modelbautony

Totally agree with you David although I think 'Sir Nick' might be a little over the top even though it has a ring to it. It's refreshing to find other modellers on here who (and I hope no one takes this as insulting) are as dedicated to the truth in detail as I have become and strive for, after all, it's where the devil is!

A little something mr Birkin would have been proud of...

I'm with you Malc on all those. Mind you, I still think the main obstacle with both the Lotus variants is to fix the DFV engine block and gearbox.

I've been test driving/building these wheels for Nick since they were delivered yesterday at 2pm. At one point I had to message Nick with my reaction, I'd previously told him I was enjoying the whole process: "I can't see how any modeller with even a modicum of interest in improving or making more authentic the basic model wouldn't thoroughly enjoy this. I'm not saying it's easy but neither is it beyond anyone with even moderate skill." The sense of achievement with the build of these wheels is tremendous. The professional and authentic look of the finished pieces will be a joy. Thanks Nick for giving me the opportunity to test the build for you.

Well "every action..." as they say. Dry fitting the engine I find that it doesn't fit. Is that as a consequence of the warped mid section that I've replaced. Equally I have to say that Fujimi certainly know how to mould fine detail, just look at this end of engine block which goes up against the bulkhead and impossible to see. Some other model producers would just make do with a blank. It's out by a millimetre or so as you can see by the rear locating holes. If this isn't adjusted it will have knock on consequences for parts of the body work which attach to the outward support arms. It just needs a little shaving off the hidden engine block end so the bottom of this angled strut sits in the hole.

Hello Nick (another Nick) . I'm so sorry, you must think me very rude or ignorant. I have only just seen your response. Thank you very much, that's very informative, if actually way above what my tiny little brain can accomodate. Tony

I've never done a 'work in progress' before, probably because I know I am so slow and it will be tedious for any one to follow for several years. If you enjoy the long haul though, strap yourself in. The overall detail and moulding is extremely good, sharp and well defined. I've been collecting Fujimi 1/20 F1 for several years but never actually looked that close until now. I think I own all the Ferraris, don't know why, I'm not overly fond of the marque. Also heard more recently what a bad fit they are, well, we'll see. Massively disappointed then to find the first piece out of the box is... badly warped: No evidence of any other parts suffering from the same affliction. I contacted Fujimi on more than one occasion through their website http://www.fujimimokei.com/ to ask if there was any possibility of a replacement part - happy to pay, but have not received any reply to date. So, taken matters in to my own hands - how hard can it be? Hacked (carefully) out the middle section of the undertray with a razor saw and cemented (Revell Contacta) a clean piece of plasticard of appropriate thickness and as carefully measured as possible: Slightly shaped on the outside edges More to come...

Hello Nick. Crikey, you make it sound so simple. Ok, I'll try and get those measurements to you - I do have a digital caliper. It would be preferable to have the pipes come from the 'collector' (if that's the right term) of each 4 end pipes. Bear with me. Seriously, are you ok to do this? Do you know what sort of cost we are talking about. Many thanks to both you and Malc for your interest and responses. I'm coming to N Wales tomorrow, visiting a friend in Conway. I used to live on Anglesey.

Oh I've been through any number of wires Malc. I have some copper armature for posable figures but it's even harder to bend. I've ordered some of the 2.5mm solder as per your suggestion. Yes, I checked out @nick, wonderful stuff he's producing.

Brilliant response as usual, Malc, you always make me feel better about my progress. Yes, exhausts and me... well, they just have to be right, don't they? I'm actually using 2.5mm soft aluminium wire from www.wires.co.uk, couldn't find solder wire that thick. It's quite maleable but also marks easily with pliers or any other tool so bending is not as easy as it seems. I have only this reference for the centre 'vee': Does @nick produce custom 3D parts?

