Neil

Now then, I wonder who is going to build himself one of those ......

Nicks models in Limassol is/was/maybe on 'Archiepiskopou Leontiou I' street, if I remember correctly, I tried to drop in there a few months back but the place looked empty to be honest, and one of the large front windows was smashed. Wether it was closed on the day of the week that I called, or under renovation, or new ownership or closed permanently I could not say. It may be worth trying to phone the shop first before anybody calls in personally, if only to find out if it is still open. Hopefully it is still open, for all of the shops quirkiness I loved the place when I lived there. I will be there again in about 3 weeks so I will try and find out for definate if it is still trading, if only to satisfy my own curiosity.

Not been able to make much progress unfortunately, but the replacement flaps are slowly coming on. The flap actuator channels have been glued in position as accurately as possible using the marked lines as a guide, the gaps around the channels and overall outline of the flaps were marked out and cut from pieces of 1.5mm thick plastic which, for the moment, have simply been placed in position but will be fixed permanently with superglue. The gaps arround the channels and the 1.5mm plastic do not have to be particularly close or precisely cut, plenty of superglue will be used to fix everything together which will fill any oversized gaps as a matter of course. Superglue activator will be used to speed the curing up a bit; as a rule I generally do not spray the Superglue activator directly onto the wet glue and the part which is being fixed in position, this can sometimes overheat the curing glue and make a nasty cracking and crazing effect, potentially spoiling the bonded parts. Simply spray some activator onto a piece of cloth or cardboard for example and place the superglued part and cloth/cardboard (sprayed with activator) under a conveniently sized box-lid or similar. The vapour from the activator will cure the superglue without having to physically come into contact with it, avoiding any overheating/cracking/crazing effects. Once everything is sanded flush, shaped and profiled, the flaps should be an improvement on the simplified kit items.

No problem, nobody is going to rain on my parade. Threads have been reported, including one in the 'Chat' section.

Good point. With a 300mm (12") ruler.

Been a while since I have posted anything (or done any modelling for that matter) but I tentatively started this late last year and about a month ago decided to actually crack on with it. It is the 1/144 Minicraft kit of the B-52 'H' and hopefully will end up as aircraft 60-0006, which was to become a trials aircraft of the EVS systems, although it was unfortunately destroyed in the mid 1970's. From all the pics I have managed to find of this 'plane, they all seem to of been taken at some point when the aircraft had, what appears to be, somewhat 'newish' paint applied to the wing leading edges and engine nacelles, this is how I intend to model it. The fuselage nose section, drop tanks, fin, tail-planes and rear fuselage band will be a more 'used' and weathered Trainer Orange. Undersides will be in white, and the remainder of the fuselage and upper wing surfaces will be in lovely 'natural metal' (i.e. Alclad shades). The intention is to have this as an enjoyable kind of laid-back (ish) kind of build, I am NOT going to the degree to make it as ultimately accurate as possible, I do not want to get too 'Anoraky' about things, so if there is a panel line somewhere that is 0.00001mm out of place I really am not worried about it. Although having said all that, I will give the basic kit a few tweaks here and there, things such as the kit supplied flaps are a little simple, they will be replaced with some scratch built items. So ...... 'The futures bright ...... the futures Orange ......' Main sub-assemblies mostly ready, canopy screen is superglued in position and will be polished and masked before spraying. There were some very nasty sink marks in the upper wing surface and these have been sanded out. Engine nacelle assemblies have had the inlet fronts opened up (along with the exhaust outlets) to make them look a little less 'clunky' a touch more refined. Modified nacelle on the right. Engine pylons behind the exhaust outlets have had a piece of 0.5mm thick x 7mm wide plasticard added and then shaped and sanded to achieve a more acceptable kind of silhouette profile. Finished profile in lower pic, not 100% accurate but good enough. The beginnings of the replacement flaps. Kit supplied flaps are at the lower part of the pic, replacements are marked out on a piece of thin plasticard and the flap actuator channels, made from parallel sections of strip, simply placed in position for the moment. Gaps around the channels and flap edges will be filled in with suitable pieces of 1.5mm thick plastic strip, then flap outline cut out, shaped and sanded to profile.

