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NMS Models

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About NMS Models

  • Birthday 07/28/1990

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    New Mexico

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  1. A masterwork of a Hellcat! This one is on my bucket list so I'll definitely be stealing some ideas taking inspiration from your build right here!
  2. Next in line for assembly was the cockpit. After getting all the components cut, cleaned, pre-assbled, and painted, we reach this point: The floor was painted with RLM66 before all the other components were added on top (chairs, rudder, pedals, control yolk, etc.) and weathered with a nice layer of dirt from dry-pigments. These early model Ju 87 planes would often fly upwards of four to five missions a day to give the impression that the German Luftwaffe was much larger than it actually was. That leaves precious little time to clean out the interior when everyone is busy fueling and re-arming the aircraft. The sidewalls were painted in RLM02, with the various bits of equipment painted RLM66. The pilot's seat is armored, and the metal plating had a bluish tinge to it from my references. I replicated this using Vallejo Gunmetal Blue mixed with some Black (the original blue shade was too light), and the seat liners were made of leather. I do still need to do some weathering work on the seat leather. The center divider with the radios is here. The cords were replicated using .5mm copper wire. Beneath the radios is a shelf and a case for holding maps and charts and any other paperwork the crew would need. The leather strap was made using strips of masking tape painted leather brown. The black box next to the map case is the battery for the radios, which was black. To get the worn effect on the edges, I used Aluminum enamel paint that was dry-brushed with a very stiff brush. The gunner's seat, which was pretty simple and none too comfortable. You can see the adjustment spring underneath, as well as the central support beam. More stowage is available on the right-hand side of the seat, and fire suppression is on the left. Ammunition for the rear-mounted MG-15 was stored on two racks just aft of the gunner's seat. The setup in the plane made it very easy to reload; place the empty drum into the discard case on the right, get a new drum from the rack on the left, load and cycle the gun, and you were ready to fire again. The drums were painted Vallejo Gunmetal Gray with Tamiya Buff for the carrying strap on top. The Starboard sidewall was largely devoted to electrical panels and the various circuit breakers. Some additional wires and tubes were added using various widths of lead wire. The circuit breaker panels are in the front, and the power supply for the radios is in the back. The port sidewall is where all the flight controls are located, including the throttle controls in the front, and the flap and trim controls just behind it. Not much dirt to speak of on the sidewalls, but I did use a black wash to help highlight shadowing in the edges where the plane's skeleton can be seen. Some additional levers were also added to both sidewalls using plastic rod/card bits and PVA glue to add the rounded edge. Once I am happy with the details and weathering of each section of the cockpit, I can start bringing everything together. As I do, I add any further details that need both the walls and floor to be in place, including the wires supplying power to the radios (these were braided and replicated with sewing thread) Another angle of the radios to help illustrate what is going on. The details on the panels are a bit crude but without access to any PE upgrades for these bits they will have to do. Overall profile of the cockpit with the starboard sidewall attached. I have also added the straps that the gunner would use to give himself back support if he needed it using lead wire bent into appropriate shapes and tape strips, which were painted with Tamiya Buff. The second sidewall goes on once the wiring for the radios is done, and with it the addition of the other side of the back support strap. And that completes the cockpit tub. The main instrument panel will be added a bit later, but at this point I am ready to slip it inside the fuselage halves.
  3. It's really interesting to look at how the Lancaster evolved from the Manchester; keeping the overall airframe design, but changing engines from the Vulture to the Merlin and adding two more to get to the Lancaster. They're so similar that he fuselage received almost no changes (the turrets got shifted around and updated, though). Great build!
  4. Love the rigging, must've taken a while to get it all done. Nice job on the weathering too, it definitely looks the way I imagine old WWI planes to look. EDIT: Also noticed the roundele on the top wing showing through a bit on the bottom surface to simulate the bleed-through of light on the fabric wings. Very slick.