Now, I'm expecting someone far brighter and intelligent than myself to instantly solve this problem as I'm fully aware there are several members of this community whose modelling skills are way above my own and are rather jolly good at this sort of thing. I've been working on this model for several years (as usual!) and was never satisfied that Tamiya merely truncated the exhaust system with (uneven) straight down pipes simply 'resting' on the top of the engine block. I've pored over scores of online reference images and only in the last few months realised that the pipes actually connect to the inside of the walls of the block. However, trying to work out the bend of each pipe, in more than one plane, is far beyond the capacity of my tiny addled 'one cell at a time' brain (mind you, it appears that the chaps at Tamiya, in those early days, also had a headache with this one, as far as I can see their pipe profiles are not exactly true to the real thing). There's got to be an easier way than how I'm tackling it. So, come on you wonderful engineers, give us a glimpse of those scale drawings you've already drawn up on this subject... If I ever manage to solve the puzzle myself I'll be sure to bequeath my working progress to this wonderful institution - damn, better start making some notes.

Thank you. I have the two other versions, Martini and the 'standard' red and I think they too were great looking vehicles.

You can't fool me! You've been secretly producing auto models for years . Excellent work. I'm relieved to see that you also use GX112, a clear coat I've been using for some time not being a huge fan with these new fangled 'super' gloss 2 pak finishes (mainly because I can't do it).

Thank you Keith.

A nice model to construct with the usual Tamiya good fit and reasonable amount of detail. It wasn't too difficult to enhance although reference material for this actual spec wasn't overwhelming. The body colour is Zero paints Jagermeister orange, 1057 finished with Tamiya TS13 clear, several coats polished with micro mesh cloths. The Tamiya decals are fairly good, although the 'Jagermeister' type and the logo were surprisingly thin, I replaced with an (I have to admit) unknown aftermarket set. Carbon fibre Twill weave decal is 1/24 from Scale Motorsport #1024 and #1124 Carbon Fibre, on certain elements of the ducting in the engine bay. Racing harness is my own artwork, inkjet printed on 80 gsm paper, with Scale Motorsport hardware. There's a good deal of additional 'wiring/plumbing' in the engine bay and interior, using a variety of wires from Top Studio, Replicas of Maryland, 'scratched' brake reservoirs made from Evergreen rod. Weathering/dimensional highlighting/panelling lines is predominantly MIG 'Dark Wash'. Heat exhaust staining is airbrushed Alclad 'Burnt Iron'.

Of course. I love the struggle.

Well, there's always a bit of dirt on the tyres, even just being wheeled through the pitlane. Thank you for your comment. Some might say my ridiculous attention to detail is a bit OCD. Have you posted any photos of your F189? It's a Modeler's resin/white metal and photoetch production, pretty rare, I think. Don't forget, photos can be deceptive...

Ah, ok. I wasn't quite sure what you meant. I am currently experimenting with printing my own decal sets after disappointment with various 'suppliers' with accuracy (incorrect fonts, sizes, colours etc). I'm not sure it will be commercially viable as they would certainly be 'one offs'.

Can you define "...decals have broken off..." in your original post? Are they just missing or destroyed?

Thanks for those encouraging words CrazyCrank. And a very big thank you for the reference photos, kind of you. My ignorance though is highlighted, I've been interested/loved cars and motorsport most of my 60 (odd) years but still cannot necessarily name the various components like you do, I only have a rough idea.

Another subject I've been working on for some time. Scratch work doesn't come easily to me and takes me forever. I'll pore over reference material for hours on end as an excuse not to perform any physical work. So cutting away a small element because it doesn't quite fit in with my sense of authenticity can be very dangerous! It is hugely satisfying though in the long term. 66 years to the day (1st May 1955) since this car won the event. Revell 'Classic' 1/24 Mercedes 300 SLR 1955 Mille Miglia worki in progress

I'm always impressed with scratch work and I'm with you on your ALL for the sake of authenticity. You work on this engine block is exemplary. I've been doing a similar subject, Moss's 300 SLR 1955 Mille Miglia (coincidentally exactly 66 years to the day of his victory) but no where near your standard.

Malc. The measurement I get with my digital callipers (absolutely accurate?) and visually with ruler is 95mm. That's rim to rim. I'm a bit surprised it's so bob on with no decimal point!

Thanks Malc. Your comments are very encouraging, it only takes a few words to push you on doesn't it? Can you clarify, you want the distance inside the tyre?

Thanks Codger. Oh don't worry, I've no intention of giving it up.