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AndySG

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  1. Hi all. Does anyone on here use Hataka blueline paints? If so which varnish do you use? I’ve used Humbrol gloss clear on 2 kits now and it really doesn’t seem to go down well, it’s as if the paint doesn’t allow the varnish to self level and creates a surface tension barrier. Another varnish I’ve tried is mig ammo’s lucky varnish but that seems to lift/damage the first layer of varnish that you apply. I’m trying to avoid rattle cans as I live in a flat and the toxicity of that sort of thing doesn’t appeal!! The varnish aspect of modelling is sooo frustrating!! Thanks in advance Andy
  2. Paul and 112 thanks for your replies. I have done a Fujimi high backed spit xiv and did quite enjoy it. One thing that was not so great was the mirror on the canopy which was a bit naff as well as the tail wheel. Hopefully some one will manufacture a really good kit soon!
  3. Thanks Finn...yes, disappointing is the word! I guess I'll have to try and give it a shot...not great when you consider the cost of these kits nowadays.
  4. Thanks Will. The actual floor with pedals is similar but the instrument panel is different. Where the 2 tabs are on your instrument panel this has a more block like arrangement. The floor simply doesn’t fit in any way properly to the instrument panel housing plus the instructions indicate a tab on the floor to lip onto the panel housing. That isn’t there either! I don’t like cutting up kits to force them fit as such but guess I’ll have to. If you have a chance have a look at your sword kits and see if you have something similar.
  5. Thanks for the reply Graham. I think I was hoping that this kit would be a bit more plain sailing but I guess not!
  6. Hi. Apologies if this post or something similar has come up before. I have the 3 in 1 set of Mk XIV spitfires by Sword. I saw great reviews about the quality of Sword spitfire kits and thought I'd take the plunge a little while back. However, started to build one the other day and I've been a bit disappointed by it. Most notably the cockpit set up is a real fiddle and the parts for the floor and instrument panel don't appear correct in anyway.....have others come across this as well? do I just have faulty kits? or is this just accepted and good modellers (of which I am not one!) just take it in their stride.
  7. Thanks for your reply, sorry mine's a bit late but your response much appreciated!
  8. I would like them do a high backed MK XIV. For me, this is a real missing part in the whole spitfire story! I'd like Eduard to do it but I've also written to Airfix saying what about a dogfight doubles type set with a V1 rocket!
  9. Thanks for that. I did wonder whether the current humidity levels etc might effect it. I’ve seen the club in Romsey and like the idea of visiting one evening, I’ll be sure to come along. Thank you.
  10. Thank you. I’ll try fiddling around with thinner quantities as Rob has also suggested. I’ll try a flow improver on it own as well.
  11. Will do, thank you for the advice…I’ll give a go this weekend
  12. Hi Casey. No, not glossy. Just smooth. I haven’t tried a flow improver though. Would a retarder help as well? Yes, Migammo are water based acrylics.
  13. Hi Rob. That’s my understanding of the problem and I’ve tried changing things up but unsuccessfully so far.
  14. Hi. I’m new to the site and only been modelling a couple of years. My favourite interest is 1/72 and 1/48 WWII aircraft. My question(s) have a common theme with other newcomers but I’m still unclear with some of the techniques regarding painting/spraying smooth coats. I’ve mainly used a paint brush till now but have now acquired a cheap airbrush. One thing I’m trying to nail down is an even smooth finish (brush or airbrush for that matter). Is it common practice to gently sand down between coats of primer and paint? With my airbrush I get a very slight grainy finish regardless of distance I hold it from the model or whether the paint thinned. If so what grade of mesh/sanding paper is ideal? I use migammo paints and I understand that you start with light misting coats if airbrushing. How long between layers should I leave and do I strip clean my airbrush between coats? I have been cleaning the airbrush fully after each light coat and it’s quite a drag…how long can paint stay in the cup between coats before wrecking the airbrush? I am tempted to go back fully to using a normal paint brush and if I do should I lightly sand between coats to reduce brush marks? Apologies if these questions have come up before. So far I’ve had hit and miss results with a lot of my builds and I’m starting to get frustrated. Not helped by the fact that I have a tendency to over analyse!! I’d be happy to go back to paint brush but just want to get the best results possible. I’m not a fan of rattle cans due to their toxicity. Many thanks for all future replies Andy
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