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About Pascal

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 16/01/1970

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  • Location
    Houthalen Belgium
  • Interests
    Spitfires, Ferrari's

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  1. I've got some more updates to show, this is how I made the H-shaped support that holds the fan in place. A couple of reference photos that I took when the car was in France : I made the H-support out of brass sheet : It has 6 brass and 2 plastic parts : The white triangle will hold the motor of the fan : Dryfit : I used copper wire to make the "border" that's on the outside of the H-shaped support : Not my best work, but the 1/1 support on the real car is a bit rough as well. I might redo the border, cause I used CA to glue the wire in place. Soldering will give it a lot more strength and will allow me to sand the rough edges. Speaking of soldering : I made this with solder and a couple of brass tubes. Reference pic : My 1/8 scale version : Dryfit, I'm quite pleased with the result : Sincerely Pascal
  2. Thank you gentlemen, much appreciated. Yes Wayne, you are correct. Aluminium (or aluminum) will not stick to solder. It's a cheap and handy way of holding parts in place that you want to solder. Sincerely Pascal
  3. Very nice work Wayne. I'm a bit late, but here's a photo of a hose clamp as used on Ferrari cars : Sincerely Pascal
  4. I hope to have more free time in 2019, really would like to finish this build this year. One of the things that make this car unique are the vertical "fins" that are located just behind the front wheels : The fins come with this little PE-set from Legende Miniatures : There's no way I can glue these little pieces of flat PE to the body. So I soldered a couple of metal strips to the top and bottom : To hold the metal pieces in place, I clamped them on a piece of aluminium plate that was bend in a 90° angle. This way it was just a matter of putting some flux and solder on the joint, use the "creme brulee" torch and voila : a solid bond : Dryfit on the body : At the rear the shocks are attached to a "kidney" shaped piece of black plastic. The rod ends and tubes that I made earlier were to big, I couldn't fit them on the rear suspension without hitting the driveshaft. This time I used a tube of smaller diameter (about half of the first version) and soldered a tiny brass ring to a piece of copper wire to make the rod ends. I'll have to make a couple more cause the copper wire is not in the middle of the brass ring : The kidney shaped part received another hole, this will hold a hexgonal bolt : Turned the lid (3mm diameter) from an aluminium rod with my lathe : A dryfit shows the hexagonal bolt in the lid. The head of the bolt is 1mm wide, but's it's to big. I will replace it with a 0,8mm bolt : In the end, it should look like this : Sincerely Pascal
  5. Pascal

    Fiat 806gp full-scratchbuild 1:12

    Awesome work Harvey !
  6. Thx Harvey ! Update : The 333SP has a diagonal bar that sits in front of the big airscoop : Hotwheels made this bar run thru the airscoop in stead of in front of it. First task was to plug the hole : Then remove enough plastic to make room for the bar : I drilled a hole on the left side, made the strange contraption that holds the bar on the right side : Looks rough, needs some filler and sanding : Dryfit with the new bar : This (the clear part) is all that remains of the original Hotwheels side-window, I used my mill to make a ledge that will hold the new side-window : Sincerely Pascal
  7. Same here, sorry to hear about the accident, but if there's someone that can fix the damage : it's you. Best of luck mate, hope to see more updates soon. Sincerely Pascal
  8. Update. No matter how much detail you add to a model, the thing that will always draw everyone's attention is the body. Spend a lot of hour getting the fit between the engine lid and the body as tight as possible. The tiny gaps that are still there will be filled by the primer, paint and clear coats : I didn't like the way Hotwheels fixed the big plastic airscoop to the body. It was sealed to the body using heat, but it was fixed about 1,5 mm to far aft. I did quite a few modifications to the plastic airscoop (it's black plastic) and glued it in place. Then followed a couple of rounds of putty and sanding. It needs a bit more sanding to smooth out the gaps : Removal of more unwanted zamac. Before : And after : Small update, but the result of endless dryfitting and modifying. Sincerely Pascal
  9. Wow. They way you made the rims and tires, and the way you shaped that wood are just incredible. Great craftmanship !
  10. Beautiful ! What PE set did you use for the wire wheels ?
  11. Pascal

    Fiat 806gp full-scratchbuild 1:12

    Dear Mr. H. , I've spent a couple of hours examining your WIP. Had to replace my keyboad twice, because my chin destroyed it when my mouth fell open. This project is truly a work of art. You make it look so simple, but it's definitely NOT. I see some amazing scratchbuilding, very cleverly executed steps and SUBLIME craftsmanship ! One would think that seeing your work, would make me crawl in a dark corner and give up modelling forever. But your project is a GREAT inspiration, that motivates me to go the extra mile on my own projects. My hat's off to you sir, I stand in awe. Thank you for sharing this magnificent project. Sincerely Pascal
  12. Thx guys ! After fiddling with the tiny parts, I'm glad to work on something a lot bigger. Hotwheels made the side windows like this : Doesn't look to bad, but they've made the diagonal tube and the window as 1 piece. This wont allow me to paint the tube red, unless I do it the Hotwheels way and paint part of the window ?! On the real car the side windows look like this : (Pictures for reference only) Hard to see in the pictures, but the bottom of the window is fitted to the inside of the body, and the top of the window is fitted to a strip that's attached to the underside of the tube. This gave me quite a few headaches, but I found a way ... Start with the Hotwheels part : Introduce it to my Dremel : Use the milling machine to mill a channel in a plastic tube : Glue a plastic strip inside the channel (the holes for the rivets will be drilled later) : And do a dryfit : Still plenty of work to get the shape and details of the tube and frame right, but I'm very happy that it turned out OK. Arrivederci ragazzi. Pascal
  13. Work continues on the second handle. Here's a dryfit with the tube that runs to the back of the cockpit : I made the little ball (1,2 mm diameter) from a piece of alu sewing needle, total length of the handle is 7mm. Dryfit with the triangular base : The macro pictures show that the copper tubes (0,6 mm diameter) are not aligned, this has been changed after the picture was taken : The handle is adjustable : Sincerely Pascal
  14. I think it's quite the contrary. Back in the eighties a Pocher F40 was available for around 250 euros (216 pound sterling). The kit wasn't meant for modellers. It can be assembled without glue nor paint. You have to compare it to the 1/18 Bburago F40, which was at that time the only alternative. The BBurago was available for around 75 euros, but it looks like a poor detailed Matchbox next to it's big Pocher brother. As far as modellers are concerned, the kit was (and stilll is) a great base for adding details, aftermarket or scratchbuild. AND it is still a very nice kit for someone that has never build (assembled) a big scale model. Basically it was a GREAT kit. The only thing that went wrong is that Pocher went bankrupt and the prices have gone up to very silly levels. The Hornby / Pocher Lambo's are now available for 3 times the price of the original F40, but they look no where near 3 times as good as the venerable F40 kit. Just my 2 cents
  15. Thx H, so nice to see a reaction in my WIP Update : I had covered the dashboard with these decals : But the real car has a different type of carbon, so I scraped them off and replaced them with these : Spent a couple of hours fiddling with some tiny parts, like these : Those are very tiny open rivets, outer diameter : 0,8mm, inner : 0,6mm, length : 2,2mm. Three are visible in this photo, together with some other small parts : These will become the 2 handles that are attached to the center console : Dryfit of the first handle, it contains 5 tiny parts : Sincerely Pascal