flyinghorse
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Posts posted by flyinghorse
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I used to use Wings Palatte as a reference source for aircraft markings, but since I heard its a Russian site, it may be unavailable in the US or Western Europe.
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As the question says how as a beginner do I begin making sea or water based to place ship models into make a wonderful display? Any resources and tips appreciated 😁 I will soon begin building 1/700 scale naval ships.
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Working the Nakajima Carrier Attack Bomber B6N2 "Jill" Tenzan Type 12 reinforcer in 1/72. Neat little kit, but I didn't know it didn't come with a torpedo. This one appears to be depicting a level bomber with radar antenna on the side. So what's the story behind Jill's as level bombers? I thought most if not all were used primarily as torpedo planes, though I am aware it could also carry bombs like it's predecessor the B5N Kate. What combat actions did Jill's take as a level bomber, apart from Kamikaze's near the end of World War Two? Thanks for any info provided
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What can anyone tell me about the A6M Hamp. It's a rather curious variant of the Zero, with it's distinguishable clipped wings. What was it's service length, since I am struggling to see anything on it after 1943? I understand that only a few hundred were built. Thank you.
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Is it possible to apply clear coat on models with a paintbrush?
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So there's no accuracy when I see modellers show MiGs in green markings after 1963? Thanks for any info given
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Some older model kits depicting Syrian MiG-21's show them sporting green Syrian national markings. I am confused, since I thought Syrian markings are red, black and white, not green, black, and white. One example is the Revell two set combo of a 1/48 F-16 vs MiG-21 depicts the latter with green markings during the 1982 Lebanon war, but that just makes me question the accuracy of the decals. Any answers clarifying this? Thanks all.
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16 hours ago, Stef N. said:
I just stumbled across this one. Prague 1945 apparently.
Thats amazing! Who knows what this machine went through to survive into 1945! 😮 What was its approximate camouflage scheme? Thanks for the photo
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3 hours ago, Kingsman said:
The StuG B in Denmark is undeniably Dunkelgelb base. It has had zimmerit applied some time in spring-autumn 1944, and has therefore been repainted. Dunkelgelb was the base colour by then. The tonal difference on the schurzen says there is both Rotbraun and Olivegrun patterning. Anything depot or factory refurbished after mid-43 would have been turned out in Dunkelgelb. The zimmerit suggests that this was a factory refurbishment. The likely age of this refurbishment perhaps suggests that the Ausf B was not capable of mounting the StuK 40. I would have thought that the opportunity would have been taken to improve the lethality and simplify ammunition supply if feasible, but perhaps there were no new weapons available and the StuK/KwK37 had actually been put back into production for 234s, 250s, 251s etc.
Ok thanks. I figured that would be the case. I have seen aftermarket side skirts for the Ausf g model and might use them for this project. Zimmerit application appears to frontal only but am not sure. Thanks again
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On 1/4/2023 at 3:16 PM, John Tapsell said:
In terms of organised 'early' Stug units then no they didn't last later into the war. However, in terms of older models of various vehicles (Pz III, Pz IV, Stugs etc) cobbled together from training schools and rear-ecelon units into ersatz armoured battalions then yes, there are some surprising individual 'survivors' right to the end of WWII. This Ausf B has a complete set of schurzen and zimmerit. It was photographed in Denmark just at the end of the war.
Revisiting this topic, what color would this Stug III have been and what aftermarket parts could I use to model this project? Thanks a bunch. (P.S., since I started this thread, I discovered that apparently there were a handful of short barrel Stugs during the Warsaw Uprising in August of 1944.)
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2 hours ago, spruecutter96 said:
In answer to the above question, the Milliput should be thinned down.... but not by a huge degree. If you add too much water, you'll end up with an uncontrollable mess. In the assumption we're talking about a 1/35 model here, I would add it in a 1mm thick layer. I think their are photo-etch Zimmerit application tools on the market, but can't remember who make them right now (maybe AK Interactive or MIG AMMO?).
Un-thinned Milliput is likely to clog up any device you are using very quickly.
The best advice is to work one a very small area at a time. If you try to do entire panels, there's a fair chance that the results will go "wonky". Let each small section dry fully (24 hours) before starting the next one. Having said that, joining a new section to an older one will be quite a challenge in itself. Don't worry too much if the Zimm looks a bit "home-made" - the real stuff was often slapped on to the tank in a quick-and-dirty fashion and had numerous bumps and imperfections in it.
