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Pascal

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Everything posted by Pascal

  1. Stunning work Dan, every little detail that you add is a masterpiece on it's own. Très impressionant, chaque pièce que tu fais, est un chef-d'oeuvre. Vivement la suite. Cordialement Pascal
  2. The details inside the rollbar look great Ron, some very nice scratchwork. But the outside bar has some strange bends in the curve on top. Did you use a tube ? Personally, I prefer to use a metal rod, so that it doesn't "cave in" when I bend it. But I'm nit picking here. Sincerely Pascal
  3. Update : I finally managed to glue (using CA and J&B weld) the gear lever and it's housing to the tubes in the cockpit. The macro photos shows the dust that is left after sanding the J&B weld : This photo shows the medium grey J&B weld that I put between the tube and the housing to get a strong bond : This is the tube that connects the gear lever to the gearbox, 8 parts in total. The right part is the only part that came with the Solido model, the rest was scratched. The little tube on the left that sits over the larger tube is a modified part from a lighter : Dryfit. The bottom part of the gear lever will be glued inside the little vertical tube that I put on the large tube : Not to much to show, but it's a BIG step forward. Sincerely Pascal
  4. It's been quite a struggle to find a way to fix all the scratchbuild parts together. These are the parts that will be fitted to the lever (brake balance lever ?) that's just to the left behind the gear lever. The tubes are made from injection needles : Dryfit in the cockpit : With the tubes, not connected to the eyebolts because - at this stage - they aren't long enough : They're not parallel, this will be fixed later : Made another piece of tubing to get the correct length : Now the tubes are long enough, so they fit over the eyebolts. Macro photo shows there's some cleaning to do : New dryfit : One hurdle completed, on to the next one.
  5. Deleted - read the pinned post ref wanted/for sale/trade
  6. Update : Using copper wire I made the V-shaped bracket that's welded to the diagonal tube. Painted and glued in place (the white stuff is flour + CA) : But I didn't look good and didn't look like the real car. It was then that I realized that I made a big mistake. The tube diagonal tubes that run through the top of the firewall sit to low : The big black bump on the firewall needs to be some 5-6 mm higher : To modify the bump, I have to take the entire construction of the interior apart. I highly doubt that the parts will survive that kind of treatment. So, I decided to leave the bump and make a new tube. The old one and the V-shaped bracket were removed. Very gently because that part of the construction is fragile : Installed a new tube and a new V-shaped bracket : Much better : The V-shaped bracket will hold this lever. It's made up of 7 parts, the tubes on the left side will be the same length when everything is installed : The eyebolt were carefully filed to a much smaller size : Tiny piece, the square is 10 x 10 mm : I'm glad that I found a solution to the problem, even though it's not perfect, it will hardly be noticable when all the parts are installed. But it will be quite a challenge to assemble all the parts in that limited space. We'll see... Pascal MNTADO (*) (*) Motivation Never Takes A Day Off
  7. Update : It took a lot of time to find a way to make the tiny parts for the gear lever, shaft and all the details that surround it. On the right side of the photo, you can see the coupling of the gearbox shaft : Op deze foto is rechts de koppeling te zien van de buis die van de versnellingspook naar de versnellingsbak loopt : Solido made the coupling like this : I kept the rear part of the coupling and modified it : The front part of the coupling is made from piece of alu rod : These are some of the parts that I will use for the gear lever and shaft. From top to bottom : Steel rod (from a large paperclip). The little piece on the right that sits on top is a modified piece from a lighter. Steel tube from a cable ferrule. Scratchbuild front part of the coupling. Still have to make the tiny square block for the shaft : Dryfit, the cockpit has received some cables and braided wire, fixed in place with painted lead foil from a winebottle : To make the gear lever, I soldere a piece of copper wire to an eyebolt. The photo shows a dryfit with a M1 hex bolt and nut : The little ball has a diameter of 2,5 mm, it's from a kit to make necklaces : The front of the gear lever housing will get these tiny parts : Hex nut, turned piece of alu rod, smaller nod and the lid I made with the lathe : This dryfit shows that it's to high, the piece of alu rod will be shortened : It will be quite an adventure to fit and glue all these tiny parts together. Sincerely Pascal
