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Everything posted by Ruston

  1. There is a lot more choice for locomotive kits if you are prepared to look at etched brass or white metal cast models, with a corresponding increase in cost, time and effort to put them together. But you can almost find anything that ever existed. 00 gauge is a scale compromise at nominally 4mm/ft (1/76) but running on track scaled at 3.5mm/ft (1/87) so the rails and wheels are slightly too close together. Depends on how concerned you are with ultimate fidelity if that is an issue! HO gauge uses the same track as 00 but with everything correctly scaled at 3.5mm/ft. Most UK subjects are 00 gauge unfortunately and need modifying to sit on the correct 18.82mm width track.
  2. Thanks for the comments all. It wasn’t the quick build I thought it was going to be when I started but worth the effort and I learnt a lot in the process. I’m going to build something a little more straightforward and out the box for my next model though! Keith, I do agree on the background, it certainly looks like a location I’d not want to park the full size one. I managed to ruin my other backdrop by exposing half of it to the sun causing severe fading. I’ll have to find something else for future photo shoots.
  3. Thanks for kind words and encouragement all. Ready for Inspection post here
  4. This is my attempt at a 1/24 recreation of this car: https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/23945/lot/88/ It’s built from the 1960s Monogram kit with some modifications and additional details to replace the more crude parts of the kit and better represent the full size car. WIP thread here: Thanks for looking
  5. The last thing for me to do was to replace the ‘Porsche’ and ‘Carrera GTS’ lettering. I had previously removed the moulded in badges to help with the body prep, so I needed to find an alternative. I ordered some chrome metal self adhesive decals from Globaltoy on eBay. Unfortunately these were only available for the closer spaced Porsche script with the letters contacted with a line running through the bottom of each. I decided to carefully separate each of the letters with a scalpel blade, which came out ok. It looks better to the naked eye than this close up shot suggests. With each letter being a little over 1mm high at this scale, it’s about the best I could manage with my middle aged eyesight! I found a PE set for the Tamiya Carrera GT that included an etched ‘Carrera GT’ badge. This just left me needing an ‘S’ which I made from some 0.2mm lead wire that I shaped around a couple of pins and flattened with some pliers. The Carrera GTS badge has been painted gold and is now drying before being cut out and attached. That’ll be this one complete. Ready for Inspection post incoming as soon as I can get some decent pictures…
  6. Final few details and I’m almost done. The interior and glazing is in and I’m pleased the interior detail is still visible. The wiper is made from some PE parts from an old Fujimi detail up set. The arm is a cutdown Lamborghini Diablo arm and the blade is a 911 rear wiper.
  7. A little bit more progress to report. I’ve polished the body, then added number roundel decals. I’ve added the spot lights, with lenses tinted yellow to match the full size car. The side lights/indicators, tail lights and rear reflectors are scratch built from discs of plastic sheet and transparent sheet, punched out using a Historex Agents punch and die set. The remaining chrome parts have been stripped of the chrome plating by submerging in bleach and repainted using Molotow Chrome. As mentioned on another thread, I use AK Interactive Glass Coat Gauzy Agent to coat the painted chrome which quickly dries to leave a protective finish allowing the chrome parts to be safely handled. Being water based it doesn’t dull the chrome as much as solvent based clear coats and I think produces a nice scale look. I’m on the home stretch now with just the glazing, wiper and smaller details to add before final assembly.
  8. My latest eBay acquisition is this Fujimi 1/24 MR2. This early issue of the kit represents the NA version which is subtlety different to the later supercharged cars, having different air intakes for the radiator and engine bay vents, as well as a different layout for the rear lights/number plate region. It’s also got the three spoke wheels and sunroof, exactly the same as the full size one I briefly had in the early 2000s before it rusted away. I’ll be building this kit to represent my old car, in two tone white over metallic grey.
  9. Could be a good opportunity to try casting a smaller copy using the silicon mould shrinking technique? It worked for me on my 904 wheels!
