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Everything posted by Coppercat

  1. It is not possible to turn the front wheels. Theoretically all wheels could rotate (roll), but I blocked them so that the model would not "run away" from the stand. I will take photos with the lights on soon (I haven't selected the resistors yet). I emphasize that the lighting is not included in the MFH set.
  2. My last completed model. This is my first MFH model. I am impressed by the quality of the parts and the mapping of details. I added a lot of my own ideas (for example, all lights are on (LED) and controlled from the stand). I am happy to answer any question for details.
  3. Slowly to the final of the project:
  4. The stand: Photos of the current state of the model. Workshop photos, so dust, fingerprints, etc. There is still a lot of work left, but something is already visible. to be continued
  5. I pasted the previously made side window frames. Frames made from scratch. The idea was that the window on the driver's side was tilted and closed on the passenger's side. In the F250GTO, the windows were sliding, not down. I have made appropriate handles to "maneuver" the shafts. General photos, because the close-ups show traces of "fight" when fitting the frames to the body (oh, it happened ......) The details will show how I can clean the glass at least a little.
  6. I installed all the lights. There was a lot of it: - turn signals, - dipped beam, - position lights, - cabin lighting, - clocks backlight (done earlier). I glued in all the lampshades of all kinds. I made all the hinges of the moving parts: - doors (only one side in the photos below), - boot / spare wheel cover, - engine hood, - radiator cap. I also worked on details such as: - nets to mask various holes in the car body, - engine hood closing fittings, - matching the glazing, - air intake on the rear window, - a million other things that I have already installed or prepared for installation. and that's it ...
  7. I did a caste fitting to the chassis. I tried on all moving parts (bonnet, hatch, radiator cap, doors). I found out that you can try to put it together, but it won't be easy. Photos from the fittings (all on the word of honor or Patafix)
  8. Preliminary work on the frames of the headlights. After cutting and processing the plates, I caressed them with a stick and an eraser. It is bent from the flat bezel, but it matches the curvature of the reflector. Now I can drill holes for mounting rivets and then paint the frames (Molotow). I'm getting the taillights ready. They are weirdly large and I don't know if they will fit I wanted to create frames imitating frames and seals, but I must forget about it. I "bound" the pins for the production of hinges. There will be some. Body elements got the first base color layer. Gravity GC-107 Ferrari Rosso Corsa. I riveted the air intake tunnel on the hood. Master Club rivets 0.4 / 0.6 mm. to be continued ......
  9. I did not know how to modify the tips of the air intakes (under the hood). I found a two-color (aluminum) foil. It is silver on one side and gold on the other side. It has a nice delicate texture. I thought: why not? And it turned out like this:
  10. Regarding details: Keys in the ignition switch
  11. Thank you very much for your positive comments Little progress: - I put the brake hoses, - I installed rear shock absorbers, - I pasted the sides of the engine compartment.
  12. Connected HV wires with ignition coils. The throttle position control cable. Connected (working - without glue) the last fuel line (the yellow one towards the cabin). Arranged power cables of the lighting of the clocks on the dashboard. Custom seat belts, center tunnel tachometer, handbrake lever etc. Clocks lighting test: Shock absorbers are made:
  13. Trying on the frame to the body. I have mixed feelings, but judge for yourself. By the way, I realized how much more picking is ahead of me? This crossbar is high ... on my own request.
  14. The body got a primer for the first time. Of course, a million things came out - for improvement (probably it won't end at one time). A glance at the front suspension: I arranged the shelf behind the seats. Company leather suitcase. Bulkhead wall with accessories. I also made additional reservoirs and brake cylinders. Ignition coils ready for connection to distributors. Engine and fuel tank: To be continued...
  15. I made seat frames. And fixing to the floor. I'm preparing the last trinkets for the engine. The Fujimi starter was not foreseen at all. It needed DIY to refine. Shock absorbers, of course, to be modified (the photo shows the materials needed for the modification). Ignition coils, jack and one of the air intakes filled on the bottom. I put the battery in and checked if it fits in the engine compartment. Fitting with seats, fire extinguisher and jack. Finally, a look at the dashboard (without the clocks for now).
  16. The work is multi-track. I dig around the frame and suspension, a little bit on the engine, and work out the details.
  17. Refinement of details. Tedious work. It will be a pleasure putting it together. Front suspension. Hubs and Brakes: Main springs. What Fujimi gave me did not suit me very well, so I redoed it my way: Connection of the radiator to the engine: Seats and dashboard. I cut out the seat mounts and made wire frames. The board is being transformed. In the floor of the cabin, I plugged the slots of the seat mounting. The unsightly stripes on the rear part of the interior are also gone. To be continued....
  18. Work on the engine. Taken: - valve covers, - oil filter, - V-belt pulleys, - carburetor trumpets, - damper return springs. Still everything "flat" without wasch etc. Trying on the frame. And to the body. When I try to close the mask - a surprise The engine is too high. I have to leave him somehow. And it was supposed to be so beautiful and easy ..... To be continued.....
  19. These wheels are available in many places. For example at the manufacturer (Lawerence Young): http://ka-models.co.kr/?product=250-wire-wheel-for-revell I recently bought some pretty good Hobby Design wheels: Inside I found a few PE plates, aluminum rims, aluminum axles, resin adapters for Fujimi and metal valves. Of course, also instructions on how to put it together. The set is so unusual that the "spokes" are interlaced. It has a pretty cool effect. They are not as flat as all I have seen so far. I compared these wheels with the products of KA-Models (mounted on the F250GTO model) and Fujimi Borrani (a separate set for a relatively large amount of money). It turned out like this:
  20. Of course That's why I chose......... Fujimi
  21. Frame shape. Any other. Unfortunately, I cannot say which frame is closest to the original one. I chose the Fujimi frame for further work, but only because I like it the most I compared the set rims. The ones from the Gunze set are the best. They have the disadvantage that their diameter is smaller than that of the Revell or the Fujimi. Accordingly, the tires would also have to be Gunze. And here is the problem, because the quality of these tires is, to put it mildly, poor. Revell's tires are more suited to an off-roader than to a sports car. The only possible option is Fujimi tires. The rims will be metal by KA-Models. The spokes are photo-etched, but so delicate you can't see they're flat. The manufacturer makes them in versions for the following models: Fujimi, Revell and Italeri. This is a Revell version, so it will be necessary to add a suitable hub. I will use one Gunze rim with a Revell tire for a spare wheel. Initially, I made wheels with lids with a yellow Ferrari logo: However, after comparing with the photos of the original (I think), I changed the caps to the following: The caste has been cut out a bit (this is not the end of cutting I covered the cut elements with 0.2 mm polystyrene strips. To be continued....
  22. My workshop will be on the Ferrari 250 GTO. I am not sure which model I will choose yet: It would seem that the models of one car produced by different manufacturers will be similar to each other. It turns out that not really. I did a small comparison of the appearance of the F250GTO bodies made by Fujimi, Revell and Gunze. Below are some photos from this comparison: I leave the decision for later .....
  23. For Marco F. Engine model of the cult car Ferrari 250 GTO. Model based on the old Hobby Design resin kit. All equipment and stand made from scratch.
  24. Thanks Marco F. for the kind words. I am preparing a workshop model for my "ponies" (F250TR and F250GTO). There will certainly be a battery and a fuel canister I made a similar engine for the F250GTO. If you are interested, I can post more photos in a separate thread
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