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Pascal

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About Pascal

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 01/16/1970

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houthalen Belgium
  • Interests
    Spitfires, Ferrari's

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  1. Sadly no. It's safely packed in a couple of plastic boxes. During the build, I ran into a big problem : I thought that the engine, gearbox and rear suspension were attached to a tubular chassis like on a normal F-40. But the F-40 Beurlys doesn't have a chassis at all, it's basically a carbon fibre bathtub (with some steel frame inside I suspect, but that's not visible) to which the front and rear suspension, engine and gearbox are attached. I found that out while I was building the model (the real car had a major overhaul and that gave me some very nice reference pics) , but had no idea how to make the construction strong enough to carry all that weight. So I paused the build and it's been like that for a couple of years. But I will pick it up again one day, have had a number of ideas how to solve weight problem. First I have to get the whole silicone / rubber / resin thing sorted out (with my cute Porsche project), then I have to learn how to vacuform parts. When that is done I can finish the 1/18 scale Ferrari builds that I have going on, and then finally it's back to the 1/8 scale F-40's.
  2. Nice work Wayne, An alternative for tubing (to replace or modifiy the turbo tubes) is solid alu rod. It's cheap and much easier to bend then hollow tubing. I order mine from a flowershop, where they are used to decorate pots and plants.
  3. Update : All the bodies that I've made sofar have 1 big problem : the area around the windshield and windows. They have to be really thin to allow the 1 part windows to fit, but that makes them very fragile. I hope it will get better when I'm able to vacform the windows, but that's something I've never done before, so that will be another first. This photo shows the problem area : The body from the kit looks like this : So I made another mould (the "male" part this time). The rubber needs to harden 8 hours, fingers crossed that it will turn out all right. Good news : I've been fairly succesful in casting the rims / wheels. At the moment they're not all the same height, the will be corrected when the tires are done : The details came out pretty nice : But I'll need to make a new mould (with a harder rubber) to cast the other version of the wheels. Some tiny pieces of rubber broke off after 2 castings : I wasn't succesful in making a mould for the rubber tires, so I used my lathe and made the front tire from a nylon rod, the rear tire from a alu rod. I made the diameter a little bigger so that they fill the wheelopenings a bit more : Will make the mould for the tires this weekend, I hope that all goes well. Sincerely Pascal
  4. Been busy at work, but I have a couple of days off. Wasn't happy with the castings, figured that the reason was that the female part of the mold wasn't large enough. This caused the sides of the castings being to thick and bending outwards. I ordered some new silicone rubber and made a new female part, using the male part of the mold and some lego. Here it is after 8 hours : The new mold is a lot bigger, specially on the sides (doesn't show very well on this photo) : So far so good, but I made a couple of errors. The silicone was seeping through the lego blocks because I didn't put in pieces of cardboard or tape to line the inside. Took me almost 2 hours to get the mold out of the lego blocks. Then I decided to cast the first body, but forgot to spray the mold with a release agent. This was the result : And I spend the next couple of hours picking small chips of resin out of the mold. But there's good news ! I cut some excess rubber away from the male part of the mold, on the left the last casting from the old mold, on the right the first from the new : Old mold with all the imperfections on the side of the body : New mold (this is the broken body, glued together) : And this is the second body from the new mold, after some clean up : Still not perfect, the area at around the windshield needs some work. I think some modifications on the male part of the mold will help. Sincerely Pascal
  5. I've checked my references, had to go thru my 288 GTO and 288 Evoluzione photos to find the answer. The tube is not attached to the gearbox, but runs straight down (as you mentioned earlier). Took me some time to find what the tube does (I don't know a lot about engines / gearboxes). The tube is part of the gearbox breather system. A breather prevents pressure from building up inside the gearbox. Without a breather the pressure can cause oil leaks. The breather allows hot air to escape and fresh cooler air to come in. The breather is the part that looks like a hexagonal bolt (attached to the top of the gearbox housing). These photos are from a 288 GTO, but they show the breather and the tube : Sincerely Pascal
  6. Nice to see another F40 with the transkit being build. Good progress sofar. The small tube that you mentioned is not a drain. It is an oil bypass tube that leads oil from the forward part of the gearbox to the back of the gearbox. On the F40 diagrams and on "showcase" F40 engines, this tube is cut off at the bottom and leads nowhere. But it should be connected to the back of the gearbox. I'll check my references and hope to be able to tell you where exactly it connects to the gearbox. Sincerely Pascal
  7. The last 2 photos were found online (build log of the F40 BPR spec). I used to have a very large amount of reference photos (taken by a very kind F40 owner in the US), but lost nearly all of them when my PC crashed a couple of years ago. Sadly the owner has sold his F40, so that source is gone. I took a couple hundred photos myself, but those are of the F40 Beurlys. THE number 1 reference is the "back to life" DVD, made by the german who rebuild a crashed F40. Sincerely Pascal
  8. Hi Wayne, I think that your collars are to long and the stems of the eyebolts are to short, that's why to look a bit strange. A reference pic : Those hoses are not attached to the turbo's, but look at the length of the stems on the eyebolts. This pic shows the "eye-bolt" lines attached to the turbo's, same thing here, the stems of the eyebolts are quite long : Sincerely Pascal
  9. Hi Wayne, If you need to install small bolts and nuts in tight spaces, there's a way to "fake it". Don't use a bolt and a nut, but use a piece of threaded rod and 2 nuts. Use tweezers to hold the first nut in place (at the back of the flange), screw the threaded rod into the nut, put on the other flange and screw on the second nut. Sincerely Pascal
  10. Stunning work Serkan. The drawings / templates that you made, would be a great help for anyone trying to do the same conversion. Are you planning on selling your drawings ? Sincerely Pascal
  11. Your last photo is visible.
  12. Good luck Dan. Great work ! Sincerely Pascal
  13. For the muffler, I recommend Vallejo Metal Color 77.723 Exhaust Manifold.
  14. Hi Wayne, here are some pics. The muffler : Turbo's : The Pocher F40 is a "non cat , non adjust" F40, meaning that it has none of both. Here's a pic of a cat F40 : Sincerely Pascal
  15. Hi Wayne, Very nice work ! Dont worry about the solder on the muffler. The 1/1 scale F40 mufflers have some weld seams that are quite visible. Will post some pics later today. Sincerely Pascal
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