Neil
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Posts posted by Neil
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On 6/23/2019 at 10:27 AM, HartDeco said:
Years ago I managed to buy a Paragon wingfold set. Unfortunately these are getting pretty hard to come by these days.
I manufactured and sold so many of those Wing Fold sets when I was running Paragon Designs, they were always a good seller, yet I saw very few of them built up on a finished model. So nice to see them on such an expertly finished Viking!
Superb model, very, very good, things like the weathering have been captured perfectly. I congratulate you on such a finely finished model.
Fantastic!
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On 6/20/2019 at 1:26 PM, Neil said:
Not fixed the nose u/c doors in place yet because I still need to find out how much, if any, weight will need adding inside the nose to stop it tail-sitting. Because of the solid resin engines and some of the internal resin seats, I may not need to add too much weight in there, because they are forward of the main u/c legs.
Forgot to add, my assumption that I would not need much weight in the nose was completely wrong, it still needed 10g of .22 lead airgun pellets in the nose to stop it tail-sitting. Added a few details on the wheel hubs and u/c legs with some tiny discs in 0.25mm plastic, using a Waldron punch and die set, the torque links will be added once the legs are fitted permanently, and while rummaging around in my stash of spares from my 'Paragon Designs' days, the etched brass fret from one of my 1/72 A-26A / B-26K Counter Invader conversions quite handily has one of those pointy horseshoe shaped aerials that I will need for the top of the fuselage, and also a couple of windscreen wipers which are just the right size. Bonus!
Because I removed all the rivet detail from the kit, and drastically thinned down all of the trailing edges of the wings/tailplanes/fin, not surprisingly all of the ribbing which really should be on the ailerons/elevators/rudder was lost, so I have a plan to put it back again. I have not tried this before, but have wanted to see if this works for a while now, and what I intend to do to replicate the ribbing is to use the Raised Panel Line set from Archer Fine Transfers cut into small lengths, and applied to the control surfaces. This set contains three different widths of fine raised lines, which are actually very thin beads of resin on a clear decal backing. I will probably use the thinnest lines, to see how it looks. Fingers crossed ...... !
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On 6/22/2019 at 7:48 AM, jyguy said:
I never realized the difference in main gear location between the mark 1 and 2.
Neither did I, and very nearly missed it myself, until I looked very closely at as many pics as I could. I suppose all these little differences and subtle changes are what keep things a touch more interesting really! Quite a challenge to spot some of them, when trying to research some aircraft.
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Flaps and u/c fairings have been fixed in position, for the moment the legs with the wheels on them are just push fitted in place into the fairings. Now, when making the u/c fairings, I noticed something that had not registered with me before and on first looks at the main u/c legs is not immediately apparent. On aircraft with the non-retractable undercarriage, the main u/c legs with the fairings exit from the very rear portion of the inboard nacelle tips. Aircraft with retractable undercarriage have the main u/c leg attachment points exit from the flat wing underside, just to the outboard side of the nacelles. It is possible to just see the difference if you look closely at pics, for example scroll through the pics on the Heron Walkaround section on here on Britmodeller and you should spot it. In the walkaround section there are aircraft with both types of u/c legs, link below:
You can make out the fixed main u/c leg attachment points in this pic too, of a Heron landing:
A few pics of the flaps and u/c legs and fairings. As I mentioned above, note the main u/c leg positions on the rear of the nacelles ....
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1 hour ago, jyguy said:
I have a vague memory of Channel Herons carrying Air England titles at one time.
This one in the link below (the only one to have that written on it, according to the caption!).
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31 minutes ago, rob Lyttle said:
antimacassers....
What a word, eh?
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It was @Mike H who told me what those headrest thingies were called, you can thank him for that ....
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18 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:
This build is a real education on the Heron, and how to sort an old kit.
I have a notion to get the reissued kit and try my hand at improving it.
I even thought about the possibility of scratching a set of Lycoming engines for a Prinair carribean type.
So this is invaluable bit of reading.
Can't wait to see those flaps going on.
As a bit of a niggle regarding this boxing of my particular example, when they do reissue it I hope that they use a different plastic, the one on this one I am building is very soft, and a bit awkward to sand down and rescribe, a harder plastic would of been so much nicer to use. A Lycoming Prinair one would look rather nice, particularly the Orange scheme! The engines would not be too difficult to make.
8 hours ago, jyguy said:Hi Neil I'am following your build with interest having a interest in Channel Airways.Will you be producing your own decals?
