rms77

Here's a video showing the parts and construction of all three models: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xpSGjZBNnA They all look nice, and even come with waterslide decals. Although given how much detail they can achieve, it's bit disappointing that the cockpit window frames are done with decals rather than molded-in detail. I think I'll be picking all three up when they become available. The Bandai-style stands are interesting - I wonder if Bandai had some involvement in these kits at some point?

That's a really informative video - looks like a great product. Thanks again for your help!

Thanks very much for your advice on this, CFster - that's really helpful. Looks like VMS Satin Varnish is available in the UK, so I might give that a go. Thanks again!

Hi, I've been working on a 3D printed model kit. After priming, it was sprayed with a couple of coats of Tamiya TS-101 (base white) and then a couple of coats of TS-026 (gloss white), both rattle cans. I then left it for around 3-4 days to cure before applying the decals. So far, so good. I then sprayed a couple of coats of Vallejo polyurethane satin varnish (27.652) to protect the finished model. After leaving it to cure for a day or so, the satin finish looked good, but there were a couple of tiny dust spots I decided to sand away with a wet Micromesh sanding stick (probably 4000 grit or higher). Instead of just taking off the dust spot, a section of the varnish layer came away from the model. I figured I probably hadn't given the varnish enough time to cure, so left it 4 or so more days hoping it would be cured by that time. However, when I tried the same sanding process again I took off even more of the varnish - in the end I was able to peel off pretty much the whole of the polyurethane coating! So I'm back to having a painted and decaled, but unvarnished model, and I'm trying to decide on how I am going to apply the satin coat. I could try again with the polyurethane and just take steps any avoid dust and/or live with any minor imperfections that occur. Have others has success applying Vallejo water-based polyurethane over Tamiya TS paints, or am I trying to do the impossible? Could it just be a case of not leaving it long enough to cure? Or should I be using a solvent-based clear over a solvent based paint? Would Vallejo acrylic satin be a better choice? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Looks like Timeless Hobbies in the UK have them in (limited) stock, although they're temporarily closed until 9th Feb.

Really nice. Always been a fan of the RTL2 design and this is a lovely scratch build of it. Great job on Thunderbirds 1 and 2 as well!