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Everything posted by munnst

  1. Been having a bit of `fun` with the paint colours for the two film `Einkels`. First attempts at mixing my own colours to match didn't end well. This is after sanding back. Looks a bit Condor Legion to me? Then I tried mission model RLM 70,71. Colours more suited to the Blitz than the BoB? The tape also reacted with the paint? Oh well, back with the wet n dry again. Mission model paints sort of wash off which is a bit weird? I kind of like the effect though. Now I'm trying Humbrol 116. It's a lot greener in real life. Onward and upwards....
  2. At least 48 hours if not longer. I'm a slow model maker.
  3. Any ideas what's causing this and suggestions on better colours? Two questions. Why is this happening and why are the colours so wrong for a Battle of Britain daylight Heinkel? The kit is Airfix new tool He111P. Paint is Mission Models RLM 70 and 71. First off the colours seem wrong. It's almost a night bomber? Shouldn't RLM 70 be green? Second question why are my Tamiya masks staining the paint? The masks are not lifting the paint or leaving any residue. It's as if the glue on the mask is reacting with the paint and staining it where it touches? What make, colours of paint would you use and should I varnish the base colour to act as a barrier? Thanks.
  4. I also visited Uxbridge to see the Battle of Britain Bunker. My `Einkels` may have been depicted in this `Sep 15th` raid? "Yes I confirm Stanmore, no IFF"
  5. Trying to work out the actual colours for the film `Einkels` is not easy as there seems to be little actual photographic evidence of the upper surfaces. Looking at the film doesn't help much either. The models seem to be in a two tone grey colour while the film is more a olive green, dark green colour? So I decided to make my own colours using film stills which seem good to my eyes. Enamel Humbrol and Revell using a random selection of grey, green and yellow. I like it. Others may not. Unless someone can come up with the actual colour mix I'm happy with it.
  6. Yes they used twin seater Buchons painted as Spitfires for filming and single seaters for filling in. I guess the Buchon looked more like a Hurricane than a Spitfire? You can also see the remnants of Spanish markings on some of the Einkels and one still has it's underslung target winch. I've also seen orange life jackets stowed in the nose of one but not sure if that made it on screen?
  7. That's the one. The blue I am told is incorrect. It should be dull and matt but I like it.
  8. This is my cap fully inserted as far as possible? Worth an email to Iwata? The brush is brand new.
  9. I've been busy in the garden. No bomb craters but someone did give me the bloody shovel! Finally got some paint on the Einkels and I don't think they look too bad considering (my lack of skill). I do like these new Tamiya Lacquers and Mr Color Aqueous Paints (after failing yet again to apply Vallejo Metal) . They lay down rather nicely. Lacquer thinned with levelling thinner and some thinner and retarder (Daler and Rowney) added to the acrylic. I find it prevents clogging to retard a little. I sprayed several coats of Mr Color Gloss and then a coat of Humbrol Gloss (I do like Humbrol gloss). I rather like her in this striking Silver Blue and feel the Merlins look okay to my wonky eyes. Makes a striking comparison to the German Heinkel.
  10. Another quick question. The lid on my eclipse is a poor fit and was poor from new. Is that a fault or are they all like that? It fits but never sits correctly? Always wonky? Thanks for all the replies. 10 years with an airbrush and still learning.
  11. Bingo. Penny two dropping. Never knew you could adjust the spring tension. Always assumed it was screwed fully in always. Thanks.
  12. Bingo. The sound of penny dropping. "The hole in the cover is to allow you to manually pull the needle fully back by tugging on the knurled knob." Never thought to do that but never experienced the problem either. I use a retarder when using acrylics. Useful to know. Thank you.
  13. Thanks for all the replies. I nabbed a copy of the book oh and I'm building in 1/72.
  14. Ahh yes, you are correct. Closer inspection of this model taken today shows the faired intakes and single exhaust.
  15. Just visited the Mossie aircraft museum in Earls Colney and fancy building a model of the prototype. Are there any good books specifically on the prototype that include the differences between this and the production aircraft?
  16. The Iwata Eclipse has a cut out on the rear section and a knurled knob. My revolution has the same knob. It's for stripping down and cleaning. It locks the needle in place. But the Eclipse has a cut out so you can get to the knob without taking the rear section off. What's the point? I still have to take the rear section off anyway to clean and remove the needle. Is the cut out just a way to make parts common to more advanced airbrushes? Or am I missing something here? It's not mentioned in the instructions? My H&S has a fine adjustment knob so the cut-out makes sense. But not the Iwata,
  17. Very nice article. Thanks Steve. That helps a lot.
  18. Does anyone have pictures of the process of marking with a pen and sanding? It's kind of hard to visualise what the OP is talking about. I am about to have a crack at a particularly rare Rareplanes vacform and don't want to naff it up.
  19. Sorry to resurrect an old thread but could someone explain the difference between Mr Hobby and Mr Color paints please? Is it just branding, marketing?
  20. These colours look good. Thanks. Would these colours be the same for the Heinkels? I'm trying to match as closely the film aircraft but the pictures seems to show an olive colour and dark green?
  21. What colours did you use here?
  22. What colours for this aircraft please? This actual model not what it should be if this is indeed inaccurate? (Ref BOB-Heinkel-miniature-1.jpg (1200×800) (thepropgallery.com))
  23. Thanks for the replies. I'll reply to everyone in one go. Gotcha with the black base however for the model I'm painting I want a duller finish so while I agree black is best for high shine I'm just looking for smooth. I'll try a lower pressure however as someone stated using 15psi maybe that's not it. But I'll try 10 and lower to see what happens. Now nozzle is an interesting one. I'm using an Iwata Revolution with a .5 mm nozzle. It's an old brush so I suspect the nozzle is probably more like .6 now with wear. This brush does put down a nice cover of paint. Maybe too much paint? It's great for Enamels and Lacquers. I'll try using my H&S with the finer nozzle to see what happens. Thank you.
  24. I bought a set of Vellejo Metal Color Acrylic paints and have had nothing but grief trying to use them. Every time is a failure. I put the early failures down to me. Surface not dry. Not prepped. Not clean. Wrong paint, whatever. But my latest failure leads me to believe I'm just not getting this paint at all? Latest fail. Model perfectly washed and wet n dried with 3000 grit paper. Two light coats of Vallejo Grey Primer. Went down lovely. Again sanded back and washed. Perfectly dry. Perfectly clean. Tried spraying Vellejo Metal Color Gloss Aluminium shooken (shaked?) by hand and stirred with a cyclone mixer. I didn't thin as this paint is air brush paint so assume good out of the bottle (?). Sprayed at 20 psi. Just pooled and ran on the model. Cleaned off. Dialled back to 15 psi. Again pooled and ran. Tried less paint. Greater distance. Same. In the end abandoned and sprayed with Tamiya Lacquer thinned with self levelling thinner. Went on perfectly. So what am I doing wrong? The Vallejo again is at the back of the paint drawer.
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