Neil
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Posts posted by Neil
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9 hours ago, Drift said:
Yep. was upgraded to 384cc, and full exhausts.Damn thing was loud.
Well well, learn something every day! Brilliant. Never realised they did that for the LC's. Know what you mean about loud too, had Micron exhausts on mine for a while, bit awkward to live with after a while though.
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9 hours ago, Drift said:
Memories, I had one of these with a full Yoshi kit. Went like the clappers. Didnt know you could get a model of them.
Did Yoshimura make stuff for the 350 LC?
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Lee, a brilliant choice if ever there was one! I have such good memories of the 350 LC, had one in the very same Blue and White scheme pictured on the box lid ...
I had faster and larger capacity 'bikes after the 350 LC, but never had as much pure enjoyment and fun on them as I did on the Yamaha. This brings back so many memories of skimmed cylinder heads, raised exhaust ports, extra base gaskets, knife edged transfer ports, Boyesen reeds, Allspeed 'pipes (or Microns for that razor thin powerband!) Mine had the bikini faring too, and the belly pan, fitted some multi adjustable bars too which were from a Laverda Jota. Initially ran it on 'Castrol R' when I first bought it .... such an evocative smell!!
Regarding the Tamiya kit, I think they also produced a kit of the RZ 250?? (in a Black scheme?) which may of used the same wheel sprues as the 350 kit. If they did, the cush-drive assembly for the sprocket on the rear wheel of the 350 kit may be wrong; the sprocket cush-drive on the 350 was an assembly of large rubber blocks fitted inside a large diameter alloy housing (more or less the same diameter as the drum brake on the opposite side of the rear wheel). The 250 cush-drive assembly were small individual rubber inserts which the sprocket bolted to, on the less substantial sprocket side of the rear wheel. Basically, the RZ/RD 350 kit 'may' have the wrong 250 style rear wheel.
Again, great choice of kit to build.
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Very little spare time recently (no surprise there) but just managed to add some basic splashes of colour to a few things. Body is now Orange at last, and most of the internal Black items are coated in a Semi Gloss finish. Seats and headrests in an initial basic coat of White and the resin wheels sprayed in Alclad ALC 101 with the tyres brushed painted in Humbrol Black. Steering wheel centre sprayed in Alclad too, just needs the Black rim adding. Detail painting of the internals will be done as and when time permits, which is no bad thing because the Orange on the body will have a good chance to harden off.
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On 23/02/2017 at 0:57 PM, shood23 said:
For me the merc has so far the most visible innovations like the big triple side pod tuning vanes and the horns just above the barge boards also the floor does look very nice and the side pods are very sculpted.
Shaun
From all the pics, alot of development work has been going on for the '17 season ....
Really like the look of McLaren too, would love to see them have a great season also.
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7 minutes ago, Mike said:
It must be annoying to have got under your skin Neil. I'll ask support if we can ask for the feature to be added
LOL
Awfully decent of you old boy ..... and if somebody could bring me a nice cup of tea every hour, on the hour that would be spiffing too!
(Tongue firmly in cheek ....).
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On 21/01/2017 at 11:18 PM, old thumper said:
Quick question. I have set my profile to ignore posts made by a certain member, is there anyway I can also ignore topics started by them?
This ......
On 23/01/2017 at 8:59 PM, Rob G said:Is there a 'Hide Thread' function?
...... and this.
Presumably there is no function available to ignore complete topics/threads by certain individual or individuals then?
Have used the 'Ignore' button but it has not had the desired effect that I had hoped for.
TA
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1 hour ago, Neil said:
I suppose the only really 'specialised' equipment I use, as such, is a vacuum chamber for the elimination of voids and air pockets in complex castings,
With the necessary vacuum pump to go with it too, I should of added ....
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On 08/02/2017 at 6:16 PM, mbdesignart said:
Re your casting of the wheels, what if any specialist kit do you use?