I used a CMK interior on one of my FBXVIII 'Molins' conversions. Once painted it looks quite good. Painted cockpit pics are in link: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1803&hl=Neil Neil.

Noticed that you are looking for tips on fitting various resin bits (flaps etc) amongst other things. Link to build article below shows alot of resin bits fitted, including bits you probably are not using too..... http://s362974870.on...opic=57622&st=0 Underside of the wings showing cut out areas for flaps are on first or second page I think.

From memory, the 1/32 PR Canopy was available for approx 10yrs, it was issued around the same time as the other 1/32 Mosquito sets. The top blister on the PR Canopy was offset to stbd, over the Nav's position, but the blisters on the sides of the canopy were entire bulged sections and were not the teardrop shaped ones. The side blisters on the Bomber Canopy were teardrop shaped though.

Funny you should say that, the thought had crossed my mind a while back. Oddly enough I was speaking to Gary (Mungo1974) about this only a day or two back. I still own all of the moulds, masters, etc etc for the whole Paragon range.

Yes, there was one in the Paragon range (1/72 and also 1/48 in fact).

The Airfix Jag is not really as bad as some make it out to be .... Linky: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.p...259&hl=Neil

Here you go Pat, regarding your text from a few minutes ago, pics of the etched front fins fron the Python 3 and 4's. Not identical to AIM 9's, but they are very easily modified. Will dig some out for you in the next day or two.

Coming along nicely, bit of a b****r about those decals not fitting. Pat, not sure if it would be of any use to you, but don't forget I have etched front fins from Python 3 and Python 4 missiles here, which you could potentially use on the front of the AIM 9's without too much modification possibly? If you want to try them. Could drop some round to your place if I am passing (or post them). Neil.

From what I can make out then, there is pretty much nothing out there at all really, is there?!! The only option may be to scratchbuild some and cast them in resin, in that case.

Just a quick question, are there any readily available modern weapons out there in 120mm scale? Weaponry such as M4's, M16's, ACR's, M9's, G18's, UZI etc etc ....?? Many thanks.

Yup, that pretty much sums up how I intended the lights to be done. Just a note regarding the drop tanks; the drop tanks in the kit are a very peculiar size and shape, they are way too big to be 50gal drop tanks but also too small to be 100gal drop tanks. That is why I made replacement 50gal and 100gal drop tanks in resin, just in case anybody was wondering!

Wrong. You do NOT then own the copyright for any particular item if you do that. Neil.

I did an In Progress of NT225 using the 1/48 Tamiya kit, and had the same predicament regarding the nose colour. In the end I did the nose and the 57mm belly panel in Ocean Grey, looked about right to me, give or take ...... (at the end of the day, nobody can prove it is wrong!). Linky thingy is below, which also shows the tailplane roots with a coat of Red Dope/Primer. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1803

Julien is right, there is (or was??) one there. I had a complete walkaround set of pics on memory stick, but I am b******d if I can find them now. The only ones on my PC are these three ....

I do have a few of the ladders left.

The two-seat Jaguar conversion (48095) is the basic T2 variant, although to be honest it does not take a great deal to make it into a later T4 version. Going from memory, I think it is basically a case of altering cockpit internals, i.e. the front and rear HUD and changing the circular moving map display on the instrument panels to the 'square' (ish) MFD. Front HUD and instrument panel: Rear HUD and instrument panel: Or there is always the In Progress thingy on ARC (it says T2 on the forum title, but it is a T4!!) http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....showtopic=57622

I will bump this up again, as I am still having problems finding very clear shots of the attachment clips. If anybody can help, it would be jolly handy!

I have managed to rustle up several general pics of the various rails used etc, what I desparately need are clear shots of the attachment clips themselves as used on the Mosquito, I am considering doing them in photo-etch.