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johnd

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Everything posted by johnd

  1. johnd
    Basically, the pot of 157 supplied by Airfix is hopeless. I tried lightening it with white but ended up with light grey. In the end I bought a bottle of Vallejo's Model Color Azure which is still a little dark but a lot, lot better. The above mentioned thread on 157 is well worth reading. John.
  2. johnd
    Thanks folks. I've decided not to use the Hu93. Luckily there's an LMS near where I'm staying and they sold me a bottle of Vallejo Model Air 71.031 that looks a better shade ( though it's not covering well). I'm sure there's a knack. John. PS Isn't Hu119 meant to be Light Earth? Or is that the US version?
  3. johnd
    Ok, thanks, I'll slop some on then. It just struck me as odd that they didn't supply 225 when that's actually listed as Middle Stone. John.
  4. johnd
    I do like it, a lot. How does the kit deal with the geodetics behind the fuselage windows?
  5. johnd
    Evenin' all... I'm away from home at the moment and passing my evenings building an Airfix starter kit, the new tooling P40b. I expected middle stone and dark earth over azure blue for this model (Neville Duke's 112 Sqn GA-F). Airfix have supplied Hu93 to represent the mid stone - does that sound ok? I thought that was supposed to represent 8th Army Desert Yellow. Was there something different about this particular aircraft so that Hu225 wasn't appropriate? I know that building starter kits is supposed to recapture the excitement of lost youth and I shouldn't care but it isn't working. John.
  6. johnd
    To my mind low back 14s look good in SEAC markings. The dark earth and green variety would be a contrast to those you already have.
  7. johnd
    That is beautiful. Please tell my that my eyes are deceiving me and that isn't really rigging on a 1/350 scale Walrus....
  8. johnd
    May I suggest an early two-blader and a contra-prop model, possibly a Seafire FR.47? John.
  9. johnd
    I have three of the blighters started. The kindest thing to be said is that the wings are more or less the right shape and size. The rest will need correcting to make an accurate model. Apart from the nose shape, the fuselage needs widening, the fin and rudder are too small, the radiator is in the wrong position, the spinner and propeller are far too small and the undercarriage is missing the struts seen on the real thing. Also, the trickiest to correct, is that the turret is too small and has a large cast mark on the transparency that is impossible to remove. Your best bet would be to seek out Nobby's build on these forums. John.
  10. johnd
    You'll need more than etch and decals.
  11. johnd
    Evening all, I'm building the Revell 1/72 SE.5a and while in most areas there is adequate detail for my needs, there appears to be something missing on the underside of the cowling, namely ventilation slots. Now good old Google shows pictures with two distinct styles, one with four long slits, the other with four banks of two shorter ones. My feeling was that the former matches up with the four blade propeller and Hispano Suiza engine, the latter with the two blade airscrew and Viper engine. Am I being naive? Sorry if I'm asking a basic question, this isn't my normal area, just a change from the usual. John.
  12. johnd
    57 Squadron, January 1945: 4/5 Jan, Ladbergen viaduct, 1x4000lb HÇ + 16x500lb MC 5/6 Jan, oil targets, 13x1000lb MC 6/7 Jan, Mining, 6xA Mark I-IV mines 7/8 Jan, Munich area bombing, 1x4000lb HC + 10 Incendiary clusters (1060x4lb incendiaries) The second load gives you the excuse to buy seven new Airfix Typhoons and you'd still have a bomb spare. John.
  13. johnd
    I hope you're pleased with it because it looks pretty good to me. What's next?
  14. johnd
    I can recommend the Freightdog bits.
  15. johnd
    Uncanny, I've just stuck the Mk.22 prop on my Academy XIV and it transforms it. Does anyone do a figure of an erk with a foot pump?
  16. johnd
    So what happens if you try to brush paint thinned with cellulose? I'm asking because I've just bought a bottle of Rustins to speed drying... John
  17. johnd
    Supplying the bombs as a separate pack is a good idea as it keeps the price down for those who don't want them. The problem here is that you have to buy a load of useless vehicles. A marketing mistake, I'd say.
  18. johnd
    I was thinking of disposing of mine but now it's a keeper. Great build!
  19. johnd
    On the other hand, White Ensign Models do an enamel Night...Then if it goes wrong, you can blame them.
  20. johnd
    Tamiya Spitfires may build well but they look wrong when finished, noticeably so. Either the new or old Airfix Mk I kits look the part though with more work. Panel lines on the newer one are a nuisance but reducing them is straightforward. A VB is a different matter, probably the old Airfix one, though I do have a soft spot for the underrated Hobby Boss effort. I've no experience of AZ, I figured there was no need to wrestle with short run when mainstream kits are plentiful and taking cost into account. John.
  21. johnd
    Wow, looks even more useful than I thought! How would I get hold of an ally bar? (Bet Chadders says 'one hand each end'...)
  22. johnd
    There's always one...
  23. johnd
    Hello, I've seen that some resourceful modellers use the aluminium sheet obtained from cutting up drinks cans to great effect in their scratchbuilding. As it's in essence free I'm naturally interested. One thing that's not clear though is how do you flatten it out? Ta, John.
  24. johnd
    I'm about to embark on the same task, though mine's a 1/72 Airfix P-40E , not quite as grand as yours. The first thing to do, I suppose, is to lighten the paint colours for that faded look. My first attempt at this will be by adding some white to the mid-stone and dark earth paint (suspect it won't work for the red spinner though). As far as weathering techniques go, there are some tips here. The author admits he's overdone it but it'll give you some pointers to the techniques that can be used. John.
  25. johnd
    Nice one, often wondered how to go about that. John.
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