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Posts posted by johnd
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Hello all...
I've got a number of Airfix kits with cowlings that lack detail (Blenheim, Stirling etc) and I'd like to add some. I can scribe straight lines easily enough but I'm not sure how to go about the exhaust collector ring, i.e. the concentric circle near the front. In an ideal world I'd stick it in a lathe and touch the edge of a scalpel on it, but I haven't got a lathe. Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John.
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Ta for the kind offer Ben M but July '41 is a bit late for me as I was aiming for a BoB period machine.
I've got a bit further with this after digging out my copy of Graham Warner's book. For 24/08/40 it has N3531, a 235 Squadron Mk IV, shot down by a 1 RCAF Squadron Hurricane but repaired. The aircraft the instructions say was shot down by Bf 109s on 11/09 was Z5725 and not N3531.
So assuming Warner is correct, N3531 was a 235 Sqn Mk IV and the QY codes supplied by E.D. (and Airfix) are wrong. However, the decal sheet includes an individual marking, a Viking longship with the phrase 'Buskarlets Brig' worn on the lower port rudder. This implies it was done from a photograph...
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Thanks guys.
The decals are E.D.Models, ex Almark I think, judging by the squiggly A on the sheet. I managed to find the Finescale Modeller page you mention, and it has a drawing of QY-F, N3531 by Richard J Caruana. Trouble is, it's a Mk I. It definitely shows a IVF on the decal instruction sheet.
So much for a quick build!
John.
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Hello all,
I'm building the good old Airfix Mk IVf Blenheim at the moment, and came across some E.D. Models decals for aircraft N3531, QY-F. Now, the description says that this is for 235 Squadron and the aircraft survived a "friendly fire" incident but was shot down by Bf 109s on 11 September 1940. Trouble is, I thought QY were the codes for 254 Squadron and 235 used LA. Also, the decals supplied with the kit include QY-D, and the instructions refer to this as being a 235 Squadron aeroplane.
Are the two sets of decals wrong?
John.
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Evening all,
I have some FCM Battle of Britain decals in 1/72 scale. When I tried them years ago it wasn't a great success, with the carrier film showing up on the model and I had to overpaint up to the actual marking. I put them aside and forgot about them but just recently I read a reference to FCM making decals designed to be fixed in place, left 24 hours and then an outer film peeled off to give a near painted on look. Is this where I went wrong? There's nothing to suggest in the instructions that this what you should do with this sheet though...
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Ok, we need a volunteer to buy one and report back. Am I living in the past, though, or is £9.99 a bit steep for an Italeri Spitfire?
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Haven't seen it yet, but I'd be surprised if any modification to the original mould is made. I hope they do though !
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Some impressive work in that site
Thanks for the link.
If I did interior detail like on that Stirling there's no way I'd stick the fuselage halves together.
The FineScale Modeller article, incidentally, shows a build with the flaps down and is worth a look for that alone.
John.
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Hi Folks,
I'm sure I have it somewhere!
It's a recent(ish) article on hte build of the Airfix Sterling.
Wanted to read up on it before I start mine foir an ex Flight Engineer from 15 Sqdn
Thanks
Adrian
I think it was Finescale Modeller, September 2010
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You are probably right. Anyway I am still thinking of building a Spit Vc using Italeri Mk.IX and Vb...
Me too, cheaper and far more satisfying!
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Thanks for all your kind offers and advice, I'm now sorted!
John.
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Probably academic now, but the Aeroclub replacements for a Mk V / Mk VII were P047.
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Thanks everyone, some great tips here.
I've already built the Airfix Vc. I took off what I thought was loads of plastic from the wings but they still look too thick. I have a spare Italeri Mk IX and was wondering what to do with it, hence the Vc idea. One things for sure, Italeri Spitfires aren't universally popular!
I was thinking of scribing the wing fillet but curves aren't really a speciality so a piece of plastic (5 thou?) will do the job.
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Hi all,
If I stick the c wings from the 1/72 Italeri Spitfire on to their Mk Vb fuselage, I should end up with a Spitfire Vc (as long as I sort the oil cooler out under the port wing). The fuselages appear identical so I expect the fit to be ok.