  8. I wanted to buy the Minichamps version of this car, but they are way too expensive. Got this one from CK-modelcars for around € 40, pictures from their website : First thing I'm gonna do is change the covers for the front wheels. Solido did a poor job with these : The real ones look like this : The spokes need to be a lot thinner and the hole in the middle needs a smaller diameter. Started by making 2 circles with the lathe : To fix the plasticard in the lathe chuck, I drilled a hole and used one of these to fix the plasticard in the lathe chuck : Used a pipe cutter and a punch & die set to make the alu tube and plastic cover : Removed the Solido cover from the wheel : And drilled out the wheel nut : The new cover fits nicely : Dominiek (Exserco) has printed these for me : Dryfit with the cover : The 3D printed part fits perfectly : These are the parts that I will use to fix the new wheelnut in place, the big metal part was made with the lathe : I bought some acrylic rods and used the lathe to make these headlight lenses. They need a bit more polishing and will get a coat of Parket Plus. The matt one shows how they look before polishing : What's on the to-do-list for this project ? : Remove the oversized windshield decal and replace it. Use 3D printed vanes for the wheel covers. Add new wheel nuts. Replace (if I can find a good replacement part) the windshield wiper. Add details to the interior, because the doors are functional on this model. Modify the headlights, Solido always forgets the clear round lenses. Drill out the exhaust tubes. Various modifications that will (hopefully) improve the look of the model. Sincerely Pascal
  9. I got tired of dealing with the zamac, so I made this little cutie. Laser-cut wooden kit from Robotime, 145 parts. Photo from the Robotime website : Took me 2 days to build, I added some color variation using woodstain and permanent markers. Was a fun little project : The little part in the last photo has been corrected. Sincerely Pascal
  10. I really need to find some more time for modelling. Update. Resin parts : Cylinder covers : Manifold : Drilled holes in the underside to attach the tubes : Tubes : Some plastic needs to be removed to make room for the tubes and covers : This lousy pic shows the back of the gearbox. I scratchbuild the master for this part, the Ferrari logo is visible with the naked eye : These triangular parts attach the gearbox to the frame : Inside the gearbox I fitted a terminal block, fixed in place with resin. The screw in the block allows me to hold the driveshaft in place, it also allows the gearbox to be moved about 5mm vertically, to change the ride height (I took some photos while I fixed the terminal block in place, but can't find them) : Sincerely Pascal
  11. Pascal

    'Codger' R I P

    I come back to the forum after a couple of weeks, and see this ... I'm truly devastated by this terrible news. Chas and I stayed in touch through emails, I was wondering why he hadn't replied to my last mail. You will be deeply missed Mr. C, may your next place be filled with gorgeous Pocher classics. Farewell my friend, thank you for the honor of being your friend. Pascal
  12. Always nice to see a 962. The livery you have chosen is really nice : It's a shame that both Tamiya and Hasegawa (reboxed by Revell) have failed in making a nice 962 kit. Personally, I prefer the Hasegawa kit. The front fenders need some major rework, but I prefer doing that then dealing with the fixed clear parts of the Tamiya kit. Are you gonna remove the engine cover from the body ? Would be a shame to hide all the details that you added. Sincerely Pascal
  13. Nice work. I could use one of those spines for my F-16D VISTA. Do you plan on selling any ?
  14. Mr argent-neuf-cent-onze (*) , Thank you for the wonderful photos of your stunning work. All those parts would make a great diorama. (*) Your username sounds good in French, like a character from a James Bond movie Sincerely Pascal
  15. Very nice work on the wheels. How do you respoke them ? Homemade jig ? What did you use for the spokes ? How did you drill the holes ? From the inside or the outside of the rim ?
