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Everything posted by Kiertomäntä

  1. You may be closer than you think. It's gravity colors' 2-part colour and I'm still not sure how it should have been applied. I didn't find much in way of instructions as how many layers, what thickness etc. And the final shade darkened slightly after clear coating. Studio setting also looks quite a bit different than in natural sunlight for example. It's also just as annoying to take photos, it seems to change colour depending of light, temperature of said light and angle. Great colour nevertheless but if goal is to get exact shade of Mazda's soul red I'd choose someone else's paint.
  2. This is finished: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/383-ready-for-inspection-vehicles/
  3. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235107780-mazda-rx-7-fd/ WIP-link above, contains all the (few) pictures from interior, engine assembly etc. This was finished about two weeks ago and last week I managed to get proper pictures. For the final assembly there is not much to say actually, most of the time was just waiting a glue to dry before attaching next part and generally fiddling with few details here and there. Couple of aftermarket pieces added or original parts replaced, wipers for example. Original idea was to build factory-original version but it was bit carried away during the build. Mainly due to this reason I decided to change the wheels and to also lower the car as much as the wheel wells let me. In general I personally don't like lowered cars but I think something like this is how they usually are in real life. I mean there's not much completely original RX-7's in real life anymore I guess.
  4. Peugeot 307 WRC also has one. Apparently for "more realistic weighted feel"... Never understood what's the point in static model. Must not have been much of a hit because it hasn't cought on.
  5. Oh boy! This winged monster has always been my favourite from Group B era. The soundtrack of the 5-pot just below the rev limiter was (and is) among the best noises of any racing engine I think. Once had a pleasure to see Hannu while he was still alive, this definately brings in some memories. Model looks very neat, sad that those tobacco decals have to be censored even in models. More pictures please if you can! Also I would like to see your photo booth for these or do you use much editing to get these dark studio-type pictures?
  6. If you want a quick, relatively simple kit to put together I really, really, can't recommend this for the aforementioned reason. I had one also and very quickly realised that I'd never build it. Engine needs to be painted and built first before putting it inside the frame but for some reason they decided to mold fuel tank and rear cowlings as part of the frame which means there will be at least a line between the parts when put together. And this is if you can mask everything off well enough to paint the frame and tank/cowling after putting the engine in. Of course it can all be separated and painted/assembled individually but this will very likely require at least some scratchbuilding to make it clean. Sad to say as it looked like somewhat well detailed so it probably would build into a nice bike if it had been given a little more thought when engineering it. Or still would build into a nice one if treated with enough skill and time.
  7. If somewhere, in the interior this kit shows its age. Lack of parts and details is pretty obvious when assembling it. The details that are there are quite well done but overall this really isn't up to bar by todays standards. There are no armrest or doorhandles in the door cards for example. Despite this I tried to detail existing parts as much as possible. Majority of the real RX-7:s came with black leather/plastic interior so I decided to go with this option also. Painted with few different shades of black despite none of will be visible when ready. Pedals are PE parts eventhough those are visible to absolutely nowhere. Seatbelts and buckles are from my own stash. Floor and parcel shelf are covered with grey flocking.
  8. Engine was painted and assembled relatively quickly for me I think. Bit less than two weeks or so. Although this being "old" Tamiya from 90's meaning there wasn't so many parts to begin with. Some details had to be added due to this very reason. All the wiring and piping is sourced from my own stash as this kit didn't come with any eventhough real RX-7's engine bay is full with vacuum hoses and wires. Brake servo pipes are made from 0,1mm brass tube and their connectors from 0,2mm and 0,4mm aluminium tubes. Alternator is so visible with wankel engine it had to be replaced as the original "alternator" looked more like tennis ball than anything else. I mean I didn't even realise what I was looking at when I was preparing the parts for painting. I decided to put CF on the front splitter as bare semigloss black didn't look very attractive. I'm not happy how it turned out but I was defeated by the decal itself. In the end I just had to admit that the surface is too complex to be covered with decal evenly. Luckily most of the creases will be covered by the main body. On left is the original alternator provided by Tamiya. "Log" they are leaning up against is toothpick.
