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Maximilian

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  1. Nitrile gloves from Harbor Freight, especially considering I’m shooting lacquer-based paints. In fact, I’m down to a box, time to put the shopping list together!
  2. Shied away from any solvents. Stuck with the kimwipes, Febreeze duster and just air from the airbrush. It seems to do a reasonably good job. Maybe a soft makeup brush for any recessed areas that the airbrush can’t dislodge.
  3. I had the no-name free brush which came with my compressor and had unending splatter issues, regardless of experimentation with thinning and pressure. Switched to the Eclipse HP-CS and it made most of the issues go away and allowed me to actually fine tune the mixture/technique. It was a big investment up front but arguably worth it, IMHO. Hobby Lobby almost sold it to me for 1/10 its cost, but that’s another story altogether.
  4. Bondo spot & glazing putty mixed into a soup with Mr. Color Thinner. Paint over the gouged surface gently and let the lacquer thinner level out. Sand gently through the grits starting at 1K. This process plus a good primer will make easy work of it.
  5. I’ve found kimwipes to be very good at clearing the filler overspray from primer to leave the surface smooth to the touch. They don’t leave fibers and won’t easily scratch the primer. You can also use them between paint layers assuming it’s dry to the touch.
  6. Hey all, I am curious about how best to prep the surface for paint after priming. I used Mr. Surfacer 1500 and MLT in a 40/60 ratio and let it cure for a few days. Coming back this weekend to throw some paint on the thing. I used kimwipes to knock back most of the overspray, but there was still dust on the model so I very delicately used an antistatic dusting want to suck up most of the swarf and dust. However, I’m curious if you can use a cotton cloth and IPA to clean the surface? I would expect the cured primer to resist the IPA? I plan to use the airbrush to dust the model a final time before spot priming/painting. Any thoughts or insights are appreciated.
  7. I'm in love with this, the woodgrain detail looks fantastic. This is a great way to break up the monotony of aircraft finishes; I'm coming back to the hobby and one thing I've noticed is how samey a lot of the detailing can be. I like left-field ideas like this, thanks for sharing it with us!
  8. Are you building the old Airfix 1/72 kit? I’ve put the Tamiya 1/72 in my stash but I’m not allowing myself to undo the shrinkwrap until I button up this kit as I know I’ll get distracted.
  9. Curious if you’re building a specific BuNo. or replicating a specific air wing or period. I’m currently working on the ‘76 Airfix kit and going with the Navy markings included from VF-213. Most references I’ve seen indicate the outer pylons were bare, drop tanks on the middle pylons and AIM-9s on the inner pylons, with the NAVCOM pack on centerline.
  10. Hey folks. Seems like a lot of Texans are finding there way here, myself included. I’ve been looking for an active, engaging forum for modelers for a bit and y’all fit the bill. I’m coming back to the hobby after an extended break; I don’t think I’ve completed a model since 1996 or so. I attempted a return about a decade ago but didn’t have the disposable income to do it at the level I always wanted to. Primary areas of focus are aircraft and sci-fi, but I love the concept of dabbling and cross-training (so to speak), so you might even get an AFV out of me (does Gunpla count?). Anyway, glad to be here and hope to show you my finished F4D Skyray here in a bit. Will be good to get one in the bag before rolling on to the already-absurd stash I’ve started.
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