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About Pascal

  • Birthday 01/16/1970

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  • Location
    Houthalen Belgium
  • Interests
    Spitfires, Ferrari's

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  1. I got tired of dealing with the zamac, so I made this little cutie. Laser-cut wooden kit from Robotime, 145 parts. Photo from the Robotime website : Took me 2 days to build, I added some color variation using woodstain and permanent markers. Was a fun little project : The little part in the last photo has been corrected. Sincerely Pascal
  2. I really need to find some more time for modelling. Update. Resin parts : Cylinder covers : Manifold : Drilled holes in the underside to attach the tubes : Tubes : Some plastic needs to be removed to make room for the tubes and covers : This lousy pic shows the back of the gearbox. I scratchbuild the master for this part, the Ferrari logo is visible with the naked eye : These triangular parts attach the gearbox to the frame : Inside the gearbox I fitted a terminal block, fixed in place with resin. The screw in the block allows me to hold the driveshaft in place, it also allows the gearbox to be moved about 5mm vertically, to change the ride height (I took some photos while I fixed the terminal block in place, but can't find them) : Sincerely Pascal
  3. Pascal

    'Codger' R I P

    I come back to the forum after a couple of weeks, and see this ... I'm truly devastated by this terrible news. Chas and I stayed in touch through emails, I was wondering why he hadn't replied to my last mail. You will be deeply missed Mr. C, may your next place be filled with gorgeous Pocher classics. Farewell my friend, thank you for the honor of being your friend. Pascal
  4. Always nice to see a 962. The livery you have chosen is really nice : It's a shame that both Tamiya and Hasegawa (reboxed by Revell) have failed in making a nice 962 kit. Personally, I prefer the Hasegawa kit. The front fenders need some major rework, but I prefer doing that then dealing with the fixed clear parts of the Tamiya kit. Are you gonna remove the engine cover from the body ? Would be a shame to hide all the details that you added. Sincerely Pascal
  5. Nice work. I could use one of those spines for my F-16D VISTA. Do you plan on selling any ?
  6. Mr argent-neuf-cent-onze (*) , Thank you for the wonderful photos of your stunning work. All those parts would make a great diorama. (*) Your username sounds good in French, like a character from a James Bond movie Sincerely Pascal
  7. Very nice work on the wheels. How do you respoke them ? Homemade jig ? What did you use for the spokes ? How did you drill the holes ? From the inside or the outside of the rim ?
  8. Hi Jim, Happy to help. If you have any questions about the F-40, please feel free to ask me. I'm a total F-40 maniac and know the car inside and out.
  9. Hi Jim, Maybe you can asked Tim K, if he still has the instructions of his 1/16 build : Your Revell kit is a rebox of the Italeri kit, but with some extra parts.
  10. Thanks for sharing ! Very interesting, so the talcum powder and white spirit mix sort of "white/grey washes" the black color ? After the mix had dried, does it stay on or does it rub off easily ? Can you touch it without leaving fingerprints ?
  11. Been a long time since I saw a build of this kit. Looking forward to seeing you do your magic with it.
  12. Nice project, is that the Entex kit ? To keep distances and angles, you can make a jig to hold the parts in place and get the construction straight and square. Most parts will require sanding and polishing. Look at your photos, there are some parts that could use a couple of swipes with some sandpaper or a sanding block. Best of luck with this project. Sincerely Pascal
  13. Thx mates ! Been very busy making tiny parts. These parts need to be metal, so I used metal foil that's wrapped around the top of winebottles. First task was to remove the paint : I made the handle with my lathe. Started with a bigger diameter alu rod, because it's easier to cut the slit in the rod. The handle needs a bit more work to make it straight. With the lathe, I cut the rod to the correct diameter, also made the button on top in the same way. The triangular part that holds the handle was made from the metal foil. The Solido part is on the right : The handle will receive 2 eyeybolts. The thread and ring of the eyebolts will be removed : This part was also made from metal foil. Was a hard job to bend it into the correct shape, especially the tiny sides : The Solido part on the right is quite different : The 2 small holes will receive tiny 0,8 outer diameter open brass rivets. These rivets will hold the green cables. A family photo of the first parts : These reference photo show how everything fits together : For reference purpose only The roll cage gives me some big headaches. Both the roll cage and the interior were extensively modified. The result is that they no longer fit together without using some force. I broke off a piece of the roll cage during the endless dryfitting. Not to bad because it needs a bit more work at exactly the spot where it broke off : Another big headache is the dashboard. Solido had fixed the dashboard to the underside of the body. In order to fit all the pieces and cables, it needs to be fixed to the interior. Here's a dryfit, the 2 holes show how the dash was attached to the body : The underside of the dashboard also needs to be fixed to the diagonal tubes. I made a tray for it, but that's not on the photo : Here I inserted the left diagonal tube. The spacing between the tubes is to big, but that will be better when the left tube will be glued in place : And last but not least, the dashboard needs to fit snugly against the roll cage. At the moment that's another headache, tough it looks fine during the dryfit : It's gonna be a lot of work to fit the roll cage, dashboard, fire-extinguishers, cables and all the other tiny parts together. Wish me luck. Sincerely Pascal
  14. Love all the details that you put on this model, stunning result sofar.
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