lifeofbrian

The Artool Ultra mask works perfectly, zero bleed and safe to remove yet sticks well.

Thanks for the tips. That Oramask looks suspiciously like the Artool Ultra mask I bought, which seems very good, I'll know tomorrow after I get airbushing. I stuck it on the other day and it holds well yet peels off easy. Cheers.

Really great diorama.

Love the idea, nice work.🤠

Large camo patterns. for an F-105 1/48 at the moment. I've ordered some Artool Ultra mask sheet, I'll see how that works out but I obviously don't want to keep wasting money trying things, I'd much rather have someone tell me what works. This is what I made for the Thud, tracing the manual.

I have frisket film but it's not tacky enough.

I have some on an lexan RC car window. I tried to remove it with Tamiya X-20A thinners but it didn't do the job.

I know this has been covered a million times which is why it's so hard to find the answer I'm looking for without trolling through a million posts.

That's what I use, If I don't use the red one straight away any touch and they can come away. I've tried giving a few coats to try and get rid of the silvering but no luck, I'll smother the thing in clear.

I coated the model in 3 coats of gloss before I applied the decals, but they are so silvery, and very dry too, they fall off very easy. I've used decal softener, but they are very bad.

I'm building the Academy F-117 and the decals are horrid, very obvious backing. I know some models are finished in matt, but does it make a difference some how if you first coat with gloss?

I'm am getting the Revell 1/48 Playboy Tomcat donated to me by my nephew, I believe it an evaluation aircraft, which I have no interest in, so I would like to convert it to a carrier born squadron if it's easy and cheap enough. Does anyone have any tips for me. I can find very little info about the model. Cheers.

Matt paints and I put three coats of WE on. Cheers.

I always use Tamiya to thin, I am doing some testing on a scrap sheet of styrene, the paint that I though was wrong was a much lighter coat and I did manage to scratch that off, but only with a tooth pick, it wouldn't budge with a brush, maybe that's just the Worn Effects. I'll try again with hairspray. Cheers.

I tried for the second time today to do chipping using this combination with little or no luck. I have done successful chipping before using hairspray and Vallejo paints. Has anyone else had this problem with Tamiya paints and the hairspray technique. I know the Vallejo paints are known for peeling anyway, so they're perfect for chipping, although they can take a little more off than you want sometimes.

Yeah Tamiya is my go to paint, I have a few paints that are very close, I think I'll do some testing on some scrap styrene.

I asked on that site, but the question was deleted, I guess it's a trade secret.

These look very close to my eye. H309 H66. What do you think? Very similar to USAF Vietnam era colours which I have.

Colours.

Here's the famous Chris Wauchop version, I can't find what paint is used here, any ideas? Any help with the exact paint used would be great.

I need it for Skyraider bombs, I just noticed that Tamiya have two Olive Drabs. XF62 and XF74. Cheers.

This was the one I liked from that site: I found the decals for your one I think.

It shouldn't be there? Did they not have them? War thunder is lying to me.

What is that thing under the turret? Is it for moving the antenna? It's about the only accessory I've never seen in 1/16.

Yeah, you can get masks from Germany. The F2 is practically the same as the G isn't it? The only problem is, most decals and masks seem to be for desert paint and I want either Panzer Grey or camo.