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Lewis1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chesterfield
  • Interests
    WW2,History,Guitar,Travel,BMW R100GS,Science,Art

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  1. Oh well...Only 3 turned up...but was a good evening all the same...and made some good local contacts...We all stayed until around 11pm having drinks and model chatting...I'm glad I made the effort One of the locals asked me if the prop was really spinning...which was a good reaction...I guess if you can fool someone to that extent then you know it worked...:)
  2. The Royal Oak pub, Whitwell, Derbys - ( 71 Bakestone Moor, Whitwell, Worksop S80 4QB ) Monday 13th November - 7pm Just a meet for local modellers at the pub...I thought it might be fun for an evening and get to know if anyone near wants to swap ideas and tips, maybe show a couple of their models...Always helpful if you know someone local...or just come for a pint and chat... Anyhoo, I've cleared it with the pub and the landlord advised Monday as its the quietest evening...He'll stick the poster on the pub FB I have no idea how many folks turn up...could be just me sat in the corner on my own with a pint and a model Spitfire...the missus would really find that funny...but you don't know 'til you put it out there...right? This will probably just be a 'one off'... ...Lew... Admins...Not sure if I have done anything wrong making this post or even if it is in the right place on the forums...If I have I apologise and please move it or take it down... Regards Lew
  3. I used 'Hobbydna' company in the end....I ordered the Trumpeter 1/32 P38 Lightning clear parts sprue (K in their sprue list)...Cost was $8.00 with $14.06 shipping from China ($22.06 = £17.84)...Came after a couple weeks in well packaged box with a load bubble wrap...Good service...No issues...I'd use them again https://www.hobbydna.com/
  4. Just placed an order for canopy part for P38 - 1/32 What site are UK modelers using for Tamiya parts? Thanks for the headsup
  5. Wow...No...I hadn't considered it...That sounds like a great idea...I knew if I posted someone would have ideas I hadn't thought of...I'll check the kit and see how feasible that would be but it sounds like it may be easier than fussing about with doors in a smaller area...Brilliant idea!... Which ever way I go with it I will post pics on how I dealt with it afterwards... Good work on the Wildcat by the way... Thanks for the reply Dave... ...Lew...
  6. Hi folks... I recently bought the HK 1/48 Avro Lancaster and am curious to know if anyone that has made a bomber kit (any kit) with repositionable bomb bay doors? I really wanted to be able to position them closed or open and not hinged as I think that would be more work that isn't necessary for me. I thought about maybe mini- magnets...I am not too concerned with having the magnets seen when the doors are open and I am capable of scratch building doors that are closed that just magnet onto the underside...so I would have a set of open and a set closed and glued together Just as I am writing this my head is full of ideas...lol Thanks in advance for any help... ..Lew...
  7. Thanks for the responses and warm welcome chaps... Haha...I knew if I stuck 'Whitwell' on my intro post I'd get some feedback from neighbours...We have family in Barlborough and I drove through Cuckney yesterday for a walk round Clumber park...Good to hear from you guys... @Corsairfoxfouruncle...Hi bud....I know the US well...I've driven around the US many times...Good fun with our bros! ...Lew....