  5. The nose section is now largely complete, awaiting only final cleanup of the assembly to remove any unwanted seams and imperfections. Plus any additional details should they come up. The top cowling is removable to allow for a view of the engine inside. There were no support beams holding that cowling's shape, just for the lower cowlings. The front grill for the coolant radiator (the propeller is not yet permanently fixed to the plane, it would be really stupid for me to paint it and then put myself into a position to have to paint it again). You get a pretty good view of the details in the engine with the cowlings removed. I will need to polish up that seam line in the front. The feed hoses for the oil cooler lead to the main oil tank behind the firewall, and back into the engine to lubricate the cylinders. Looking in from behind the radiator, we can see the backside, the suction line, and the piston rods that raise and lower the cowl-flaps. The top can be displayed on or off. Next step will be to assemble the cockpit and rear-gunner's compartment.
  6. At long last, I managed to psyche myself up, take out my razor-saw and bring my A-game in precision cutting, and get things done. My two-piece cowlings are now four-piece cowlings, and with careful assembly, it will now be possible to display the model with engine cowlings on or off. So now all that work I did on the engine won't be wasted by having the whole thing hidden away in an impermeable plastic case.
  7. Looks just like the photo. Nice job, love me some old Soviet aircraft!
  8. Most of my day today has been getting the bomb trapeze corrected, as the Trumpeter kit supplied the wrong ones, intended for later model D and G Stukas. On earlier model Stukas the trapeze looked like this: I still have some surfacing work to do on them as they're a bit rough still, but a couple passes with wet putty and Mr. Surfacer should sort that out. I need to be careful not to overdo the putty, though, as these are a bit too fragile to sand.
  9. Beautiful rendition of the Twotter, and very creative making it an antarctic transport aircraft with the skids for landing on ice. Regardless of how difficult the work was on it, it was well worth the effort. Great looking plane!
  10. Painting up the engine today. The Ju 87 was equipped with a Junkers Jumo 211D engine. I'm only going to be loosely following the color guide in the instructions as it is not very accurate to the actual engine, and I'll be basing my color choices off of reference photos: (I'm a bit paranoid about copyright so any images I lifted from the internet I'm just leaving a link for, I'm not posting them directly) https://www.nationalmuseum.af.mil/Visit/Museum-Exhibits/Fact-Sheets/Display/Article/195796/junkers-jumo-211d/ First, the parts are readied for spraying using alligator clips or (if the former is not feasible) masking tape mounted onto popsickle sticks. Each piece gets a color flag as a reminder of which color the part will be sprayed. These are the colors being used, a mix of Tamiya, AK Real Colors, and Alclad II (for the metal bits) The front piece needed two different colors, so a quick masking job was applied: After spraying: Next step is to detail-paint with enamel colors, and I eventually end up here: The oil cooler is then attached, and a thick lead wire is used to represent the feed tube This CA accelerator is great for this kind of work, if you can get some it is highly recommended: I then give the engine a brown wash before applying some grease and oil to the metal bits to make them look used: And we end the day attaching the engine to its supports and securing it in place on the firewall:
  11. One of my favorite regional passenger planes, looking forward to this one.
  12. I'll be watching this one with great interest. I've seen a couple Zoukei-Mura kits before and the detail they offer is staggeringly good. Having you build the entire engine including the internals is something else!
  13. Normally I cut all the parts from the sprues and clean them up before starting the build, but this is not going to be feasible for this model; there's just too many parts. So I'll be going section by section with the cutting and cleaning instead. Once the parts are clean, assembly can begin. There are no guide pins on the engine block parts. To help the engine block align properly, I insert some plastic card tabs into the bottom. This bit had a lot of parts involved, the numbers are all recorded on the piece of tape next to the assembly. Up above are the assemblies for the supercharger, main air intake, and fuel-injection manifold. Sanding the oil cooler prior to prepare it for gluing photo-etch to ensure there are no seams. PE parts are secured in place with CA glue, as poly cement doesn't work on metal. Ready to paint
  14. Great job! The canopy looks great, I kinda like the effect of the parts being slightly smaller, since it gives emphasis to the canopy, which was expertly painted and well worth showing off.
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