Neddy
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Posts posted by Neddy
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I agree with Spiny, the dash is looking great. Bear in mind the whole thing is only about 60mm across, the camera can be downright cruel showing up the smallest imperfections. Once it's in the car it'll look the greyhound's gonads, trust me!
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Sadly they're both the snap-together version. If they were the "deluxe" glue-together version I'd snap their hands off!
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Very neat, innovative ideas well executed!
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Amazing model, beautifully finished and detailed. I love the originality of the stage set too, both the idea and the execution are first class.
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@Six97s Thanks for the inadvertent tip! I never knew the Polar Lights Batmobile kits existed, I wish I had when they were available. I'd love to get my hands on one but the only one I found when searching last night was over 150 squid - far too many beer tokens for me. I'll keep checking though.
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Just couldn't resist this one...
I drooled over this car back in the 1960s and didn't think I'd ever come across a kit of it. Whilst I prefer larger scale models this looks a fairly simple build and a good subject to practise my airbrushing technique. It won't matter how many coats it takes to get it right!
£30 from eBay in new condition, that'll do nicely!
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Thankyou for the kind comments guys, I really appreciate them. Having seen and appreciated builds from all of you it adds weight to your comments. More than one of you have been kind enough to offer really useful comments and tips for which I'm truly grateful.
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This is the completion of the build detailed here... that has occupied me for the last several months (apart from a brief hiatus due to a lunatic project detailed elsewhere here!) I hope you like it!
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...and my work here is done. The 'shell fought me every step of the way as - being a 40+-year old kit - it had spread slightly and mating up the interior tub and chassis to it was a bit ...er... "interesting". The front and rear chin panels thus needed reshaping at the edges (a pain after being sprayed) as the body curved inwards more than allowed for as a result.
Here are a few images of the finished article, I'll post a more comprehensive set in a new post in the RFI section...
All in all I was very impressed by the kit quality considering it's age and the fact that it's an AMT/ERTL. I was surprised at how much better quality the mouldings were than the recent re-release '56 T-Bird from the same stable. I've enjoyed the build and learned more as I've gone along. I hope those of you who followed the build found some interest there too. Thanks for sticking with it!
The RFI thread can be found HERE...
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"I'd lost the 'OMG the propshaft has sheared off' catcher" - otherwise known as the "pole-vault preventer"
Good solid work gone on here, nice wheels and interior!
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Niiiice!! This is what I love about car modelling, a tasteful custom job, well thought out and executed. Chopping is very difficult to get right and all to easy to screw up the proportions and finish but you've pulled it off nicely. Excellent engine bay detailing, interior and underside. All in all a great job.
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I'm NO expert but these thoughts might be useful in addition to Matt's invaluable advice:-
Another shout out for Tamiya rattle-cans and their fine surface primer, if you go the rattle-can route. If you're airbrushing water-based acrylics I can also confirm that Revell Aqua Color Basic works fine with resin 'shells and Mr. Hobby Aqueous have a nice range of colours including some cracking metallics. They're great paints for airbrushing too.
Flocking is OK for 1/16 scale and larger but for 1/24 scale it's worth trying using embossing powder instead, the finest you can locate.
As for underside painting, black always looks a bit too dark IMHO, so I tend to use matt gunmetal or a similar dark grey. Having spent a fair portion of my adult life gazing up at car undersides I can tell you that more or less anything dark and dirty goes but note that suspension components can look better in semi-gloss black, shock absorbers can often be quite bright colours and fuel tanks in older vehicles are best in a dull silver or metallic gunmetal. for each individual model spend a bit of time looking at images on the 'Net of that particular vehicle and go from there.
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Wot they said!
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This may be the last update before the model is finished, barring last-minute setbacks that is!
All glass now fitted (after remembering to paint the headlining in a suitable shade) and I was pleasantly surprised by the fit. The quarterlights on the doors needed a bit of fettling but the front and rear screens went in with no issues at all, despite the badly formed windscreen pillar. The rearview mirror, door handles, grille, headlights and taillights were then fitted, all without major drama.
Finally the front and rear chin panels had their lights and reg plates fitted.
Now all the sub-assemblies are complete, just (ha! Just!) the doors to hang, the body, interior and chassis assemblies to mate up and the chin panels to fit.
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Beautiful job! Like others I built a "visible" engine back in the '60s, a four cylinder OHC one, and that gave me enough headaches. It ran after a fashion but its deficiencies took a lot of the pleasure out of it. You've done a remarkable job re-engineering it and it was a pleasure reading about the restomod process.
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I'll give it a try but not yet, I'm only just beginning to master the foibles of Molotow! Re. end-of-build stuff-ups, you're talking to a master of that, to the point where I dread the final fitting of 'shell, interior tub and chassis - so many potential bear-traps...
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"Acceptable" he says... blimey, I dream of being able to pull off chromework like that. Dash, interior, doors, 'shell, they're all looking damn' good to me. It's really coming together well!
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Welcome to the forum John, looks like you're (re)starting the hobby with the right tools and ideas!
I may be down in the wilds of Kent but my family roots are in south Lincs, Thurlby (near Bourne) to be precise. I know the area pretty well and spent many summer holidays there when I was a mere stripling.
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That's a very nice build, well detailed and well executed. Looks really good!
Another option for fixing windows, canopies and other clear plastic items is Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze, PVA-based and made for the job (the clue's in the name!).
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Hmmm... that would make a great fun project - I wonder where I could find a suitable Moke kit...
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Whatever struggles you're having with the airbrushing, the results look fine. If I may, can I pass along a couple of tips that might help you?
1> Remove the masking tape as early as you can, and
2> Leave the model for a few days for the paint to fully harden before putting masking tape on it, both tips intended to avoid any possibility of the tape lifting it off.
Really looking good so far!
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Still progressing slowly. Doors now complete apart from glazing...
...the lighting has not been kind to these images!
The exterior chromework is now complete - much use of Molotow and 3mm masking tape involved! I could only do this on certain days due to an annoying intermittent tremor in my hand, hence the delay since the last update.
Thanks for your patience!
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Wow, where to start... Conventional superlatives seem to be totally inadequate. This car simply looks...real. No matter how closely you look at the details, the engine bay, the cockpit - everything looks real, even down to the suggestion of mud in the tyre treads.
Indistinguishable from the real thing is about the greatest compliment you can give any model and this certainly qualifies. Amazing job.
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Hello back atcha!
I used to live in South London (Eltham/Mottingham) back in my yoof but for the final two years there I was Chairman of the Escape Committee and finally got away down into deepest Kent about 45 years ago.
Water Based Decal Fix
in Decals
Posted
I'm in a similar dilemma. Specifically a Revell car kit which has quite a few decals needing to be laid on a fairly flat surface over water-based acrylic gloss paint. I've read several dire warnings about using decal softeners or fixers over water-based acrylics and am tempted to just go with warm water, maybe with a drop of washing-up liquid or white vinegar. Anyone with experience of using them on water-based acrylics?