  9. Underbody is pretty much completed also, few details will come after the engine is complete. I decided to try some drybrushing into this and as much as I love completely spotless models I must admit that it looks more realistic with this. Painted with four or five different alclad metals and few tamiya colours, mainly through airbrush.
  10. After #6000 sandpaper I used Meguiar's ultimate compound as coarse polishing compound to remove biggest scratches. After that final polishing was made with Tamiya's finish compound to bring the shine back. Depending what you require from the final result, you can achieve good result with only Meguiar's compound but as it is intended for 1:1 cars if you look close enough there are some microscratches left behind. Only to remove these I used Tamiya's compound.
  11. Could you open up a bit more what you mean? I have posted here also pretty much every build from recent years that I've made. I'm not entirely sure anymore, I don't have the package and there isn't any logo or text in the model itself but I'm 90% sure it was IXO who made this one.
  12. Apparently this is my first WIP on this forum (yay?). After the DTM BMW finished I realised that my last civilian road car I have made was more than 5 years ago. It was time fix this so I grabbed Tamiya's RX-7 that has been sitting in the shelf for a "few" years. It was supposed to be original factory-like but I have never been much of a fan of the original rims so I might change them. Even though the paint is Mazda's Soul red you never could get it into RX-7 from the factory so I guess this already is a mild street tune anyway. As said earlier the paint is Gravity colour's two-part Mazda Soul red with 2K clear. Polished with #4000 & #6000 sand papers and machine polished after. Wax comes before the final assembly. Before polishing... ...and after. Polishing started with #4000 paper only to smoothen out all the dust and other uneven bits. After this the whole bonnet was sanded with #6000 paper to get rid of the orange peel. After the sandpaper it was machine polished to bring the glossiness back. Extremely hard colour to take photos, feels like the shade differs depending of the light, angle, shades, position of the moon and last weeks weather forecast.
  13. A supposedly "quick" project that took a bit more than half a year to complete. Fourth try was the finishing run. Made from 1:43 scale die-cast. Mostly just re-painting everything, few added details mainly on the interior. Painted with Tamiya X- and LP-series paints and lacquered with Zero 2K which is machine polished afterwards.
  14. Cab Coatings Finland's fishing lure perch green. Same green I used in Ducati 888.
  15. After the 155 Alfa I wanted the project to also be DTM racer so I took Beemax's fairly new M3 with S27's additional decals to the building table. Being a modern kit, fitment is spot on albeit a bit snug in certain places where painted parts didn't fit their correct places anymore. Curbside kit so no engine but still separate bonnet for some reason. Nothing major done above normal building: as said before decals are from S27's set, seatbelts are made from fabric tape with scale production's seat buckles and painted with tamiya, alclad and zero colours.
  16. Since Gamblor just posted his version of R1M with original R1 livery I thought I could post the original. Well, when I say original, the colour scheme is original '99 livery but the gloss red I replaced with transparent red-over gold. Otherwise this is built straight out of box. It's tamiya's kit from back when the actual bike itself was new so a bit older but still the build quality is there as in "shake the box and you have a model". No fitment problems or anything other but the smallest details are not up to par by today's standards. This was my first more highly detailed bikes from few years back. 2017 if I recall correctly. The road has definately been long since...
  17. ^ Did you have to bring this up now and not before I made this? What do you think I do now? As if this hobby isn't already getting way out of hand now I have to buy one of those upgrade sets and find yet another 888 SBK... Well, I guess I'm off to look for some inspiration.
  18. Tamiya's nearly three decades old kit of Alfa's 155 was my latest via dolorosa. This kit is definately not on par with todays moldings but it's not disastrous either. However I dug my own grave when I decided to use Studio27's additional decals for this. The kit itself only suffered from little fitment issues but those decals were all over the place. Some numbering on the sheet didn't match those on the instructions, decals were wrong size and instructed to put into wrong places etc. Ontop of that they were quite thick and quite brittle, requiring lot of heat and softener to go around those wheel arches for example. And I still couldn't do it with all of them. Painted with tamiya's X- and LP-series paints, lacquered with Zero 2K Diamond and machine polished. All of the CF/kevlar decals inside are made from corresponding sheets with self made templates. Added some extra "racing" pieces to inside such as fire extinguisher, wiring, electronic boxes etc. Driver's harnesses are from S27's bulk set with sparco decals. 155's party piece was its 13000rpm revving 2,5 litre Busso-V6. If you have never heard it, I highly suggest listening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFJQGWz9AmM
  19. So you still won't admit that (pretty much) the rest of the world drives on the correct side of the road...? Whatever, I love the Mk III Supra, it looks prettier into my eye than Mk IV. A friend from school had metallic green Mk III Supra with 1JZ-GTE and manual tuned to about 450hp/700Nm so I may be somewhat biased... All in all I have to admit that rims are what define the car, in this case those BBS rims make the whole appearance with the colour. No need for lowering or body kits, just unforgiving appearance.