Their could certainly be a cottage industry in your resin Engines, flaps and U/C fairings judging by other contributors comments and the forthcoming re release of the kit.I'd certainly purchase two sets of engines and gear fairings.
A friend and ex colleague lost a prop en route to Barcelona in a Fairflight Heron many moons ago which resulted in an unscheduled Nightstop on Jersey.As he says it was luck that that the departing Propellor did not damage its neighbour or the tail unit.
Nope, not producing my own decals, got round that problem by ordering a couple of 1/144 decal sheets from Classic-Airlines, of Channel Airways subjects. Things like fuselage letters/numbers and also cheat lines etc are not an issue, I can sort those out quite easily, the real issue are the words 'Channel Airways' on the upper fuselage sides of the Heron, above the windows, and the smaller 'Channel Airways' wording on the lower fin sides. Pic below shows how I got around this, the large 'Channel Airways' wording on the Viscount 800 sheet are ideal, size-wise, for the wording I need above the Heron fuselage windows, and the small 'Channel Airways' wording, in White with the Black border, on the fin of the HS 748 sheet is perfect for the fin wording on my Heron!
I kind of know what you mean about the resin components I have made for this Heron, there probably would be a market for them. I used to run my own business (Paragon Designs) for many years, manufacturing accessories and conversions for model aircraft kits in resin, photo-etch, vac form etc, although I only concentrated on military subjects, mainly in 1/72, 1/48, 1/32 and 1/24 scales. I never ventured into the civil/commercial aircraft type of model subjects, although judging by the reaction to these bits I have made for the Heron, maybe I should have
. If I started the company up again, it would probably pay me to do so!
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Thanks again for all the comments, much appreciated.
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Underside pic, showing the cutouts in the lower wingroot, and boxed in with plasticard, that extend inboard a little in order to accomodate the flaps. Not fixed the nose u/c doors in place yet because I still need to find out how much, if any, weight will need adding inside the nose to stop it tail-sitting. Because of the solid resin engines and some of the internal resin seats, I may not need to add too much weight in there, because they are forward of the main u/c legs.
Finally cast the fixed u/c leg fairings and flaps in resin, below. The smaller resin block in the upper left contains both fairings for the main u/c legs and also the nose leg fairing, and the two resin flaps are to the right. In the foreground on the left hand side are the three kit wheels, from what I can make out the diameters of them seem to be reasonably accurate, unfortunately they are all way too thin/narrow though, and hub detail is pretty much non-existant. In the right hand foreground are the wheels that will replace the kit ones, found after digging around in the spares box. The two large wheels are (I think....
) from a 1/72 S-3 Viking, and I rounded the squarish corners of the tread a little, to give a more curved appearance to them, and managed to remove some three-spoke hubs from a set of spare resin wheels that were on the workbench and graft them onto the S-3 wheels (the aircraft I am building had three-spoke hubs). The small wheel on the far right hand side is a spare tailwheel from a 1/72 Tamiya Mosquito, once it has been modified a little and removed from it's leg, it will then replace the kit nose wheel, as it is just the right size and appearance.
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On 6/18/2019 at 12:54 AM, Fazzman said:
Wow, what a really interesting article, and one close to my heart as an ex-de-Havilland man! I've even got one hidden in the stash somewhere. I'm definitely up for following this. One question I'd like to ask of everyone interested in Herons; does anyone know of a kit manufacturer who has produced a larger scaled version? I've been searching for months! (Apologies for the hijack).
To the best of my knowledge, there isn't one, not even a vac-form one. Mind you, something like a 1/48 version WOULD be very nice!
On 6/18/2019 at 9:07 AM, Terry1954 said:This is coming along splendidly Neil. I'd never noticed that difference in the cockpit roofing area between different aircraft and now having looked at a fe pictures of Jersey Airline Heron's and others, its quite clear.
Terry
Bit deceptive, isn't it? In side profile they all look very much the same (especially if the cockpit area is in White), but when you know what to look for, it then seems quite obvious. Nearly caught me out, believe me .... !
On 6/18/2019 at 10:56 AM, stevehnz said:Interesting watching & learning from your labours @Neil. I'm keen to get one (or so) of the re-released kits to do a NZNAC Heron mk 1 with the fixed U/C. I know this latter will in volve scratch building but I have long assumed the Heron cockpit was as the Dove till now. Having looked at a couple of photos of the NAC ones, I see they're as your modified roof line, but it is easy to be lead astray by the large fairing on the roof which can give a jumped look.
