bootneck

I've already sent the file but I've just checked and can only save to the following filetypes: . Edit: found a way to do Tiff and sent the file again cheers Mike

Thanks, I'll do that. I have drawn the images in Inkscape so they are .svg format. I did save them as .jpg but I saw a loss of detail that way. Perhaps if I save them in .png format. I'll have a play, perhaps there's and inbuilt converter to .psp, and then send them over. cheers Mike EDIT: there is a definite drop in quality when I save and print in .jpg or png, the edges are blocked like a bitmap image. I'll have a go at printing it from Inkscape onto glossy photo paper, then scan it at hi-res and finally save it as a .jpg.

Thanks Brian, I'll have a look at the extent of my project (early days) and let you know. I am keen to know about the buildings around and, possibly with a 30km range from Arromanches. The idea being I'd like to do a diorama of vehicles in or passing through a town or village in that area. It may even be around the outskirts of such, so possibly anything like that. Another query, do you know of any sources of maps depicting that area at that time? Thanks again Brian Mike

Thanks again. Sorry, I meant pre-war buildings. I'm already working on Black Knight's advice to see if I can produce something workable Thanks again everyone Mike

Hi Paul, couple of points, the decal I want to produce (the 892NAS flash as already shown) takes up the whole width of the tail so that doesn't leave room to have an edge around the decal I've been looking at lasers but they don't sem to have as much density, 600 x 600 or 1200 x 600 is the typical choices. Other poster's comments appear to sway away from laser for decals. I've seen mention of getting silk screen printed decals made; do you know of anybody who does this on a single item/sheet basis? I may just get someone else, who knows what they are doing, to produce them for me. cheers Mike

Thanks, yes I've seen loads of photos but the figures I've seen didn't appear to be directly beside the buildings, hence I couldn't make a positive assumption on dimensions. Your details on the doors is most helpful. I've also used the similar methods for measuring other items such as hangars and masts but I've used drawing programs rather than print out and ruler. I find a 'known' reference point and then cut/copy that element and move it around the rest of the image to identify lengths and widths etc. The problem I'm having with French/European buildings, up to the end of WW2, is not knowing their building dimension rules. If we could identify what their architectural standards were then it would be easy to work out building dimensions from photo's including oblique views. cheers Mike

Does anyone here have any data, or know of sources, on how to identify French buildings (mostly town and village types, not cities.) dimensions? I'm trying to identify/measure the heights of the first, second and three storeys, plus general roof (from gutter) heights etc. Same for doors, windows and stable doors etc. The plan is to make a couple of buildings in a French town or village setting, as part of the allied move through France 1944, but need these details in order to make the walls and fascias to scale etc. cheers Mike

I've been using a wide Tamiya type of tape until now but that meant I had to place it in situ on the model first, as in the image below. That Kabuki paper looks to be what I want as it means that I can prepare the model first then apply my cut masks later. cheers Mike The top model shows some masks cut from tape with the inner numbers pieces removed and this method used for painting deck numbers, the rest of the deck would be taped up first and then the numbers painted. The lower model shows same tape piece but the inner number masks have been left in place and the surrounding tape removed; this would be to protect the (pre-painted) number colour underneath whilst painting the deck.

Those look to be just the thing, thanks for the info. Mike

I've just started having a go at cutting my own masks but I don't have the proper materials. So far I am using wide Tamiya type tape but I'd like to have a go with proper mask material, with the peel off backing. Can anyone here advise me where I could obtain these sheets please? Mike

Pictures received and pm replied; thanks very much Mike

Thanks, I've seen them but they appear to be too dark or grainy to get any real detail for modelling from them. If you've found one that has good lighting and detail can you let me know the title/version? cheers Mike

Thanks Leigh, next time I have reason to pop up to the nearest Halford's (not one local) then I'll pick a can up. cheers Mike