Mark
Ooops, sorry, only just noticed your question, didn't spot it before for some reason! I suppose the only really 'specialised' equipment I use, as such, is a vacuum chamber for the elimination of voids and air pockets in complex castings, before the resin has time to cure. Very simple shapes are not too much of a problem when casting, but the intricate and fine detail components really need something to eliminate those horrible, nasty little voids.
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2 hours ago, arni said:
Just had a thought about yr tripod,if you want to use it often why not create a top mount and use velcro as a mounting method.
It already has a separate top mount, it's this separate aluminium female threaded top mount which is bonded to the inside of the roof with the tiniest drops of superglue, just enough to hold it in place. The top mount can then easily be snapped off from the inside of the roof without damaging anything, when all spraying is finished, and with the absolute minimum of tidying up or cleaning up. The multi-position threaded male section on the tripod is threaded into the female threaded top mount.
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Been a while since I completed this build, but Gary (mungo1974) reminded me of these couple of pics on FB last night. May aswell add them here too, makes a good comparison to the real B-52 in flight, especially as it is also in formation with Vulcan XH535. Makes a neat couple of images.
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Body shell rubbed down and ready to spray. Rummaged around looking for suitable heavy gauge wire to support the body while spraying, however, this redundant generic tripod for a digital camera cropped up in the corner of my workshop, so decided to make use of it instead. The small threaded section was delicately bonded to the inside of the roof surface with minimal drops of superglue in order to attach the tripod section, that enables me to multi-position the bodyshell in a secure position when spraying it Orange. The threaded section of the tripod mount is only bonded to the inside of the roof surface in a temporary fashion because the inner roof surface will need modifying and altering with an additional roof lining, sun visors etc before final assembly.
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1 hour ago, Olivier de St Raph said:
Being at Brussels makes that I can't work on my 806. When I have 5 mn, I see again with care our reference photos. So, I found out that I forgot a vertical line of rivets. We have IMHO 9 rivets on an oblique line and 3 more ones vertical (one is hidden by the exhaust):
About these rivets, I first made them with 0,9 mm die, then 0,8, then 0,7 and I wonder if they are not still a little too big! Definitely, if I had to made them again, I would choose 0,6, and that's what I recommend to you !
After 77 (!) pages? That is one serious attention to detail .....
FFS ......
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On 10/02/2017 at 9:31 PM, Neil said:
With a bit of luck, I hope to have the bodyshell sprayed in Orange this wekend.
The best laid plans, etc ......
Was about to spray it Orange but realised at the last minute that I had forgotten about the two rectangular lights each side of the front intake that will need adding. This section on the SV slopes noticeably in side profile and also in plan view, however, the lights I need to make and fit would look totally wrong fitted on a sloped section, the twin rectangular lights are mounted squarely and perpendicular instead on the P400. So it was out with the drills, knife and files again, in order to cut out two rectangular holes each side of where the intake is on the front of the car, the twin rectangular lights can then be fitted squarely and perpendicular when the time comes.
With a bit of luck I can now get on with applying a coat of Orange to the body ...... fingers crossed!
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On 08/02/2017 at 8:28 PM, The Cameraman said:
Hi Neil,
yep I've got the book and there's some interesting stuff. I also went to the Coventry Transport Museum a few years back and saw a display showing where the filming was done through the drains!
It's one of my all time favourite films, my list being -
The Italian Job
The Battle of Britain
The Blues Brothers
The Dam Busters
Strategic Air Command
Le Mans
Grand Prix
Any of these films I will happily watch in full if they're;
a- on the telly
b- I find the DVD whilst tidying up
c- someone like you creates a thread like this!
That logic sounds pretty good to me
With a bit of luck, I hope to have the bodyshell sprayed in Orange this wekend.
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14 hours ago, The Cameraman said:
Hi Neil,
Everything was OK until I saw your link to the titles of my all time favourite film so, I just had to watch it!