Steve.
Yes, I think the NZNAC Heron is the same as the one I am making regarding the cockpit area. The NAC one is a REALLY nice colour scheme too, one of the nicest out there ....
. Regarding the fixed U/C fairings, I managed to finish the master-patterns for mine today, the nose and main legs, and they are now resting in some silicone rubber in order for moulding, along with the separate flaps I finished earlier. The master-pattern for the front nose-leg fairing was remarkably awkward to sort out, especially in this scale, if it were in 1/48 it may of been a little easier to make, maybe not quite so fiddly in that scale!!
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It actually looks like an aeroplane. Wings and tailplanes are glued in place, the rudder tip has been extended with a piece of plasticard and shaped/profiled. Elevators have been 'kicked' downwards and all trim tab actuators (rudder, elevators, ailerons) have been replaced with small strips of plasticard, ready to be shaped when dry, some underwing, so not all are visible. There were a few tiny pinholes, where the clear sheet I inserted in place of the fuselage windows met the fuselage, so filled them with more superglue and will polish the clear sections later. Approx 99% of the rescribing is finished, just a few small access panels and such to sort out. The removed flap sections are clearly visible.
That annoying canopy:
. As mentioned earlier, the canopy in the kit is completely wrong for the example I am building, so it needs modifying. (In truth, the kit I bought was the Airfix Heron/Beaver/Trimotor triple box set, and the canopy is completely wrong for the 'Jersey Airlines' Heron included in there too .... 
). The top of the canopy was sanded down and profiled to the surrounding fuselage and blended in roughly for the moment, and will be finished off and polished more precisely just before the painting stage. When sanding down the canopy, it was inevitable that I was going to 'break-through' the canopy top, so this was made good as I went with a few applications of superglue and activator to fill the resultant void. Fortunately this will not be part of the transparent sections of the finished canopy, it will be painted later and there will also be the aerial/DF loop fairing to add on top of this also. The framing on the kit canopy is completely wrong (the flat, front panes are much too tall) and the front windscreen angle is much too vertical, it should slant backwards more. A couple of pics below, showing the 'before' and the partially modified canopy too.
Regarding the flaps, the master-patterns for the deployed ones are now completely finished and ready for moulding, to be cast in resin, and once the fairings for the fixed nose and main undercarriage legs are also finished (should be tomorrow .... ) they will all be moulded in silicone rubber at the same time. Should have some finished resin examples of all of these components in the next few days ......
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23 hours ago, Space Ranger said:
Ingenious!
And really quite simple/easy to achieve as long as the part being scribed is kept stationary/square/perpendicular and not moving in any way, and letting the scribing tool do all the work.
I have used this method in the past, with concentric circles on prop spinners for example, makes masking them up a lot easier with a defined, scribed/engraved line to mask up to.
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Fuselage halves are bonded together, so now the stage which I find probably the least enjoyable, the panel line engraving/scribing. The wings and tailplanes have been engraved, being relatively flat they were not too much of a problem, and most of the panel lines on the fuselage will be mainly straightforward too, except for one panel line which is right at the tip of the nose, and because of it's location is surprisingly awkward to engrave. I tried holding curved templates in place but that was impossible, and even thin strips of plastic tape placed in position, to scribe against, did not work either.
Fortunately, the panel line in question is perpendicular to the fuselage, so the fuselage was temporarily fixed to a small engineers square with a few small drops of superglue (easily detached later) and that in turn was then also fixed to a flat piece of alloy sheet, so that it is held squarely and vertically in place, and will not move. A sharp scribing tool was then fixed to a small flat piece of tooling block, so the tip is at the same height as the panel line that is to be engraved, and holding the tooling block flat against the alloy sheet, the tip of the scribing tool is lightly drawn around the nose, making several passes until a visible engraved line appears. The whole process does look a bit 'Heath Robinson' to be honest, but it does work! It is one way to engrave straight lines on compound curves and such. The rest of the panel lines on the fuselage will be relatively easy though, and will not need this method.
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On 6/9/2019 at 4:30 PM, Turbofan said:
Any passengers on the flight? Or crew doing some preflight checks?
Ian
Nope, afraid not
. Flaps will be dropped, elevators 'kicked' slightly and passenger entry door open though. I have a good picture of the passenger entry steps too, so may make those also (very different to the kit ones).
