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Pascal

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Everything posted by Pascal

  1. I really need to find some more time for modelling. Update. Resin parts : Cylinder covers : Manifold : Drilled holes in the underside to attach the tubes : Tubes : Some plastic needs to be removed to make room for the tubes and covers : This lousy pic shows the back of the gearbox. I scratchbuild the master for this part, the Ferrari logo is visible with the naked eye : These triangular parts attach the gearbox to the frame : Inside the gearbox I fitted a terminal block, fixed in place with resin. The screw in the block allows me to hold the driveshaft in place, it also allows the gearbox to be moved about 5mm vertically, to change the ride height (I took some photos while I fixed the terminal block in place, but can't find them) : Sincerely Pascal
  2. Pascal

    'Codger' R I P

    I come back to the forum after a couple of weeks, and see this ... I'm truly devastated by this terrible news. Chas and I stayed in touch through emails, I was wondering why he hadn't replied to my last mail. You will be deeply missed Mr. C, may your next place be filled with gorgeous Pocher classics. Farewell my friend, thank you for the honor of being your friend. Pascal
  3. Always nice to see a 962. The livery you have chosen is really nice : It's a shame that both Tamiya and Hasegawa (reboxed by Revell) have failed in making a nice 962 kit. Personally, I prefer the Hasegawa kit. The front fenders need some major rework, but I prefer doing that then dealing with the fixed clear parts of the Tamiya kit. Are you gonna remove the engine cover from the body ? Would be a shame to hide all the details that you added. Sincerely Pascal
  4. Nice work. I could use one of those spines for my F-16D VISTA. Do you plan on selling any ?
  5. Mr argent-neuf-cent-onze (*) , Thank you for the wonderful photos of your stunning work. All those parts would make a great diorama. (*) Your username sounds good in French, like a character from a James Bond movie Sincerely Pascal
  6. Very nice work on the wheels. How do you respoke them ? Homemade jig ? What did you use for the spokes ? How did you drill the holes ? From the inside or the outside of the rim ?
  7. Hi Jim, Happy to help. If you have any questions about the F-40, please feel free to ask me. I'm a total F-40 maniac and know the car inside and out.
  8. Hi Jim, Maybe you can asked Tim K, if he still has the instructions of his 1/16 build : Your Revell kit is a rebox of the Italeri kit, but with some extra parts.
  9. Thanks for sharing ! Very interesting, so the talcum powder and white spirit mix sort of "white/grey washes" the black color ? After the mix had dried, does it stay on or does it rub off easily ? Can you touch it without leaving fingerprints ?
  10. Been a long time since I saw a build of this kit. Looking forward to seeing you do your magic with it.
  11. Nice project, is that the Entex kit ? To keep distances and angles, you can make a jig to hold the parts in place and get the construction straight and square. Most parts will require sanding and polishing. Look at your photos, there are some parts that could use a couple of swipes with some sandpaper or a sanding block. Best of luck with this project. Sincerely Pascal
  12. Thx mates ! Been very busy making tiny parts. These parts need to be metal, so I used metal foil that's wrapped around the top of winebottles. First task was to remove the paint : I made the handle with my lathe. Started with a bigger diameter alu rod, because it's easier to cut the slit in the rod. The handle needs a bit more work to make it straight. With the lathe, I cut the rod to the correct diameter, also made the button on top in the same way. The triangular part that holds the handle was made from the metal foil. The Solido part is on the right : The handle will receive 2 eyeybolts. The thread and ring of the eyebolts will be removed : This part was also made from metal foil. Was a hard job to bend it into the correct shape, especially the tiny sides : The Solido part on the right is quite different : The 2 small holes will receive tiny 0,8 outer diameter open brass rivets. These rivets will hold the green cables. A family photo of the first parts : These reference photo show how everything fits together : For reference purpose only The roll cage gives me some big headaches. Both the roll cage and the interior were extensively modified. The result is that they no longer fit together without using some force. I broke off a piece of the roll cage during the endless dryfitting. Not to bad because it needs a bit more work at exactly the spot where it broke off : Another big headache is the dashboard. Solido had fixed the dashboard to the underside of the body. In order to fit all the pieces and cables, it needs to be fixed to the interior. Here's a dryfit, the 2 holes show how the dash was attached to the body : The underside of the dashboard also needs to be fixed to the diagonal tubes. I made a tray for it, but that's not on the photo : Here I inserted the left diagonal tube. The spacing between the tubes is to big, but that will be better when the left tube will be glued in place : And last but not least, the dashboard needs to fit snugly against the roll cage. At the moment that's another headache, tough it looks fine during the dryfit : It's gonna be a lot of work to fit the roll cage, dashboard, fire-extinguishers, cables and all the other tiny parts together. Wish me luck. Sincerely Pascal
