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Goji308

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  1. Goji308
    Thanks for taking a look at my progress and my method of madness. I appreciate the compliments. I use lots of tamiya grays for various things but on this kit I mostly used 63, 66, 19, & 53. I also make my own primer and it’s different shades of gray depending on what part I’m painting. I use Stynyrez white and black. I also make my own washes with the Tamiya greys usually mixed with black XF-1. The gray I use as a base at the beginning usually look a lot different at the end than when I applied them. The hull color I started with, I’d be surprised if it looks anywhere near it did now compared to the day I airbrushed it on. Quite a few different layers on top now. Thanks Beefy. Looking back and comparing it with my last build I now feel it was worth the effort. ALDU, thanks a bunch for the kind compliments. Currently I’m adding several coats to the conning tower and am chipping it. I will post pictures tonight.
  2. Goji308
    Today I glued the details and the top splash guard in place to the upper conning tower. I also tried to wrap brass wire around the 8.8cm deck gun. The wire had some spring to it and it was not really working like I’d hoped. A few passes through a candle flame might have annealed it because it became pretty malleable afterwards. I glued the ends in place and added a light coat of primer.
  3. Goji308
    Minor steps. Painted and chipped deck. Will weather at a later time. Fittting conning tower details to deck platform. adding black on conning tower forward bulge. painted periscopes with black & greys. For whatever reason the conning tower 3D printed resin splash guard is sitting a little proud /high will address this detail shortly.
  4. Goji308
    I’m curious what the deck of the wintergarten on a VIIC was made of? It has an interesting pattern. It looks like a much finer pattern than the lower deck. I want to assume it’s wood but not sure. I would imagine it would not be slippery and most likely coated. Thanks in advance. Worked a little on the inner conning tower wood parts. I started with a red brown base and played with inks. I eventually go frustrated and painted some lighter yellow browns over previous work And then tried my oils Then I learned a great lesson that oils need a lot longer to dry than acrylics. I masked over my oils and watched my weathering stick to my painters tape. I eventually touched the wood planks and set them aside In the future I will save my oils and weathering to be done last.
  5. Goji308
    Steve, thank you for the link. I added some darker tones to the lower hull for depth and shadow. I ordered a wood deck from nautilus And it’s nicer than I expected. These decks are first rate & beautiful. Nautilus wood deck: I’m still deciding which deck to use. I know the plastic stock deck since has molded details that sit above the deck line. If I use the wood deck these are details I would want to add so I’ll have to either purchase these details (PE?) or make them. Example: hatch hinges, plates, etc. In the meantime, I will continue to advance both deck choices simultaneously and decide later which to include in the build. Revell stock deck: I primed and painted the conning tower details. I added a wash and dry brushed them. I still have to repair the one far right. Some of the hand rails and handles are quite fragile. That’s it for now…
  6. Goji308
    Extremely fascinating. Excellent work!
  7. Goji308
    Really looking good Steve. Keep up the great work.
  8. Goji308
    Thank you David & Mick for the compliments and encouragement. Just a small update: I added the beginnings of my weathering on the Uboat. I hope I did not overdue it. I believe I can dial it down if need be as I go. I kind of over applied the chipping process during that phase and dialed it back down as I moved ahead.
