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  1. Rigging the Aft kingpost, this one is in it's stowed position I thought I'd do it first as it's a bit less complicated to do that the foreward one. Some messy knots but I really struggled to tie a few of the off. Still, I'm pretty happy with the way it's come out.
  2. A couple of months ago I did a scratchbuild tug. It certainly had some character but ended up looking pretty cartoonish and while I like it it doesn't fit the diorama I'm doing. So I decided to do one from some plans. Built originally in 1907 I'm not building this particular boat but using the plans to get something that looks more accurate than my "by eye" earlier attempt. She will be up alongside the much larger Sunderland Steamer from my other build log - which in turn will up against HMS Prince of Wales. I'm not even sure if a tug this small would have the grunt to move a 10,000 merchant ship but for the sake of artistic license she will emphasise the size of the other two ships in the diorama. In 1/350 she's not very big, just 47mm bow to stern. But here goes. The scaled hull formers from the plans, these are just in thick printer friendly paper. Hull form assembled I stuffed the hull form with foam core to bulk it out, then trimmed down to fit. More so the putty would be thinner and not require as much curing time as anything else. roughly covered in Milliput, finger prints and all. Sanded down and with a deck made of scored card glued in place.
  3. Thankyou, It helps that I can afford to be a bit rough and ready with this one as she's meant to be a workhorse merchantman not exactly Bristol fashion. Second wash and highlight pass detailing to do and a filter to bring some of the highlights back down on the superstructure, rust and some more salt streaking to do on the hull.
  4. First wash and drybrush pass @Courageous you said you were curious to see if the paint layering worked for the hull panels.
  5. Been a while since an update on this, life got a little hectic the past few weeks. Finally got her pre-shaded, base coating tonight. I replaced the pulley's that came with the kit with rigging eyelets, once the rigging is on I'll cover them with the PE pulleys to hide them. Still have the hold interior to re-build, then some detailing - then about 40 crew to paint...oh and a deck derrick to make. AND the ship's boats to finish... Yeah the more I think about it the more there is still to do.
  6. He isn't an expert in WW2 signalling by any means and I take the information with a pinch of salt, as I get time I'll try and do more research into this. Currently I am going on the assumption that both ships would fly the modern "Bravo", I will have to go through my material again to find it but I am sure I read that the modern meaning of Bravo comes from the original RN practice of flying a red flag when handling gunpowder from very early days, in a similar way the Q flag has a long history of use well before there was the ICMS. I agree that PoW should also be flying a Code + Romeo signal, that seems the safest bet as even if she didn't have to, it's safer to and safety comes first at sea. One I will look into is whether it should be Code + a two flag Romeo code or some other single flag code that indicates she's at anchor and unable to manoeuvre.
  7. so I struggled to get thi to show well in a photo. from the Bow end you can barely see the vertical panel lines because they are angled , but from the stern angle they are clearly visible. (also my CA glue marks now seem horrific, but them's the apples) edit : also this vessel intentionally has alternating inner and outer strakes, which was NOT the way welded panel navy vessels were built but from what I've seen was how panel beaten riveted ship were built in the sunderland yards, I will do PoW differently.
  8. I'm converting the Trumpeter liberty ship kit, the in progress thread is here : If you're looking for an interesting vessel to do for an IJN merchant, you might want a look at this vessel as she had an interesting history, sunk in 1942, then raised and used by the IJN, sunk again in 1945, re-floated again and returned to her original owners. It would probably have to be a scratch build though . https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_Talthybius_(1911)
  9. What I would love to see , in 1/350, is merchant ships between the age of sail and WW2. Options are very limited currently, you've either got Liberty ships or you've got to use plans to scratch build. Given that these ships didn't have a huge variation in hulls, especially after WW1, it would be interesting to see an online merchant do something along the lines of "build your own" kits, with a selection of hulls, superstructure parts and cargo handling gear that could then be used to create a huge variety of different vessels.
  10. If you are not tied to WW2 warships, and don't want to do modern freighters, then there is always racing yachts. They are almost always colourful and covered in sponsors logos., though maybe not something for 1:700. Many merchantmen early in WW2 did not get full repaints into grey either and a wide range is out there in 1:700. You could also look at a hospital or aid ships, normally white with green markings along their side to mark them out as humanitarian vessels. Small vessels in coastal service (trawlers, drifters, etc) also often didn't get grey repaints. I'm pretty new to ship models, but I'm surprised by the variety of options there is for more esoteric and colourful builds. I'm currently doing a WW2 merchant ship that still had her blue funnel and tan super structure. Most of the merchant ships built interwar are variations on a fairly standard pattern, so don't be afraid of a bit of conversion and scratch build.
  11. Sorry, my guesstimation was to see if it was practical to model and cast than for anything more http. Edit: These may be useful to you https://journals.openedition.org/abe/11008 https://biblioasia.nlb.gov.sg/vol-16/issue-3/oct-dec-2020/building Few actual measurements, but if you may be able to use something universal such as a door and work our everything else from that.
  12. Have you considered moulding them? At 1/35 I would estimate 6cm per floor and as the frontages replicate you would only have to model one, make a silicone mould and then cast them in plaster.
  13. @Chewbacca Had an interesting conversation in the pub this evening with someone who's worked in shipping that shed some light on this, and made it clear I'd massively over thought the flags: 1. There's no need for the warship to fly "Mike" because it's already flying the jack, which means the same thing as it's the only time a RN warship fly's the jack. 2. No need to fly Mike if the ship is also already flying Bravo, because implicit in "I am handling dangerous cargo" is "Steer well clear" 3. As the junior vessel, there is no need for the merchant ship to fly anything at all, because (in his words) "It's blinding f@cking obvious to anyone who can read a signal that if she's alongside a 35,000ton battleship flying "Bravo" then she's also handling dangerous cargo" 4.There's no need to fly "Alpha" because the warship is already flying "Bravo" and both include the message "Stay clear" - doesn't matter if you should steer clear because of crew in the water or dangerous cargo, steer clear is steer clear. 5.No need for the code flag, because Bravo is the same message in navy and international code. So basically, the only signal flag that needs to be flown is "Bravo" from the senior vessel, and Bravo is flown in stead of Alpha because Bravo indicates a risk to both vessels. Just thought you might find that take interesting.
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