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Billos

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Everything posted by Billos

  1. Great result for a "first-renew" - much better than mine was! Anyway, no-one here has mentioned Mr Surfacer, which I call "magic crack smoothing stuff"! It comes in different thickneses and is invaluable for filling and finishing gaps too small for putty. You can find plenty of references to it all over Britmodeller. There are several brands. Mr Surfacer is the Mr Hobby brand.
  2. @Dave Swindell @Steve McArthur @XV571 Thanks for the info and leads. Much appreciated.
  3. It's a pet peeve of mine that whenever you search on google for "(insert aircraft name) Cockpit" all you ever get is a picture of the instrument panel. So I was looking for a picture of the rear cockpit bulkhead in a Hercules. I'm making the italeri C130E'H as the RAF version. . It has what appears to be a large blank rectangle, which I think should actually be a door. It also has a fireax and extinguisher, and I would like to find out whether that's correct and if so the colors. Another pet peeve of mind that the default color for fire-ex's seems universally to be modelled as red. In fact the color of the firex depends on what sort it is. (black (co2), green (halon), blue (powder), red (water) are some of the colors possible). And are those stretchers or folding beds/tables attached to the bulkhead. I have cutaway pic of the Herc,but it's not clear on the cockpit interior. So in short my question is has anyone got a pic or a link to the entire cockpit interior of a RAF c130e/h. Is the J very different? Can I use that as a pattern? Thanks for your attention.
  4. This has probably been explained somewhere before but I can't find it ( a search for reputation gives zero results.) So maybe worthwhile giving a rundown in the FAQS. Cheers.
  5. @Tomcat101Is the pink cast an artefact of the photo color balance or is it actually pink? I ask because specifically in the last pic the whole engine area is pink, yet the fuselage and wing leading edges are white. I do like the split scheme, I did something similar for my sea fury. 2 for the price of 1!
  6. Click on the pic and you'll get a large view.
  7. Well here it is finished. I hope I made a good recovery after my Varnish Catastrophe (see wip I an in awe of @Red five's incredible job on the Johnnie Johnston version. Someday I I hope to emulate that! Meanwhile here's my attempt. It's certainly a long way from the first 1/24 Spit I built back in 1973! Constructive comments welcome. Yes I know the tailplane's not level, The photo revealed that to me! πŸ˜•
  8. So finally new roundels arrived (Techmod via Hannants) so applied those and the new stencils which also were removed in the repaint. Then with the advice of the staff at Wallack's my local Art store I used a brush on finish called DEMCO podge. Brilliant! It's intended for finishing actual Art paintings. Does smell a bit vinegary as you apply it, and also looks white and lumpy as it goes on, but dries to a Beautiful smooth matt finish with just the right sheen. Art to the Rescue! I did practice on a "sacrificial victim" first! It did get me thinking that sometimes we focus too intently on products specifically targetted at us as plastic modellers, while there are plenty of other non-model products that work. Not to mention cheaper! RFI pics coming just as soon as I clear a space in the basement for the photo booth!
  9. Gotta love that acronym- Força Aérea Brasileira - Brazilian Air Force. This is a AT6-D Texan of the Esquadrilha da Fumaça (Smoke Squadron) the aerobatic demonstartion team of the FAB from 1952-1969, led most of that time by Major (later Colonel) Braga who is credited as the pilot with the most hours flying the Texan anywhere in the world. Anyway it's the Academy kit reboxed by HTC (Hobby Trade Centre of Sao Paulo) with special decals by FCM of Rio de Janeiro. A fun little build with a surprisingly intricate scheme. Hope you enjoy it. And since it's apparently de riguer for a Texan to have a penny stuck on the engine, here she is with the Brazilian equivalent as near to the engine as I can get it!
  10. @BOBO I use a similar method of home made stencils (using photoshop to enlarge and copy drawings) but I have always cut out individual stencils, and then agonise over the exact positioning of them. I never thought of doing the whole wing at once! One of those things that's obvious as soon as someone else thinks of it! Do-oh ! (slaps head) Good work!