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Bit of colour at last. Interior has a couple of shades of Grey and the passenger seats given a coat of Dark Red, with the antimacassars (see, told you I would mention it @Mike H
) in White on each headrest. This aircraft also had Orange curtains, and these are replicated with strips of grooved plasticard, the masking tape on the port fuselage half is to give me an indication where the window frames will be, to aid in the positioning of the curtains, and gives an idea of how they will look from the outside. Just about ready to close the fuselage up now.
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Thank you kindly.
Both fuselage halves are now modified with the clear plastic insert, including the small window on the starboard side to the rear of the cabin windows. In their present state, the fuselage transparencies are slightly reminiscent of the Avro Anson, but without the framing! Have also now decided to leave the passenger entry door open too, so the clear window on that piece will be tackled slightly differently to the fuselage ones, because as it will be open, a 1.0mm thick transparent window in it may look quite noticeable, and not quite right, scale-wise. So, the window in the door was openned up to a dimension of 5mm x 5mm (it will now be the same height as the main passenger windows) and all detail was sanded off the kit door surfaces and then a piece of 0.25mm clear sheet bonded to it's outer surface and overlapping the doors external dimensions. This clear piece will be sanded down so that it is 'just' slightly larger than external door dimensions, so that it gives a similar appearance to the door on the real aircraft: a thinner outer face with a slightly smaller, thicker inner surface. Hopefully with a more scale-appearance window thickness too. The link below to the Jersey Airlines Heron may show what I am trying to achieve with the passenger entry door:
http://aviationanoraks.co.uk/Archive/2011/2011_04_16 DH Sea Heron G-AORG/slides/IMG_4710.jpg
The two horizontal pen lines across the entry door openning in the pic below, on the Port fuselage half, indicate where all of the passenger windows, and the entry door window, should line up when finished. This indicates that the door openning itself is not quite tall enough, the curved upper section to it will need raising just a fraction.
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The kit cockpit interior is sparse, to say the least, so added a few things to fill it up a little, not for the sake of accuracy but simply to avoid the 'totally empty' look.Cockpit sidewalls and two separate, modified, control columns were taken from a couple of spare 1/72 Tamiya Mosquito BIV's I had, and two more resin seats that I cast with added tape seat-belts were installed in the cockpit. In truth, very little of this will be seen on the finished model, but at least 'something' is in there. Both underwing undercarriage bays were blanked off with resin/plasticard, as the retractable undercarriage is redundant because my aircraft was fitted with the fixed, non-retractable undercarriage (to be added later). The White 'coffin-lid' thingy is the cockpit entry door, cut from plasticard, which will probably be posed in the open position, and also note that the kit flaps have been removed from the wing trailing edges, these are now in the process of being made and will also be cast in resin, ready for installation on the model.
The kit transparency fuselage windows are awful, very thick and chunky, and with horrible sink-marks in them from the moulding process, but ironically they are pretty much bang-on size wise regarding the fuselage window opennings in which they fit. However, because they are exactly the right size, this does pose a problem. If the transparencies are glued in position there is a visible glue 'join' mark where they meet the fuselage, which will be visible if the windows are masked off to exact size when the fuselage is airbrushed. To avoid this unsightly join mark, the fuselage window area was openned up slightly larger than the total window area, and an oversized piece of 1.0mm clear plastic glued in place of it, and sanded flush with the fuselage outer surface, then polished, so when the windows are masked and sprayed, no window-to-fuselage join line will be visible. (The port fuselage half, in the pic below, has been modified in this way, with the oversized clear plastic piece superglued in place, ready for masking when the model is at the painting stage). The small square windows to the rear of the starboard fuselage side windows, and also on the entry door, will also be given the same treatment. The rudder tip also needs to be heightened.
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On 5/19/2019 at 10:43 AM, janneman36 said:
Same name and great quality casting
1+1 isn’t always 2
cheers
Then why write complete nonsense and a blatant lie about somebody, if you have not even bothered to check if your facts are correct in the first place?
Neil.
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55 minutes ago, Terry1954 said:
The seats look really good from inside and out. Excellent thread.
Terry
Now if I had my thinking head on, I really ought to take that seat/floor assembly and mould it as is .... it would then be a one-piece casting and not 14 x separate seats and a floor to assembly.
Thanks for all the comments on these past couple of pages by the way everybody, much appreciated.