I always thought that Zimmerit was a solution looking for a problem. Did many armies actually use magnetic mines/charges that much? Maybe the Soviets did, but I've not seen much evidence of other forces using them.
Hope this helps.
Chris.
Thanks, this helps. Its intimidating to do something new as a beginner, but zimmerit looks nice on German vehicles and I just have to try it. 😁
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11 minutes ago, UberDaveToo said:
Milliput is water soluble, Knead it per instructions, the work warm water into it to form a paste. It will harden while still wet, so you will have no more than about 20 minutes to work with it. I think it might be best to use because it doesn't attack the plastic, and you can knock chunks of it off after it's dried, just like the real thing.
IMHO, Dave
Thanks!
Should it be thinned? Standard seems thick, but I didn't know which type of Miliput to get so I stuck to the standard basic type.
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I am new to Zimmerit and have purchased Milliput standard (the red box variety) and wish to practice making Zimmerit. I practiced on some card but found it too thick to effectively utilize the Tamiya Zimmerit applicator. Is there a way to thin it? What tips can anyone provide? Thank you.
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5 hours ago, John Tapsell said:
In terms of organised 'early' Stug units then no they didn't last later into the war. However, in terms of older models of various vehicles (Pz III, Pz IV, Stugs etc) cobbled together from training schools and rear-ecelon units into ersatz armoured battalions then yes, there are some surprising individual 'survivors' right to the end of WWII. This Ausf B has a complete set of schurzen and zimmerit. It was photographed in Denmark just at the end of the war.
I have never seen this picture before. While I have heard of mine clearing units formed post war by German army personnel, the fact that this Stug was even around AFTER the war is quite stunning, especially since most older model armored vehicles were virtually non-existent by that point. Thanks
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13 hours ago, Alan R said:
I think that you have posted in the wrong part of Britmodeller.
This is the non-military section.Just ask the mods to move this post and you may well get a much better respobse.
Cheers,
Alan.
Thanks, I didnt realize my mistake, my bad 😮
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Were there any short barreled Stug self-propelled guns in use after 1943? As far as I know there were a few types of self-propelled guns in service with German army during WW2, but specifically, were short barreled Stug III's used after 1942-1943? Thanks for any info or pictures.
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I saw a video about using the water-based paste called No More Nails to make Zimmerit and was impressed with how simple it was. This product, however, is not available in the U.S. (unless it is ordered online). Is there an alternative paste that I can use to make Zimmerit? Thanks for the help.
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Were these obsolete guns used during the final couple of years during World War 2? I keep hearing that these were replaced with the stronger Pak 40 but I wasn't sure. I only know that they performed very well during the early years of the conflict, especially in Operation Barbarossa, until the T-34 came into service.
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I am impressed with the Tamiya Porsche turret King Tiger in 1/35 scale, but wasn't aware that during World War II, that only fifty of the Porsche turret King Tigers were made. I have seen many photos of them in Normandy, but did the Porsche turrets fight in the Eastern front as well?
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Thanks, I appreciate it
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Any luck?
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4 hours ago, echen said:
Could you post a scan of the decal sheet? Might give an idea as to what the tank is to represent.
Here is a site with scans as well as picture of decals
TAMIYA # 35065 (MM165) 1/35 PANZERKAMPFWAGEN V PANTHER (SD.KFZ.171) AUSF.A — Hell On Wheels - AMPS (how-amps.org) -
I am exploring German armor models and am on a budget, so I was wondering if there are any tips and techniques on brushing on late war German camouflage on tanks. Anything helps. Thanks
(I've used airbrushes before, but I would like to keep fumigation levels low and simplify. LOL)
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Sorry for a repeat question, but were these stubby, short barreled old workhorses around after 1943? I only ask because I've got a Tamiya Panzer IV Ausf. D on my workbench and wish to explore different markings for late-WW2 tanks. After seeing a few pictures of late war German armor, I couldn't believe what I saw, from Panzer III's to captured French H39's well into 1944-45. Anything relating to Panzer IV Ausf D's though? For some reason I am struggling to find specific info on this particular variant after 1943. Thanks.
B-17E's in Europe!?
in Aircraft WWII
Posted
I read somewhere that the first American heavy bomber attack on occupied Europe was conducted in August of 1942 against France by about a dozen B-17E's of the USAAF. I knew B-17E variants served with distinction in the Pacific theater, and that RAF Coastal Command used them against U-boats in the Atlantic, but for how long and how many of these E variants served in Europe with the USAAF? Its unusual since I have only seen images and read about F and G variants of the Flying Fortress in combat in the European theater. Thanks for any info.