Of course I then had to dig out my copy of the DVD and watch the whole film for a gazillienth time and I'm now even more tired than I was
I'll have to wait until tomorrow to view the rest of your thread, on the build of this iconic machine.
Last weekend I just had to order 'The Making Of The Italian Job' book by Mathew Field, and also the 40th Anniversary Special Edition Blu-Ray Disc of the film too. Not had time to read the book yet (on brief inspection it appears to contain some interesting stuff of the film) and, surprise-surprise, I have watched the film again all the way through (last night!) and hope to watch some of the addition material and special features on the disc in the next few days. I deliberately watched the beginning sequence with the Miura several times and luckily managed to spot one or two addition details on the car which I have not noticed before. Not surprisingly I thoroughly enjoyed watching the film again for the umpteenth time, it's the kind of film that puts a grin on your face.
Happy days!!
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A little bit of modifying before the bodyshell is sprayed Orange. The 'A' pillars are not quite right straight out of the box, the pillars should taper very slightly with the lower end of the pillars being a little wider than the top, unfortunately they are fractionally wider at the top than the bottom, opposite to how they should be. Superglued some thin strips of plastic to the forward edge of the pillars which can now be sanded to a more effective shape, with the bottom part will be wider than the tops. Also sprayed the small areas just in front of the intakes, which are just behind the door windows, in Orange which is the final body colour. Did this because it could be awkward to spray Orange into this area once the tiny intake slats are glued in place over the intake opening (the slats are the black plastic pieces in the foreground). There could be an unwanted build up of paint between the slats if I try and 'force' paint between them with the airbrush, the small slats can now just be glued in place and a light coat of paint can be sprayed around this area when the whole bodyshell is coated in Orange. For the overall Orange colour I am using a can of Halfords spray paint, decanted in order to put it through the airbrush, the colour itself is VW Brilliant Orange (a little irony there, as Lamborghini is currently owned by the VW Group of companies, through it's subsidiary Audi).
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Wouldn't mind one of these kits myself, will be watching this one with interest! Great stuff.
Love to do one of these in Volcano Orange.
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Main chassis assembly has been more or less completed, just need a bit a paint on it. Not really much point in adding lots of detail to it because it will not have removeable panels and such to view it, carburetors need adding along with air cleaners. The body shell is mostly cleaned up and finished too, the small raised lips around the rear wheel arches have been added with a few thin coats of superglue (not easy to see really) and the air intakes positioned behind the door windows have been drilled out and opened up (compare it to the pics at the beginning of this thread).
A few details and such have been added inside the cabin, including window winding handles, the dashboard has been modified too and the holes in the three 'spokes' of the steering wheel have been drilled out using 0.6mm and 0.75mm drills.
As mentioned at the start of this build, the SV car was fitted with wider rear wheels which, unfortunately, is wrong for the earlier car which I am making. The P400 rear wheels were the same width as the fronts, so basically I need an extra pair of front wheels to fit on the rear. I made a two-piece mould of one of the standard front wheels from the kit (the kit wheels have plastic hubs with rubber tyres) and initially intended to mould just two more wheels in resin, which could be fitted to the rear of the car. However, I then came to the conclusion that moulding all four wheels in resin could be a bonus because some small 'flats' can be sanded on the bottom of the wheels to represent weight acting upon them, as long as the 'flats' are done with restraint. A little caution is needed with the resin wheels because thin, narrow sections of resin have very little strength to them, so the mounting spigot/axle which is used to fit them to the kit would not really be strong enough for the job. To avoid this I inserted plastic rod (9.5mm long by 2mm diameter) into the relevant mould half before the mould is assembled which effectively embeds one end of the rod into the resin before it cures and hardens, making an ideal bond between plastic rod and resin wheel.
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Don't use pure Black for large(ish) areas, it usually doesn't look right. On the walkways and fins of an F-18 I built a while back, I painted the areas a Dark Grey instead, but then ran a pure Black wash in the panel lines using Oil Paint.
