gigi

Thank you very much Alex. Should have a good starting point now. I did check out some internet pictures but you never know what paint would match the colour. This way at least I have something to try and convert. Ultimately it's not rocket surgery and I'm not fussed if it doesn't match reality perfectly. I don't think I have ever seen one of these in the flesh so to me the model will be more real than the real thing.

Thank you very much that would be great.

Does anyone have the English version of the instruction pamphlet that comes with the kit, please? I am interested to know what colours they recommend. Alternatively, if anyone knows the Tamiya equivalents that would be fine too. Thank you.

Thank you Dave, yes, I have read that. The problem is not getting lines straight, I can do that easily. Problem is the paper sometimes had a microscopically frazzled edge which is amplified by the paint and when you peel off the tape your line looks like you drew it with a hacksaw blade. Looks good from 1metre away, but close up it is just horrible. I have never had success with Tamiya tape, not sure if you talk about the vinyl or the paper one, I have used both and found they don't stick properly and the paper version left horrible edges, so I moved back to 3M. I cut straight strips with a brand new scalpel blade every time using silicone paper as backing. I also keep my masking tapes in plastic bags right out of the package so they don't capture any fluff on the edge. I press the tape with a plastic card on the edge multiple times on application. Still get the odd hairy edge and don't know why. Just to make it clear, I am talking about very fine detail. You wouldn't be able to see it in a picture unless up close.

That looks truly wonderful. Can I ask how did you get those masking lines so crisp? What masking tape/process did you use? And the decals (especially those on the tailfin) , how did you apply those? Did you use any top/clear coat?

I am not sure what kind of abuse to expect either because my son is very innovative. Drove an RC truck under the fence for instance. Paint did get a bit scratched and an indicator came off but the paint did not have any protective top coat and who expects indicators to be at the corners? Generally speaking I think he just scratches things by touch for some reason. Or maybe it's the dirt and sand on his hands, who knows? I expect I will have to clean all sorts of muck off the plane at the very least. Maybe I should just paint it with hammerite. Thanks for the tips, hopefully the decals will take it. Does the dilution proportion matter or is it diluted just to be able to spray it?

Thank you guys. No, we don't have Halfords, but I am sure we have something else. But since there is no info around (and I know nothing about these), I am reluctant to go and buy a bunch of cans and try them out. Are those Halfords paints acrylic? Trying to paint some Tamiya models in the past (radio controlled stuff) I have come against the same problem of trying to achieve a tough paint job to withstand some abuse in the real world and I think I have a can of Krylon crystal clear from back then. Is that of any use here? I have also tried some urethane coatings, but am not that convinced (though Tamiya themselves advertise this kind of coating on some of their ready painted R/C cars). Not sure what they used though. They don't have anything like that in their lineup. The ones I found (single component) didn't convince me. What do you need to use to seal decals? And another question is about the effect of primer on top coats. From past experience I know the primer colour has some impact on the top colour hence I would like to know how the various Tamiya plastic primer (I have all versions here) would impact say white (because I will have a lot of white). What is your experience?

Just received the kit today from Japan, and quite impressed with the quality. Not exactly on equal to Zvezda in fine detail but very close. So the first question is, do you guys rough up the surface before painting or just go at it with primer directly? And another question, what do you guys prefer, enamel or acrylic? I understand enamel looks better and wears harder but given I won't have all the time in the world to build it, I am inclined to use acrylic. I hope I will be able to cover it with some hard wearing clear when finished if there is such a thing. Please feel free to enlighten if that is possible (or not). I will probably use Tamiya paints simply because they are the only brand available in Australia with their entire range, which makes my life a little bit easier in terms of compatibility of paints/primers/clears, etc. If anyone does however know of some miraculous combination of paints based on other brands, please let me know. I can try to chase something up if it is worth the effort. And just to make it clear, my ultimate goal is to end up with a tough paintjob that will stand up to some abuse and will be easy to clean.

Thank you. Sounds encouraging. I will have a look when the kits arrive.

I have been looking online for some info about these kits (I have a couple on the way) and wanted to know if it is at all possible to build them with retractable landing gear. Couldn't find anything but expect someone must have tried. Anyone with some insight here?

I take it that masking stuff (Mr Masking) is similar to something I have used in the past, a sort of rubbery solution of jelly consistence, also water soluble. Great idea to try applying before installing the windows. Thank you, I had forgotten about that stuff.

Thank you guys. From the answers it seems to me I have not made myself clear. My dilemma is about kits that come with plastic window moldings. I know I could just leave them out and use one of the methods explained above, but I really like the plastic windows. Could never come up with a satisfactory method to use them. One way out is to not paint the plane, I know that one. Another solution is to paint the plane but not around the windows. This is feasible when the chosen livery helps by not having any paint around the windows or when you have stickers that extend enough above and below the windows like say an Aeroflot type livery or similar. Fortunately there are many airliners like that. That way you can always run a strip of masking tape narrower than the decal over the windows and paint away confident that the decal will overlap the paint edges. The problem is with designs that require full fuselage solid paint so when you have to cover both the shut lines and the windows area in one shot so to speak. I guess I could paint the body in two stages. First stage paint the windows area on both fuselage halves, install the windows then glue the halves. Second stage dress and paint the shut lines whilst masking the window area with some soft edge masking foam or such. Problem is, I am not that confident with my painting skills. Hopefully someone has done this type of thing before.

To explain my dilemma I need to mention that I am talking about plastic molded windows, not stickers. So my dilemma is that if I put the windows in before I assemble the fuselage I am in for the mother of all masking jobs when it comes time to paint. Just think of a 747 model or something like that. Well, pretty much any passenger airliner. If I paint first (before joining the fuselage halves) I have no idea how to dress the join lines to make them invisible or at least pretty come join time. So what do you do?

Thank you. I was wondering about these kits, there are so many these days, you don't know what to expect. The kits I am familiar with were quite easy to put together and had reasonable detail, minimal decals and were probably injection moulded. You didn't even need to paint them if you didn't want to. Maybe I can get him one of the kits I put together as a kid, hehehehe! We could then compare outcomes. Good point about the chemicals.

I was thinking about that. 1/100 seems like a good compromise. This is the scale am used too as well because as a kid I had the East German kits.