VinBizz4786_

Hello there, I've been putting the last few days to good use to bring the Mercedes up to speed, so here are the latest images; shall we? To begin with, after being cleaned with soapy water, the body receives a coat of black primer (I've been told that dark primer is preferable for silver-type finishes). While it dries, I place the carbon decals on the chassis. Note that the front decal was irretrievably destroyed and has been redone with a sheet of Tamiya carbon decals. Even if you can't see it, I also make sure that the underside of the chassis is fitted with carbon fiber, and cut out all the shapes in the Tamiya sheet. Once installed (high quality decals, but tend to crease on themselves) After a coat of semi-gloss clear, I paint a light weathering with a black/grey drybrush. Once the assembly is dry, the engine and rear suspension are glued in place, and the part can be put away to one side, to be brought out only at the very end. In the meantime, after 2 days of drying, the bodywork is finished in silver-grey. Then semi-gloss black Now I'm going to let it dry for a good week, as there will be some touch-ups to do, both on the gray and the black. That's all for now, Have a nice evening, Vincent

Thanks man, much appreciate! I'm really scared of ruining it, so I go very slowly

Hello there, I know, I know, more than a month since last time, but well, in my defense, f1 kits always require eternal sanding and re-sanding to remove as many imperfections as possible, and I had a seminar pro job to write (turned in today). That said, I haven't been idle and I've made a fair bit of progress, so let's get on with the photos. Last time, I was going to start painting the tires, and that's now done, and the good news is that the decals are extremely good quality, solid, with an almost invisible film. I added a few markings with a paintbrush, as you've always seen on F1 wheels. Then comes the painting of the floor. And the reason I take so long for the f1 kits is that I clean the part with water, let it dry for 24 hours, then after the primer, 2 days of drying, then light sanding and cleaning, then 24 hours again, and finally, after painting, 5 days of drying, so you don't want to be in a hurry. But otherwise, I'll start with the XF-78 wood plank. Having always had problems with tamiya semi-gloss black, I switched to Mr color, and after 3 thin coats, I have a smooth, semi-gloss finish that's top-notch. Otherwise we do the same with all the other parts, some of which are silver-grey, again using Mr Color. To kill time and change from sanding the bodywork, I paint the details of the steering wheel with a brush. German-style decoration for the seat (some decals were difficult to fit, but nothing insurmountable). And finally, the sanded and washed bodywork, just waiting for its primer coat. Thats'a all for tonight my friends Have a nice evening Best regards Vincent

Thanks man, i always use decals softener, and indeed, they are quite challenging

Even if you repaint your hetzer, can you tell me whitch colors did you use here with the mixing ratio please ? Thanks you

It's already looking good here ! Good job mate

Really nice build man ! Keep goin !

Really nice job mate ! I build mine last year, with the same livery bur from Dragon

Super job man ! The weathering is top !

Stunning job mate ! Congrats !

That's an amazing level of detail mate ! Congrats for your fine job

Really nice work here ! Can't wait to see it completed

Stunning man ! Congrats

Hello everyone, I know what you're thinking: "Another F1? You've already started 2! Gna gna gna! Start by finishing one", and in my defense... well, you're right, but hey, a dose of bad liver obliges, the first attempt was an old Revell kit from 1994, and when you've never done it, it can't end well, and as for the Fujimi kit, I spent 1,5 years, and at the end of my rope, (I had to disassemble parts, remove paint, in short a horror), I gave up for good. So I thought I'd go for something simple, an F1 with matt paint (simpler than gloss), with few (or very simple) masks to do, and above all, with an intelligent kit architecture (which I find lacking in Fujimi kits), and my choice fell on the first car of legend Michael Schumacher's second career, Revell's 1/24 Mercedes W01, which was really just a repainted Brawn (Mercedes thought it had made the deal of the century by buying Brawn, but had forgotten that it was underdeveloped). Unfortunately, Schumacher's comeback didn't live up to expectations, even if he did make a few splashy moves, and reminded us that he was 7x world champion (his best season of his second career being 2012 for me). Otherwise, the very rare Revell kit was acquired in Honk Kong for $80, which is quite respectable compared to Ebay prices. The kit is very beautiful and very detailed, and also contains a set of splendid decals, with carbon motifs. Although it won't be visible, I'll start with the engine, preparing the various parts. Then it's painted and weathered with various paints, washes and oils. Even though it wasn't really necessary since only the exhaust pipes will be visible, I found it fun to do, and I like the result. I've started work on the body and chassis, and there are quite a few places to be sanded, but it's still very little compared to the Fujimi kits. While the putty dries, I begin preparations for the Bridgestone tires. Thats' all for tonight Have a nice day and best regards Vincent

Really nice camouflage man! Can you tell me which colors do you have use please (the references) ?

