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thommo

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  1. In keeping with the Aussie theme of this diorama (to the UK members - we don't really drink Fosters, it's pretty awful stuff). He wants me to put a magpie in there too - as I'm always getting swooped by them on my bike in Spring - lethal bloody critter in Spring.
  2. I found Pledge One-Go in Woolies about 15yrs ago, still have at least half a bottle left. I do a lot of fly-fishing for Murray Cod so have a soft sport for them. I'm fighting & wrestling this beast to the finish line. The fit of some of the parts in this resin kit is pretty bad, esp. the tub which goes inside which has the floor & seats. Too narrow for the car body, impossible to get dead level once you put the (also poorly fitting) underbody on. But this is as good as I could do. I think the BMF perhaps should be the very last thing you put on after main assembly, as with all the handling, it has a tendency to shift. I used by Cricut to cut 0.5 and 0.25mm strips of vinyl for the window rubber (and hence to hide the glue lines). It cuts easy shapes like that absolutely perfectly. I've also used it to cut 0.15mm BMF logos to go on the hubcaps. Also had to order another 200ml of Vallejo Still Water for the creek as I did not have enough to fill it to 1.3cm depth. Have to do it in layers of about 1-3mm and each layer takes at least 24hrs to become sort of solid.
  3. I think I've taken BMF to places it's not supposed to go, but discovered if I cut it in curves using my Cricut Maker, I could make it go around corners and edges a bit better with fewer creases. Not perfect by any means, but better than trying with straight cut strips. And of course, as I've handled the body for other tasks, some of the BMF has moved (despite applying Future to help seal it down) so needs re-doing.
  4. Also, I tried the Alclad Chrome over a Tamiya Gloss Black base on some smaller parts I couldn't use BMF on and that works much better than over a flat black base.
  5. Thanks Keith SMS is like Tamiya acrylics - an acrylic lacquer. I've discovered some bottles say flat, some say gloss & some say nothing! Aggressor Blue is definitely a flat though. The white I used is actually a gloss. I ended up glossing it with Future (Pledge One Go), then polishing it with the Tamiya Polishing Compound. I think this largely removed the Future!, but still left it quite shiny. I'm after a moderate shine, not a modern car shine as apparently these older cars did not have clear coats applied over the paint. However, I'm not entirely happy with it, not to mention applying the glosses darkened the Aggressor Blue somewhat (I'll have to live with that). So might try polishing again with my 6000-12000 micromesh, then another type of polish, perhaps a car polish as you suggest? I've read Novus #2 fine scratch remover also works well. Meguiars - I actually had some but it went off. Can get it here in Oz though. The pic in the photo below shows it in exactly the colour I was after, but my phone camera has played some trickery & lightened it, as it is actually quite a bit darker than that by eye.
  6. Base colours on. The blue was a flat, the white a gloss. Then glossed with SMS gloss which did not really work, so smoothed then glossed with Future, then polished with Tamiya plastic polish.
  7. I'm a sucker for punishment! My next trick is trying to turn the matt blue body colour more glossy. Of course, if I'd been I'd have bought a gloss blue in the SMS range instead of flat aggressor blue, but the flat colour was the closest to what I was after. Have gloss coated it with SMS gloss, but not really shiny enough. Might try polishing it with something?
  8. BMF nightmares. Hoping the body trim and window trim will be far more straight forward. BMF adhesion problems abound, even just from slightly oily fingers. Cleaning with iso-propyl alcohol before application is a must, and even then it's no lay-down-misere.
  9. Here's my BMFing results so far. Not great, but ok with the naked eye. Takes ages applying and trimming numerous small pieces to these complex shapes. Hoping the relatively flat body and window trims will be much easier.
  10. OK, the learning continues. As Malc2 says above, rolling a curved blade around the area you want to trim works much, much better than dragging a straight blade across it (which has a tendency to make the BMF lift). Cleaning the area first with a little isopropyl alcohol and wiping dry before applying BMF gives better adhesion. This stuff seems very sensitive to even the slightest oil from your hands. Handling areas already BMFed while applying more is problematic as the applied stuff has a tendency to shift & lift. I hold it with a cloth now to try and avoid that. BMFing complex old vehicle bumper shapes is basically a trial & error job. Sometimes you can get one large piece to bend around complex curves ok, and get all/most of the wrinkles out with a cotton bud and toothpick. Other times is will be a complete debacle. Sometimes, it works better to apply several strips along complex curves, but then you have an overlapping line, which you really can't see with the naked eye, but you can with the Optivisor on. As one BMF video I watched stresses, you need the patience of Jobe to work with this stuff on complex shapes. On larger flat areas, it is pretty easy.
  11. Yes, that is exactly what is happening. The foil drags off in the direction of the knife blade travel. I'll try the curved blade idea, thanks for the tip. Otherwise, I'm thinking of applying a little PVA glue to the model surface before applying the foil. The Cricut cuts were quite good (using the fine blade, the Washi setting & lighter pressure). However, the tiny 3mm 'donut' of BMF I cut to go around the centre of the steering wheel came off the backing sheet during cutting. But i was still useable.
  12. I'm finding I'm having adhesion issues with the BMF around small details. It seems to go on all right & burnish down well with a toothpick, but when I started carefully trimming the excess, it lifts. I'm having to secure it with a few tiny dobs of superglue to handle these items. My research says this sometimes happens if the sheet is older. I also tried the Alclad chrome, but over SMS Camo Black (which is not very glossy). It was rubbish. Maybe it would be better over a gloss black? Anyhow, the BMF looks better, but as noted above, it can be tricky. I'm going to try to cut some of the smaller curved shapes of BMF on my Cricut to see if I can get a smoother job on things like the steering wheel. Rather than trying to bend straight strips around curves which leaves some tiny wrinkles.
  13. Some wildlife for the creek to keep the shopping trolley company. And then there are the kit windows. What a nightmare! The templates provided are way too big. Would have been a massive amount of window on the inside of the car past the edges of the opening. I tried cutting something better on my Cricut, but in the end the only way to do it was to make my own paper template with repeated fit & trim, then use that to cut a clear acetate template & again much fitting & trimming until I got a reasonable fit. The glued areas will be hidden with a thin vinyl strip ultimately to represent the window rubber seals. Here the hardest (rear window) in place. The windscreen is also done now, just the side windows to go.
  14. Yes, I put all my fish back....except the odd carp caught on fly. Cod, trout, bass, bream, yellow belly, flatties, luderick.
  15. Today, I made a fish for the creek. A Murray Cod, not that there are any in the creek I'm modeling, but it's an iconic Aussie fish. Not painted yet. Body is styrene cylinder shaped then bulked out with household epoxy. Fins are made from Pepsi can with stretched sprue stuck on. What a real Murray Cod looks like. I fly-fish for them, they have spectacular camoflage.
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