Ebf2k

I was just going to suggest regenerating the STL file. I had not seen that before until last night when I went to slice a file in Chitubox. There was this large disc shape around the entire model but only when viewing from one specific angle. I definitely did not design that. I just re-exported the STL and the problem went away, Also, for your tire, you don't really need any supports other than those on the bottom, and especially not those on the upper face like in the screen shot. Print the tire vertically, not on an angle,, and you should't have to support anything at all except along the bottom. The center axle hub should print fine as well, but you could put one support near the outer edge, at the bottom of the circle if needed. Things like the axle nut and the rim of the wheel don't need any support at all.

Go for as high a polycount as you can handle with regards to file size and CPU power for slicing. If the poly count is low, in extreme cases you could see those polys in the printed model. I always design in the scale I intend to print. This is particularly important for smaller scales and small detailed parts. In many cases you will need to take artistic license with the dimensions of things you are printing because of the limitations of the print medium. It will vary depending on the printer, resin, orientation, etc. but you will soon find the limitations of your printer set up. For example, I tend to make any free-standing details, like individual bolt heads, panel gaps, etc. no smaller than 0.05mm. For sheet like surfaces (e.g. rocket or bomb fins, stabilizers, doors) I try to make them no thinner than 0.2mm. If you simply scale down a full scale model in your slicer, you might have problems with the smaller features. Use whatever works for you. I use Fusion360 because I primarily work on hard surface models, and I find it easy to visualize and build models using the sketch/extrude process. It also lends itself to working off blueprints and scale drawings. Some other people prefer other methods, and especially for things that Fusion360 isn't great at, like softer surfaces such as seat cushions, flat tires, and figures.

I don't have one of those printers, but I do use Fusion 360. I'm curious how it will turn out.

You can also try a gig site like Fiverr.

Great results!

Also try rotating the model left/right as well as front/back like you have, so no mesh parts are printing parallel to the build plate. Support around the border, and possibly on the larger cross beams if you need additional stability.

Let us know your results!

For gluing the large parts like wing to fuselage, You might want to consider using some epoxy, depending on how big the parts are. Note that I have never worked with an ABS plastic model. For a styrene or 3D resin model to fill in large gaps, a few recommendations: fill gap with styrene card trimmed to fit to make gap smaller, then can fill in remaining gaps with putty or filler as usual There are sandable CA glues, most are black. mix in some baking powder with thinner CA glue, makes it sandable, but less bonding strength.

What kit are we talking about? Do you have pictures? I'm not sure how plastic bands are going to help.

I have the same enclosure as you, I just turned it sideways so it fits 2 printers. I have a Chitu Systems Resin 3D Printer Mini Heater placed in the back of the enclosure between the printers, and it keeps the whole enclosure heated. I like it because you can set the temperature and it has a timer.

For some very small parts, I have had success with PVA glue, even thinned a bit. It will hold small parts; I don't use it for anything structural.

I must say even as a Phrozen fan boy, the specs of those Elegoo printers look really interesting. How does this tilt release work? I'm wondering how the peel forces will be different compared to the standard lift release I'm used to and work around.

When I work with small parts like this, I leave them on the base, and make sure the base is big enough to not fit through the openings in the basket. I also print a handle on the base to make it easier to handle during washing and curing. Kind of wasteful on the resin though...

I agree with the last two suggestions. If it were me, I would look online for factory drawings or blueprints to start with and then model it from there. It doesn't look too complex, but it does require some skill with 3D modelling and time. Maybe find someone on Fiverr to model it for you? Alternatively, it doesn't look too hard to scratch build, and the striped paint job will distract a viewer from seeing mistakes.

It looks good to me! Side question: Not being a barbed wire expert, are the wires braided or a single strand? Would you be able to tell in 1/35 scale? Would not be too much harder to make it braided if required.