Really nice job mate ! Keep going

Hello there, Here's my latest build, a Bf 109 G6 of the JG 300 that fought according to Wilde Sau tactics. The model is Eduard's in 1/48 scale, and has been entirely painted with Mr Hobby and Tamiya, with an oil patina. The build is here : And the pics Have a nice day everyone, best regards Vincent

Hello there, On this cold, wintry Sunday, I'd like to bring you up to date on the 109, shall we? First of all, the installation of the decals, of very average quality, which are bound to cause some silvering (which I've countered with a lot of fabric softener and which will be attenuated with matt varnish at the end). The special feature of this 109, and in my opinion the key to its charm, was the black paint on the markings to make it more discreet at night. The effect has now been reproduced with Tamiya XF-1 matt black. The weathering is entirely done with brown and white oil paints, and the same goes for the exhaust marks. Glue the final parts, apply a coat of matt varnish, and declare the model finished. Before concluding, a bit of critical self-interest: in my opinion, the main drawback of this model is the pre-shading, which is not sufficiently pronounced, making the aircraft too dark and the hues a little too dull, but the lesson will be learned for the next model. Thanks for following this story and have a nice Sunday! Vincent

Stunning job dude ! A real masterclass ! Congrats

A lovely model here! Congrats mate

Really nice job here ! Especially the winter camouflage, the faded effect is very nice

Hello there, First of all, I'd like to wish you all a happy new year in 2024, and hope that you'll be assembling lots of models and not just collecting boxes. So, I'm here with the latest progress on my 109, which I thought would be assembled more quickly, but the holidays and tutti quanti meant I wasn't in the workshop much... First, the plane was puttied, the canopy glued, etc., in short, prepared for painting. Like most of my planes, it will be displayed in flight position, on a wooden stand (not yet built, I'm using an old one for photos). Paint on with a coat of black primer This is followed by the usual marbling, done with heavily diluted XF-2 (120 drops of thinner/30 drops of paint). Even before camouflage, the yellow unit stripe is painted XF-3 and then masked. We continue with the underside of the aircraft, painted matt black XF-1 The main livery color will be RLM 75, using Gunze H69 And the second shade of RLM 74, using H68. Unfortunately, the difference between the two shades is not obvious, given their high dilution (90%). Next step will be decals, That's it guys Have a nice day and best regards Vincent

Thanks man, Eduard's kits are really great

Hallo Wie geht's denn so? In these rainy times (for my part), and in the slack period between late autumn and Christmas, I needed to motivate myself with a quick and simple project that wouldn't cost me too much money (so not a tank or a boat or an F1 car). So I thought I'd do another plane, something I hadn't done in 2 years. And my choice fell on a classic classico, the Messerschmitt Bf-109, in its G6 version. And to add a touch of originality, I thought I'd do a version of the Nachtjagd, the most original for my taste. The machine chosen was that of Gerhard Stamp, who fought in the Siege of Malta. Recipient of the Knight's Cross of the Iron Cross, he has to his credit 35,000 GRT sunk, 45,000 GRT damaged, a destroyer, the HMS Defender, and several tanks. In addition, 4 air victories, 3 by night, and 1 Lancaster bomber by day. His plane is the one he flew when he was stationed at JG300. I chose it for its rather simple camouflage, and especially for the decoration on the tail fin. For this assembly, Eduard's Wilde Sau kit will be used. In classic fashion (and because there's really no other choice), we start by assembling the cockpit. Then, the base layer, RLM 66 using Tamiya XF-63 Then highlight adding lighter grey to the Tamiya One (never use white, it's unatural) Then all the details are taken up with a brush, the weathering with washes, pigments, scratches, and that's all there is to it. Assembly of the two fuselage parts, nothing to report apart from a little sanding to come. Assembly of the wings, then we let dry That's all for today have a nice day and best regards Vincent

STUNNING! You did a really fine job mate, you can be really proud of this one! Congrats