  10. Hi Andy, my suggestion for Molotow Chrome is to clear coat it with AK Gauzy Agent, the stuff in the tub with the orange label intended for coating canopies, etc. Most clear coats dull the chrome effect significantly but I found either generously brushing on Gauzy Agent, or even dipping the part in the tub like you would a canopy, gave a very good finish with minimal dulling. The parts could be handled without leaving finger prints or marks, which can be a real problem with the Chrome as it takes ages to dry. Heres an example of some parts coated with the Gauzy Agent
  11. After a bit of a break, I’ve made some more progress with a scratch built grille for the rear deck. I used 10 x 20 thou plastic strip, built in a jig and using 15 thou strip as spacers. A few of the bars need tweaking to straighten them out but otherwise looks about right in place. I’ll be spraying it in Molotow chrome before final assembly.
  12. The diorama sets the car off a treat, it looks fantastic.
  13. Thanks! Have you made anymore progress on your 904 build?
  14. A bit more progress to report. The headlight recesses have been painted satin black and clear lenses fitted over some circles of mirror chrome tape. These lenses are replacement for the chrome lenses supplied in the kit. The replacements are spotlight lenses taken from another Monogram kit of the Porsche 924 Rally and are sized just right. I’ve then fitted the headlight covers. These needed some significant sanding and reshaping to fit flush. They were masked up to spray the black surrounds, which represent strips of tape on the full size car. I’ve also finished the interior tub. As supplied the tub is pretty basic. I had already removed the rear part that forms part of the rear deck so that I could add the firewall to the body moulding. The full size car is spartan inside but the tub would still benefit from some additional detail in the form of instruments, switches, ignition key hole, indicator/light stalks, lap belts, door cards and interior door pulls. I used some artistic license to add a Porsche badge to the dash and also remade the gear lever as the kit part was comically oversized.
  15. Did someone mention bezels? This is today’s output. I’ve made an instrument cluster. I do know I’ve got two Rev counters (and they are not the right way up!) but I made a mess of the speedometer decal and they are so small I figure it just needs something in there. The decals are from Modelworks and the bezels are self adhesive chrome plated PE parts from a set that came today from Globaltoy on eBay (together with my new Porsche badges). They are sold as keyholes in various scales but can be repurposed and I plan on using some of the other sized circles as switch surrounds on the dash and for the quick release catches on the bonnet and boot. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/chrome-metal-decals-Keyhole-silver-2293-/172917178395?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 The other job for today has been tackling the windscreen surround. I painted the chrome trim with Molotow chrome (by brush). The outer part of the rubber seal is done with black lining decals because that was the only way I could get a presentable finish. I used black lining from Fox’s Transfers which include three different corner radii (or is it radiuses???). https://www.fox-transfers.co.uk/general-alphabets-linings/corners-in-black-33483 The smaller radius was good for the top corners, the lower corners were done with the largest radius but still needed some persuasion with some Microsol/set to follow the curve. I’ll paint on the inner part of the rubber seal by brush once the chrome is fully dry.
  16. Hi Marco, the steel wheels were also used on early 911s. The Fuchs alloy was introduced with the 911S in 1966, I believe. The steel wheels with hub caps do give the 911 a certain elegance I think and makes a nice change from the ubiquitous Fuchs.
  17. I had the same reservations about the kit Andy. It was finding the photos of two completed models on this link that convinced me that the kit had potential http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/660-24-hour-build-during-the-race-2-porsche-904s/
  18. Thanks Andy I wrapped an over length piece of rod around a suitably sized aluminium tube, tapped it in place and then dunked it in some hot water (just off the boil) which set the shape. I then trimmed off the two ends with a scalpel blade, cutting both ends together so the ends met and could be glued together. Removing the moulded wiper blade was a bit daunting but actually worked out fine. I took my time and was careful not to use sanders that were too coarse to avoid deep scratches. With the naked eye, I can just make out a faint imperfection in the moulding where the wiper was, but as the new wiper will sit over the top, it will be mostly hidden.
  19. Looks great and the colour really suits the car
  20. That looks stunning and is an inspirational build.
  21. Thanks for the comments all. Based on the consensus of opinion, I’ll save the 2k to try on a more modern vehicle! A little more progress today. I’ve replaced the steering wheel rim with one I’ve made myself from some 30 thou plastic rod. The kit rim was both too large in diameter and too thick. I’ve also sanded off the moulded in windscreen wiper, separated the front screen and polished out the sanding marks. I’ll be adding a wiper arm from some leftover bits of other kits. I’ll also be cutting out new side and rear windows from transparent plastic sheet. This was meant to be a quick and easy build, I have just worked out that of the 30 odd parts in the kit, there are only two that I won’t be modifying or replacing (the axles).