  9. Goji308
    Thanks guys for the recommendations and your time. The deck offered by Nautilus USA is the only one I found as well. I am undecided at this point and may attempt to make one or use the included plastic deck. I have almost completed the Eduards 8.8cm deck gun and I don’t know if I’m a fan of photo etched parts. I know I will not be rushing out to purchase another PE kit anytime soon. I am sure there is a process and a learning curve. Some of the kit went together smoothly and other parts of the kit had me wondering what am I missing here. A third hand could have been helpful in spots. Anyway, glad it’s done and almost behind me. I hope the effort was worth it. Here are a few extras, high detail printed parts I picked up from SW to upgrade some of the low detailed parts that came with my kit. I also picked up some isolators and periscopes not shown in the photo below. Both the Eduards and some of the parts from SW will need some adapting to fit into Revells stock parts in order for them to fit. this morning. This morning I filed a flange of the deck and opened up a hole diameter. Nothing too difficult. Less than a year ago one of the uboats builds here in the forums from the past inspired me to get into making uboat models. I came across Tristan’s Uboat build and was inspired, moved, & motivated. After that I started buying 1:72 uboat kits, gear, paints, brushes, an airbrush, compressor, tape, tweezers, a dremel, glue, books, etc.. and more of course. (Cringing at all my receipts). It’s been a fun journey so far and I appreciate all of you for your posts, friendships, shared information, tips, & advice, that help guys like me with two left hands.
  10. Goji308
    Steve, yes, most likely I’m responsible for the issues. I have added another layer of shadows on the hull and have been working on the plastic deck. Does anyone have any recommendation where I might find a wood deck for this kit? Thanks in advance. More pictures coming soon.
  11. Goji308
    I used a combination of paints but used mostly Tamiya Sky and German grey on the upper. I added some shadows and highlights. I bought a new replacement PE deck gun for this build. I am looking forward to it. The parts are incredibly small. Yikes. last night after using my airbrush I was in the process of cleaning and putting it back together and I noticed my trigger was screwed up. No idea how this happened. The only thing that possibly could cause this is possibly I dropped it in the floor? I ordered a replacement today Good grief!
  12. Goji308
    Short version: Primed again painted again Masked for camo rinse, repeat. added camo stripes. Long version: I find myself unsure of the story I’m trying to tell with my model. This is something I would like to have in mind as I work towards it. From the start that is. I apologize for anyone who is watching this build real-time to see me 2nd guess details & solidify my thoughts as I go. I weathered my lower hull pretty dramatically which is generally underwater. I do want to portray a heavily weathered Uboat. I decided to re-primer my model last night. I am imagining my Uboat showing more weather and stress effects above the waterline vs below. So today I have re painted, re chipped, & added the upper hull color. I think this is closer to what I had in mind. I did still add some chipping to the lower just not as much. The heaviest chipping near the anchor intake. I masked the upper hull for the camo pattern to resemble U-82. I removed the masking tape and observed the tape pulling the weak spots of my previous work on the upper hull. Note to self; next time I will account for the this and will chip less. After all the dust settled I am happy with the camo pattern. I got. After this photo was taken I reduced some of the chipping in the lower hull carefully. Im satisfied.
  13. Goji308
    Well yesterday I ate a whole plate of humble pie. My predicament started after I masked my uboat to receive 2-3 coats of worn effects. I have both AK “worn effects” & “heavy chipping”. I think I was expecting WE to behave like HC and it did not come off that easy. I started trying to agitate the surface with little effect, kept trying, and then I noticed a little area was chipping. The white primer was coming through in spots. Oof. At this point the area I was working on became sacrificial and I started trying different things. For the love of Noah please come off!! So now it just looked like…not how I wanted it to look. (Biting tongue-fighting the words back). Too cool off from my failings I decided to clean my airbrush. While putting the gun back together I could not find the spring. This has never happened before mind you. So now I am speaking the forbidden language of Ming the Merciless. I cleaned my whole workbench, crawled all over the floor with a flashlight, sifted through my trash bin like a forensic investigator. Went through my drawers and looked at the airbrush cleaning bristles and there was my missing spring. Omg!! 30 minutes later. I primed over my failed chipping panel and called it a night. Tonight when I got home from work I decided to put down a light coat of varnish in hopes to protect my rusty steel base color. I went through the process again for chipping. Sprayed 3 coats heavy chipping, let dry, paint several coats of hull color, let dry, then went through and tried getting comfortable with my chipping tools. A sponge & a toothbrush turned out to be my favorites today. anyway, thanks for looking as I crawl forward
  14. Goji308
    White primer. Added pre-shading. I was doing well then.. Bloopfff…. Airbrush threw up. I made a mistake. While adding color, I got a little to complacent with not cleaning / checking the tip. I tried spraying over it, the splat didn’t blend in at all. So I let it dry, sanded it lightly with 600 grit sandpaper, and touched it up. It’s like it never happened. When my mistake dried I actually kind of liked the look of it and it probably would have been fine. The splat might of even looked cool during the weathering phase. I made some new model working fixtures at lunch today at work and they are working well. It seemed like every time I touched the model lately I am breaking off a rudder or a part. Two steps forward, one step back. Good grief! I will add some adhesive backed foam strips to the contact points to protect the model. Anyway I’m still making progress and learning a bunch as I go.