  20. As a Finn, I'd rather thought I'd see Italeri's "new" Volvo 760 under this load... Without a dip in rear springs of course. How you did the windshield crack? With paint or really cracking the plastic somehow or completely replacing the windshield with acetate or something?
  21. For one that 1000 hours which includes the engine, span out from 2016 till the very end of 2020. Secondly this wasn't only kit I built during those years. I'll be honest sometimes this did require forcing myself to build just to get forward. When I didn't feel like I would achieve the level I required from this I put it away and built something else. But still, looking back this took "a bit" longer than it should have taken. What I meant by saying this should have been better is compared to those hours used. A normal model for me usually takes about 100 hours and I'd say those achieve 80% of the detail this has. So putting 500 hours more should be more visible than it actually is.
  22. This was "commissioned" work from a friend. He is extremely passionate about McLaren F1 and didn't yet have a model of F1 that won the inaugural Helsinki thunder 3h endurance race so he turned for me. We decided that Aoshima's model for long tail test version was the best place to start modifications. I bought the kit, two carbon fibre decal sets and three different race decal sets from which I combined chassis #21R that won in Helsinki. Inner monocoque consists about 50 parts and 120 carbon fibre decals, outside about the in parts but a lot more decals. As the Helsinki race was a relatively short and tight track, it had a unique aero pack that I had to made from scratch. This includes front canards, rear wing, rear aero diffuser and such. If the history behind McLaren F1 or GT1 racing is in your interests I highly suggest you check out Sami Aaltonen's (the man who ordered this build) webpage with pictures from the actual chassis #21R car as it is today and history behind it: https://samiaal.kuvat.fi/kuvat/1995-1997+McLaren+F1+GTR/MCLAREN+F1+GTR+-+ENGLISH/1997+MCLAREN+F1+GTR+LONGTAIL/CHASSIS+21R/ The whole project for this chassis took about 600...700 hours if all the research and reference digging is included and it took about three years to complete. BMW S70/2 engine from this model kit was built separately before this car and combined it has taken about 1000 hours to finish. When I say it out aloud I think the quality isn't anywhere near where it should be but as long as the customer is happy, I'm happy. And if any questions arise, feel free to post them, I'll answer as well as I can.
  23. Brake hoses are braided steel wires from top studio, lower end sleeve is 1,5 mm² cord end sleeve cut to 2mm length. Banjo bolt between the hose and caliper is made from different sized metal tubes.
  24. Paint is actually Repsol blue, ZP-1035 as that was the only blue I had left at the time. Because the Rothmans blue isn't one specific shade I didn't thought this as a big crime. It has a slight metallic effect which was also one reason I picked this.
  25. I thought I'd already posted this here but apparently no. Well never too late I guess. Story behind this started last autumn when I was heating up my sauna and rolled a log of birchwood in my hands and wondered what this could be turned into. I had done some cutlery when I was young so this wasn't exactly new thing but I wanted to try it out. 15 minutes later I found myself with axe in my hand trying to make the log little bit easier to work with. After axe I used a sanding machine to make it relatively close to final shape. After that I used some P400 grit sanding paper and sanded the final shape. Oars were made from splinters left after the axe so that it'd be homogenous with the main "hull". Hull was treated with mahogany colour oil and covered with about a dozen layers of varnish. Oars are just varnished over. Everything else on top is evergreen plastics, steel wires etc. scratch built. This was the beginning before the axe. Rough shaping before final sanding with hand. And the shape after about 30 minutes of sand machining. Final result. Took maybe 10 hours within 2 weeks. Most of the time was just waiting the varnish layers to dry.
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