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Just for a comparison, I temporarily tacked the port wing engines and overwing nacelles in position, and did the same with the starboard wing but using the kit engines. As mentioned previously, the inboard overwing section extends back towards the trailing edge by a couple of milimetres more, and the outboard ones by maybe 3 or 4mm, and they also finish to a sharper 'point'. The locating tab on the port wing is also trimmed so that it does not interfere with the seats when they are installed. The wing trailing edges are massively thick (as are the aileron ones) but I will sort those out later as I have now also decided to drop the flaps for a bit more visual interest. In the cabin portion of the fuselage, the 'corner' junction where the floor meets the sides was Dremelled out a little to make sure that the new floor/seat assembly fits properly. Have also included a front view of the port wing, to campare with the standard kit starboard one.
A strip of 0.5mm plasticard was marked out as the new cabin floor, and the seats glued in position. They are all spaced evenly but one thing worth noting is that the spacing for them is slightly more than the even spacing of the side windows, so the seats do NOT line up evenly with each window, something which is quite noticeable on side photo's of Herons. The small light blue object is a piece of loose tooling block with a chamfer on it the same angle as the seat backs, just as an aid to getting all the seats leaning back at the same angle when being fixed in position.
Did a dry-run of placing the floor assembly inside the fuselage, just to check that it fits. All hunky dory so far, quite happy with that.
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On 5/18/2019 at 9:22 AM, kev67 said:
Good work, what resin did you use
The resin is Sika Biresin G26, easy to use and very little smell to it.
23 hours ago, FortyEighter said:Hi Neil
Having followed your 720 thread, I'm sure this will be very informative too.
What did you use to make the masters for your resin seats and engines?
Mike
To make the patterns/masters you can use pretty much anything. The seat master is a modified kit seat out of the spares box (plastic) and the engine master is a canibalised and heavily modified engine out of the Heron kit, with pieces of tooling block (or tooling board) grafted on in places.
23 hours ago, Turbofan said:Hi Neil,
Fantastic start, I'm really looking forward to following this.
Brilliant work on the replacement parts but after your replacement engines on the 720 I'm not surprised!
How do the decals look?
'Bite through the chocolate and chew.....real slow,' anyone remember Texan bars?
Cheers,
Ian
The decals arrived last week, and fortunately enough they are just the job, very pleased!
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22 minutes ago, janneman36 said:
Make that eight haha or are they going to appear in the aim72 range...Neil ?
cheers, Jan
Huh?
I have no involvement, and never had any kind of connection with that range of products. They are nothing to do with me.
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As a bit of a follow on from my recently finished Boeing 720 'Led Zeppelin' model, I decided to keep things non-military again and build something that I have really wanted to do for a very, VERY long time. This goes back to when I was a very young lad, and was memorable for me bacause it was the very first time that I ever flew in an aeroplane, which was quite an event for me at the time of course, and I can still remember how much I enjoyed it. I was very much into aircraft and model building even then, and since then have always toyed with the idea of building the first aircraft I flew in. The occasion was our first family holiday 'overseas' back in the early 70's, which was to Jersey, in the Channel Islands, and we flew out of Norwich Airport (formerly RAF Horsham St Faith) in my home City.
The aircraft in question is the DH 114 Heron of 'Channel Airways' and the kit is the jolly old 1/72 Airfix one. The one I shall be building is G-AXFH, pic in the link below. As a bit of a side-note, the picture below states it is taken at Southend (Channel Airways were based out of Southend) but myself and a friend of mine, Mike H, have a slight doubt about that, and the pic may 'possibly' be taken at Norwich Airport instead. We are still looking into that ....
https://www.airteamimages.com/de-havilland-heron_G-AXFH_channel-airways_180161_large.html
Being of a certain vintage of course, the 1/72 Airfix kit is obviously not state-of-the-art as of today, so things will be changed/modified/scratchbuilt, and some of the things that will need attention are:
Exterior airframe surface: All detail will be removed and rescribed.
The interior: There isn't one ....
. There are two very basic cockpit seats and instrument panel (no control columns) and pretty much nothing in the passenger cabin, so all 14 seats will be cast in resin and added.
Transparencies: Cockpit canopy is of the wrong type for the aircraft I am building (it has the bulged section that protrudes above the fuselage) so this will need modifying. Fuselage windows look to be pretty accurate size-wise, but the corners are too 'square' and should be more rounded, and the clear window mouldings have horrible sink-marks/dimples from the moulding process, so these will be changed. Landing light needs adding under the wing. Also the small square windows on the starboard side of the fuselage and port side passenger entry door, aft of the main passenger windows, are slightly too small and too low. They should be the same centre height as the main windows.