Hi Paul, got the scans thank you. I'm still looking for more detail/data if anyone can provide such. Also, Eagle, Hermes, Centaur, Bulwark and Albion (and possibly the Majestic's) had virtually the same lift structures so anything from those could be useful also. I think the underneath (deck) of the lift wells were of slatted girders which stood on their sides to about a foot high. I seem to remember ladders and other odd items stowed in those spaces. Yes, the sick bay was on 4 deck where the lift could stop in the upper part of the lower hangar (no wonder people get confused on ships!). Forward off the lift and then immediately left into the "Surgical Dressing Room", with the main ward and operating theatre further along and left again. I didn't spend any time on Ark Royal, (although, with all the researching I've been doing, I feel I could find my way around her quite easily now!) but I did spend time on Albion, Bulwark and Hermes; with a posting to Intrepid also. Thanks again for those images Mike

Thanks for the advice Roy. The question now seems to be, which brand of spray varnish does everyone (who makes decals with Inkjets) recommend? Mike

I'm looking for images, or links to them, of the lift well areas on HMS Ark Royal IV. My main interest is to view the lift machinery/chains especially down the sides of the well and any other details such as the racks and shelving immediately inside the hangar areas from the lift. My plan is to make a small dio of this area with the lift lowered. Grateful to receive any info, images or links to sources. Cheers Mike

Thanks Old Man, I'm not in any rush so giving the print a week to dry is not a problem and I'll give that a try. I've just tried an experiment; I used Humbrol gloss varnish and then, after it had dried, put it into water and removed it then slid it onto a model but it just curled up into a tight ball and won't undo! I've experienced this in the past with Micro Sol and just left it to uncurl itself but this is never going to unravel! Mike

I'm sure you are right Graham. I just didn't want to go out and buy some spray if it wasn't going to work. cheers Mike

Thanks all, I have a Brother LC1240 and it does produce some really vibrant colours but that's not going to help if I can't seal in the artwork. I'll give the varnish spray a try. Mike here is a scan (so image quality reduced) of the sheet of 1:144 Phantoms I'm trying to seal.

Thanks Neil. I may look to getting a laser printer just for decals. I'll see what the January sales are offering. If anyone has a laser printer that they find is good for decals, could they give some advice here please. Only got a small budget though so no top-of-the-range stuff please. Thanks Mike

I have drawn up a set of markings which I want to make decals for and have an inkjet printer so bought a sheet of Inkjet Decal Paper and printed the images. So far everything looks good, however the next stage says to coat the decal with Microscale Liquid Decal Film. I don't have any in spray form so I used a wide soft brush and gently applied the decal film. As soon as the liquid touched the decal the colours all ran! I thought perhaps I was too heavy-handed so I did a test, I just dropped a tiny amount of film from a pipette but still the same effect. The image was printed over an hour ago and was completely dry before I started this. Help!

Excellent! I think that is absolutely impressive. Mike

I bought a copy from the Casemate stand at SMW 2014. Just couldn't resist it after looking through a couple of pages; and the plans are just the best. I fully endorse Dave's review. Mike

Thanks DG, the paragraph about the dimensions is most useful! "The Soviet Union began building its first concrete airfield pavements in 1931-1932. These were constructed using unreinforced concrete hexagons 1.2m (48in) long per side and 100 to 140mm (4 to 5.5in) thick. As aircraft became heavier, the hexagon length was increased to 1.5m (60in) and thickness increased up to 220mm (8.8in). These unreinforced hexagonal slabs often had problems with rocking and spalling, and as modern concrete placement equipment became available after 1950, rectangular cast-in-situ pavement slabs became more common." Mike

My intention is to make my own individual slabs, by drawing them and saving to file. That way they will be scaleable and I can cut them out in plastic sheet with my cutting machine. This is the main reason that I am looking for actual dimensions of a real thing. By making a drawing/diagram I can make different layouts, at varying scales if I want, and then just overlay the slabs to conform with the layout I've chosen. Once I am happy with the layout I can then paint the slabs, glue them down and add any surroundings etc. ready for the aircraft to be added in a dio. cheers Mike