Does this sound sensible? The only other thing I can think of to look out for is the size of the cannon blisters...
Thanks,
John.
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Thanks, all.
Although I haven't had the thing long, I can't honestly remember where I bought it! Old age.
I'll give Airfix a ring and I'm sure they'll sort me out, but thanks Mark for the offer to step in if they don't. The rate I build kits a few weeks is plenty, I probably won't have got any paint on by then.
I was thinking of doing the desert scheme anyway, I did the JE*J scheme on the old 1950s molding (I know it's not the same aeroplane but one of James Edgar's is ample).
John.
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Evening all.
I've just opened up the box on my new 1/72 Airfix Spitfire IX and found that there aren't any decals in there. How's the quality, should I bother asking Airfix for replacements or just buy some aftermarket ones?
Ta,
John.
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I have recently obtained an original Frog Whitley model which is complete except for one of the props. Can anyone suggest a suitable replacement or more accurately replacements since if I'm replacing one I'll replace both so it looks right. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I have a prop from a Russian rebox of this kit that you can have if you'd like it.
One of mine was missing a blade so I bought Aeroclub replacements on John Adams' advice. I can't remember which ones they were though. I'll see if I can track down the email.
John.
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Really, really, really buy from a specialist. Xtracolor, Xtracrylics, White Ensign... same price as Humbrol but they just look right.
If there's one thing that's helped me towards adequacy it's getting good paint.
If you're brush painting enamels then avoid Xtracolor and go for WEM. Mind you, WEM Dark Green is very difficult to get hold of. They seem to be permanently out of stock. My backup is Humbrol 163.
John.
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I think you've pretty much come to your own conclusion there matey. Just be careful (in general with harsh chemicals) when you remove it after it's done its job. I'd imagine it would still be active, so care would be needed there not to ruin the paintwork you want to keep. Good luck!
Thanks!
I got myself into the mess by using nail polish remover to remove some decals and it took off the paint too. The polish contains acetone but hasn't damaged the plastic in any way. I've read that you should keep acetone well away from plastic because it'll melt it but mine seems all right. I'm too worried to carry on using it though.
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Hi folks,
I've read lots of posts on here about stripping paint from plastic models but they all assume you want to do an entire kit or some separate parts. What if you want to remove paint from a fairly small part of the model without removing paint from anywhere else?
I assume what I need is a paste and Modelstrip looks as though it might do the job. Before I send for some, does anyone know of an alternative? The paint is enamel and I can't sand it because of panel detail.
Thanks,
John.
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It is indeed a lovely kit, I'm really enjoying building it.
Having correctly realised that the green codes were wrong I then went along quite happily and applied the wing decals as shown in the instructions - that is, a large type A on the lower surfaces and smaller type C on the upper. Something is now telling me that this not correct. Could someone advise as to what roundels I should use for TB900 in 1945?
Thanks,
John.
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Panic over!
Hannants have in fact got MD051, MD052 and MD053 which includes the codes I need. Someone had deleted them from their web site but they're there now.
John.
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Oops, yes, absolutely correct. Sky is the colour.
Many thanks for your kind offer, PM sent.
John.
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I've just been given a Heller 1/72 Spitfire XVI and it looks a nice kit apart from the bizarre shade of green the D-GE decals come in.
I understand that Lifelike did the same codes but their sheet is no longer available, as did Matchbox but these are white. No problem, I thought, I'll just buy a sheet of medium sea grey RAF code letters and use those. I was surprised to find there are none available at Hannants and good old Google hasn't found any either. This is a pity as I fancied building this one because of the blue spinner. It also calls into question some other ideas I'd had.
Is this a temporary blip in supply do you think, or has demand dried up because people are using the decals supplied with the kit these days?
Scribing an exhaust collector ring
in Modelling Tips
Posted · Edited by johnd
Thanks for the replies.
I tried the Dymo tape but it doesn't have the adhesion or the flexibility to provide a good guide so I'll try the masking and see how I get on.
Another thought I had was to make a template with a hole the same diameter as the collector ring rear, place the cowling through it and try to scribe round that. I have a feeling that it would be tricky to line it up properly though.
John.