  22. Progress has been made on the body that I have been working on in parallel to the wheels, but failed to take many photos until the paint was on, doh! The intakes over the rear wheels were opened up, finger recesses added behind the doors, rear deck remodelled and plastic sheet firewall added with rear window cut out. The grill on the rear deck has been cut out, to be replaced by a scratch built grille later. I also removed the bars on the side window openings, to be replaced with something finer when I add the glazing. The body was primed in Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer. White stripe was sprayed with Mr Color GX1 and then masked before spraying Zero paints Porsche Albert Blue (custom mixed). Pinstriping added with Xtradecal red lining decals, put on over white decals to ensure the red stands on on the dark blue. I ended up taking off the 'Porsche' and 'Carrera GTS' badges that were moulded in to the body, mainly because they were causing issues trying to avoid them whilst sanding and prepping for paint. I've ordered Porsche chrome badges from Globaltoy on eBay and will have to search through various decals sheets for kits in my stash to see if I have a suitable Carrera decal that I can rob. Photo of the body whilst applying the decals and before clear coating: The clear coat was done with Mr Super Clear UV Cut Gloss. Some orange peel evident, that will need flatting and polishing. I really need to summon up the courage to try the Gravity 2k clear I have but not yet tried, as it should give a better finish.
  23. Thanks Chris It’s a technique that has some useful potential applications. I can see it being used to create cast copies of not just wheels but also things like engines and other detailed parts in different scales. Resizing from 1/24 to 1/25 (and vice versa) for instance would be relatively straight forward but 1/18 to 1/24 or 1/24 to 1/32 could also be possible, although distortion will start to become an issue with larger changes in scale.
  24. I've made some progress with replacement wheels. Here's the kit wheel next to one taken from the Fujimi 356B/C 2000GS that I have in my stash, showing the difference in 1960s and 1980s moulding quality and detail! The easiest thing to do would be to just use the Fujimi wheels on the 904 but that gives me two problems. The first being I want to keep the Fujimi wheels for when I build the 356 (although the 356 kit does come with two sets of wheels representing the drum and disk braked fitment respectively, I don't want to commit now to having to build the 356 with drum brakes). The second issue is the Fujimi wheels don't fit the 904 kit's tyres, the wheels being a little larger in diameter. The Monogram 904 tyres are moulded from a relatively hard vinyl which won't comfortably stretch around the Fujimi wheels. I decided to try and solve these problems by creating my own resin copies of the Fujimi wheels, which I would resize to the slightly smaller diameter needed to fit the 904 kit tyres using the 'mineral spirit silicon mould shrinking technique' I had picked up from a video on YouTube (link at the bottom of this post, I make no excuse for the presentation style but the video is actually quite informative!). The technique works by adding mineral spirit (or white spirt to Brits) to the wet silicon when making the mould. After the silicon has set, the white spirit evaporates over a period of days which causes the silicon to shrink, so reducing the size of the mould. As a side note, white spirt can also be used to grow a silicon mould. This is done by submerging the cured silicon mould in white spirt, the silicon then absorbs the white spirit and grows in size. It is possible to shrink or grow the silicon moulds by around 50% but I guess the bigger the % change, the more distortion may be introduced. I only needed to reduce the wheel diameter by around 1mm (around 5%) to make it the size needed to fit the tyres, so I wasn't too worried about distortion. Here are the various stages in the process. At the top is the Fujimi wheel and my single sided mould taken from it - no white spirit at this stage so the mould is the same size as the master. In the middle I have added some plastic hexagons to represent the wheel nuts and taken another mould, again no white spirt. The bottom row shows the final mould where I added about 10% white spirit (by volume) to the wet silicon resulting in a mould that (luckily) dried out after a couple of days to the smaller diameter I needed. Here you can see a comparison of the original Fujimi wheel and the resulting smaller cast copy. Finally, four cast wheels that fit the Monogram tyres snugly and, after painting and shading, will look a whole load better than what came with the kit. I've started drilling out the centre of the two rear wheels to add in a representation of the hub nut.
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