Wheels/undercarriage: Kit has the retractable type undercarriage which is wrong for the aircraft I need, so will be changed to the fixed non-retractable type. Wheels are horrible and will be changed.
Engines/overwing nacelle fairings: Engines look very basic, small intakes on them are very non-descript 'lumps' and the intake at the front, below the prop hub, is too small. The overwing nacelle fairings do not extend back far enough towards the trailing edge of the wing. The inboard ones need to extend back maybe a couple of millimetres, and the outboard ones maybe around 3mm or so. New engines and overwing fairings will be cast in resin.
Wing tips: Need to be squared off.
Fin/rudder: Again, the one in the kit is wrong for the aircraft I am building. The rudder will be modified into the taller, 'pointier' type, and it and the fin tip will not have the characteristic bulge on them as per the kit one.
No doubt there will be other odds and ends that need sorting along the way too ....
Have made an initial start on some of the modifications, and the pic below shows the new overwing nacelle fairings, the 14 passenger seats for the cabin and also the new engines, all cast in resin. With the engines, I added a finely finned section just inside the intake mouth to hopefully simulate the appearance of an engine cylinder/barrel, although it is not really visible in the pic. Hopefully should be more apparent with a drop of paint on it.
As we are now travelling back in time to the 1970's, any references to Kipper Ties, Flares, Glam Rock, The Double Deckers, Tiswas, Spangles, Corona, Space Hoppers and Raleigh Choppers are not only tolerated they are positively encouraged.
'Jumpers for goalposts ......'
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8 hours ago, Skodadriver said:
You can order with confidence. I've used many Classic Airlines decals over the years and seldom had any issues. Nick only sells direct, you won't find Classic Airlines decals on any other site. His mail order is good, not usually "by return" but reliable and efficient.
Like any other cottage industry/part-time manufacturer things can occasionally go awry. I once received a set of Viscount decals with only one cheatline but an e-mail to Nick with a scan of the offending sheet produced an immediate apology and a replacement within a couple of days.
One thing to bear in mind is that all Classic Airlines decals are laser printed so they are translucent and must be applied over a white background. They are also printed with continuous carrier film and each individual piece needs to be carefully trimmed. If you've used laser printed decals before you won't have any problems.
Placement instructions are pretty much non-existent apart from a side view. Usually placement is self-evident but sometimes you have to be prepared to use your own references and research
Hope that helps
Dave G
8 hours ago, Eric Mc said:Nick also attends Scalemodelworld at Telford each November so I have bought stuff directly from him at this event.
2 hours ago, Viking said:Neil, Skodadriver Dave has already given a full answer and I agree with every word he says. I'll just add this post to say I've also ordered many time from Nicks website and found his service to be top notch. Order with confidence!
Cheers
John
1 hour ago, Dave Swindell said:
Wot they say!
Right oh, that's good enough for me, much appreciated, thanks for the input ......
. I will be popping an order into Nick's website a.s.a.p.
This will be a 1/72 DH Heron, in Channel Airways markings. Unfortunately the only decals available in this livery are in 1/144 only (CA144-157) which is a little frustrating to be perfectly honest ......
This is the scheme I intend to do, below:
https://www.airteamimages.com/de-havilland-heron_G-AXFH_channel-airways_180161.html
However, I have been messing around with, and faffing about with, pics of decal sheets, scaling up and scaling down pics and drawings etc online for a couple of days now, and I think I have solved the problem. The wording Channel Airways in Black above the fuselage side windows 'should' be of the correct size/height/length on sheet No. CA144-095 for the Viscount, and the wording Channel Airways in White surrounded in Black on the fin/rudder 'should' be of the correct size/height/length on sheet No. CA144-108 for the HS 748.
A bit convoluted I know, to use two separate 1/144 decal sheets to achieve a few 1/72 words, but it would save me getting all wrapped up in clear decal film sheets, printers, scaling up, scaling down, mis-printing several times, lots of swearing etc etc ..... and generally getting annoyed possibly. You probably get the idea. If it works out, then good, but if it does not, well ......
1/48 Italeri (Esci) S-3 Viking with folded wings
in Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
Posted
I still own all of the masters, patterns and moulds for all of the Paragon range, and I have seen some of the prices that my sets have made on various web and auction sites, and many, MANY times I have thought about getting back into the business and re-issuing some of them!
Maybe one day I will actually do something about it, and do so!!
Once again, an outstanding S-3 Viking you have made there.