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About Pascal

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 01/16/1970

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  • Location
    Houthalen Belgium
  • Interests
    Spitfires, Ferrari's

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  1. In order to close the bonnet properly, you have to remove the tabs (U-shaped with a hole near the round part of the U) that are on the left and right side of the bonnet opening. But I agree with Cooper645, remove the body from the chassis and cut away the parts that prevent the body from fitting over the chassis. I recommend sending an E-mail to Revell department X, with the photos of the warped body. They might still replace your faulty kit with a new one. It's worth a try. Sincerely Pascal
  2. Update : After months and months of headscratching, I've finally found a way to attach the kidney shaped parts to the gearbox. They need to be fixed to the gearbox at exactly the spot where there's a hole for the screw that attaches the gearbox to the chassis. I've trimmed a plastic part of an old aircraft kit so that it fits in the hole, the copper tube will hold that part in place while I drill the holes : Here I've drilled the first hole and inserted a piece of brass tubing that will hold the kidney shaped part in place : Dryfit : Not a lot of clearance between the diagonal torsion bar and the suspension arms, but the real car looks exactly the same : I'm really happy that I've finally found a solution, now I can move on with this project. Sincerely Pascal
  3. I can only imagine how many hours of head-scratching it took to get those pipes done. Those outer pipes are really hard to get right, they're shaped like a question mark. This would be a nice alternative, but I doubt that you can find these in the correct diameter : Sincerely Pascal
  4. This is an original Ferrari F40 LM exhaust system. Upside down to show you the front end of the pipes : This photo gives you an idea how the pipes bend towards the turbo's : For reference only And of course Michael Sheehan's website has great pics like this one : From Ferraris-online.com, for reference only
  5. The pipes will make a nice difference. Are you going full naked pipes ? : This site has some very nice photos : https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/pa19/paris/lots/r0085-1987-ferrari-f40-lm/740406 Or more a tubi style exhaust ? :
  6. You're getting there Wayne. Have you tried a smaller diameter sleeve / collar ? Judging from your photos I think you have some mm's to spare at the moment.
  7. Nice to see another Hasegawa / Revell 962 build. Perhaps the biggest flaw with this kit is the shape of the fenders above the front wheels. They curve inside too much, where they should be more or less parallel with the sides of the body. Sincerely Pascal
  8. Sadly no. It's safely packed in a couple of plastic boxes. During the build, I ran into a big problem : I thought that the engine, gearbox and rear suspension were attached to a tubular chassis like on a normal F-40. But the F-40 Beurlys doesn't have a chassis at all, it's basically a carbon fibre bathtub (with some steel frame inside I suspect, but that's not visible) to which the front and rear suspension, engine and gearbox are attached. I found that out while I was building the model (the real car had a major overhaul and that gave me some very nice reference pics) , but had no idea how to make the construction strong enough to carry all that weight. So I paused the build and it's been like that for a couple of years. But I will pick it up again one day, have had a number of ideas how to solve weight problem. First I have to get the whole silicone / rubber / resin thing sorted out (with my cute Porsche project), then I have to learn how to vacuform parts. When that is done I can finish the 1/18 scale Ferrari builds that I have going on, and then finally it's back to the 1/8 scale F-40's.
  9. Nice work Wayne, An alternative for tubing (to replace or modifiy the turbo tubes) is solid alu rod. It's cheap and much easier to bend then hollow tubing. I order mine from a flowershop, where they are used to decorate pots and plants.
  10. Update : All the bodies that I've made sofar have 1 big problem : the area around the windshield and windows. They have to be really thin to allow the 1 part windows to fit, but that makes them very fragile. I hope it will get better when I'm able to vacform the windows, but that's something I've never done before, so that will be another first. This photo shows the problem area : The body from the kit looks like this : So I made another mould (the "male" part this time). The rubber needs to harden 8 hours, fingers crossed that it will turn out all right. Good news : I've been fairly succesful in casting the rims / wheels. At the moment they're not all the same height, the will be corrected when the tires are done : The details came out pretty nice : But I'll need to make a new mould (with a harder rubber) to cast the other version of the wheels. Some tiny pieces of rubber broke off after 2 castings : I wasn't succesful in making a mould for the rubber tires, so I used my lathe and made the front tire from a nylon rod, the rear tire from a alu rod. I made the diameter a little bigger so that they fill the wheelopenings a bit more : Will make the mould for the tires this weekend, I hope that all goes well. Sincerely Pascal
  11. Been busy at work, but I have a couple of days off. Wasn't happy with the castings, figured that the reason was that the female part of the mold wasn't large enough. This caused the sides of the castings being to thick and bending outwards. I ordered some new silicone rubber and made a new female part, using the male part of the mold and some lego. Here it is after 8 hours : The new mold is a lot bigger, specially on the sides (doesn't show very well on this photo) : So far so good, but I made a couple of errors. The silicone was seeping through the lego blocks because I didn't put in pieces of cardboard or tape to line the inside. Took me almost 2 hours to get the mold out of the lego blocks. Then I decided to cast the first body, but forgot to spray the mold with a release agent. This was the result : And I spend the next couple of hours picking small chips of resin out of the mold. But there's good news ! I cut some excess rubber away from the male part of the mold, on the left the last casting from the old mold, on the right the first from the new : Old mold with all the imperfections on the side of the body : New mold (this is the broken body, glued together) : And this is the second body from the new mold, after some clean up : Still not perfect, the area at around the windshield needs some work. I think some modifications on the male part of the mold will help. Sincerely Pascal
  12. I've checked my references, had to go thru my 288 GTO and 288 Evoluzione photos to find the answer. The tube is not attached to the gearbox, but runs straight down (as you mentioned earlier). Took me some time to find what the tube does (I don't know a lot about engines / gearboxes). The tube is part of the gearbox breather system. A breather prevents pressure from building up inside the gearbox. Without a breather the pressure can cause oil leaks. The breather allows hot air to escape and fresh cooler air to come in. The breather is the part that looks like a hexagonal bolt (attached to the top of the gearbox housing). These photos are from a 288 GTO, but they show the breather and the tube : Sincerely Pascal
  13. Nice to see another F40 with the transkit being build. Good progress sofar. The small tube that you mentioned is not a drain. It is an oil bypass tube that leads oil from the forward part of the gearbox to the back of the gearbox. On the F40 diagrams and on "showcase" F40 engines, this tube is cut off at the bottom and leads nowhere. But it should be connected to the back of the gearbox. I'll check my references and hope to be able to tell you where exactly it connects to the gearbox. Sincerely Pascal
  14. The last 2 photos were found online (build log of the F40 BPR spec). I used to have a very large amount of reference photos (taken by a very kind F40 owner in the US), but lost nearly all of them when my PC crashed a couple of years ago. Sadly the owner has sold his F40, so that source is gone. I took a couple hundred photos myself, but those are of the F40 Beurlys. THE number 1 reference is the "back to life" DVD, made by the german who rebuild a crashed F40. Sincerely Pascal
  15. Hi Wayne, I think that your collars are to long and the stems of the eyebolts are to short, that's why to look a bit strange. A reference pic : Those hoses are not attached to the turbo's, but look at the length of the stems on the eyebolts. This pic shows the "eye-bolt" lines attached to the turbo's, same thing here, the stems of the eyebolts are quite long : Sincerely Pascal
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