  16. Hi Jim, Happy to help. If you have any questions about the F-40, please feel free to ask me. I'm a total F-40 maniac and know the car inside and out.
  17. Hi Jim, Maybe you can asked Tim K, if he still has the instructions of his 1/16 build : Your Revell kit is a rebox of the Italeri kit, but with some extra parts.
  18. Thanks for sharing ! Very interesting, so the talcum powder and white spirit mix sort of "white/grey washes" the black color ? After the mix had dried, does it stay on or does it rub off easily ? Can you touch it without leaving fingerprints ?
  19. Been a long time since I saw a build of this kit. Looking forward to seeing you do your magic with it.
  20. Nice project, is that the Entex kit ? To keep distances and angles, you can make a jig to hold the parts in place and get the construction straight and square. Most parts will require sanding and polishing. Look at your photos, there are some parts that could use a couple of swipes with some sandpaper or a sanding block. Best of luck with this project. Sincerely Pascal
  21. Thx mates ! Been very busy making tiny parts. These parts need to be metal, so I used metal foil that's wrapped around the top of winebottles. First task was to remove the paint : I made the handle with my lathe. Started with a bigger diameter alu rod, because it's easier to cut the slit in the rod. The handle needs a bit more work to make it straight. With the lathe, I cut the rod to the correct diameter, also made the button on top in the same way. The triangular part that holds the handle was made from the metal foil. The Solido part is on the right : The handle will receive 2 eyeybolts. The thread and ring of the eyebolts will be removed : This part was also made from metal foil. Was a hard job to bend it into the correct shape, especially the tiny sides : The Solido part on the right is quite different : The 2 small holes will receive tiny 0,8 outer diameter open brass rivets. These rivets will hold the green cables. A family photo of the first parts : These reference photo show how everything fits together : For reference purpose only The roll cage gives me some big headaches. Both the roll cage and the interior were extensively modified. The result is that they no longer fit together without using some force. I broke off a piece of the roll cage during the endless dryfitting. Not to bad because it needs a bit more work at exactly the spot where it broke off : Another big headache is the dashboard. Solido had fixed the dashboard to the underside of the body. In order to fit all the pieces and cables, it needs to be fixed to the interior. Here's a dryfit, the 2 holes show how the dash was attached to the body : The underside of the dashboard also needs to be fixed to the diagonal tubes. I made a tray for it, but that's not on the photo : Here I inserted the left diagonal tube. The spacing between the tubes is to big, but that will be better when the left tube will be glued in place : And last but not least, the dashboard needs to fit snugly against the roll cage. At the moment that's another headache, tough it looks fine during the dryfit : It's gonna be a lot of work to fit the roll cage, dashboard, fire-extinguishers, cables and all the other tiny parts together. Wish me luck. Sincerely Pascal
  22. Love all the details that you put on this model, stunning result sofar.
  23. Thx for the replies. Mr. C, I hope it won't delay my Porsche/Ferrari projects. Progress on this Alpine will be slow, because I've only just started searching for reference-material. But still, I made some progress. I succeeded in taking apart the entire model. Had to cut the glass parts in two, to remove them from the body : The hinges could use some extra details : But modifying these will prevent the lids from opening. Not sure yet if I want to do that. I don't want to respray the body, because it looks really nice. Will give it a couple of coats of clearcoat and polish it to a "Concours d'élégance" finish. The only flaws are these vertical moulds lines, not worth respraying the entire body IMO : The brake discs are a bit odd. The side that's visible is flat (like the 1/1 car) : The other side has these holes : I haven't removed the brake discs yet, because they are mounted in typical Bburago fashion. If you pull them from the plastic tabs, they'll never fit properly again. The brake discs have a diameter of about 19mm, might make new one with the lathe so I can salvage the plastic ones for another model. Plenty of things to think about. Meanwhile here's a nice video of a restoration. My model is also a 1600 S : Sincerely Pascal
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