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johnd

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Everything posted by johnd

  1. Lovely Tempest. Tips on brush painting silver like that would be appreciated. John.
  2. Revell Aqua is good but has a limited colour range. My personal favourite is Hataka. It's available in two forms, optimised for brush or airbrush. I find both are fine for hand brushing. John.
  3. Good modelling there, and a fine choice of paint! John.
  4. Graham Boak has a fix for that: a vertical cut downwards along the 'nose ring' panel line just in front of the exhausts, glue that forward part to preserve the circular section, wedge the cowling behind it until it's wide enough, fill the gap and smooth. John.
  5. I believe without chopping it about, it can only be a mk.ii. They tried to vary the length by supplying separate Cowlings, but the difference is actually in the fuselage. The fuselage supplied is one for a Mk.II. John.
  6. Don't give up on the Freightdog set. When stuff is out of stock it disappears from the website. It's worth dropping them a line to see if they have plans to restock. John.
  7. think you dodged a bullet there, Elvington and Whitby would be far more rewarding. Hope the back sorts itself out tout suite... John.
  8. Correct. Probably your best bet would be to use the Alley Cat metal wing on the fuselage from the Airfix rag wing kit. There's an example of a build here. John.
  9. To my mind, capturing the basic shape, the "look and feel", is more important than the detail. It's not that the detail on other people's models isn't appreciated, it's just that it's of secondary importance to my eye. In other words, I'd rather an old Airfix Mk.I Spitfire over a Tamiya one because the former looks like a Spitfire and the latter falls short, even though it has lovely detail. John.
  10. Really? Where did that information come from, please? John.
  11. Also, for today only, they have free delivery on orders over £10. Use code MONFD10. John.
  12. I don't see why putting the white on first is unrealistic. Paint the wings white, mask off the parts to remain white, another light coat of white around the edges of the tape followed by the Dark Earth/Dark Green/MSG. When the masking tape is off, you'll probably have a ridge of paint (you would by doing it the other way round too) so a bit of sanding/polishing would be in order. Dark over light is sound practice...not that I ever remember that in time, white stripes and Sky bands always end up being added as an afterthought (I don't practice what I preach). John.
  13. Hi all, I'm just about to start painting up a Mustang III (HB886, TN), that of Group Captain Nowierski in August 1944. Would it have standard Ocean Grey, Dark Green and Medium Sea Grey or the ANA equivalents? Thanks, John.
  14. The Germans hold the end of the BoB to be July 1941, so well within scope. John.
  15. Shouldn't think so, it's only a minor one and there's no public holiday. Beautifully neat work on the Anson, by the way. John.
  16. Good luck. I'd wait for the current coat to dry before you do anything though. John.
  17. Whenever that's happened to me it's been because I haven't stirred it enough. I wouldn't say the model was ruined, though. A coat of flat varnish will sort it out. John.
  18. A great collection and fine models, as ever. May I ask what modifications were made for the Mk.IIs? John.
  19. It's shame that you've been drawn to the dark side, your 1/72 stuff is very good. John.
  20. Now that you know that your white paint is a good match, would not the cut transfer method be the best bet? If it didn't work then you could revert to the masking plan, nothing lost. John.
  21. The previous Freightdog Mk.18 tailplane was the Fujimi kit. I don't believe they did one for the Academy effort. John.
  22. Very nice, I know what you mean about the scheme. I have a Tempest to finish in it, not necessarily attractive but a welcome change from Ocean Grey. John.
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