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The radiator intake and lower front lights and indicators assembly need backdating too, the lights and indicators will be changed. The SV assembly has 'rounded' ends to it, whereas the the ends on the earlier car assembly come to a kind of 'point' instead. Pic shows the recess on the front of the kit which has 'rounded' ends to it, and the curved piece of Black plastic, which fits in the recess, is the radiator/lights/indicator assembly which has been modified by sanding and profiling the ends to a 'point' in order to reshape the the recess opening. (The three small non-standard holes drilled through the recess are there to aid the removal of the radiator/lights/indicators assembly later, by pushing through them from the reverse side).
The ends of the modified radiator assembly were lightly waxed and it was then fitted into the recess on the front of the car. Milliput (Superfine White) was then pushed into the resulting gap in the ends of the recess and the modified radiator assembly, then allowed to fully harden.
After the Milliput has hardened, the radiator assembly is removed by pushing it out from the reverse face, using the three small holes drilled earlier. The changes to the ends of the recess can now be seen; from 'rounded' ends to 'pointed' as they should be on the P400. The radiator section on the Black plastic piece has been left untouched, but the small lights and indicators, which were applicable to the SV, have been removed from both ends, but the 'lip' on it's upper edge is left in place, as it should be on the P400.
The rear lights/inicators need backdating also (there's a surprise ... ) and the lights recesses were filled in with plastic (the Black bits) and sanded flush. Fortunately the kit parts from the Italeri kit will come to my aid here, as they will simply be glued in place onto the Hasegawa back end once the bodyshell has been sprayed Orange. The kit headrests were also removed (they are too small and the wrong shape) and small pieces of shaped/sanded tooling-block (the two Pale Blue pieces) were glued in their place instead.
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18 hours ago, SleeperService said:
Hi Everybody.
As the only 1/48 conversion I know of, Paragon Designs 48120, seems to be unobtanium has anyone any ideas about how this conversion could be achieved please?
Nick the Mortal After All.
15 hours ago, Troy Smith said:Hi Nick
Neil from Paragon is still about, and has the moulds, so at some point he may re-appear, or even just go through his storage.
T
I do indeed still own all of the moulds and master-patterns for the entire Paragon range, unfortunately I am reasonably sure that I do not have any of the 1/48 Lancaster Mk II conversions in amongst all of my stored items and spares etc. Sorry about that.
A 1/48 York would look quite something actually!
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1 hour ago, vrsmatt99 said:
The Miura is one of my all time favorite cars, such a beautiful looking car!
Matt
Indeed, couldn't agree more, certainly one of my favourites.
1 hour ago, Nick Belbin said:Hey - welcome back Neil. Back to modelling again then
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Just an aside - is Paragon going to be up and running again anytime soon?
Nick
I have been lurking in the background, dabbled once or twice with models but just didn't bother with posting very often. I keep thinking about starting 'Paragon' up again, have been giving it some VERY serious thought quite recently to tell the truth. If it did happen it would certainly pay me to come up with some brand new products, along with some of the original product range (certain items from the old range would no longer be relevant though, in truth). I do keep toying with the idea of setting 'Paragon' up again, time will tell I guess .....
Back to the Miura, the pic below shows the rear left wheel arch having been rubbed down to eliminate the wider bulge in the bodywork which the SV had, to achieve a profile more applicable to the earlier cars. Fortunately the kit plastic is just thick enough to rub down after reinforcing the inner surface with superglue.
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7 hours ago, injidup said:
There's an article on the Italian Job Miura in the May 2015 issue of Octane magazine. Might be of some use to you?
The car was put up for sale not that long ago too, just need that Lottery win ......
"On days like these ..." 1/24 Lamborghini Miura (The Italian Job)
in Work In Progress - Vehicles
Posted
Only a few very minor bits and pieces, nothing really worth posting just yet, hope to achieve more in the very near future with a bit of luck though.
Had very little spare time recently, other things keep getting in the way, unfortunately!