buy the Minichamps version of this car, but they are way too expensive.

     

    Got this one from CK-modelcars for around € 40, pictures from their website :

     

    0cd66a93314ee1bd13cc60dbc5d27755.jpg

     

    e8eec1a430be3e6d06c3757c8f8ae063.jpg

     

    86361bb054808fcb1128f40be45bcbe1.jpg

     

    96858d56789e84384dca23f0fca5bf8b.jpg

     

    First thing I'm gonna do is change the covers for the  front wheels. Solido did a poor job with these :

     

    f6442ccfc59e0ae9181377c48b22417d.jpg

     

    The real ones look like this :

     

    3d9bcccab5579833a61662bfcf195054.jpg

     

    The spokes need to be a lot thinner and the hole in the middle needs a smaller diameter. Started by making 2 circles with the lathe :

     

    865da30604ae2932a72aef548c99de98.jpg

     

    To fix the plasticard in the lathe chuck, I drilled a hole and used one of these to fix the plasticard in the lathe chuck :

     

    ccce02cef6d951158ec667986743b9be.jpg

     

    Used a pipe cutter and a punch & die set to make the alu tube and plastic cover :

     

    bfbebbf12f3494eaf4d8b46a4bfbde19.jpg

     

    Removed the Solido cover from the wheel :

     

    e539d742fb283ffc78c46a1b2e2c5733.jpg

     

    And drilled out the wheel nut :

     

    c7ac0d9ad594b3cde81e2bb1f3d130e6.jpg

     

    The new cover fits nicely :

     

    f370d215104280047fc4d389ce0e7af1.jpg

     

    Dominiek (Exserco) has printed these for me :

     

    a539c7d51ce630cf99a89783e658a922.jpg

     

    Dryfit with the cover :

     

    93f7706cb6fc50e7ba911232c7e69fb7.jpg

     

    The 3D printed part fits perfectly :

     

    c72d943e3e42ff9c1f6762904d439730.jpg

     

    These are the parts that I will use to fix the new wheelnut in place, the big metal part was made with the lathe :

     

    7943966f9c281733202e54837dd7a98d.jpg

     

    I bought some acrylic rods and used the lathe to make these headlight lenses. They need a bit more polishing and will get a coat of Parket Plus. The matt one shows how they look before polishing :

     

    16f9a98779f07f41aa094e1dac18a46f.jpg

     

    What's on the to-do-list for this project ? :

     

    Remove the oversized windshield decal and replace it.

    Use 3D printed vanes for the wheel covers.

    Add new wheel nuts.

    Replace (if I can find a good replacement part) the windshield wiper.

    Add details to the interior, because the doors are functional on this model.

    Modify the headlights, Solido always forgets the clear round lenses.

    Drill out the exhaust tubes.

    Various modifications that will (hopefully) improve the look of the model.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 5
  8. I got tired of dealing with the zamac, so I made this little cutie.

     

    Laser-cut wooden kit from Robotime, 145 parts. Photo from the Robotime website :

     

    Rolife_Tramcar_TG505_-_Modern_3D_Wooden_

     

    Took me 2 days to build, I added some color variation using woodstain and permanent markers. Was a fun little project :

     

    57deecd935404e2c2ddf44d7b0a788cd.jpg

     

    419367eff835befc92c41b03cbfef470.jpg

     

    649c3499dc68912d4d2d4121f6fae212.jpg

     

    bd301425d3c49995e83b7a1013273ee8.jpg

     

    0fe1f4b719bdc1794e3ffaf9e67e09b8.jpg

     

    7295e5d3c8d4e687e3092c765b878b89.jpg

     

    2525da33f5c3f23c94e493ed0f26f3b3.jpg

     

    The little part in the last photo has been corrected.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 14
  9. I really need to find some more time for modelling.

     

    Update. Resin parts :

     

    Cylinder covers :

     

    b33df997842da224085133852b1a6d3c.jpg

     

    Manifold :

     

    6e4c8277dd384793b6f503cdb71ed92a.jpg

     

    Drilled holes in the underside to attach the tubes :

     

    76754663ef54c29f766c66f8da2b5996.jpg

     

    Tubes :

     

    f04d0d4bf01aee7541684df0d9998b16.jpg

     

    Some plastic needs to be removed to make room for the tubes and covers :

     

    315b88040bc9271eafb6bfc3d7182f1d.jpg

     

    This lousy pic shows the back of the gearbox. I scratchbuild the master for this part, the Ferrari logo is visible with the naked eye :

     

    74316818ab006b59f62857d1f9b3ff7c.jpg

     

    These triangular parts attach the gearbox to the frame :

     

    c47c2e45a2294e1c2987cf4c5974bea0.jpg

     

    Inside the gearbox I fitted a terminal block, fixed in place with resin. The screw in the block allows me to hold the driveshaft in place, it also allows the gearbox to be moved about 5mm vertically, to change the ride height (I took some photos while I fixed the terminal block in place, but can't find them)  :

     

    aeb7d7af0babbaa072f4459954839ba8.jpg

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 4
  10. I come back to the forum after a couple of weeks, and see this ...

