Jump to content

Al Gunthwaite

Members
  • Posts

    278
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Al Gunthwaite

  1. Hi John Brilliant work! How did you print your number decals? Are they individual numbers printed on white transfer paper? Al
  2. This may not help but I have brown cammo net produced by SB Scotia Models which I must have picked up at a show at some time (probably in the distant past). I suspect properly fettled up it will look effective (and to scale), as a scramble net. Al
  3. Have you watched the youtube clip? If so you need to watch the whole feature film which is over an hour long - Includes harbour launches and MTB/MGBs in harbour. Al
  4. Rob Figures with life jackets/buoyancy aids will be done (but not in the timescale of your current projects)! Stuart Straightforward answer - yes. GM72-004: British and Commonwealth Sailors, Officers (Working Dress 5A) (1) - but perhaps not the chap with the beard And GM72-021: Airmen (Early WWII) were designed with half an eye on the ASRL I'm sure I must have mentioned this before but the film "For Those in Peril" is a great source of reference for boats and crew - filmed in 1943 (released in 1944) Al
  5. Cracking job on the figures Rob! Al
  6. It's the new technology I have difficulty with...the laser headband illuminated magnifying loop apparatus. I've tried. Al
  7. Superb stuff, but it's not really cricket,,, the classic Mk.1 Eyeball should be the kit! Al
  8. Dan There's no right or wrong for coastal forces uniforms. I would suggest grey for the battle bowlers, off-white or navy blue for the jumpers, navy for the trousers and the duffle coats in duffle coat colour (there are some painting guides on my site). Al
  9. Milliput: Roll out a piece, using a piece of plastic or whatever on either side to get a uniform thickness and give everything a dose of talc so that it doesn't stick (particularly what you're using to roll out on). Make yourself a template for the size of mat you want and cut around it. Then give it some indentations so that it looks like fabric (as opposed to a hard surface). Al
  10. I have a the Heller kits in the loft. Les Ailes de Gloire No.13 book on the D.500/D.510 is pretty comprehensive and has 1/48 plans (can't vouch for there accuracy). My intention is to build it as L4570. Al
  11. I have the ambulance, the staff car and the NH etch set (for the ambulance). They look to be very nice kits. The intention is to build the car as a civilian Prince Henry to place with my WW1 RAF pilots. The sticking point is getting around to building wire wheels to replace those in the kits. Al
  12. I'm late to this discussion... Regarding the specific question about milliput and clingfile - use talc. If I want a thin flat piece of milliput I will often use a clear plastic bag. Sprinkle talc inside so that both inside surfaces are covered. The put the milliput inside to roll flat. With the talc it won't stick to the bag I've also used the same method with clingfilm around the hull of a boat, coated with talc when I have used milliput to create water and waves. The boat can be left in situ to build up milliput around it (eg creating a bow wave) and then the hull can be lifted out when the milliput has cured. Hope that helps. Al
  13. Folks Just taking a step back, one learns a lot from this forum. Great stuff! Al
  14. Thanks Ryan (embarrassed) I can't of course say what I working on now (because I should be spending time refining the dark arts of 3D design)...but there's no decent crew available in 1/144 scale. Al
  15. I'm convinced I typed X MAS! Al
  16. Great work Moose! I am gathering components to build this. Is it the 1/96 scale etch 3-bar stanchions that you used? I can see there would be advantages over 2D flat etch rails. Al
  17. Hi Stuart Choroszy Mobelbud do a fairly comprehensive range of resin MAS Boats in 1/72: http://modelbud.home.pl/en_US/c/Scale-172/70. I've not seen one so I can't vouch for the quality. I have often thought of getting one to finish as Christmas which was captured and operated by the RN out of Malta. I haven't got around to researching which model of MAS it was. Al
  18. Grand Stuff. Looking forward to seeing this! Al
  19. Rob Coincidentally, I have just received the Shapeways 1/72 RN figures: https://www.shapeways.com/product/N42V6T68C/1-72-royal-navy-seamen-set101?optionId=63331179 They're good. All in square rig, a number in "interesting" poses. A little on the large size and the arms/hands could benefit from a bit more time in the design process. All the figures appear to have the same facial features although hats are at different angles. I have also seen (on-line) the munich-Kits 1/144 figures. These didn't tease me enough to want to buy them. I didn't see the minimum order. However, if you want to make up the numbers count me in for a set. I've had some 1/144 scale dollies which I made 10 years ago (or more) so I'm going to look at them over the next couple of weeks to see what I can do with them. I have been trying to teach myself the old 3D design which seems to be a process of for every small stride forward, there is a huge pace backwards. The process makes you understand the skill-sets that you don't have. However I am nearly at a point where I can start t thing about printing some basic stuff. Obviously I'm working on designing RN figures which when they are ready to print, can be produced in any scale. The only point I am anticipating is that in the smaller scales (1/72 and smaller), some of the detail will need to be accentuated to make then easier to paint. Regarding transfers, my sheets are designed using CorelDraw, but any basic drawing software should be able to do the job. The only point I would note is that whatever you're designing, separate your colours (basically draw an outline and then colour it in). I have made enquiries about getting my sheet printed but because it's designed with colours overlaid, it can't be done (at reasonable cost). For home made transfers, "depth" markings in white would require white transfer paper (because unless you have an Alps printer you can't print in white ink). You need to print the colour(s) of the hull leaving the markings white. It shouldn't be too difficult to merge into the paintwork particularly if the hull is weathered heavily. So regard the Corvette build - I'm at the thoughtful, planning stage at the moment! Al
  20. Had notification that my final Shapeways delivery is on it's way... Al
  21. There are other matters to attend to first: like finding a means to post pictures! Al
  22. I have acquired the Revell 1/144 Corvette. And in a rash moment I also acquired various bits for it. Just saying... Al
×
×
  • Create New...