Mark_C

I would have no idea it was 1/43 until the last photo, it's so well done. Good job!

Thank you for your posts! They're a model (sorry, sorry) of clarity, and I was able to understand exactly what you were doing at each step, and why you were doing it. I look forward to watching your progress.

I look forward to the Knight Hospitaller, not just because it's a wonderful figure, but also because my family has a connection . . . Knights Hospitallers essentially became Knights of Malta, and one of the family heirlooms is a Maltese Cross from 1859 given to someone who was probably a Knight of the Order.

Just an interested lurker popping up to add this, if it will help: https://www.worldcoppersmith.com/articles/copper-patina-guide/ The first part explains how patinas occur, and illustrates various examples. If you soldier on to the end, there are recipes for creating solutions that will leave a patina on copper.

If I may butt in for a moment, As Ted said Verlinden figures are widely available: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=verlinden+120mm&_sacat=0 But do be aware that proportions sometimes seem a little off. I have a Carabinier trooper, and his hands seem enormous and legs rather short. But that could just be me, and at £45 or so they're much cheaper than most alternatives.

I think it looks very, very good. My only suggestions would be to make sure the ground color contrasts with the body color, so the Beetle really stands out. And maybe put some damage on the folding roof? I would think the material would degrade a lot in the sun . . .

Superbe!

This video may be helpful, particularly if you skip to 28:45, where you're shown TS-30 after it has dried on a spoon, The video maker seems to be handling the plastic with no particular problems with adhesion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eofcKmO1L9k

Hi there, just a quick suggestion re: the decals. You can probably find white circle decals of the right diameter fairly easily, or even use a compass cutter and cut them of a solid sheet. This way you just need to print the lettering and logo, which should be much easier for someone than trying to print white. When you get the two decals, just overlay one on the other and you should be set.

Definitely following this one!

Thank you for the response, Jorgen. I have not yet used auto lacquer, and your information is very helpful.

Pardon me for digging this up after two months, but I just wanted to congratulate you on a truly superb build. There were times I thought I was looking at the actual car. I also wanted to ask you a technical question of sorts: fairly early on you mention using 1200 grit sandpaper to sand down the blue/red paint border. How do you avoid smearing the demarcation line? I would have thought the fine pigment left in the sandpaper would get ground in around the border and spoil those lovely sharp lines. I'd love to know how you did it.

What a nice coincidence! I was just looking to buy one of these, but didn't know how the build would go. Now I get to see. 😄

I thought I'd add a pic of said Gunga Din: What a beauty! I look forward to watching you create the model.

That is very well done, and well-photographed, to boot! Good job!