  15. Goji308
    David, the U-82 it will be. I appreciate the recommendation. (I was leaning that way too).
  16. Goji308
    Welcome from California. I love that you build model with your son. I have two boys as well and one has taken interest in models. I am glad your here. Brian
  17. Goji308
    I assembled some of the rudders and their supports. Anything in this kit that is supposed to be round or close to round is not. I spent over an hour last night with a caliper trying to pre-fit all the periscopes etc. .010 to .020 difference in thickness on some of parts. That took a while. This weekend more sanding. I sprayed the model with a primer coat to help me see my prep work or lack there of. I still witnessed scrape marks from my scalpel on my canning so I went back through the model and sanded strategically again. Rough spots Next time I will do this operation before I assemble anything together .
  18. Goji308
    Nigel, Thank you for the additional information. Yes, that book is still on my list to get. I look forward to reading it. I look forward to learning more about the specifics. I have several books on my night stand I have to read first.
  19. Goji308
    The rest of the Uboat has been scraped, oil canned, and I added texture to the steel plates. I reduced the rivets height by a light sand. I found a few more parts that needed filling & sanding. The propeller shafts are completely out of round. I sanded them quite aggressively with a file and sanded them smooth so they fit where they are intended to go. I might replace the shafts. The two hull pieces are glued together. A few spots had to be glued again separately. I had to add glue and clamps to the far edges of the uboat as they were lightly warped. There was too much pressure to do it all in one shot. I have airbrushed the interior of the hull with black primer. The rear vertical rudder holes & Base mounting holes have been located and drilled. *** I have been reading another uboat book called The odyssey of a Uboat commander by Erich Topp. Fascinating read so far. The author does mention the uboat deck coating by code name, “Alberich”. The coating is approximately 4mm thick, applied to the deck and helps in reflecting radar & sonar pulses.
  20. Goji308
    Welcome Ray! Sounds like you have a great relationship with the local Hobby Store. I’m into large scale Uboats and spend most of my time in the water section of the forums. Glad your here. Brian, California
  21. Goji308
    Love this build. Great job on all of the details displayed above.
  22. Goji308
    Absolutely beautiful. Job well done.
  23. Goji308
    Great job all around Jon! Keep up the great work.
  24. Goji308
    Alan, ha thank you. You are too kind and I hope your right. This model is coming along a little faster than the last. Funny how that works. I sanded everything I used filler on, and added another round of filler. That should do it. I started removing the material in the slots that run along the hull body. You can see in this picture where I removed the material entirely (left side) and where I thinned the slots just before breaking through the plastic. Light or sunlight help for accuracy when plotting your plastic removal course. My last Uboat (IXC) I had planned/ debated on putting a few bands of medium grey for camouflage on the upper hull but did not execute that step. For this VIIC build I will add the camouflage bands to the upper hull for sure. I am not entirely sure how many stripes i will put down as of yet. (To be determined) I am leaning towards the U-82 or the U-253. Here I have started the light oil canning to the hull by scratching it carefully with a scalpel and then coming back through with various sanding.
  25. Goji308
    Your Uboat is shaping up. Keep up the good work. I am looking forward to more of your progress.
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