  13. Love all the details that you put on this model, stunning result sofar.
  14. Thx for the replies. Mr. C, I hope it won't delay my Porsche/Ferrari projects. Progress on this Alpine will be slow, because I've only just started searching for reference-material. But still, I made some progress. I succeeded in taking apart the entire model. Had to cut the glass parts in two, to remove them from the body : The hinges could use some extra details : But modifying these will prevent the lids from opening. Not sure yet if I want to do that. I don't want to respray the body, because it looks really nice. Will give it a couple of coats of clearcoat and polish it to a "Concours d'élégance" finish. The only flaws are these vertical moulds lines, not worth respraying the entire body IMO : The brake discs are a bit odd. The side that's visible is flat (like the 1/1 car) : The other side has these holes : I haven't removed the brake discs yet, because they are mounted in typical Bburago fashion. If you pull them from the plastic tabs, they'll never fit properly again. The brake discs have a diameter of about 19mm, might make new one with the lathe so I can salvage the plastic ones for another model. Plenty of things to think about. Meanwhile here's a nice video of a restoration. My model is also a 1600 S : Sincerely Pascal
  15. After seeing the wonderful builds of the Tamiya 1/24 Alpine's, I decided to make one myself. Not the 1/24 Tamiya kit, but this 1/16 diecast model made by Bburago quite a few years ago. Got this beauty for the great price of € 20 : Typically for Bburago are the opening doors, engine compartment and spare tyre compartment : Also typically Bburago is that not a single drop of glued is used, makes taking it apart a lot easier : The complete interior : Excellent base model to start with. Sincerely Pascal
  16. That's not a model, it's a work of art. I wonder how Mr Cox made the blinkers in front of the doors movable and how he managed to put a tiny light in them. Does it have an engine ? Or is the space used for the wiring and batteries ? Sincerely Pascal
  17. You give me too much credit Mr C, I've never worked with leather, nor have I ever respoked wire wheels. I have a 1/12 scale diecast Revell Ferrari 250 GTO in the stash that needs leather work and the Borrani wire wheels need to be respoked, this thread has a ton of tips & tricks how to do that. Sincerely Pascal
  18. Hi Mr C, What are brilliant thread ! I'm attentively going through this treasure trove and taking notes. There's so much to see and learn here. Thank you very much for sharing. Sincerely Pascal
  19. That's the perfect shine for a scale model. If it were more mirror-like, it would look like a toy, less of shine and it wouldn't look like metal. Top job Ron !
  20. Great documentary that shows plenty of details of the production process. It also shows what types of mould Ferrari uses to cast engines. Enjoy : Sincerely Pascal
  21. I knew I had heard of a similar problem, but it was a long time ago. Finally I remembered : About 30 years ago, I worked at a factory that made plastic faceted mirrors (used in motion-detection devices, the dectection beam "looks" into those mirrors to scan for movement) that were chromed or aluminized at another factory. I remember that after a few months we received a call from that other company, telling us that all workers had to wear gloves when handling the plastic mirrors (before they were chromed). They told us that some regulation stopped them from using a chemical that they used in the chroming process. Before that, fingerprints and things like dust were not a problem. But because they had to change the chemical, any contamination on the plastic was a NO GO. If your plastic wings were chromed before 1993, it's very possible that a same kind of chemical was used by Tamiya in the chroming process. What that chemical does is basically "eat" any grease and dirt, and it produces an ideal surface for the chrome to stick to, by leaving a sort of "film" or coating on the plastic. When that chemical was used on plastic, it was nearly impossible to remove it (at least in 1993) because no matter what they did the chemical kept sweating through any coating put on the plastic. A lot of cleaning products (like bleach) reacted with the chemical, and basically ruined the plastic surface for later treatment. Sincerely Pascal
  22. Indeed great that you found a way to solve the problem. Hadn't thought about using a ultrasonic cleaner, but it clearly works well. Can you ask your neighbour what kind of fluid he uses in his ultrasonic cleaner ? Sincerely Pascal
  23. Nice kit from Nunu Models. Indycals has decals if you want another livery.
  24. Very nice work ! For the tubing : I would use copper wire. A large diameter for the core and a small diameter that you wrap around the core. Secure both ends with a drop of CA glue. The tubing remains flexible, so you can bend it into any shape you want. Or you can go for this type of tubing. I would make that sort of tubing by wrapping very small strips of tape around a copper core. : Sincerely Pascal
  25. I think that the gloss/yellowish residue - leftover from the chrome removal - has (and still is) reacted with the bleach. This reaction causes the plastic to "sweat", and that gives you the result you see when you put on primer and the silver top coat. To stop the sweating of the plastic, I would try soaking the parts in brake fluid. Try it on a piece of chrome sprue first, the brake fluid should be able to remove the leftover residue and bleach from the chrome removal.
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