  8. Hello Folks... I'm a 56 year old who has just started back in the hobby after a 40 year hiatus...Yep, my last model was when I was 16 and in the 1970's...So I knew the hobby had come on a lot and thanks to Youtube I have amassed a lot more information and invaluable tech info now...Having a few more quid than I did when I was 16 I was able to buy a spray kit with tank and a collection of paints, glues, knives, files...all that good stuff for making the hobby more fun... My profession was as a muralist which took me abroad and working for the rich and famous so I have some arty skills already so hopefully that would come to some use in the painting area of the hobby...I am mostly interested in WW2 aviation and the odd early jet...and I like to see weathered models too...I have gone for the Revell 1/32 scale kits at the moment as they are nice and cheap and lots of scratch build and raised panel work to correct and to be fair my eyesight is a lot worse and the larger kits are better for me...Anyway...here's my first 3 attempts... ...Lew... First attempt with the new airbrush...and scratch building...This is the Revell 1/32 Mossie which I converted to the MkVI with a Tamiya canopy (which incidentally cost nearly as much as the £25 kit) and an after market resin nose...The resin took a lot of work and I had to shorten it because it was like a long snout and reshape it to the shape you see here....No MGs yet...This was kinda like a practice to get some of those techniques into my first build...So I black primed it and then mottled the light colours as I moved forward with the build...I tried some hairspray chipping and oiling and weathering techniques with oils...(I've got a lot of oils knocking about)...Came out well but knowing what I've learned now I would make a better job today... Revell Harrier 1/32...went a bit better...Added some seat belts using masking tape which seem pretty effective...and first use of the buffable metallic paint on the nozzles...I learned that I can use Pledge for sealing and I liked the semi-gloss effect so much I didn't bother using anything else so the shine you see on the Harrier and Spit is Pledge...Pledge is a great money saving tip and you can use it to dip canopies too! Revell Spit MkIIa 1/32 scale....Tried a new trick I learned with hairspray chipping...and the exhausts again with buffable metallic (Dark Iron)...Also tinted the bullet windscreen with Tamiya green/smoke which is very scuttle but effective....Unlike the Mossie which I black primed this one was tricky to get the colours I wanted so by the time I got the colours right I had completely lost all the underpainting...so I was forced to try bleaching with a tinted down version of the green and brown...That worked...I did try some smoke staining but I wasn't happy with the results so I wiped it off...Need to try again at some point... I am not too interested in getting the colours perfectly matched to original aircraft...or getting the insignia correct either...I much prefer getting a kit to look like I want it...This Spit I wanted to match to the colours of those Spits in the Battle of Britain 1969 film which may even have been wrong to the ones in 1940 but the film influenced me so much as a kid...I mean that the filming methods they used in 1969 will project a certain colour differently to the viewer of the film...but that's what I wanted to match to...Getting into colour matching is a total minefield of opinions mixed with fact and fiction...and you can't even match to a historical colour that is in a museum because paints change over time....You get the same colour from 2 different manufacturers and check them side by side, they'll be different...so even the lab techs working for Tamiya, Humbrol etc. can't agree on the right colour mix....As I say, a Minefield!...Might as well pick what you like and match it....so...all the colours you see for my models will be mixed independently by me...The dog looks on! and lastly my attempt at prop blur...I used photoshop to get the effect I wanted, got it up to scale and then printed it onto printable acetate...The spinner was cast from the kit spinner by using a plasticine mold and car filer (the stinky stuff that you have to add a hardener to)...I figured when the prop is spinning all the detail and the blade pockets you wouldn't see so a smooth blank spinner would suffice...and easier to cast...I did a bit of web search on the prop blur and none of the ones that you can buy or were done independently seemed to work very well...so I experimented myself...The whole prop is interchangeable with the static prop as is the undercarriage for display purposes...The only issue I had is that I couldn't seal or laminate it afterwards and also it's a bit floppy...I need to experiment a bit more...maybe with clear sticky backed plastic...although anything you add to it will make it more opaque so will be another compromise....so not sure yet.... I'll make a separate post about the prop blur technique if anyone shows interest or thinks its any good...I can upload the photoshop file too if anyone wants it to print their own...Just let me know... The stand was cut from some perspex I found in a skip...The sheet stuff that hold magazines in shops...I sussed out how to bend it over the gas stove...and added a small plastic block under the seat inside the model so I can screw into it to hold the model in place with some dense foam between the stand and model...so you are then only left with a small hole in the underside when you remove it... Another thing I have learned about this hobby is...well....more about my wife really....I mean...well...has anyone else found that their wife uses their hobby as a constant source of amusement and ridicule? Homer Simpson - 'All in the name of fun' ...Never stop learning Lew...
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