  11. And let's not mention the Tora-Tora-Tora At-6 harvard-Zeros! Although there are actually models on here of those exactly. Are they Authentic?!πŸ€”
  12. I have used this method a lot. It does depend on there being clearly defined frame mouldings, and careful timing on the amount of 'dryness' of the paint. Of course it ONLY works with Acrylic paints. It will NOT work with enamel paints which bite into the plastic too much, too quickly. Enamel paints the only way is to make masks as described elsewhere. Another way to do it, if the frame lines are mostly straight is to use 'invisible' tape, (Scotch Magic tape) which I paint beforehand then cut thin strips at the frame width, stick them on the canopy and cut to length. A gentle blow with a hot air gun (or hairdryer) then melts the tape gum sufficiently to bind it to the canopy. Again you have to be careful with timing and heat! Too much heat and all you get is a sticky mess!
  13. How does ths Group Build work? I have a Brazilian version of the Heller Mirage I'm just about to start.....
  14. That's exactly what I was thinking of. Yes we can get it here. Thanks for the recommendation
  15. After some work with more isopropyl alcohol, and also paper towel and spit, + polishing papers, managed to get a smooth surface for repainting. I have not risked using that spray again. I'll look for something else. Finished canopy, fitted prop permanently. Now just waiting for new roundels. Ordered from Hannants. Just got to wait for the Post Office's transatlantic paddle steamer to make its way here..
  16. A disaster. I sprayed matt varnish (AK interactive which was recommended by the model shop), and for some reason it's turned to a white spotty residue. I shook the can up for the full recommended minute, and more, carefully sprayed a thin coat, left it to dry and--- horrible white residue everywhere. It's not a reaction with the paint, because I was able to remove the bulk of it with isoprpoyl alcohol and the paint is untouched... no idea why it has done this. I've never had anything like this happen before. So it looks like i'm going to have to rub it all down and repaint it. The only silver lining is it's just (just) the wings and tailplane top surfaces. But it does mean I'm going to have to find a new set of the wing upper roundels. Any suggestions as to what might have happened (and any source for new decals)
  17. Yellow leading edges and sky band. thanks to @dr_gn for tips on how to get the band straight. Any errors are entirely mine and no reflection on his fantastic skills.! Roundels applied. Some difficulty with the underwing roundels cos there's a blister bump right where the roundel goes. Not quite figured out how to get that properly situated... Codes to be applied, all those stencils to be applied, then a matt spray and on to the cockpit canopy... Oh and the radio hatch to fit. Anyone know how high the hatch goes? I have the well known pic of the open radio hatch from the walkaround book, but because of the angle of the pic, that's not clear on showing how far up it opens. Is it just to 90degrees or further? ()
  18. How did you get the shape for the sky band? I know its a compound curve and just sticking two straight bits of tape won't do it. Is there a template? (I'm currently working on 1/24 spitfire, but I can scale up easily if you know of a template.)
  19. I made full size camo template (photoshop), then cut masking tape to shape. Then first coat of ocean grey, using 'Talento', a Brazilian brand that I had in my stock. Seems very good, good coverage, and smooth finish, that looks like it won't even need a second coat.
  20. There'll be snickers at that one. (groan emoji)
  21. Amazing how many of these jokes are either from ISIHAC or early goons. Anyway let's do the ISIHAC guests at the ball jokes first off let's welcome Mr and Mrs Roid and their daughter...... Emma
  22. Green! The Tamiya spray can is only good for four very thin spray coats, and I think it actually needs one more. It's a lot of plane!
  23. Mine failed in several places. Airfix use a three part structure and the primary failure was right at the top joint between the "knuckle" and the actual leg. To be fair, maybe I misasligned or misglued it, but I don't think so. Secondly was the wheel axles themselves, which it is fairly imperative you replace with metal rods. My typhoon has not experienced any flakπŸ˜΅β€πŸ’« ! It's only ever been on static display, and over time the sheer weight caused the failure.
  24. Hope you're planning to re-inforce the undercarriage legs, because as supplied by Airfix for the typhoon, they are notoriously weak.... I've redone mine several times, and I think I'm going to bite the bullet and get the metal ones.
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