     

    I'm truly devastated by this terrible news.

     

    Chas and I stayed in touch through emails, I was wondering why he hadn't replied to my last mail.

     

    You will be deeply missed Mr. C, may your next place be filled with gorgeous Pocher classics.

     

    Farewell my friend, thank you for the honor of being your friend.

     

    Pascal

    • Like 2
  11. Always nice to see a 962.

     

    The livery you have chosen is really nice :

     

    spacer.png

     

    It's a shame that both Tamiya and Hasegawa (reboxed by Revell) have failed in making a nice 962 kit.

     

    Personally, I prefer the Hasegawa kit. The front fenders need some major rework, but I prefer doing that then dealing with the fixed clear parts of the Tamiya kit.

     

    Are you gonna remove the engine cover from the body ? Would be a shame to hide all the details that you added.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 1
  12. Mr argent-neuf-cent-onze (*)  ,

     

    Thank you for the wonderful photos of your stunning work. All those parts would make a great diorama.

     

    (*) Your username sounds good in French, like a character from a James Bond movie 🙂

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

     

     

    • Like 1
  13. Nice project, is that the Entex kit ?

     

    To keep distances and angles, you can make a jig to hold the parts in place and get the construction straight and square. 

    Most parts will require sanding and polishing. Look at your photos, there are some parts that could use a couple of swipes with some sandpaper or a sanding block.

     

    Best of luck with this project.

     

    Sincerely 

     

    Pascal

  14. Thx mates !

     

    Been very busy making tiny parts. These parts need to be metal, so I used metal foil that's wrapped around the top of winebottles. First task was to remove the paint :

     

    eeefff2a1ef81cb8a89819f4fe2412aa.jpg

     

    I made the handle with my lathe. Started with a bigger diameter alu rod, because it's easier to cut the slit in the rod.

     

    The handle needs a bit more work to make it straight.

     

    With the lathe, I cut the rod to the correct diameter, also made the button on top in the same way.

     

    The triangular part that holds the handle was made from the metal foil. The Solido part is on the right :

     

    995875a4165cd69dcbcaebeb6ebdffaf.jpg

     

    033537c3acb450b52e664a37c8f57f69.jpg

     

    The handle will receive 2 eyeybolts. The thread and ring of the eyebolts will be removed :

     

    30ab1a2b8028c755d4b597e777dd7723.jpg

     

    This part was also made from metal foil. Was a hard job to bend it into the correct shape, especially the tiny sides :

     

    e51f8aacb80a3de2ac682aee13d65f98.jpg

     

    The Solido part on the right is quite different :

     

    7d05bb2f966c6a6bb610819e1cded7e6.jpg

     

    The 2 small holes will receive tiny 0,8 outer diameter open brass rivets. These rivets will hold the green cables. A family photo of the first parts :

     

    cdf48b28c5e87f7f5e5bb839cecde0de.jpg

     

    These reference photo show how everything fits together :

     

    8b08f2a2ab6caaaaff6794f89df3006b.jpg

     

    28eaae06dbf71dd35e0a77d8d38f9e78.jpg

     

    8c882890f5e8d77d4f805d7ba410a4f5.jpg

    For reference purpose only

     

    The roll cage gives me some big headaches. Both the roll cage and the interior were extensively modified.

     

    The result is that they no longer fit together without using some force.

     

    I broke off a piece of the roll cage during the endless dryfitting. Not to bad because it needs a bit more work at exactly the spot where it broke off :

     

    fcf7f04da346e2aef530420c993d5d98.jpg

     

    Another big headache is the dashboard. Solido had fixed the dashboard to the underside of the body.

     

    In order to fit all the pieces and cables, it needs to be fixed to the interior. Here's a dryfit, the 2 holes show how the dash was attached to the body :

     

    0160f1bc7075ea35429a44598c5be672.jpg

     

    The underside of the dashboard also needs to be fixed to the diagonal tubes. I made a tray for it, but that's not on the photo :

     

    79e1928b33b874acbe478332aa4fcc68.jpg

     

    Here I inserted the left diagonal tube. The spacing between the tubes is to big, but that will be better when the left tube will be glued in place :

     

    e117f7a9e08b238bd3517a13620a1b95.jpg

     

    And last but not least, the dashboard needs to fit snugly against the roll cage. At the moment that's another headache, tough it looks fine during the dryfit :

     

    b1b94bc1fe5ac5511348670ac28c637a.jpg

     

    ac057141987c3199528fc61e66f3c5b8.jpg

     

    It's gonna be a lot of work to fit the roll cage, dashboard, fire-extinguishers, cables and all the other tiny parts together.

     

    Wish me luck.

     

    Sincerely

     

    Pascal

    • Like 3
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