Mycapt65

Stunning!

That's cool thank you. Do you have any idea how this plane would have been armed?

I did want to do 186 until I just read its a bogus scheme and it seems like it had a short uneventful service. There's a second RAAF Beau on that decal sheet with a lion's head on the nose. Maybe I'll do that one or I'll do a spurious generic one. It doesn't bother me to make up my own markings once in a while if they are plausible and consistent with existing examples. Thanks all for the help. I'll dig more here for the necessary information. Be well Ron

Sorry I tried to load the pictures directly but not having any luck. The insert image box turns red and then nothing. This system of posting photos here is convoluted and aggravating

I have an old Aeromaster sheet and a Tamiya Beaufighter mkVI kit. I'd like to build the one in this artwork but I'm not sure if it's a real plane and if so how would it be armed. Seems some of the Mk21s had different wing guns and American zero length rocket launchers. The artwork shows torpedo shackles and no rockets. I'm looking to see if this would be an easy build with what's in the box. Thanks https://flic.kr/p/2nmdBFC

Absolutely 34079. Is good match for the dark green. Well in general. We all know there's variance in paint manufacturers color depicictions

The colors whether locally sourced or not are a dead ringer for the US SEA colors. Skip the 34102 if you're going to do the single green

There's undoubtedly two greens in the plane in the foreground of that picture. It's a good quality picture and it's easily picked out. The aircraft behind it looks it might have a single green. It's the darker of the two. It's your build make it the way you want to.

Ugh! You wasted all those perfectly good BB gun targets and firecracker receptacles. As a kid every model I got bored with or didn't like how it came out got blown up to pieces. Lots of fun pretending it's in battle. That was long ago now I'm an adult. Aww who am I kidding I just shot up an Italeri A-10 5 years ago. I'm sorry for your loss.

Not sure if this has been noted already. If you look carefully at this picture there's two greens on this plane and of course the tan. I believe these are the same greens and tan as the American SEA scheme. They look a dead nuts match. The underside would likely be light grey. It looks almost white in most photos because it's very light and the high contrast to the greens.

The old Solvaset would dissolve most decals with generous applications. It used to even say, for removing decals. It's worth a try

High tack (regular) masking tape. It should lift the decal without the paint. If it lifts the paint, you need to reconsider your paint choices

https://flic.kr/p/2niXCsXCould this be the plane in the picture? Perhaps the code letter is a B and not an E and the photo mislabeled?

I'd find or make markings for a plane without the D2 features. I'm sure there were some regular Ds there. Way to much work for a non specific subject. If you had a specific plane in mind because it had some significance to you then I'd say scratch build away. To me the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

Thanks for the kind words. I'm not entirely sure mine will sit on it's wheels either. It should but if it don't, I'll sneak more in the front gear bay. A little weight up front is equal to a lot in the nacelles. I've added so much weight to the nacelles on other twins that the landing gear needed metal reinforcing rods. The additional weight made the model very heavy while not helping much to bring the nose down. It was too far back to be effective. If this one doesn't sit on its gear after the loading the front gear bay, I'll either put the kit supplied barrel under the tail or let it tail sit. Luckily these were notorious tail sitters.

Looks great. It's my favorite jet. They are absolutely sick to watch maneuver at air shows. Mind blowing to see it turn around inside the width of the airstrip. I thought the wings were gonna break off. They were built 3 miles from were I grew up and a coworker of mine was a Fairchild field service engineer and has lots of cool stories about the plane. Love that plane and love your portrayal of it. Well done you!

I never tried it on water based acrylics. It will remove laquers and enamels safely. Some water based acrylics can be removed with ammonia.

There's a ton of responses to this and I'm too lazy to read them all. Every kit I build is stripped and repainted completely at least three times. NO JOKE! Only because I suck at modeling. Here it is!, the secret to my non success is Mr.Color thinner. It removes paint with out destroying plastic or glue joints. I used to use ELO (easy lift off). There was nothing easy about it. The plastic became brittle and useless. The Mr.Color thinner doesn't affect anything that meet a standards

Wow! It looks so good it makes my want to build one and I don't even like the type.

Started to add fasteners to the cowlings The kit props looked backwards so I reshaped the props and squared the tips. Just started painting the props.

Here's my Mustang MkIa. Circa late 44. Except for the loose landing gear fit this kit was a joy to build. I made some minor changes. I fixed the spinner fit, thinned the prop blades, improved the radiator look and scratch built proper English cannons. I painted all the markings except the serial number. Overall I'm very happy with it.

Omg! That's beautiful!

Following

Thanks, other than my homemade nose job and aftermarket wheels it's gonna be OOB. The changes were necessary because the kit nose is horribly wrong and and the original vinyl tires melt the plastic wheels.

As I'm cruising through threads, I'll click on the one that I've been following and it always takes me to the opening post. It's cumbersome when the thread is already 5 plus pages long and I've already read most of them. How do I go directly to my first unread post? Thank you. Forgive me I'm new here. Ron