johnd

Sorry...

Most impressive. It'll improve bath time no end. John.

Hurricane wheels were 25.4" diameter, inflated. I don't know the width. John.

Also, if memory serves, the Mk.XV didn't see front-line service due to a faulty supercharger(?), so by my criterion of selecting marks used in active service, I'd go for a Mk.XVII. John.

The Sword IIc has all the parts necessary, though it doesn't have the markings for a 3 stack, 4 blade prop example. Model Alliance does a sheet with a suitable scheme. John.

Personally, I like aircraft that were used operationally, so two would have to be from WW2. I also like examples that are non-typical so the first would be a Mk.II hybrid with three stack exhausts and a four-bladed propeller (you don't find that on Spitfires). The second would be a Mk.III with British Pacific Fleet markings. The final one would be an FR.47 from the Korean War. Oh yes, one short. Probably a Mk.XVII. Regarding kits, Sword for the II, III and XVII. Special Hobby for the 47 (probably). If the SH kit puts you off then consider the Airfix Spitfire F Mk.22 with a Freightdog conversion to make a Seafire FR Mk.46. John.

It doesn't really, it's a modification of their old Mk.Vb. All the criticisms of the Mk.V apply plus there's no bulkhead behind the pilot and the canopy has not been updated. It's worth looking out for at the right price as the transfer sheet looks good and you can use the extended wingtips and air intake on another kit. Beard's AZ one looks much better. John.

I was just about to say the same. I also seem to remember that the Mercury engines fitted to Blenheims could handle higher octane fuel. Some 100 octane petrol was available on Malta, I believe. John.

I thoroughly enjoyed building mine and don't recall having trouble with the tracks. I got them on, which makes them good by my standards . It definitely looks 1/76 scale. For a stupid price though? I'd buy it. John.

Exactly right, plus it may come to be obvious to you after it's finished and too late to do anything about it. This is the voice of experience. John.

I and my two Seafires will wait patiently to see the outcome of the craziness. Cheers, John.

All Vallejo brushes well, as does Hataka and both leave a good finish. I lean towards Hataka as the colours seem more accurate, though Vallejo may have raised their game in that area recently. Having said that, some Humbrol paint goes on well straight from the pot, Hu90 especially. If it doesn't, add flow improver and retarder. Water works fine for thinner but better results may be achieved with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). If the surface is a little rough, rub down with a fancy product such as micromesh or use the poor person's solution, a piece cut from a pair of tights. Really, it's all a bit 'hit and miss' with Humbrol, quality control hasn't been consistent over the years and you can't be sure what you're getting. One tip, though: don't buy it in flip-top pots. I'm still experimenting and far from an expert, but look up posts from Britmodellers such as @robvulcan for top advice on acrylics and brush painting. John.

I've made a few of theirs over the years. They've been sprayed with car paint, brush painted with enamel (Colourcoats) and acrylic (Vallejo and Humbrol) and never had a problem. My modelling is pretty slapdash and rarely are the kits washed first. An isolated incident in unusual circumstances it seems. John.

I'm pleased you're pressing on with the RFI. Those tabs look intriguing, I'd thought of adding one for the rear fuselage to wing joint but not there. John.

A great result. Which paints did you use, please? John.

That Co-op Czech beer is surprisingly good and well worth the modest outlay. John.

I can't help with matches from the ranges you mention but would it not be possible to get hold of a Halfords rattle can or touch-up pot with the actual paint in it? John.

I believe that the gun muzzles only projected beyond the wing leading edge on very early Spitfires, before the time when the patches were introduced. Depending on which Spitfire you're portraying, therefore, the Tamiya kit may be wrong or you don't need the patches. John.

That's handy, cheers! John.

If you collect from a store there's no postage to pay either. John.

Great work on the cockpit but the jemmy thing on the access door wasn't red, it was natural metal. They're red on the modern restorations, presumably due to health and safety rules but weren't at the time. Just thought I'd say before you closed it up (hopefully). John.

Thanks, Stix. What's the rule for continuing after the deadline? Can I finish it off here and just not put it in the gallery? John.

Apologies, people. The wheels have defeated me. The road wheel was simple enough to fix but the idler wheel broke off again when the track went on, as did the one on the other side. The track is simply too tight. I'd have to pin them both with a metal rod, I think to put the necessary strength in and I don't have the equipment for that at the moment. It's a shame as I was enjoying it. Thanks to @PlaStix, @Basilisk, and @Davek72 for the encouragement and also to @Sgt.Squarehead for the reference material. John.

Turned out well. Like the stand! John.

Thanks, both. Great knowledge, advice and photos too! John.