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aharris57

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About aharris57

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  1. Thanks @theplasticsurgeon. Windscreen first then, excellent. You have Klear (Pledge Revive it / Pledge Multi-Surface Wax) available in the UK. A fair bit of googling suggested nothing similar is on sale down here in Australia - had hoped to go into my local supermarket and pick it off the shelf, but no such luck. Australians: what do you gyus use for canopy dipping now? Cheers.
  2. Also, which order to work in? Windscreen to canopy then the whole lot to the fuse in one go, or windscreen first to fuse, canopy next, or canopy first then windscreen? So much to think about!
  3. Firstly thanks to everyone who replied to my Hunter colour scheme worries on the cold war forum. I now have a new source of anxiety. I've reached canopy and windscreen attachment time and come to a halt as I'm scared stiff of screwing up the glueing process. I have ready many threads on PVA, Clearfix, UV resins. The chap at the model shop reckons I should just stick with my liquid polystyrene cement and go carefully to get the best bond. I need a good join all round as I'm going for a closed canopy and I'll be airbrushing the whole lot when masked up. So, should I just throw c
  4. Nice looking Meteor @Julien. That's about the level of shine I want to end up with. Cheers.
  5. @Giorgio N I do indeed have a new airbrush and compressor. Just need to practice. I think I had the paint too thick first time around. I was really thinking about the camo colours on the top being matt and needing to apply semi-gloss to decal there. Of course the Gunze silver will be nice and glossy so you're right, I should decal straight onto that. Thanks again!
  6. Thanks @Giorgio N! I can only dream of creating a finish as perfect as you've got on that Vampire. It's lovely. I do have semi-gloss and matt Mr Color varnishes so I'll try to follow your recommendations. My guess is that my silver will be way too bright, so I'll give it semi-gloss, then decal, then either spray another semi-gloss or matt coat depending on how things appear. It looks like it will be a matter of experimentation. Also I hadn't spotted that pic of XF515 was a modern restoration. I just hope they got it right. Cheers, Andy.
  7. Thanks Blabber Mouth. I found this Hunter pic which seems to show HSS combines with leading edge wrap around plus the Airfix instructions show it (and Italeri ones too, not that I trust those much!). I'll go with that - really more interested in getting some practice in than 100% accuracy, but I'm trying to get things right all the same. So far I have spent far longer on the internet than painting plastic. I guess research is all part of the fun . Andy
  8. Cheers Steve and Andre! Halfords rattle can is not an option for me as I'm in Oz. I'm using Mr Color lacquers, just quoting the Humbrol numbers because people are likely to be familiar with them. I'll have to work out what best represents High Speed Silver in the Mr Colour range, but if Mr Color = Gunze then maybe I'm OK with my silver. Andy
  9. Hi. Newbie here, so my apologies in advance if this has been asked a thousand times before. I'm just setting off on my first proper build and I've chosen the Italeri (Academy re-box?) Hunter F6 for the job. It comes with a pretty good decal sheet and I've decided to go for the 1959 No. 56 squadron scheme, straight out of the box. Looking at the painting instructions it calls for Flat Light Grey undersides and I have a pot of light aircraft grey for that (Mr Color lacquer). The trouble is when I compare it to colour profiles in my reference book, Tim McLelland's "Hawker Hunter",
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